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262 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith.
.%dim, or ?? Miscellaneous Papers relating tc
Scottish Affairs ?? (1535-1781)~ we find some
entries that prove the game was still a fashionable
one :-
1672. 15 S. a.
Jan. 13. Lost at golf with Pitaro and
,, Lost at golf with Lyon and
Comissar Munro ............ o 13 o
.................. Harry Hay 1 4 0
Feb. 14. Spent at Leithe at golf ........ 2 o o
,, 26. Spent at Leithe at golf ......... I g o
March3. For three golf balls ............... o 15 o
In the year I 724 the Hon. Alexander Elphinstone
(of whom more anon), elder brother of the unfortunate
Lord Balmerino, engaged on Leith Links
in what the prints of that time term ?a solemn
match at golf? with another personage, who is better
known in history-the famous Captain John
Porteous of the City Guard-for a twenty guineas?
stake.
On this occasion the reputation of the players
(or skill excited great interest, and the match was
attended by James, Duke of Hamilton, George
Earl of Morton, and a vast crowd of spectators.
Elphinstone proved the winner.
President Forbes was so enthusiastic a golfer that
he frequently played on the Links of Leith when
they were .covered with snow, Thus Thomas
Mathieson, minister of Brechin, in his quaint poem,
?The Goff,? first published in 1743, says :-
? - great Fork, patron of the just,
The dread of villains, and the good man?s trust,
When spent in toils in saving human kind,
His body recreates and unbends his mind.?
Elsewhere he refers thus to these Links :-
? North from Edina eight furlongs or more,
Lies the famed field on Fortha?s sounding shore.
Here Caledonian chiefs for health resort-
Confirm their sinews in the manly sport.?
When the silver club was given by the magistrates
and Town Council of Edinburgh, in 1744, to
be played for annually on the Links of Leith, in
the April of the following year, just before the
rising in the Highlands, the Lord President Forbes
was one of the competitors, together with Hew
Dalrymple, Lord Hailes, and other men then
eminent in the city.
Smollett, in his ?? Humphrey Clinker,? after detailing
the mode in which the game is played,
says :--?Of this diversion the Scots are so fond
that, when the weather will permit, you may see a
multitude of all ranks, from the senator of justice
to the lowest tradesmen, mingled together in their
shirts, and following the balls with the utmost
eagerness. Among others, I was shown one particular
set of golfers, the youngest of whom was
turned of four-score. They were all gentlemen of
independent fortunes, who had amused themselves
with this pastime for the best part of a century
without ever having felt the least alarm from sickness
or disgust, and they never went to bed without
having each the best part of a gallon of claret in
his belly ! Such uninterrupted exercise, co-operating
with the keen air f?om the sea, must, without doubt,
keep the appetite always on edge, and steel the
constitution against all the common attacks of
distemper.?
The Golf House was built towards the close of
the last century, near the foot of the Easter Road,
and prior to its erection the golfers frequented a
tavern on the west side of the Kirkgate, near the
foot of Leith Walk, where, says the Rev. Parker
Lawson, they usually closed the day with copious
libations of claret, in silver or pewter tankards.
The Links of Leith were often the scene of
meetings of a very different nature than the merry
pursuit of golf-duels and executions, etc.
On the 25th of July, 1559, when the Queen
Regent took possession of Edinburgh, on being
assured of the friendship of Lord Erskine, then
governor of the castle, the Lords of the Congregation
and their adherents drew up their terms of
accommodation at their muster-place on the Links,
where the mounds of the breaching batteries were
thrown up in the following year; and during the
Cromwellian usurpation, the people of Leith, excluded
from their churches, had to meet there in
the open air for Divine worship.
Among the muItitude of unminded petitions sent
to the representative of the Republiqn Govemment
in Leith, was one in 1655, craving that the
port, or gate, nearest the Links (supposed to have
been somewhere near the present Links Lane)
might be left open ? on Sabbath from seven o?clock
in the morning till two o?clock in the afternoon, for
outgoing of the people to sermon.?
The first years of the next century saw less
reputable assemblages on the same ground.
The spirit of cock-fighting had been recently
introduced into Scotland from the sister kingdom,
and the year 1702 saw a cock-pit in full operation
on Leith Links, when the charges of admission
were Iod. for the front row, 7d. for the second, and
4d. for the third (Amot) ; and the passion for cockfighting
became so general among all ranks of
the people, and was carried to such a cruel extent,
that the magistrates of Edinburgh forbade its practice
on the streets, in consequence of the tumults
it excited. This was on the 16th February, 1704,
according to the Csuncil Register.
Yet in the following year Mr. William Machrie, ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith. .%dim, or ?? Miscellaneous Papers relating tc Scottish Affairs ?? (1535-1781)~ ...

Book 6  p. 262
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sacres will, in a short space, run a great length. I desire
you may disperse this news abroad, if it be not in town
before your receipt of this ; for that country, and the North
of England, without speedy relief, is jn great danger of
depopulation. And the Duke of Gordon h$th in his possession
the Castle of Edinburgh, whereby he can at pleasure
level that city with the ground. At twelve of the clock yesternight
our Governor, LieutXollonel Billingsley, dispatched
an Express to the Lords Danby and Lumley for drawing their
forces to this town. I received yours to-day, which being
Sabbath-day, I beg your pardon for brevity.
? I was told they see the fires and burnings of those Rebels
at Edinburgh ; this is the beginning of the discovery of the
Popish intrigue. God defend England from the French, and
his Highness the Prince of Orange from the bloody Popish
attempts I
?London : Published by J- Wells, St. Paul?s Alley, St.
Paul?s Churchyard, ~688.?
Tidings of William?s landing filled the Scottish
Presbyterians with the wildest joy, and the magis-
THUMBIKIN.
( F m the Musewnr ofthe Society of Antiguarirs of Scutland.)
trates of Edinburgh, who but two years before
had been extravagant in their protestations to
James VII., were among the first to welcome the
invader; and the city filled fast with bands of
jubilant revolutionists, rendering it unsafe for all of
cavalier tenets to be within the walls. On the 11th
of April, 1688, William and Mxry were proclaimed
at the cross king and queen of Scotland, after an
illegally constituted Convention of the Estates,
which was attended by only thirty representatives,
declared that King James had forfeited all title to
the crown, thus making a vacancy. A great and
sudden change now came over the realm. ? Men,?
says Dr. Chambers, ?who had been lately in
danger of their lives for consciencl sake, or
starving in foreign lands, were now at the head
of affairs! The Earl of Melville, Secretary of
State ; Crawford, President of Parliament ; Argyle,
restored to title and lands, and a Privy Councillor;
Dalrymple of Stair, Hume of Marchmont,
Stewart of Goodtrees, and many other exiles,
came back from Holland, to resume prominent
positions in the public service at home; while
the instruments of the late unhappy Government
were either captives under suspicion, or living
terror-struck at their country houses. Common
people, who had been skulking in mosses from
Claverhouse?s dragoons, were now marshalled into
Y regiment, and planted as a watch on the Perth
md Forfar gentry. There were new figures in the
Privy Council, and none of them ecclesiastical.
There was a wholly new set of senators on the
bench of the Court of Session. It looked like a
sudden shift of scenes in a pantomime rather than
a series of ordinary occurrences.? For three days
and nights Edinburgh was a wild scene of pillage
and rapine. The palace was assailed, the chapel
royal sacked ; and the Duke of Gordon, on finding
that the rabble, drunk and maddened by wine and
spirits found in the cellars of cavalier families who
had fled, were .wantonly firing on his sentinels,
drew up the drawbridge, to cut off all communication
with the city; but finding that his soldiers
were divided in their religious and political
opinions, and that a revolt was impending, he
called a council of officers to frustrate the attempt ;
and the Lieutenant-Governor, Colonel John Winram,
of Liberton and the Inch House, Colonel of
the Scots Foot Guards in 1683, undertook to
watch the men, forty-four of whom it was deemed
necessary to strip of their uniforms and expel from
the fortress. In their place came thirty Highlanders,
onqthe 11th of November, and 300n after
forty-five more, under Gordon of Midstrath.
By the Privy Council the Duke was requested,
as a Roman Catholic, to surrender his command
to the next senior Protestant officer; but he declined,
saying, ?I am bound only to obey King
James VII.?
A few of the Life Guards and Greys, who had
quitted the Scottish army on its revolt, now reached
Edinburgh under the gallant Viscount Dundee,
and their presence served to support the spirits of
the Royalists, but the friends of the Revolution
brought in several companies of infantry, who were
concealed in the suburbs, and 6,000 Cameronians
marched in from the west, under standards inscribed,
?O For Reformation according to the Word
of God,? below an open Bible. These men
nobly rejected all remuneration, saying, with one
voice, ?We have come to serve our country.?
Their presence led to other conspiracies in the
garrisan, and the Duke of Gordon had rather a
harassing time of it.
The friends of William of Orange having formed
a plan for? the assassination of Dundee and Sir
George Mackenzie of Rosehahgh, compelled them ... will, in a short space, run a great length. I desire you may disperse this news abroad, if it be not in ...

Book 1  p. 62
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The Royal Excharge.] THE ROYAL EXCHANGE. 183 -
CHAPTER XX.
THE ROYAL EXCHANGE-THE TRON CHURCH-THE GREAT FIRE OF NOVEMBER, 1824.
The Royal Exchange-Laying the Foundation Stonc-Ddption of the Exchange-The Mysterious Statue-The Council Cbarnber-hventiom
of Royal Burghs : Constitution thereof, and Powers-Writen? Court-The ? Star and Garter? Tavern-Sir Walter Scott?s Account
of the Scene at Cleriheugh?s-Lawyers? High Jinks-The Tron Church-Histor] of the Old Church-Tht Gnat Fire of rSa~-lnciden~s
of the Conflagration-The Ruins Undermined-Blown up by Captain Head of the Engineers,
Ira 1753 we discover the first symptoms of vitality
in Edinburgh after the Union, when the pitiful
sum of A1,500 was subscribed by the convention
of royal burghs, for the purpose of ? beautifying
the city,? and the projected Royal Exchange was
fairly taken in hand.
If wealth had not increased much, the population
had, and by the middle of the eighteenth
century the citizens had begun to find the inconvenience
they laboured under by being confined
within the old Flodden wall, and that the city was
still destitute of such public buildings as were
necessary for the accommodation of those societies
which were formed, or forming, in all other capitals,
to direct the business of the nation, and provide
for the general welfare ; and so men of tas?te, rank,
and opulence, began to bestir themselves in Edinburgh
at last.
Many ancient alleys and closes, whose names
are well-nigh forgotten now, were demolished on
the north side of the Righ Street, to procure a
site for the new Royal Exchange. Some of these
had already become ruinous, and must have been
of vast antiquity. Many beautifully-sculptured
stones belonging to houses there were built into
the curious tower, erected by Mr. Walter Ross at
the Dean, and are now in a similar tower at Portobello,
Others were scattered about the garden
grounds at the foot of the Castle rock, and still
show the important character of some of the
edifices demolished. Among them there was a
lintel, discovered when clearing out the bed 01
the North Loch, with the initials IS. (and the
date 1658), supposed to be those of Jaines tenth
Lord Somerville, who, after serving long in the
Venetian army, died at a great age in 1677.
On the 13th of September, 1753, the first stone
of the new Exchange was laid by George Drummond,
then Grand Master of the Scottish Masons,
whose memory as a patriotic magistrate is still remembered
with respect in Edinburgh. A triumphal
arch, a gallery for the magistrates, and covered
stands for the spectators, enclosed the arena.
?The procession was very grand and regular,?
says the Gentleman?s Magazine for that year.
each lodge of maSons, of which there were
thirteen, walked in procession by themselves, all
uncovered, amounting to 672, most of whom were
operative masons.? The military paid proper
honours to the company on this occasion, and escorted
the procession in a suitable manner. The
Grand Master and the present substitute were
preceded by the Lord Provost, magistrates, and
council, in their robes, with the city sword, mace,
&c., carried before them, accompanied by the
directors of the scheme.
All day the foundation-stone lay open, that the
people might see it, with the Latin inscription on
the plate, which runs thus in English :-
? GEORGE DKUMMOND,
Of the Society of Freemasons in Scotland Grand Master,
Thrice Provost of the City of Edinburgh,
Three hundred Brother Masons attending,
In presence of many persons of distinction,
The Magistrates and Citizens of Edinburgh,
And of every rank of people an innumerable multitude,
And all Applaudipg ;
For convenience of the inhabitants of Edinburgh,
And the public ornament,
Laid this stone,
Wdliam Alexander being Provost,
On the 13th September, 1753. of the Era of Masonry 5753,
And of the reign of George II., King of Great Britain,
the 27th yea.?
In the stone were deposited two medals, one
bearing the profile and name of the Grand Master,
the other having the masonic arms, with the collar
of St. Andrew, and the legend, ? In the Lord is
all our trust.?
Though the stone was thus laid in 1753, the
work was not fairly begun till the following year,
nor was it finished till 1761, at the expense of
A31,5oo, including the price of the area on which
it is built ; but it never answered the purpose for
which it was intended-its paved quadrangle and
handsome Palladian arcades were never used by
the mercantile class, who persisted in meeting, as
of old, at the Cross, or where it stood.
Save that its front and western arcades have
been converted into shops, it remains unchanged
since it was thus described by Arnot, and the back I
view of it, which faces the New Town, catches the
eye at once, by its vast bulk and stupendous height,
IOO feet, all of polished ashlar, now blackened with -
the smoke of years :--.?The Exchange is a large
and elegant building, with a court in the -centre.
, ... Royal Excharge.] THE ROYAL EXCHANGE. 183 - CHAPTER XX. THE ROYAL EXCHANGE-THE TRON CHURCH-THE GREAT FIRE OF ...

Book 1  p. 183
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270 OLD AND *NEW EDINBURGH. [Brown Square.
Till about 1780 the inhabitants of these districts
formed a distinct class of themselves, and had their
own places of amusement, independent of all the
rest of the city. Nor was it until the New Town
was rather far advanced that the sowfh side lost its
attractions; and we are told that, singular as it
may appear, there was one instance, if not more, of
a gentleman living and dying in this southern district
without having once visited, or even seen, the
New Town, although at the time of his death it
had extended westward to Castle Street. (Scott?s ?? Provincial Antiquities.?)
In the notes to ? Redgauntlet,? the same author
tells us, that in its time Brown Square was hailed
?as an extremely elegant improvement ? on Edmburgh
residences, even witli its meagre plot of
grass and shabby iron railings. It is here he
places the house of Saunders Fairford, where Man
is described as first beholding the mysterious Lady
GreenmanfZe, and as being so bewildered with her
appearance, that he stood as if he had been
senseless. ? The door was opened, out she went,
walked along the pavement, turned down the
close (at the north-east end of the square leading
into the Cowgate), and put the sun, I believe,
into her pocket when she disappeared, so suddenly
did dulness and darkness sink down on the
square when she was no longer visible.?
To show how much this new locality was thought
of, we will here quote a letter in the Edinburgh
Adverfiser of 6th March, 1764 (Vol. I.) :-
?Su,-\Vith pleasure I have observed of late
the improvements we are making in this metropolis,
and there is nothing which pleases me yore than
the taste for elegant buildings, than which nothing
can be a greater ornament to a city, or give a
stranger a greater impression of the improvement
of the inhabitants in polite and liberal arts.
? That very elegant square, called Brown Square,
which, in my opinion, is a very great beauty to the
town, is now almost finished, and last day the
green pasture was railed in. Now, I think, to
complete the whole, an elegant statue in the
middle would be well worth the expense; and I
dare say the gentlemen who possess houses there
would not grudge a small sum to have that part
adorned with an equestrian statue of his present
Majesty George the Thud, and which I should think,
would be contributed to by public subscriptions,
set a-foot for that purpose. Whie we are thus
making such improvements, I am surprised nobody
has ever mentioned an improvement on our
College [the old one was then extant] which, as it
now is, gives strangers but an unfavourable idea of
our University, which, however, is at present so
flourishing. . . . , To have a handsome building
for that purpose is surely the desire of every good
citizen. This could be easily accomplished by
various means. Suppose a lottery should be proposed,
every student I dare say would take a
ticket, and I would venture to ensure the success
of it.?
But George 111. was fated not to have a statue
either in Brown Square or Great King Street, according
to a suggestion some sixty years afterwards
; yet as a proof that the square was deemed
alike fashionable and elegant, we may enumerate
some of those who resided there. . Among them
were the Dowager Lady Elphinstone (daughter of
John sixth Earl of Wigton) who had a house here
in 1784; Henry Pundas (afterwards Viscount
Melville), when a member of the Faculty of Advocates;
Sir Islay Campbell, Bart., of Succoth, in the
days when it was the custom of the senators to
walk to court in the morning, with nicely powdered
wigs, and a small cocked hat in the hand-a practice
retained nearly to the last by Lord Glenlee:
he was afterwards Lord President. He bought
Lord Melville?s house in Brown Square, and after
a time removed to York Place.
His successor in the same residence, No. 15,-
was John Anstruther of that ilk, Advocate, with
whom resided the family of Charles Earl of
Traquair, whose mother was a daughter of Sir
Philip Anstruther of Anstrutherfield. Other residents
were Lord Henderland and the future Lord
President Blair of Avontoun, both when at the bar,
and William Craig, afterwards a Lord of Justiciary
in 1792; Sir John Forbes-Drummond, when a
captain of the Royal Navy, and before he became
Baronet of Hawthornden ; Henry Mackenzie, the
ubiquitous ? Man of Feeling ; ? Lord Woodhouselee,
and the Lord President Miller, whose residence
was the large house (No. 17) with the painted front,
on the north side, the interior of which, with its
frescoes and panelings, is now one of the finest
specimens remaining of a fashionable Edinburgh
mansion of the eighteenth century; and therein
lived and died his son Lord Glenlee, who (uZtimus
Scoforum 2) resisted the attraction of three successive
New Towns, to which all his brethren had
long before fled.
He retained, until within a few years of his death,
the practice referred to, of walking daily to Court,
hat in hand, with a powdered wig, through Brown
Square, down Crombie?s Close, across the Cowgate,
xnd up the Back Stairs to the Parliament Houser
ittended by his valet, and always scrupulously
kessed in black. In 1838, when nearly eighty
years of age, this grand lord of the old school, ... OLD AND *NEW EDINBURGH. [Brown Square. Till about 1780 the inhabitants of these districts formed a distinct ...

Book 4  p. 270
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468 INDEX.
Nairn, S i Robert, 193
Katharine, 193
Nairn’s Close, 146, 148
Namur, Count of, 7
Napier of Xerchiston, 208, 348
Tomb of, 393, 428
Lord, 243
Francis Lord, 308
Sir Archibald, 372
of Wrychtishousis. See Il“rychlielrm&
Negro eervants, 290
Nether Bow, 17, 36, 55, 68, 82, 83, 87, 88, 91, 95
Port, 27, 44, 50, 71,110,111,114, 277
Last Speech and Confession of the,
449
New Assembly Close, 248
College, 118, 135
Street, Canongate, 284
Town Antiquities of, 369-376
The Plan of, 371
St James’s Chapel, 368
Newhaven, 49,368
Nicol, Willie, 181
Nicoleon, Lady, 346
Street, 346
Niddry’s Wynd, 55, 89,177,198
Nimmo, Mise, 346
Nisbet of Dirleton, 140, 299
of Dean, 157. See Dean
Alexander, 374
Norman Architecture, 12,128, 129, 379, 405
Norrie, Old, 138, 149, 168, 312
Norrie’s Workshops, 312
Norris of Speke Hall, The Family of, 406
North Bridge, 355
.
Loch, 60, 109, 162, 180, 251, 280, 376, 454,
455
Norwell, Katharine, Widow of Bassendyne the
Printer, 396
Nose Pinching, the Punishment of, 456
Notre Dame, Cathedral of, 60
Nottingham Castle, 9
Ogilvie, S i Alexander, 239
Lady, 123
Oikis House, William, 277
Old Bank, 173
Close, 172,440
Calton BuryingOround, 353
Fishmarket Close, 242
Fleshmarket Close, Canongate, 278
High School Close, Canongate, 279
Stamp Office Close, 242, 243
Kirk, or Old Church, 385,391
Style, 198. See Stinking Style
Oliver, Lord, 283
Oliver’s Land, 282
Orange, Prince of, 105
Orchardfield, 136
Orkney, St Clair, Earl of, 266
Adam Bothwell, Bishop of, 101, 191, 226,280,
Monument of, 409
292,373,405
Ormiston, Laird of, 78
Orphan’s Hospital, 114, 288
Park, 288
Otterburn, Sir Adam, Provost, 50
Palfrey’s Inn, Cowgate, 330
Palmer’s Land, 347
Panmure, Earl of, 301
House, 301
Close, 301
Paoli, General, 160
Paradin’s Emblems, 150
Parliament Close, 108,118, 162,170, 203
House, 89, 97, 361
Stairs, 193,212,325, 330
Riding of, 204
Square, Leith, 361
Paterson, John, 301
Nicol, 302
Bishop, 305
Paterson’s Land, Canongate, 301
Paton, George, the Antiquary, 163, 181,247
Patrick, Alexander, 160
Paulitius, Dr Joanues, 281
Paul‘s Work, 352
Paunch Market, Leith, 363
Peebles Wynd, 246
Pennycuik, Alexander, 20
Perjurers, Boring the Tongues of, 455
Perth, Earl of, 105, 296
Pest. See Plague
Philiphaugh, Lord, 231
Physic Gardens, 117
Physicians’ Hall, Oeorge Street, 376
Picardy, Village of, 375
Piera Leland, 6
Pillans, Professor, 168
Pilrig, 66
Pinkie, Battle of, 52, 406
Pipe’s Close, 143
Piscina, Ancient, 146
Pitcairn, Dr Archibald, 285, 302
Pius II., Pope, 15
Plague, The, 165, 182,205,311
Plainstanes Close, 344
Plantagenet, Richard, 25
Playfair, Profeessor, 143
Playhouse Close, 287
Plays, 44,103
Pleasance, The, 83, 312
Pole, Cardinal, 403
Pope, Burning the, 437
Porteous, Captain, 109,194-196,440
Mob, 211, 433
Portobello Tower, 451
Preston, John, 268
438
Pillory, 74, 454
Port, 312
Sir Michael, 268
of Braigmillar, 381
of Oortoun, 382
Sir Simon, Provost, 79, 245, 396 ... INDEX. Nairn, S i Robert, 193 Katharine, 193 Nairn’s Close, 146, 148 Namur, Count of, 7 Napier of ...

Book 10  p. 507
(Score 0.25)

St. Mary?s Wynd.1 THE ? WHITE HORSE? INN. 299
long dwelt the celebrated artistic decorator of
many of the best old houses in Edinburgh, John
Norrie, whose workshop adjoined the coach-house
of Lord Milton, and both of which were converted
into stables for Boyd?s famous old ?White Horse ?
Inn, one of the great hostelries of Edinburgh, in
the days when ?? hotels? were unknown, and when
guests, except those whose business was of a very
temporary nature, usually repaired to lodging-houses,
of which the most famous in 1754 was Mrs. Thomson?s
at the Cross, who, as per advertisement, served
people who had not their own silver plate, tea
china, table china, and tea linen, with all these
luxuries, together with wines and spirits.
When the famous patriot chief, Pasquale de
Paoli, had been driven into exile by the French
invaders of Corsica, among other places in his
wanderings he came to Edinburgh in the autumn
of 177 I, accompanied by the Polish Ambassador,
Count Burzyuski; and on the 3rd of September
they arrived at Peter Ramsay?s ? White Horse ?I
Inn, in St. Mary?s Wynd, from whence he was
immediately taken home by Boswell to his house
in James?s Court, while the Count became the
guest of his neighbour, Dr. John Gregory, ?to
whom they brought a letter from the ingenious
Mrs. Montague.? Boswell introduced Paoli to
Lord Kames, Dr. Robertson, David Hume, and
others, who though greatly his seniors, admitted
him into their circle, and he showed him over
the Castle, Holyrood, Duddingston, and other
places. Ramsay?s inn was chiefly famous for its
stables, and in that establishment he realised a large
fortune.
In I 776 he advertised that, exclusive of some part
of his premises recently offered for sale, he possessed
? a good house for entertainment, good stables for
above one hundred horses, and sheds for above
twenty carriages.? He retired from business in
St. Mary?s Wynd in 1790, with above LIO,OOO,
according to one account, and his death is thus
recorded in the ?Scottish Register.? ?Jan. I,
1794. At his son?s house of Gogar, Co. Edinburgh,
Peter Ramsay, Esq., formerly an eminent
innkeeper at the Cowgate Port, in which station he
acquired upwards of ~ 3 0 , 0 0 0 . He has left one
son, William Ramsay, jun., Esq., banker in Edinburgh,
and one daughter, the widow of Captain
Mansfield, of the South Fencible Regiment, who
lost his life at Leith in 1779, when attempting to
quell a mutiny.?
Eoyd?s Close, or the White Horse Close, as it
was often called, opened into Boyd?s Entry from
St. Mary?s Wynd. The inn there was more modern,
and was larger than Ramsay?s, but had, like his,
the principal rooms above the stables ; and at this
White Horse? it was that Dr. Johnson, on arriving
at Edinburgh on the 17th of August, 1773,
put up, and from whence he sent his curt note to
Boswel1:-
?( Saturday night :-<? Mr. Johnson sends his
compliments to Mr. Boswell, being just arrived at
Boyd?s.?
And here it was, as we have related, that Boswell
found him storming at the waiter, when he and
William Scott, afterwards Lord Stowell, repaired
thither, and received an instalment of that domineering
manner which excited the aristocratic
contempt that old Lord Auchinleck so freely
expressed for ?? the dominie the auld English
dominie, that keepit a schule and ca?ad it an
acaademy.?
In Boyd?s ?? White Horse Inn ? one particularly
large room was the scene of many a marriage between
runaway English couples ; and on a window,
written with a diamond, were long to be seen the
remarkable names of
Jeremiah and Sarah Bmtham, I 768.
? James Eoyd, the keeper of this inn, was addicted
to horse racing, and his victories on the
turf, or rather on Leith sands, are frequently chronicled
in journals of that day. It is said that he
was one time on the brink of ruin, when he was
saved by a lucky run with a white horse, which
in gratitude he kept idle all the rest of its days,
besides setting up its portrait as his sign. He
eventually retired from this ? dirty and dismal? inn
with a fortune of several thousand pounds ; and, as
a curious note upon the impression which its
slovenliness conveyed to Dr. Johnson, it may be
stated as a fact, well authenticated, that, at the
time of his giving up the house he possessed
napery to the value of five hundred pounds.?
St. Mary?s Wynd was, in 1869, the first scene of
the operations of the trustees who acted under the
Improvement Act of 1867, when they commenced
to pull down the buildings between it and Gullan?s
Close, in the Canongate. By this time it had
become one of the most wretched slums in the
city, a narrow and stifling alley, to navigate the
intricacies of which required some courage. I t
was scarcely possible to avoid coming in contact
with cast-off apparel of all kinds, or stumbling
against piles of old boots, pots, pans, and furniture.
Under designs furnished for the upper part by the
late David Cousin, who for many years occupied
an important official post in connection with the
municipality, and for the lower part by Mr. Lessels,
another architect, the wynd has now become a ... Mary?s Wynd.1 THE ? WHITE HORSE? INN. 299 long dwelt the celebrated artistic decorator of many of the best ...

Book 2  p. 299
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The Old High School.] RECTORS AND TEACHERS, 291
, in use to teach in those mornings and forenoons.
And considering that the ordinary Latin rudiments
in use to be taught children at their beginning to
the Latin tongue is difficult and hard for beginners,
and that Wedderburn?s Rudiments are more plain
and easy, the Council ordain the said masters in
time coming, to teach and begin their scholars with
Wedderburn?s Rudiments in place of the Latin
Rudiments in use as taught formerly. Ro. CHIESLIE,
Provost.??
David Wedderburn, whose work is thus referred
to, was born about 1570, and was the accomplished
author of many learned works, and died, it is supposed,
about 1644, soon after the publication of
his ?? Centuria Tertia.?
In 1699 A40 Scots was voted by the magistrates
to procure books as a reward for the best scholars,
and when the century closed the institution was in
a most creditable condition, and they-as patrons
-declared that ?? not a few persons that are now
eminent for piety and learning, both in Church and
State, had been educated there.?
In the year I 7 I 6 there was an outbreak among
the scholars for some reason now unknown ; but
they seem to have conducted themselves in an outrageous
manner, demolishing every pane of glass
in the school, and also of Lady Yester?s church,
levelling to the earth even the solid stone wall
which enclosed the school-yard. About this time
the janitor of the institution was David Malloch, a
man distinguished in after life as author of the
beautiful ballad of ? William and Margaret,? a poet
and miscellaneous writer, and under-secretary to the
Prince of Wales in 1733; to please the English
ear, he changed his name to Mallet, and became
an avowed infidel, and a venal author of the worst
description. Dr. Steven refers to his receipt as
being extant, dated 2nd February, 1718, ?for
sixteen shillings and eight pence sterling, being his
full salary for the preceding half-year. That was
the exact period he held the office.?
In 1736 we again hear of the BZeis-siher, cca
profitable relic of popery, which it seemed difficult
to relinquish.? Heartburnings had arisen because
it had become doubtful in what way the Candlemas
offerings should be apportioned between the rector
and masters; thus, on the 28th January in that
year, the Council resolved that the rector himself,
and no other, shall collect, not only his own quarterly
fees, but also the fee of one shilling from
each scholar in the other classes. The Council
also transferred the right from the master of the
third, to the mzster of the first elementary class,
to demand a shilling quarterly from each pupil in
the rector?s class; and declared that the rector
and four masters should favourably receive from
the scholars themselves whatever benevolence or
Candlemas offerings might be presented.?
Thomas Ruddiman, the eminent grammarian and
scholar, who was born at Boyndie in 1674 and
who in 1724 began to vary his great literary
undertakings by printing the ancient Cdedonian
Mercqv, about I 737 established-together with
the rector, the masters, and thirty-one other persons-
a species of provident association for their
own benefit and that of their widows and children,
and adopting as the title of the society, ?The
Company of the Professors and Teachers of the
liberal arts and sciences, or any branch or part
thereof, in the City of Edinburgh and dependencies
thereof.?
The co-partners were all taxed equally; but
owing to inequalities in the yearly contributions, a
dissolution nearly took place after an existence of
fifty years; but the association rallied, and stcl
exists in a flourishing condition.
One of the most popular masters in the early
part of the eighteenth century was Mr. James
Barclay, who was appointed in June, 1742, and
whose experience as a teacher, attainments, and
character, caused him to be remembered by his
scholars long after his removal to Dalkeith, where
he died in 1765.
When Henry Mackenzie, author of the ?? Man of
Feeling,? was verging on his eightieth year, he
contributed to Dr. Steven?s CL History,? his reminiscences
of the school in his own early years,
between 1752 and 1757, which we are tempted to
quote at length :-
?Rector Lees, a very respectable, grave, and
gentlemanlike man, father or uncle, I am not sure
which, of Lees, the Secretary for Ireland. He
maintained great dignity, treating the other masters
somewhat de had a bar; severe, and rather too
intolerant of dulness, but kind to more promising
talents. It will not be thought vanity, I trust-for
I speak with the sincerity and correctness of a
third person-when I say that I was rather a
favourite with him, and used for several years after
he resigned his office to drink tea with him at his
house in a large land or building at the country
end of the suburb called Pleasance, built by one
Hunter, a tailor, whence it got the name of
? Hunter?s Folly,? or the Castle 0? Clouts.?
cc MAsrERs continued-Ersf, or youngest class,
when I was put to school, Farquhar, a native of
Banffshire, cousin-german of Farquhar, author of
admired-and indeed t h q may be called admirable-
sermons, and of Mr. Farquhar, the Vicar of
Hayes, a sort of Parson Adams,? a favourite ot ... Old High School.] RECTORS AND TEACHERS, 291 , in use to teach in those mornings and forenoons. And ...

Book 4  p. 291
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2 1 9 Fountainbridge.] INDIA-RUBBER COMPANY.
flesher would venture to kill any beast till all the
different parts were bespoke, butcher meat being
then a very unsaleable article.?
At the southern extremity of Fountainbridge
stood, till within the last few years, an antique villa,
a little way back from the road, named Bainfield,
for years the residence of an old and well-known
citizen, Bain Whyt, a W.S. of I 789, who was senior
lieutenant and afterwards adjutant of the First
Edinburgh Volunteers formed in 1794, and who
is still remembered in Edinburgh as the founder
of the Wagering Club in 1775. Yearly, on the
night of the 30th January, the members of this
club meet and solemnly drink to the memory
of ?? Old Bain Whyt,? in whose honour songs are
occasionally sung, the character of which may be
gathered from the following two verses of one sung
at the ninetieth anniversary :-
?? Come all ye jolly wagerers, and listen unto me,
And I will sing a little song, composed in memorie
Of the fine old Scottish gentleman, who in 1775,
Did plant the tree that still we see, right hearty and
alive.
Chorus-Right hearty and alive,
In this its ninetieth year !
With mirth and hearty cheer !
?Ihen drink to-night, to old Bain Whyt,
6? When haughty Gaul did fiercely crow and threaten swcird
Bain Whyt among the foremost rose to guard our native
A soldier good, full armed he stood, for home and
The pattern of a Ioyal man, a British volunteer !
in hand,
land ;
country dear,
Chorus-A British volunteer,
And an adjutant was he !
To him with three times three ! ?
Then fill the cup, and quaff it up,
The wagers, for small sums, a bottle of wine, a
dinner, perhaps, are made on the probable course
of current public events. They are then noted and
sealed up, to be opened and read from the chair
that night twelvemonth-the club holding no meetings
in the interim ; and the actual results are often
so far wide of all human speculation as to excite
both amusement and interest.
North of Bainfield, in what is still called Gilmore
Park, are two of the largest and finest manufactories
of India-rubber in the world, and the operations
conducted therein illustrate most ably the
nature and capabilities of caoutchouc. They stand
near each other on the western bank of the Union
Canal, and belong respectively to the North British
Rubber Company, and the Scottish Vulcanite
Company.
In 1855 an enterprising American brought to
Edinburgh the necessary capital and machinery
for an India-rubber manufactory, and acquired
possession of a great quadrangular block of fine
buildings, known as the Castle Silk Mills, which
had long been vacant, the projectors having failed
in their expectations. This edifice consists of two
large blocks of five floors each, with a number of
adjacent buildings.
Here the India-rubber arrives in different forms,
according to the fashion of the countries that produce
it, some shaped like quaint bottles, and some
in balls, of five inches diameter, and it is carefully
examined with a view to the detection of foreign
substances before it is subjected to the processes of
manufacture. After being softened in hot water,
the balls are crushed into thin pieces between
cylinders, the rubber being sent through and
through again and again, until it is thoroughly
crushed and assumes the form of a web. If further
reduction is necessary, it is sent through a third
set of rollers, and to rid it completely of foreign
matter, leaves or bark, &c., washing and cleansing
machines are employed. So adhesive is its nature,
that cleansing would prove abortive in a dry state,
and consequently jets of water flow constantly on
the rubber and cylinders when the machines referred
to are in operation. After being thus
cleansed, the webs are hung in the warm atmosphere
of the drying-room for several weeks.
From thence they are taken to ?? the mill,? which
occupies two entire floors of the main building.
The grinding machines; to the operation af which
the rubber is subjected, consist of two cylinders,
one of which is moderately heated by steam, and
the webs formed by the washing-machines are kept
revolving round and round the cylinders, until the
material becomes quite plastic. At this stage, sulphur,
or other chemical substances, are incorporated
with it, to determinate its ultimate character, and it
is then made up into seven or eight pound rolls,
while all further treatment depends upon the purpose
to which it is to be applied.
Great is the variety of goods produced here.
One of the upper floors is occupied by shoemakers
alone. There boots and shoes of all sizes are
made, but more especially the goloshes for wearing
over them; another floor is occupied by the makers
of coats, leggings, cushions, bags, and so forth. The ?
light-coloured coats foi India are the finest articles
made here.
The North British Rubber Company have paid
much attention to that department which includes
the manufacture of mbes, springs, washers, drivingbelts,
tires for wheels, &c They made the latter
for the wheels of the road steamer invented by
Rfr. R W. Thomson, of Edinburgh-huge rings of ... 1 9 Fountainbridge.] INDIA-RUBBER COMPANY. flesher would venture to kill any beast till all the different parts ...

Book 4  p. 219
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282 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street.
style, with many ornate gables, dormer windows,
%ut was a second time stolen ; and in the strangulation
on the scaffold, and the being fouricl in a
ditch among water, the superstitious saw retributive
justice for the murder of which he was
assumed to be guilty. ? I t will be acknowledged,?
says the author of the ? Domestic Annals,?
?that in the circumstances related there is not a
particle of valid evidence against the young man.
The surgeons? opinion as to the fact of strangulation
is not entitled to much regard ; but, granting
its solidity, it does not prove the guilt of the ac-
.cused. The horror of the young man on seeing
his father?s blood might be referred to painful recol-
Jections of that profligate conduct which he knew
had distressed his parent, and brought his grey
hairs with sorrow to the grave-especially when we
reflect that Stanfield would himself be impressed
with the superstitious feelings of the age, and might
.accept the hzmorrhage as an accusation by heaven
on account of the concern his conduct had in
shortening the life of his father. The whole case
:seems to be a lively illustration of the effect of
superstitious feelings in blinding justice.?
We have thus traced the history of the High
Street and its closes down once more to the
Nether Bow.
In the World?s End Close Lady Lawrence was
a residenter in 1761, and Lady Huntingdon in 1784,
and for some years after the creation of the New
Town, people of position continued to linger in the
Old Town and in the Canongate. And from Peter
Williamson?s curious little ?? Directory ? for 1784,
we can glean a few names, thus :-
I Scottish gentleman, who, though he did not partici-
Lady Mary Carnegie, in Bailie Fyfe?s Close;
Lady Colstoun and the Hon. Alexander Gordon,
on the Castle Hill; General Douglas, in Baron
Maule?s Close; Lady Jean Gordon, in the Hammerman?s
Close; Sir James Wemyss, in Riddle?s
Close; Sir John Whiteford of that ilk, in the
Anchor Close ; Sir Jameg Campbell, in the Old
Bank Close; Erskine of Cardross, in the Horse
Wynd ; Lady Home, in Lady Stair?s Close.
In Monteith?s Close, in 1794, we find in the
? Scottish Hist. Register for 1795 recorded the
death of Mr. John Douglas, Albany herald, uncle
of Sir Andrew Snape Douglas, who was captain of
the Queen CharZoffe, of IIO guns, and who fought
her so valiantly in Lord Bridport?s battle on ? the
glonous 23rd of June, 1795.? The house occupied
?by Lady Rothiemay in Turk?s Close, below
Liberton?s Wynd, was advertised for sale in the
Couranf of 1761 ; and there lived, till his death in
1797, James Nelson, collector of the Ministers?
Widows? Fund.
In Morrison?s Close in 1783, we find one of the
most fashionable modisfes of Edinburgh announcing
in the Adverfiser of that year, that she is from ?one
of the most eminent houses in London,? and that
her work is finished in the newest fashions :-
? Chemize de Lorraine, Grecian Robes, Habit Bell,
Robe de Coure, and Levites, different kinds, all in
the most genteel and approved manner, and on the
most reasonable terms.?
In the same year, the signboard of James and
Francis Jeffrey, father and uncle of Lord Jeffrey,
still hung in the Lawnmarket.
CHAPTER XXXIV.
NEW STREETS WITHIN THE AREA OF THE FLODDEN WALL.
h r d ?Cockburn Street-Lord Cockburn-The Scotsmun NewspapeFCharles Maclaren and Alexander Russel-The Queen?s Edinburgh
Rifle Brigade-St. Giles Street-Sketch of the Rise d Journalism in Edinburgh-The EdinQxrgk Courunt-The Daily Rnrieur-Jelfrey
Street-New Trinity College Church
THE principal thoroughfare, which of late years has
been run through the dense masses of the ancient
alleys we have been describing, is Lord Cockburn
Street, which was formed in 1859, and strikes
northward from the north-west corner of Hunter?s
Square, to connect the centre of the 012 city with
-the railway terminus at Waverley Bridge ; it goes
curving down a comparatively steep series of slopes,
and is mainly edificed in the Scottish baronial
lofty tenements in many of the closes that descend
from the north side of the High Street, and was
very properly named after Lord Cockburn, one
entitled to special remembrance on many accounts,
and for the deep interest he took in all matters
connected with his birthplace. When he died,
in April, 1854, he was one of the best and kindliest
of the old school of ?Parliameht House Whigs,?
and was a thorough, honest, shrewd, and benevolent
and conical turrets, high over all of which towers
. the dark and mighty mass of the Royal Exchange.
This new street expdses aromantic section of the
pate to any extent in the literary labours of his
contemporaries, has left behind him an interesting
volume of ? Memorials.? Many can yet recall his ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street. style, with many ornate gables, dormer windows, %ut was a second time ...

Book 2  p. 282
(Score 0.25)

98 OLD AKD NEW EDINBURGH. [The Mound
and ten elders, of whom five shall retire ?by
rotation from year to year, two only of whom may
be re-elected, and reserving the rights competent
to all parties under the laws of the Church ; with
authority to undertake the general administration
of college property and finances, to give advice in
cases of difficulty ; to originate and prosecute before
the Church Court processes asainst any of the
professors for heresy or immorality, and to make
necessary inquiries for that purpose ; to originate
also, and prepare for the decision of the General
Assembly, proposals for the retirement of professors
disabled by age or infirmity, and for fixing the
retiring allowance they are to receive.? The
convener is named by the Assembly, and his committees
meet as often as may be necessary. They
submit to the Assembly an annual report of their
proceedings, with a summary of the attendance
during the session.
The election of professors is vested in the
General Assembly ; but they are inducted into their
respective offices by the Presbytery. There is a
Senatus Acadet?~icus, composed of the Principal and
professors.
The library of this college originated with Dr.
Welsh, who in 1843 brought the subject before the
Assembly. He obtained large and valuable
donations in money and books from friends and
from Scottish publishers in this country and
America. Among the benefactors were the Earl
of Dalhousie, Lords Effingham and Rutherford,
General McDowall of Stranraer, Buchan of Kelloe,
and others. The endowment now? amounts
to about A139 per annum. The library is extensive
and valuable, numbering about 35,000 volumes. It
is peculiarly rich in patristic theology, ecclesiastical
history, systematic theology, and works belonging
to the epoch of the Reformation.
The museum was begun by Dr. Fletning, but was
mainly indebted to the efforts of the late Mrs.
Macfie of Longhouse, who, at its commencement;
enriched it with a large number of valuable
specimens, and led many of her friends to take an
interest in its development. The geological
department, which is on the same floor with the
class-room, contains a large number of fossils, many
of which are very curious. In the upper museum
is the varied and valuable collection of minerals,
given by the late Dr. Johnston of Durham. In the
same room are numerous specimens of comparative
anatomy, The herbarium is chiefly composed of
British plants.
The endowment fund now amounts to above
&+4,ooo, exclusive of LIO,OOO bequeathed for the
endowment of a chair for natural science.
The whole scheme of scholarships in the Free
Church College originated with Mr. James Hog
of Newliston, who, in 1845, by personal exertions,
raised about A700 for this object, and continued to
do so for eight years subsequently. Legacies and
donations at length accumulated such a fund as to
render subscriptions no longer necessary.
A dining hall, wherein the professors preside by
turn, is attached to the New College, to which all
matriculated students, i.e., those paying the common
fee, or securing as foreigners a free ticket,
are entitled to dine on payment of a moderate
sum.
The common hall of the college is converted
into a reading-room during the session. All
students may become members on the payment of
a trifling fee, and the arrangements are conducted
by a committee of themselves. Since 1867 a large
mnasium has been fitted up for the use of the
students, under the management of eight of their
number, the almost nominal subscription of sixpence
from each being found sufficient to defray
the current expenses.
Westward of the Earthen Mound, the once fetid
morass that formed the bed of the loch, and
which had been styled ?a pest-bed for all the
city,? is now a beautiful garden, so formed
under the powers of a special statute in 1816-20,
by which the ground there belonging originally to
the citizens became the private property of a few
proprietors of keys-the improvements being in
the first instance urged by Skene, the friend of
Sir Walter Scott
In his ?Journal,? under date of January, 1826, Sir
Walter says :-? Wrote till twelve a.ni., finishing half
of what I call a good day?s work, ten pages of print,
or rather twelve. Then walked in the Princes
Street pleasure grounds with the Good Samaritan
James Skene, the only one among my numerous
friends who can properly be termed amicus curarum .
mearem, others being too busy or too gay. The.
walks have been conducted on the whole with
much taste, though Skene has undergone much?
criticism, the usual reward of public exertions,
on account of his plans. It is singular to walk
close beneath the grim old castle and think what
scenes it must have seen, and how many generations
of threescore and ten have risen and passed
away. It is a place to cure one of too much
sensation over eanhly subjects of imitation.?
He refers here to James Skene of Rubislaw, a
cornet of the Light Horse Volunteers, the corps of
which he himself was quartermaster, and to whom
he dedicated the fourth canto of ? Marmion,? and
refers thus :- ... OLD AKD NEW EDINBURGH. [The Mound and ten elders, of whom five shall retire ?by rotation from year to year, ...

Book 3  p. 98
(Score 0.25)

258 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith
helmet, now preserved in the Antiquarian Museum
-and the entrance gate or archway on the north
side of Couper Street. It is elliptical, goes the
whole depth of the original rampart, and has had
a portcullis, but is only nine feet high from the
keystone to the ground, which must have risen
here ; and in the Advertiser for 1789 (No. 2,668),
it is recorded that, ? On Monday last, as a gentleman?s
coach was driving through an arch of the
citadel at Leith, the coachman, not perceiving the
lowness of the arch, was unfortunately killed.?
?( Many still living,? says Wilson, writing in 1847,
?can remember when this arch (with the house
now built above it) stood on the open beach, though
now a wide space intervenes between it and the
docks ; and the Mariners? Church, as well as a long
range of substantial houses in Commercial Street,
have been erected on the recovered land?
After the Restoration a partial demolition of the
citadel and sale of its materials began ; thus, it is
stated in the Records of Heriot?s Hospital, that
the ?Town Council, on 7th April, 1673, ?unanimously
understood that the Kirk of the citadel1 (of
Leith), and all that is therein, both timber, seats,
steeple, stone and glass work, be made use of and
used to the best avail for reparation of the hospital
chapel, and ordains the treasurer of the hospital
to see the samyn done with all conveniency.?
Maitland describes the citadel as having been of
pentagonal form, with five bastions, adding that it
cost the city ?no less a sum than LII,OOO,? thus
we must suppose that English money contributed
largely to its erection. On its being granted to the
Earl of Lauderdale by the king, the former sold it
to the city for &5,000, and the houses within were
sold or let to various persons, whose names occur
in various records from time to time.
A glass-house, for the manufacture of bottles, is
announced in the ?? Kingdom?s Intelligence,? under
date 1663, as having been ?? erected in the citadel
of Leith by English residents,? for the manufacture
of wine and beer glasses, and mutchkin and chopin
bottles. .
On this, a writer remarks that it will at once
strike the reader there is a curious conjunction here
of Scottish and English customs. Beer, under its
name, was previously unknown in Scotland, and
mutchkins and chopins never figured in any table
of English measures.
Among those who dwelt in the citadel, and had
houses there, we may note the gallant Duke of
Gordon, who defended the Castle of Edinburgh in
~688-9 against FVilliam of Orange, ?and died at
his residence in the citadel of Leith in 1716.?
A large and commodious dwelling-house there,
?lately belonging to and possest by the Lady
Bruce, with an agreeable prospect,? having thirteert
fire rooms, stables, and chaise-house, is announced
for sale in the Courant for October, 1761,
In the Advertiser for December, 1783, the house
of Sir William Erskine there is announced as to let ;
the drawingroom thirty-one feet by nineteen j (? a
small field for a cow may be had if wanted; the
walks round the house make almost a circuit round
the citadel, and, being situated cZose to the sea, command
a most pleasing view of the shipping in the
Forth.?
In the HeraZd and ChronicZe for 1800 ?the
lower half of the large house ? last possessed by
Lady Eleonora Dundas is advertised to let; but
even by the time Kincaid wrote his ?( Hktory,? such
aristocratic residents had given place to the keepers
of summer and bathing quarters, for which last the
beach and its vicinity gave every facility.
Mr. Campbell?s house (lately possessed by Major
Laurenson), having eight rooms, with stabling, is
announced as bathing quarters in the Advertiser
of 1802.
North Leith Sands, adjacent to the citadel,
existed till nearly the formation of the old docks.
In 1774, John Milne, shipmaster from Banff,
was found on them drowned ; and the Scots Magazine
for the same year records that on ?Sunday,
December 4, a considerable damage was done to
the shipping in Leith harbour by the tide, which
rose higher than it has ever been known for many
years. The stone pier was damaged, some houses
in the citadel suffered, and a great part of the
bank from that place to Newhaven was swept
away. The magistrates and Town Council af
Edinburgh, on the zIst, were pleased to order
twenty guineas to be given to the Master of the
Trinity House of Leith, to be distributed among
the sufferers.?
Wilson, quoting Campbell?s ?History of Leith,?
says : ?? Not only can citizens remember when the
spray of the sea billows was dashed by the east
wind against the last relic of the citadel, that
now stands so remote from the rising tide, but it
is only about sixty years since a ship was wrecked
upon the adjoining beach, and went to pieces,
while its bowsprit kept beating against the walls
of the citadel at every surge of the rolling waves,
that forced it higher on the strand.?
This anecdote is perhaps corroborated by the
following, which we find in the Edinburgh Herald
for December, 1800 :-(?On Friday last, as the
sloop ITmIeavour, of Thurso, Lye11 master, from
the Highlands, laden with kelp and other goods,
was taking the harbour of Leith, she struck the ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith helmet, now preserved in the Antiquarian Museum -and the entrance gate or ...

Book 6  p. 258
(Score 0.25)

354 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Hawthornden.
walls seven feet thick, and the remains of a banqueting-
hall with large windows, and walls five
feet thick.
The more modern house of the seventeenth century,
which has been engrafted on this fortress
(probably destroyed by the English in 1544 or
I 547) measures ninety feet long, with an average
breadth of twenty-three feet, and exhibits the usual
crowstepped gables, massive chimneys, and small
windows of the period.
In the days of the War of Independence the
Castle of Hawthornden belonged to a family called
Abernethy. It was then the stronghold of Sir
Lawrence Abernethy (the second son of Sir William
Abernethy of Saltoun), who, though a gallant
soldier, was one of those infamous traitors who
turned their swords against their own country, and
served the King of England.
He it was who, on the day Bannockburn was
fought and when Douglas was in hot pursuit of the
fugitive Edward II., was met, at the Torwood, with
a body of cavalry hastening to join the enemy, and
who added to the infamy of his conduct by instantly
joining in the pursuit, on learning from Douglas
that the English were utterly defeated and dispersed.
Three-and-twenty years after, the same traitor,
when again in the English interest, had the better
of the Knight of Liddesdale and his forces five in
one day, yet was at last defeated in the end, and
taken prisoner before sunset. All this is recorded
in stone in an inscription on a tablet at the west
end of the house. At this time, 1338, Sir Alexander
Ramsay of Dalhousie, emulating the faith and
valour of Douglas, at the head of a body of knights
and men-at-arms, whom his fame and daring as a
skilful warrior had drawn to his standard, sallied
from his secret stronghold, the vast caves of Hawthornden,
and after sweeping the southern Lowlands,
penetrated with fire and sword into Englaod ;
and, on one occasion, by drawing the English into an
ambush near Wark, made such a slaughter of them
that scarcely one escaped.
For these services he received a crown charter
from David II., in 1369, of Nether Liberton, and
of the lands of Hawthornden in the barony of
Conyrtoun, Edinburghshire, ? quhilk Lawrence
Abernethy foris fecit? for his treasons ; but, nevertheless,
his son would seem to have succeeded.
In after years the estate had changed proprietors,
being sold to the Douglases; and among the slain
at Flodden was Sir John Douglas of Hawthornden,
with his neighbour, Sir William Sinclair of Roslin.
By the Douglases Hawthornden was sold to
.the Urummonds of Carnock, with whom it has
since remained ; and the ancient families of Abernethy
and Drummond became, curiously enough,
united by the marriage of Bishop Abernethy and
Barbara Drummond.
The most remarkable member of this race was
William Drummond (more generally known as
? Hawthornden ?), the historian of the Jameses,
the tender lover and gentle poet, the handsome
cavalier, whom Cornelius Jansen?s pencil has portrayed,
and who died of a broken heart for the
execution of Charles I. .
His history of the Jameses he dedicates, ? To the
Right Honorable my very good Lord and Chiel,
the Earl of Perth,? but it was not published till
after his death.
The repair of the ancient house in its present
form took place in 1638 and 1643, as inscriptions
record.
Few poets have enjoyed a more poetical home
than William Drummond, whose mind was, no
doubt, influenced by the exquisite scenery amid
which he was born (in 1585) and reared. He has
repaid it, says a writer, by adding to this lovely
locality the recollections of himself, and by the
tender, graceful, and pathetic verses he composed
under the roof of his historical home.
He came of a long line of ancestors, among
whom he prized highly, as a member of his family,
Annabella Drummond, queen of King Robert 111.
Early in life he fell in love with a daughter of
Cunninghame of Bames, a girl whose beauty and
accomplishments-rare for that age-he has recorded
in verse.
Their weddingday was fixed, and on its eve she
died. After this fatal event Drummond quitted
Hawthoroden, and for years dwelt on the Continent
as a wanderer; but the winter of 1618 saw
him again in his sequestered home by the Esk,
where he was visited by the famous Ben Jonson,
who, it is said, travelled on foot to Scotland to see
him. At the east end of the ruins that adjoin the
modern mansion is a famous sycamore, called One
of the Four Sisters. It is twenty-two feet in circumference,
and under this tree Drunimond was
sitting when Jonson arrived at Hawthornden. It
would seem that the latter had to fly from England
at this time for having slain a man in a duel.
Reference is made to this in some of Drummond?s
notes, and a corroboration of the story is given by
Mr. Collier, in his ?? Life of AIleyn I? the actor, and
founder of Dulwich College.
Jonson stayed same weeks at Hawthornden,
where he wrote two of the short pieces included in
his ? Underwoods? and ? My Picture left in
Scotland,? with a . lang inscription to his. host. ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Hawthornden. walls seven feet thick, and the remains of a banqueting- hall with large ...

Book 6  p. 354
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362 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Iauwade
families of note. Philip became sheriff of the
Mearns, and ancestor of the Melvilles of Glenbervie
; Walter, of the Melvilles in Fife ; but Waren
cannot be traced beyond I 178.
By the chartulary of Aberdeen, Sir Gregory of
Melville, in Lothian, would seem to have witnessed
a charter of Alexander II., confirming a gift of
Duncan, eighth Earl of Mar, to the church of
Aberdeen, together with Ranulph de Lambley,
bishop of that see, who died in 1247.
His son William was succeeded in turn by his
son, Sir John Melville, lord of the barony of
Melville, between the years 1329 and 1344.
In the reign of King Robert II., the Melvilles
of Melville ended in Agnes (grandchild and sole
heiress of Sir John of that ilk), who married Sir
John Ross of Halkhead, to whom and his heirs
the estate passed, and continued to be the property
of his descendants, the Lords Ross of Halkhead,
till the middle of the eighteenth century,
when that old Scottish title became extinct, and
Melville passed into the possession of a family
named Rennie.
The present castle, we have said, was built by
the first Viscount Melville, who married, first, Elizabeth,
daughter of David Rennie of Melville, and
was raised to the peerage in 1802. As Henry
Dundas-descended from the old and honourable
house of Arniston, well known in Scottish legal
history-he had risen to eminence as Lord Advocate
of Scotland in 1775, and subsequently filled
some high official situations in England. He
mamed, secondly, Jane, daughter of John, second
Earl of Hopetoun, by whom he had no family.
In 1805 he had the misfortune to be impeached
by the House of Commons for alleged malversation
in his office as Treasurer of the Navy, and after a
full trial by his peers in Westminster Hall, was
judged not guilty. On this event the following
remarks occur in Lockhart?s ?? Life of Scott ? :-
? The impeachment of Lord Melville was among
the first measures of the new (Whig) Government ;
and personal affection and gratitude, graced as well
as heightened the zeal with which Scott watched
the issue of this-in his eyes-vindictive proceeding
; but though the ex-minister?s ultimate acquittal
was, as to all the charges involving his personal
honour, complete, it must be allowed that the investigation
brought out many circumstances by no
means creditable to his discretion-and the rejoicings
ought not, therefore, to have been scornfully
jubilant. Such they were, however-at least, i n
Edinburgh ; and Scott took his full share in them
by inditing a song, which was sung by James
Ballantyne at a public dinner given in honour 01
the event, 27th June, 1806.? Of this song one
verse will suffice as a specimen of the eight of
which it consists :-
?? Since here we are set in array round the table,
Five hundred good fellows well met in a hall,
Come listen, brave boys, and I?ll sing as I?m able,
How innocence triumphed and pride got a fall.
Push round the claret-
Come, stewards, don?t spare it-
Here, boys,
Off with it merrily-
With rapture you?ll drink to the toast that I give :
MELVILLE for ever, and long may he live ! ?
It was published on a broadside, to be sold
and sung in the streets.
Kay has a portrait of the first Lord Melville in
the uniforni of the Edinburgh Volunteers, of which
he became a member in July, 1795, but declined
the commission of captain-lieutenant. .
Kay?s editor gives us the following anecdote :-
During the Coalition Administration,. the Hon.
Henry Erskine held the office of Lord Advocate
of Scotland. He succeeded Dundas (the future
Viscount Melville), and on the morning of his
appointment he met the latter in the outer house,
when, observing that Dundas had already resumed
the ordinary stuff gown which advpcates generally
wear, he said, gaily, ?I must leave off talking, and
go and order my silk gown,? the official costume
of the Lord Advocate and Solicitor-General. ? It
is hardly worth while,? said Mr. Dundas, drily,
?for all the time you will want it : you had better
borrow mine.?
Erskine?s retort was very smart.
?From the readiness with which you make me
the offer, Dundas, I have no doubt the gown is
made tojtaanyparo; but it shall never be said
of Harry Erskine that he put on the abandoned
habits of his predecessor.? .
The prediction of Dundas proved true, however,
for Erskine held office only for a very short period,
in consequence of a sudden change of ministry.
Lord Melville died on the 29th May, 1811, in
the same week that saw the deatin of his dearest
friend and neighbour, whose funeral he had come to
attend, the Lord President Blair of Avontoun ; and
the fact of ? their houses being next to one another
with only a single wall between the bed-rooms, where
the dead bodies of each were lying at the same
time, made a deep impression on their friends.?
He was succeeded by his eldest son, Robert
Saunders-Dundas, as second Viscount Melville in
Lothian, and Baron Uunira in Perthshire. He
was born in 1771, and married Anne, daughter
and co-heiress of Richard Huck Saunders, M.D.,
upon which he assumed the additional name of
. ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Iauwade families of note. Philip became sheriff of the Mearns, and ancestor of the ...

Book 6  p. 362
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High Street.] THOMAS BASSANDYNE, PRINTER. 207
in an investment in favour of John Preston, Commissary,
dated 1581, is described as ?that tenement
of lands lying in the said burgh on the south
side of the High Street, and on the entry of the
wynd of the Preaching Friars, formerly waste,
having been burnt by the English.? Thus it
would appear to have been built between 1544
and 158I-probably near the former date, as the
situation being central it was unlikely to remain
long waste.
In 1572 it suffered greatly during the siege of
the Castle, in common with the Earl of Mar?s
mansion in the Cowgate, and Baxter?s house in
Dalgleish?s Close.
Its proprietor, John Preston, in 1581, though the
son of a baker, was an eminent lawyer in the time
of James VI., who was raised to the Bench in
March, 1594, as Lord Fentonbarns (in succession
to James first Lord Balmerino) and died President
of the Court in 1616. His mode of election
was curious. ?The King,? says Lord Hailes,
?named Mr. Peter Rollock, Bishop of Dunkeld,
Mr. David MacGill of Cranstoun-Riddel, and Mr.
Preston of Fentonbarns, requesting the Lords to
choose the fittest of the three to be an Ordinary
Lord of Session. The Lords were solemnly sworn
to choose according to their knowledge and conscience.
In consequence of this, coigecfi in $ileum
;zominibus [by ballot], the Lords elected Mr. John
Preston.?
Before his death he attained to great wealth and
dignity; he was knighted by King James, and his
daughter Margaret wzs married in this old house to
Robert Nairn of? Mackersie, and became mother
of the first Lord ?Nairn, who was placed in the
Tower of London by Cromwell in 1650, with many
others, and not released till the Restoration, ten
years after.
The senator?s son, Sir Michael Preston, succeeded
him in possession of the mansion in 1610.
Preston, together with Craig and Stirling, is
mentioned in a satirical production of Alexander
Montgomery, author of ?The Cherrie and the
Slae,? and before whom he had become involved
in a tedious suit before the Court of Session, and
was at one time threatened with quarters in the
Tolbooth. He wrote of Fentonbarns as-
? A baxter?s bird, a bluitter beggar born?
The old house narrowly escaped total destruction
by a fire in 1795, thus nearly anticipating that
,of later years. It was the last survivor of the long
and unbroken range of quaint and stately edifices
on the south side of the street, between St. Giles?s
and the Nether Bow. An outside stair gave access
to the first floor, the stone turnpike stair of which
bore the abbreviated legend in Gothic characters-
DEO. HONOR . ET. GLIA.
A little lower down the street, and nearly
opposite the house of John b o x , dwelt Thomas
Bassandyne, in that tall old mansion we have
already referred to in an early chapter as having
had built into its front the fine sculptured heads of
the Emperor Septinius Severus and his Empress
Julia, and having between them a tablet inscribed,
? In sudorc vuh fui vecmir pane tz~o,? which
Wilson shrewdly suspects to have been a fragment
of the adjacent convent of St May, or some other
old monastic establishment in Edinburgh.
Here it was that Thomas Bassandyne, a famous
old Scottish typographer, in conjunction with
Alexander Arbuthnot, undertook in 1574 the then
arduous task of issuing his beautiful folio Bible,
with George Young, a servant (clerk) of the Abbot
of Dunfermline, as a corrector of the press ; the
?? printing irons,? or types were of cast-metal. The
work of printing the Bible proved a heavier task
than they expected, as it had met with many impediments
; and before the Privy Council, which
was giving them monetary aid, they pleaded for
nine months to complete the work, or return the
money contributed towards it by various Scottish
parishes. In this we see the first attempt to
publish by subscription. Here, too, Thomas
Bassandyne printed his rare quarto edition of Sir
David Lindesay?s Poems in 1574. His will is
preserved in the Banizatyne MisceZZany, and from
it it appears, that his mother was life-rented in that
part of the house which formed the printer?s
dwelling, the annual rent of which was eight
pounds ; while the remainder that belonged to
himself, was occupied by his brother Michael. At
all events, he leaves in his will ?his thrid, the
ane half thairof to his wyf, and the vthir half to
his mother, and Michael and his bairnes,? in
which says the memorialist of Edinburgh, we
presume, to have been included the house, which
we find both he and his bairns afterwards possessing,
and for which no rent would appear to
have been exacted during the lifetime of the
generous old printer.
His house is repeatedly referred to in the evidence
of the accomplices of the Earl of Bothwell in the
murder of Darnley, an event which took place
during the life of Bassandyne, beneath whose house
was one occupied by a sword slipper, with whom it
is said lodged the Black John of Ormiston, one of
the conspirators, for whom the rest called on the
night of the murder. ... Street.] THOMAS BASSANDYNE, PRINTER. 207 in an investment in favour of John Preston, Commissary, dated 1581, ...

Book 2  p. 207
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North Bridge.] ADAM BLACK. 339
removal in 1850 to a handsome and more spacious
.one, built in a kind of old Scoto-English style of
.architecture, an the opposite side, and on the site
of a portion of Halkerston?s Wynd, and numbered
as 6 in the street, the establishment of the old and
well-known firm of publishers, Adam and Charles
Black. The former, long a leading citizen, magistrate,
and member of the city, was born in 1784,
.and died on the 24th of January, 1874.
Educated at the High School and University of
his native city Edinburgh, though but the son of a
humble builder, Adam Black raised himself to affluuence,
and is said to have more than once declined
the honour of knighthood. After serving his apprenticeship,
he started in business as a bookseller,
and among other important works brought out the
? Encyclopzedia Britannica,? under the joint conduct
of Professor Macvey Napier and James
Browne, LL.D.; and to this his own pen contributed
many articles. From the beginning of his
career he took an active part in the politics of the
city, and in the early part of the present century was
among the boldest of the slender band of Liberals
who stood up for burgh reform, as the preliminary
to the great measure of a Parliamentary one.
When the other wel!-known firm of constable
and Co. failed, the publication of The Edinburgh
Revim passed into the hands of Adam Black, and
thus drew the Liberal party more closely by his
side. He was Provost of the city from 1843 to
1848, and filled his trust so much to the satisfaction
of the citizens, that they subscribed to have
his portrait painted to ornament the walls of the
Council Room. He was proprietor, by purchase,
of the copyright of ?? The Waverley Novels,? and
many other works by Sir Walter Scott. It was
when he was beyond his seventieth year that he
was returned to the House of Commons as member
. for the city, in succession to Lord Macaulay ; and
being a member of the Independent body, he
was ever an advocate for unsechrian education,
absolute freedom of trade, and the most complete
toleration in religion; but the cradle of his fortunes
was that little shop which till 1821 was, as
we said, deemed ample enough for the postal
establishment and requirements of all Scotland.
The new buildings along the west side of the
North Bridge, from Princes Street to the first open
arch, were erected between 1817 and 1819, with a
Tange of shops then deemed magnificent, but far
outshone by hundreds erected since in their vicinity,
These buildings are twice the height in rear that
they are to the bridge front, and their erection
intercepted a grand view from Waterloo Place
south-westward to the Castle, and thus roused a
spirited, but, as it eventually proved, futile resistance,
on the part of Cockburn and Cranston, Professor
Playfair, Henry Mackenzie, James Stuart of
Dunearn, and others, who spent about &I,OOO in
the work of opposition.
Their erection led to the demolition of a small
edificed thoroughfare named Ann Street, which
once contained the house of a well-known literary
citizen, John Grieve, who gave free quarters to
James Hogg, the Ettrick Shepherd, when the latter
arrived in Edinburgh in 1810, and published a
little volume of poems entitled ?The Forest Mintrel,?
from which he derived no pecuniary benefit.
Poverty was pressing sorely on Hogg, ?but,? says
a biographer, ?he found kind and steady friends in
Messrs. Grieve and Scott, hatters, whose welltimed
benevolence supplied all his wants.?
While he was still in obscurity, John Grieve
obtained him introductions to Professor Wilson
and other local literati, which ultimately led to his
becoming a contributor to BZackwood?s Magazine.
Mr. Grieve is referred to in the quarrel between
the Shepherd and the Blackwoods concerning the
famous Nocft-s Ambrosiana ? He ceased to contribute,
whereupon Wilson wrote thus to Grieve on
the subject :-
?If Mr. Hogg puts his return to ?Maga? on the
ground that ? Maga? suffers from his absence from
her pages, and that Mr. B. must be very desirous
of his re-assistance, that will be at once a stumblingblock
in the way of settlement ; for Mr. B., whether
rightly or wrongly, will not make, the admission.
No doubt Mr. H.?s articles were often excellent,
and no doubt ?Noctes? were very popular, but the
magazine, however much many readers must have
missed Mr. Hogg and the ?Noctes,? has been
gradually increasing in sale, and therefore Mr.
B. will never give in to that view of the Subject.
? Mr. Hogg in his letter to me, and in a long
conversation I had with him in my own house
yesterday after dinner, sticks to his proposaf of LIOO settled on him, on condition of writing,
and becoming again the hero of the ?Noctes? as
before. I see many difficulties in the way of such
an arrangement, and I know that Mr. Blackwood
will never agree to it in any shape, for it might
eventually prove degrading and disgraceful to both
parties, appearing to the public to be a bribe given
and taken dishonourably.?
?My father,? adds Mrs. Gordon, whose life of
the Professor we quote, ?never wrote another
?Noctes ? after the Shepherd?s death, which took
place in 1835.?
In consequence of tie increase of populatibn
and traffic by its vicinity to the railway termini, ... Bridge.] ADAM BLACK. 339 removal in 1850 to a handsome and more spacious .one, built in a kind of old ...

Book 2  p. 339
(Score 0.25)

Newhaven.] REV. DR. FAIRBAIRN. 303
In 1820 there were landed at the old stone
pier of Newhaven, John Baud and fourteen other
prisoners, ?f Radicals ? who had been taken after
the skirmish at Bonny Bridge, by the 10th Hussars
and the Stirlingshire yeomanry. They had been
brought by water from the castle of Stirling, and
were conveyed to gaol from Newhaven in six carriages,
escorted by a macer of justiciary, and the
detachment of a Veteran Battalion.
In the following year, and while railways were
still in the womb of the future, the Scots Magazine
announces, that a gentleman who had left
Belfast on a Thursday, ?reached Glasgow the
same evening, and embarked on board the Tounit
(steamer) at Newhaven on Friday, and arrived at
Aberdeen that night. Had such an event been
predicted fifty years ago, it would have been as
easy to make people believe that this journey would
have been accomplished by means of a balloon.?
About five hundred yards westward oi the stone
pier, a chain pier was constructed in the year 1821,
by Captain (afterwards Sir Samuel) Brown, of the
Royal Navy, at the cost of A4,ooo. It is five
hundred feet long, four feet wide, has a depth
at low water of from five to six feet, and served
for the use of the steam packets to Stirling,
Queensferry, and other places above and below
Leith; yet, being unable to offer accommodation for
the bulky steam vessels that frequent the harbour
of the latter or that of Granton, it is now chiefly
used by bathers, and is the head-quarters of the
Forth swimming club.
It was opened on the 14th of October, ISzr,
and was afterwards tested by a weight of twentyone
tons placed upon the different points of
suspension. In 1840 it became the property of
the Alloa Steam Packet Company.
In 1838 Newhaven was erected into a quoad
sma parish, by the aathority of the Presbytery .of
Edinburgh, when a handsome church was erected
for the use of the community, from a design by
John Henderson of Edinburgh.
Near it, in Main Street, is the Free Church,
designed in good Gothic style by James A. Hamilton
of Edinburgh, an elegant feature in the locality,
but chiefly remarkable for the ministry of the late
Rev. Dr. Fairbairn, who died in January, 1879-
a man who came of a notable race, as the wellknown
engineers of the same name were his
cousins, as was also Principal Fairbairn of Glasgow.
He was ordained minister at Newhaven in 1838.
The great majority of his congregation were fishermen
and their families, who were always keenly
sensible of the mode in which he prayed for those
who were exposed to the dangers of the deep.
During his long pastorate these prayers were.a
striking feature in his ministrations, and Charles
Reade, while residing in the neighbourhood, frequently
attended Newhaven Free Church, and has,
in his novel of ? Christie Johnstone,? given a lifelike
portrait of his demeanour when administering
consolation, after a case of drowning.
Perhaps the most useful of thii amiable old
pastor?s philanthropic schemes was that of the
reconstruction of the Newhaven fishing fleet. He
perceived early that the boats in use were wholly
unsuited for modem requirements, and some years
before his death he propounded a plan for replacing
them by others having decks, bunks, and
other compartments. As soon as a crew came forward
with a portion of the money required, Dr. Fairbairn
had no difficulty in getting the remainder
advanced. Thirty-three large new boats, each
costing about Lzso, with as much more for fishing
gear, were the result of his kindly labours. They
have all been prosperous, and hundreds of the
inhabitants of Newhaven, when they stood around
his grave, remembered what they owed to the
large-hearted and prudent benevolence of this old
ministei.
In 1864 a local committee was appointed for
the purpose of erecting a breakwater on the west
side of the present pier, so as to form a harbour
for the fishing craft. Plans and specifications
were prepared by Messrs. Stevenson, engineers,
Edinburgh, and the work was estimated at the
probable cost of L;~,OOO ; and while soliciting aid
from the Board of Fisheries, the Board of Trade,
and the ,magistrates of Edinburgh, the fishermen
honourably and promptly volunteered to convey ?
all the stonework necessary in their boats or otherwise
from the quarry at? Qleensferry.
The fishermen of Newhaven rarely intermany
With the women of other fisher communities ; and
a woman of any other class, unacquainted with the
cobbling of nets, baiting and preparation of lines,
the occasional use of a tiller or oar, would be useless
as a fisherman?s wife; hence their continued
intermarriages cause no small confusion in the
nomenclature of this remarkable set of people.
The peculiar melodious and beautiful cry of the
Newhaven oyster-woman-the last of the quaint
old Edinburgh street cries-is well known ; and so
also is their costume ; yet, as in time it may become
a thing of the past, we may give a brief description
of it here. ?A cap of linen or cotton,?J says a
writer in Chambers?s EdinQurgh Journal, ?? surmounted
by a stout napkin tied below the chin,
composes the investiture of the hood ; the showy
structures wherewith other females are adorned
,
. ... REV. DR. FAIRBAIRN. 303 In 1820 there were landed at the old stone pier of Newhaven, John Baud and ...

Book 6  p. 303
(Score 0.25)

460 , MEMORIALS UP- EDINBURGH.
Balcarras, Lord, 208
Baldredus, Deacon of Lothian, 377
.Balfour, Sir James, 78
Baliol, 7
Ballantine, James, 253
Ballantyne, Abbot, 307, 313, 365, 406
Balmain, Miss, 123
Balmerinoch, Lord, 94,353
James, the Printer, 288
House of, Netherbow, 259
House of, Leith, 94, 161
Bane, Donald, 3
Bankton, Lord, 162
Bannatine, Thomai3, 256
Bannatyne, Sir William Macleod, 303 .
Sir Robert, 162
Barns, The, 136
Barrie, Thomas, 278
Barringer‘s Close, 254
Baseandyne, Thomas, the Printer, 258, 270
The House of, 270
Aleson, 258
Bassandyne’s Close, 271
Bath, Queen Mary’s, 76,308
Baxter’s Clmg, 165
Hall, 113
Beacon Fires, 51
Bearford‘s Parks, 191, 232
Beaton, Jamea, Archbishop, 37,40, 267,317
Cardinal, 45, 48, 49, 51, 56
Arms, 318
Portraits of Cardinal, 410
of Creich, 75 ‘
House of, 36, 317
House of, 266,317,452
Bedemen, 188, 394
Begbie’s Murder, 274
Belhaven, Lord, 316
Bell’s Millg Village of, 373
Bellenden, Lord, 303
Sir Lewia, 373
ESir William, 373
Bellevne, 274
House, 260
Bemard Street, Leith, 363, 367
Bernard’s Nook, 364, 368
Bertraham, William, Provost, 19
Berwick, 64
Beth’s or Bess Wynd, 84, 181, 182, 188, 233
Big Jack’s Close, Canongate, 290
Binnie’s Close, 363
Binning, Sir William, 208
Binny, Sir William, 352
Bishop’s Close, 253
Land, 253
Black, Dr, 323, 347
Turnpike, 79,246
Blackadder, Captain William, 81
Black Bull Inn, Old, 312
Blackfriars, Monastery of the, 31,37, 69,62, 63, 82,410
Wynd, 36, 40, 78, 101, 139,176, 191, 263-
Yards, 279
267, 317, 453
Blacklock, Dr, 165
Blair, Dr, 239
Hugh, 178
Street, 321
Blair’s Close, 138, 139
Blue Blanket, or Craftmen’e Banner, 1
402
Blue Gowns. 188
21, 79, 387,
Blyth’s Close, Castlehill, 77, 139, 146-167
Boisland, James, 136
Bombie, M‘Lellan of, 40, 130
Bore Stane, 124
Boreland, Thomas, 137
Borough Loch, 348
Borthwick, Lord, 266
Robert, 32
Castle, 176
Borthwick‘a Close, 243
Boswell, Dr, 140
Moor, 55, 86, 99,124, 165, 350
James, 241
his Residence, 160
is visited by Dr JohnBon, Id1
Mrs, 161
Boswell’s Court, 140
Bothwell, Patrick Hepburn, 1st Earl of, 26
Adam Hepbum, Earl of, 416
Patrick, 3d Earl of, 51
James, 4th Earl of, 73, 78,79, 226, 296, 341,
Francis Stewart, Earl of, 176, 222
Adam. See Orkney, Bishop of
Ann, daughter of the Bishop of Orkney, 227
Janet Kennedy, Lady, 321
375
433
Bowes, Marjorie, wife of John Knox, 257
Boyd’s Close, Canongate, 161, 312
Branding, the Punishment of, 454
Brechin, White Kirk of, 15
Breda, Town Clerk sent to Charles 11. at, 98
Brest, Queen Mary arrives safely at, 53
Bride’s Plenishing, Scottish, 213
Bristo Port, 331
British Linen Company, 274,296, 376
Broad Wynd, Leith, 363
Brodie, Deacon, 171, 237
Brodie’s Close, 169, 431
Broghall, Lord, 206
Brougham, Lord, the Birth-Place of, 329,’ 376
Broughton, Burgh of, 354, 372
Brown, A. of Greenbank, 140
Thomas, 144
Square, 145,331
Henry, 328
Brawn’s Close, Castlehill, 132, 138, 264
High Street, 225
Bruce, Robert the. See Rob& I.
Mr Fbbert, 87,203
of Binning, 231
Sir William, the Architect, 405, 408
Buccleuch, Laird of, 67,222, 230
Place, 348
Buchan, David Stuart, Earl of, 376 ... , MEMORIALS UP- EDINBURGH. Balcarras, Lord, 208 Baldredus, Deacon of Lothian, 377 .Balfour, Sir James, ...

Book 10  p. 499
(Score 0.25)

106 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Ravelston.
shady with wood, strikes from the Murrayfield Road
northward past the ancient and modem houses of
Ravelston. The latter is a large square-built mansion
; the former is quaint, gable-ended and crowstepped,
and almost hidden among high old walls
and venerable trees.
In the ? Burgh Records,? under date I 5 I I, the
Quarry at Ravelston appears to have been let to
Robert Cuninghame, by ? William Rynde, in the
name and behalf of John Rynde, clerk, prebender
of Ravelston,? with the consent of the magistrates
and council, patrons of the same.
On the old house are two lintels, the inscriptions
on which are traceable. The first date is doubtless
that of its erection ; the second of some alteration
or repair.
GF-NE QUID NIMIS. 1622. J B.
These are the initials of George Foulis of Ravelston
and Janet Bannatyne his wife. The other is
on a beautiful mantelpiece, now built up in the old
garden as a grotto, and runs thus, but in one long
line :-
The first over the enpance bears,
IM. AR. 1624. YE . ALSO . AS . LIVELY . STONES .
ARE . BUILT . AS , A SPIRITVAL . HOVSE.-I PETER.
The tomb of George Foulis of Ravelston was
in the Greyfriars Churchyard, and the inscription
thereon is given in Latin and English in Monteith?s
? Theatre of Mortality, 1704.?
He is styled that excellent man, George Foulis
of Ravelstoun, of the noble family of Colintoun,
Master of the king?s mint, bailie of the city of
Edinburgh, and sixteen years a Councillor. He
died on the 28th of May, 1633, in his sixty-fourth
year. The death and?burial are also recorded ol
?I his dearest spouse, Janet Bannatyne, with whom
he lived twenty-nine years in the greatest concord.?
It
was one of these daughters that Andrew Hill, a
musician, was tried for abducting, on the 4th of
September, 1654. One of the many specific
charges against this person, is that with reference
to the said Marian Foulis, daughter of Foulis of
Ravelston : ?he used sorceries and enchantments
-namely, roots and herbs-with which he boasted
that he could gain the affection of any woman he
pleased,? and which he used to this young lady.
?The jury acquitted him of sorcery, strange to record
in those times, ? as a foolish boaster of his skill
in herbs and roots for captivating women,? but
condemned him for the abduction ; and while the
judges delayed for fifteen days to pass sentence he
was so eaten and torn by vermin in prison that
he died !
In 1661 John Foulis of Ravelston was created
a baronet of Nova Scotia
The tomb records that he left six daughters.
In his notes to ?Waverley,? Sir Walter Scott refers
to the quaint old Scottish garden of Ravelston
House, with its terraces, its grass walks, and stone
statues, as having, in some measure, suggested to
him the garden of Tullyveolan.
The baronetcy of Ravelston was forfeited by the
second who bore it, Sir Archibald, who was beheaded
for adherence to Prince Charles, at Carlisle, in
I 746, and the lineal representatives of the line are
the Foulises, Baronets of Colinton, who represent
alike the families of Colinton, Woodhall, and
Ravelston.
The second baronet of the latter line, who was,
says Burke, the son of the first baronet?s eldest
son, George Primrose Foulis, by whom the lands of
Dunihac, were inherited in right of his mother
Margaret, daughter of Sir Archibald Primrose, and
mother of the first Earl of Rosebery, bore the
designation of Sir Archibald Primrose of Ravelston,
whose family motto was 27iure etjure.
In time the lands of Ravelston were acquired
by the Keith family, and in 1822, Alexander Keith
of Ravelston and Dunnottar, Knight-Marischal .of
Scotland, was created a baronet by George IV.
during his visit to Edinburgh. Dying without
issue in 1832, the title became extinct, and the
office of Knight-Marischal passed to the Earl of
Erroll as Lord High Constable of Scotland.
No. 43 Queen Street was the town residence of
the Keith family at the time of the royal visit.
A writer in BZackwood?s Magazine, on oldfashioned
Scottish society, refers to Mrs. Keith of
Ravelston, thus :-
?? Exemplary matrons of unimpeachable morals
were broad in speech and indelicate in thought,
without ever dreaming of actual evil. So the
respectable Mrs. Keith of Ravelston commissioned
Scott, in her old age, to procure a copy
of Mrs. Behn?s novels for her edification. Shk
was so shocked on her first attempt at a perusal
of them, that she told him to take ? his bonny book
away.? Yet, she observed, that when a young
woman she had heard them read aloud in a company
that saw no shadow of impropriety in them.
And whatever were the faults of old Scottish
society, with its sins of excess and its shortcomings
in refinement, there is no disputing that
its ladies were strictly virtuous, and that such slips
as that of the heroine of ? Baloo, my Boy,? were so
rare as to be deemed worthy of recording in rhymes.
So the reformation of manners was as satisfactory
as it was easy, since the foundations of the new
superstructure were sound.?
From Ravelston a rural road leads to Craigcrook
Castle, which for thirty-four years was the ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Ravelston. shady with wood, strikes from the Murrayfield Road northward past the ...

Book 5  p. 106
(Score 0.25)

The Luckenbooths
James VI., but no memories of him now remain,
save the alley called Byres? Close, and his tomb
in the west mall of the Greyfriars? churchyard, the
inscription on which, though nearly obliterated,
tells us that he was treasurer, bailie, and dean
of guild of Edinburgh, and died in 1629, in his
sixtieth year
The fourth floor of the tall Byres? Lodging was
occupied in succession by the Lords Coupar and
Lindores, by Sir James Johnston of Westerhall, and
finally by Lord Coalstoun, father of Christian Brown,
Countess of the Earl of Dalhousie, a general who
distinguished himself at Waterloo and elsewhere.
Before removing to a more spacious mansion on
the Castle Hill, Lord Coalstoun lived here in I 757,
and during that time an amusing accident occurred
to him, which has been the origin of more than one
excellent caricature.
?It was at that time the custom,? says the
gossipy author of ? Traditions of Edinburgh,?
U for advocates, and no less than judges, to dress
themselves in gown, wig, and cravat, at their own
houses, and to walk in a sort of state, with their
cocked hats in their hands, to the Parliament
House. They usually breakfasted early, and
when dressed would occasionally lean over their
parlour windows for a few minutes, before St.
Giles?s bell sounded a quarter to nine, enjoying the
morning air, and perhaps discussing the news of
the day, or the convivialities of the preceding
evening, with a neighbouring advocate on the
opposite side of the alley. It so happened that
one morning, while Lord Coalstoun was preparing
to enjoy his matutinal treat, two girls who lived on the
second floor above were amusing themselves with
a kitten, which they had swung over the window
by a cord tied round its middle, and hoisted for
some time up and down, till the creature was
getting desperate with its exertions. In this crisis
his lordship popped his head out of the window,
directly below that from which the kitten swung,
little suspecting, good easy man, what a danger
impended, wlien down came the exasperated
animal in full career upon his senatorial wig.
No sooner did the girls perceive what sort of
landing-place their kitten had found, than in theix
terror and surprise, they began to draw it up ; but
this measure was now too late, for along with the
animal up also came the judge?s wig, fixed full in
its determined claws ! His lordship?s surprise on
finding his wig lifted off his head was much
increased when, an looking up, he perceived it
dangling its way upwards, without any means
v i d k to him, by which its motions might be
accounted for. The astonishment, the dread, the
!we of the senator below-the half mirth, half
error of the girls above, together with the fierce
elentless energy on the part of puss between,
ormed altogether a scene to which language could
lot easily do justice. It was a joke soon explained
md pardoned, but the perpetrators did afterwards
;et many injunctions from their parents, never again
.o fish over the window, with such a bait, for
ionest men?s wigs.?
At the east end of the Luckenbooths, and facing
:he line of the High Street, commanding not only
t view of that stately and stirring thoroughfare,
xit also the picturesque vista of the Canongate
md far beyond it, Aberlady Bay, Gosford House,
md the hills of East Lothian, towered ? Creech?s
Land ?-as the tenement was named, according to
:he old Scottish custom-long the peculiar haunt
3f the Ziferati during the last century. In the first
Rat had been the shop of Allan Ramsay, where in
17 25 he established the first circulating library ever
known in Scotland; and for the Mercury?s Head,
which had been the sign of his first shop opposite
Niddry?s Wynd, he now substituted the heads of
Drummond of Hawthornden and Ben Jonson.
Of this establishment Wodrow writes :-? Profaneness
is come to a great height ! all the villainous,
profane, and obscene books of plays printed at
London by Curle and others, are got down from
London by Allan Ramsay, and let out for an easy
price to young boys, servant women of the better
sort, and gentlemen, and rice and obscenity dreadfully
propagated.?
It was the library thus stigmatised by sour old
Wodrow, that, according to his own statement, Sir
Walter Scott read with such avidity in his younger
years. The collection latterly contained upwards
of 30,000 volumes, as is stated by a note in ? Kay?s
Portraits.?
In 1748, says Kincaid, a very remarkable and
lawless attempt was made by the united London
booksellers and stationers to curb the increase of
literature in Edinburgh ! They had conceived an
idea, which they wished passed into law : ?That
authors or their assignees had a perpetual exclusive
right to their works; and if these could not be
known, the right was in the person who first published
the book, whatever manner of way they
became possessed of it.?
The first step was taken in 1748-twenty-three
years after Ramsay started his library-when an
action appeared before the Court of Session against
certain booksellers in Edinburgh and Glasgow,
which was decreed against the plaintiffs.* Ten
Falconer?s ?Decisions,? voL i ... Luckenbooths James VI., but no memories of him now remain, save the alley called Byres? Close, and his ...

Book 1  p. 154
(Score 0.25)

242 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street.
CHAPTER XXVIII.
THE HIGH STREET-(continued).
?The Salamander Land ?-The Old Fishmarket Close-Heriot?s Mansion-The Deemster?s Hocse-Borthwick?s Close-Lord Durie?s House-
Old Assembly Rooms-Edinburgh As.emblies, 17zc-53-Mes Nicky Blurray-Formalities of the Balls-Ladies? Fashions-Assemblies
Removed to Hell?s Wpd-Hair Srreet and Hunter?s Square-Kennedy?s Close-George Buchanan?s Death-Niddry?r Wynd- Nicol
Edwards? House-A Case of Homicide in 1597-A Quack Doctor -Livingstone?s Liberty.
IN describing the closes and wynds which diverge
from the great central street of the old city on the
south we must resume at the point where the great
fire of 1824 ceased, a conflagration witnessed by
Sir Walter Scott, who says of it :-
?? I can conceive no sight more grand or terrible
than to see those lofty buildings on fire from top to
bottom, vomiting out flames like a volcano from
every aperture, and finally crashing down one after
another into a* abyss of fire, which resembled
nothing but hell ; for there were vaults of wine and
spirits, which sent up huge jets of flames wherever
they were called into activity by the fall of these
massive fragments.?
?( The Salamander Land,? an enormous black
tenement, so named from its having survived or
escaped the fires that raged eastward and westward
of it, and named also from that curious propensiv,
which is so peculiarly Scottish, for inventive
and appropriate sobriquets, was removed to
make way for the Police Chambers and the
Cournnt office, in the latter of which James Hannay,
the author of ?Satire and Satirists? and several
other works, and Joseph Robertson, the wellknown
Scottish antiquary, conducted the editorial
duties of that paper, the first editor of which
was Daniel Defoe. ?We have been told,? says
Wilson, writing of the old tenement in question,
?that this land was said to have been the residence
of Daniel Defoe while in Edinburgh ; the tradition,
however, is entirely unsupported by other testimony.?
Descending the street on the south, as we have
done on the north, we shall peep into each of the
picturesque alleys that remain, and recall those
.which are no more, with all the notables who once
.dwelt therein, and summon back the years, the
men, and the events that have passed away.
Through ?? the Salamander Land ? a spacious
archway led into the Old Fishmarket Close,
where, qrevious to the great fire, an enormous pile
of buildings reared their colossal front, with that
majestic effect produced now by the back of the
Royal Exchange and of James?s Court, and where
now the lofty tenements of the new police office
stand.
To this alley, wherein the cannon shot of Kirkaldy
fell with such dire effect during the great siege
of 1573, Moyse tells us the plague was brought, on
the 7th of May, 1588, by a servant woman from St.
Johnston.
Within the Fishmarket Close was the mansion of
George Heriot, the royal goldsmith, wherein more
recently resided President Dundas, ?? father of Lord,
Melville, a thorough bon vivant of the old claretdrinking
school of lawyers.?
Here, too, dwelt, we learn from Chambers?s
? Traditions,? the Deemster, a finisher of the law?s
last sentence, a grim official, who annually drew his
fee from the adjacent Royal Bank; and one of the
last of whom, when not officiating at the west end
of the Tolbooth or the east end of the Grassmarket,
eked out his subsistence by cobbling shoes,
Borthwick?s Close takes its name from the noble
and baronial hmily of Borthwick of that ilk, whose
castle, a few miles south from the city, is one of
the largest and grandest examples of the square
tower in Scotland. In the division 6f the city in
October, 1514, the third quarter is to be-according
to the Burgh records-? frae the Lopelie Stane
with the Cowgaitt, till Lord Borthwick?s Close,?
assigned to ?? Bailie Bansun,? with his sergeant
Thomas Amott, and his quartermaster Thomas
Fowler.
The property on the middle of the east side of
the close belonged to one of the Lords Napier of
Merchiston, but to which there is no record to
show; and it is n9t referred to in the minute will
of the inventor of logarithms, who died in 1617.
A new school belonging to Heriot?s Hospital
occupies the ground that intervenes between this
alley and the old Assembly Close.
On that site stood the town mansion of Lord
Dune, President of the Court of Session in 1642,
the hero of the ballad of ? Christie?s Will,? and
according thereto the alleged victim of the Earl of
Traquair, as given in a very patched ballad of the
Border Minstrelsy, beginning :-
? Traquair he has ridden up Chapelhope,
And sae has he doon by the Greymare?s Tail ;
Till he spiered for Christie?s Will?
But he never stinted his light gallop,
And hence for a time the alley bore the name of
Lord Dune?s Close.
On the site of his mansion, till its destruction by
the fire of 1824, stood the Old Assembly Rooms ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street. CHAPTER XXVIII. THE HIGH STREET-(continued). ?The Salamander Land ?-The ...

Book 2  p. 242
(Score 0.25)

North Bridge.7 . JAMES SUTHERLAND. 363 #
4 I
say nothing of the cost of new plants, so difficult
to procure in those non-travelling times.
In the spring of 1689, during the siege of the
Castle, a woeful mishap befell him. For certain
strategic reasons it had been thought necessary by
Sir John Lanier and other leaders to drain the
North Loch, and, as the water thereof ran through
the Botanic Gardens, as it had done of old through
that of the Hospital, it came to pass that for
several days the place was completely inundated,
and when left dry was found to be covered with
mud, and the rubbish of the city drains, so that
nearly all the delicate and costly plants collected
by Balfour, by Sibbald, and by Sutherland, were
destroyed ; and it cost the latter and his assistants
nearly a whole season to clear the ground, and in
his distress he appealed to the Privy Council.
That body considered his memorial, and the
good services he was rendering, ?whereby not only
the young physicians, apothecaries, and chirurgeons,
but also the nobility and gentry, are taught
the knowledge of herbs, and also a multitude of
plants, shrubs, and trees, are cultivated, which were
never known in this nation before, and .more
numerous,? continues the Privy Council Record,
?than in any other garden in Britain, as wee1 for
the?honour of the place as for the advantage -of the
people.? They ?therefore awarded him a pension
of 650 yearly out of the fines accruing to them.
Encouraged by this, and further aided by the
Lords of the Scottish Treasury, James Sutherland,
in 1695, extended his operations to a piece of
ground lying between the porch of Holyrood
palace and the old road to Restalrig, near where
the great dial stands now, where in that year he
raised ?a good crop of melons,? and many ? other
curious annuals, fine flowers, and other plants not
ordinary in this country.? In a few years he hoped
to rival London, if supplied with means to procure
?reed hedges to divide, shelter, and lay the
ground ?lown,? and warm, and a greenhouse and
store to preserve oranges, myrtles, and lemons,
with other tender plants and fine exotics in winter.?
He entreated the Lords of Council to further aid
him, ?? without which the work must cease, and the
petitioner suffer in reputation and interest, what he
is doing being more for the honour of the nation,
and the ornament and use of his majesty?s palace,
than his own private behoof.?
This place remained still garden ground till
about the time of Queen Victoria?s first visit, when
the new north approach to the palace was run
through it.
James Sutherland is supposed to have died about
1705, when his collection of Greek, Roman,
Scottish, Saxon, and English coins and medals, was
purchased by the Faculty of Advocates, and is
still preserved in their library.
The old Physic Garden, which had been his
own, eastward of the bridge, continued to be used
as such till the time when the chair of botany was?
occupied by Dr. John Hope, who was born at
Edinburgh in 1725, and was the grandson of Sir
Alexander Hope, Lord Rankeillor. On the 13th
April, 1761, he was appointed king?s botanist for
Scotland, and elected a few days after, by the
town council, Professor of materia medica, and
of botany, He was the first who introduced into
Scotland the Linnean system; and in 1768 he
resigned the professorship of materia medica, that,
in the end, he might devote himself exclusively to
botany, and his exertions in promoting the study of
it in Edinburgh were attended with the most
beneficial results. His immediate predecessor,
Dr. Alston, was violently opposed to the Linnean
system, against which he published an essay in
?751.
It was in the humble garden near the Trinity
College that he taught his students, and, for the.
purpose of exciting emulation among them, he
annually, towards the close of the session, gave a
beautiful medal to the student who had displayed
most diligence and zeal in his studies. It was
inscribed-? A cedro hyysopum usque. J. HOPE, Bot.
Pro$, dal . . . ?I In Kay?s portraits we have a clever
etching of the Professor superintending hisgardeners,
in a roquelaure and cocked hat. Besides some
useful manuals for facilitating the acquisition of
botany by his students, two valuable dissertations
by him, the one on the ??Rhtzun Palmaturn,? and
the other on the ?? Fer& AssafkMu,? were published
by him in the ?Philosophical Transactions.?
Finding that the ancient garden was unsuited to
advancing science, he used every exertion to have it
removed to a more favourable situation, To further
his objects the Lords of the Treasury granted
him, says Arnot, ??;GI,~~o IS. z+d. to make it, and
for its annual support the sum of A69 3s. At the
same time the magistrates and town council granted
the sum of A25 annually for paying the rent of
the ground.?
The place chosen was on the west side of Leith
Walk. It was laid out under the eye of Professor
Hope, who died in November, 1786. After the
formation of the new garden, the old one was completely
abandoned about 1770, and continued. to
be a species of desolate waste ground, enclosed by
a rusty iron railing, with here and there an old
tree dying of neglect and decay, till at length
innovations swept it away. ... Bridge.7 . JAMES SUTHERLAND. 363 # 4 I say nothing of the cost of new plants, so difficult to procure in ...

Book 2  p. 363
(Score 0.25)

350 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Roslin
minute decorations of the latest species of the
Tudor age. It is impossible to designate the architecture
of this building by any given or familiar
term, for the variety and eccentricity of its parts
are not to be defined by any words of common
acceptation.?
Though generally spoken of as if it were the chapel
of the adjacent castle, this most costly edifice was
erected as a collegiate church, to be ministered to
by a provost, six prebendaries, and two choristers.
Captain Slezer states that ? there goes a tradition
that, before the death of any of the family of
Roslin this chapel appears to be all on fire ; ? and it
was this brief line of that most prosaic writer which
suggested the noble ballad of Scott: The legend
is supposed to be of Norse origin, imported by the
Earls of Orkney to Roslin, as the tomb-fires of
the North are mentioned in most of the Sagas. The
chapel was desecrated by a mob in I 688, anQ though
partially repaired by General St. Clair about 1720,
for more than a century and a half it remained
windowless and mouldy. On Easter Tuesday, 1862,
it was repaired, and opened for service by the clergy
of the Scottish Episcopal communion.
In this building we have the common stock legend
of one of the finest pieces of workmanship beingcompletedbyanapprentice
duringtheabsence of the master,
who in rage and mortification puts him to death.
The famous Apprentice?s Pillar is called by Slezer
the ? Prince?s Pillar,? as the founder had the title
of Prince of Orkney, This pillar is the wreathed
one, so markedly distinct from all the others, and
was most probably the ?? Master?s Pillar ; ? but
among the grotesque heads, it was not difficult for
old Annie Wilson, the guide, who figures in the
Gentleman?s Magazi?zc for 1817, to find those of
the irate master, the terrified apprentice, and his
sorrowing mother.
It was from the MSS. of Father Hay, in the
Advocates? Library, that the striking legend of the
Sinclairs being buried in their armour was taken
by Sir Walter. Scott. He wrote at the commencement
of the eighteenth century, and was present at
the opening of the tomb, wherein lay Sir Wdliam
Sinclair, who, he says, was interred in 1650, on
the day the battle of Dunbar was fought ; and he
thus describes the body :-
? He was lying in his armour, with a red velvet
cap on his head, on a flat stone. Nothing was
spoiIed except a piece of the white furring that
uyent round the cap, and answered to the hinder
part of the head. All his predecessors were buried
in the same manner in their armour. Late Roslin,
my gud father, was the first that was buried in a
coffin, against the sentiments of King James VII.,
who was then in Scotland, and several other
persons well versed in antiquity, to whom my
mother would not hearken, thinking it beggarly to
be buried after that manner, The great expense
she was at in burying her husband occasioned the
sumptuary Acts which were made in the next Parliament.?
This refers to the Act ? restraining the
exorbitant expense of marriages, baptisms, and
burials,? passed in 1681 at Edinburgh.
In a vault near the north wall, there lie, under
a flag-stone, ten barons of Roslin, buried before
1690, according to the ? New Statistical Account.?
In the west wall of the north aisle is the tomb
of George, fourth Earl of Caithness, one of the
peers who sat on the trial of Bothwell, and who
died at an advanced age. It bears the following
inscription :-
? H I ~ JACET NOBILE AC POTIS DOMINUS GEORGIUS,
QUONDAM COMES CATHANENSIS, DOMINUS SINCLAR,
OBIIT EDINBURCI g DIE MENSIS SEPTEMBRIS, ANNO
DOMINI 1582.?
It is supposed that an authentic history of th;s
family-one of the most remarkable in the three
Lothians-might throw much light on the history
of masonry in Scotland. Among the MSS. in
Father Hay?s collection there is one which acknowledges
in remarkable terms the prerogatives
of the Roslm family in reference to the Maso&
craft.
?The deacons, masters, and freemen of the
masons and hammermen within the Kingdom of
Scotland ? assert ?? that for as mickle as from adage
to adage it has been observed amongst us and our
predecessors that the Lauds of Roslin have ever
bein patrons and protectors of us and our privileges,
like as our predecessors has obeyed, reverenced,
and acknowledged them as patrons and protectors,
whereof they had letters of protection and other
rights granted by his majesty?s most noble progenitors.?
The MS. then proceeds to record that
the documents referred to had perished with the
family muniments in some conflagration ; but that
they acknowledge the continuance of the Masonic
Patronage in the House of Sinclair. The MS. is
dated 1630, and signed thus :-? The Lodge of
Dundee - Robert Strachane, master - Andrew
Wast and DaI-id Whit, masters in Dundee; with
our hands att the pen, led be the Notar, undersubscrivand
at our commands, because we cannot
writ.?
At least twenty-two special masons? marks are
visible on the stones at Roslin.
The edifice has attached to it what is said to
have been an under chapel, although it is on the
JUSTICIARIUS HEREDITORIUS DIOCESIS CATHANENSIS QUI ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Roslin minute decorations of the latest species of the Tudor age. It is impossible to ...

Book 6  p. 350
(Score 0.25)

278 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith
named themselves the ? Friends of the People,?
were alarming the authorities by threatening to
hold a national cqnvention in Edinburgh, and to
seize the Castle, the seamen in Leith seemed disposed
to complicate affairs by absolutely refusing
to go to sea unless they received a considerable
advance of wages. A meeting was held for the
purpose, if possible, of accommodating matters, and
it was attended by the Provost, the Sheriff, the two
Bailies of Leith, and a number of ship-masters and
merchants belonging to that place; and, after a
lengthened discussion, the following terms were
offered to the banded seamen of Leith, who were
then ? on strike : ?-
I. The voyage to London, instead of three
guineas as hitherto, to beA4 15s. in full of wages,
loading or unloading.
11. The voyage to Hull &3 in full.
111. To Newcastle 10s. in full.
IV. All other runs to be in proportion to the
above.
V, The monthly wages to beAz, instead of 30s. ;
the seamen to pay Greenwich money,.and be at
liberty to pay poor?s money to the Trinity Hospital
at option; but if omitting to pay, to derive no
benefit from the funds of that establishment.
. VI. The wives at home to get 10s. monthly out
of their husband?s wages.
VII. The latter to continue until the vessels are
discharged by the crews, and to be in full of all
demands.
These arrangements, having met with the warm
approbation of the merchants and shipmasters of
Leith, were presented to the seamen for acceptance,
and they were required and enjoined ? immediately
to return to their duty, and behave in the most
peaceable manner, with certification that ;f, after
this date, they should be found assembling in any
tumultuous manner, or stop or impede any person
whatever in the execution of his duty, they would
be prosecuted and punished in terms of law.?
The proffered terms proved agreeable to the seamen,
who at once returned to their duties, leaving
the magistrates free to deal with the ? Friends of
the People,? many of whom were arrested, and tried
before the Court of Justiciary.
In 1805 five vessels sailed for the whale fishery,
the largest number that had ever sailed from Leith
in one year.
In 1816 there arrived in the port two vessels,
each having a rather remarkable freight. They
were entirely laden with broken musket-barrels,
locks, sword-blades, and other warlike relics of
the memorable retreat from Moscow, all of which
were sent to the iron-works at Cramond, there to
be turned into ploughshares, harrows, spades, and
other implements for the tillage of the earth.
In the same year the Scots Magazim records
the pursuit of six smuggling luggers by one of the
king?s ships in the Roads, adding, ?? one of these
luggers is armed with sixteen guns, and is com.
manded by an authorised British subject, who has
expressed his determination not to be taken, and to
a revenue cutter he would be found a dangerous
enemy, though he would not stand long against a
king?s ship.?
In the year 1820 the Edinburgh or Leith Seaman?s
Friendly Society was instituted. The Ship
masters? Widows? Fund had been established fifteen
years before.
In 1849 the tonnage of the growing port of
Leith increased to 22,499.
The tonnage dues on vessels, and. shore dues,
outwards and inwards,amounted toA24,566 6s. I Id.
The aggregate revenue accruing to the docks was
Lzg,209 10s. IIBd, while the Custom House
returns for duties levied in the port was A566,312.
In 1881 we find the number and tonnage of vessels
arriving and sailing from Leith to stand thus :-
Sailing vessels arriving, 1,705, tonnage 262,871 ;
departing, 1,702, tonnage 259,143. Steam vessels
arriving, 2,695, tonnage 711,282 ; departing, 2,695,
tonnage 712,056.
The chief articles of export are coal and iron,
and the appliances for placing these on board ship
are of the most approved kind. In 1881 there were
127,207 tons of pig-iron shipped. The chief imports
are grain and flour; thus, 1,135,127 quarters of
grain and 238,313 bags of flour were landed at
Leith, and the importation of guano, wood, flax,
and hemp was very considerable, according to the
Scotsman for that year. Therevenue of the port
in 1881 was &37,491.
In 1880 the company owning the Arrow Line
put on a number of steamers direct between Leith .
and New York ; and the venture has been so successful
that now there is regular communication
between the former place and America every fortnight.
By the prosperity that has come with the new
docks, which we shall presently describe, Leith can
now boast of a population of 58,000 souls, being an
increase on the last decade of 13,000.
We have shown how, from small beginnings and
under many depressing influences, the shipping and
the tonnage of Leith has steadily increased, till the
traffic has become great indeed.
Now steam vessels, either from Leith or Granton,
ply to Hamburg, Rotterdam, Antwerp, Amsterdam,
Bremerhaven, Copenhagen, Dantzig, Dunkirk,
Ghent, regularly ; to London, four times weekly ; ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith named themselves the ? Friends of the People,? were alarming the authorities by ...

Book 6  p. 278
(Score 0.25)

THE ROYAL INFIRMARY. 299 h6rmary Street]
students to witness surgical operations. The Infirmary
has separate wards for male and female
patients, and a ward which is used as a Lock
hospital ; but even in ordinary periods the building
had become utterly incompetent for the service
of Edinburgh, and during the prevalence of an epidemic
afforded but a mere fraction of the required
accommodation, and hence the erection of its magnificent
successor, to which we shall refer elsewhere.
The Earl of Hopetoun, in 1742, and for the last
twenty-five years of his life, generously contributed
A400 per annum to the institution when it was
young and struggling. In 1750 Dr. Archibald Kerr
of Jamaica bequeathed to it an estate worth
E218 11s. 5d. yearly; and five years afterwards
the Treasury made it a gift of jG8,ooo j yet it has
never met with the support from Government. that
it ought to have done, and which similar institutions
in London receive.
But the institution owed most of its brilliant
success to Lord Provost Drummond. Among his
associates in this good work he had the honoured
members of the Colleges of Physicians and Surgeons
in Edinburgh, ever first in all works of goodness and
charity; and the first Dr. Munro, Professor of
Anatomy, was singularly sanguine of the complete
success of the undertaking.
That portion of the house which was founded by
the Earl of Cromarty was opened for the reception
of patients in December, 1741. The theatre described
was made to serve the purposes also of a
chapel, and twelve cells on the ground floor, for cases
of delirium fremens, being found unnecessary, were
converted into kitchens and larders, &c. The
grounds around the house, consisting of two acres,
and long bounded on- the south by the city wall,
were laid out into grass walks for the convalescents,
and ultimately the house was amply supplied with
water from the city reservoir.
In the years 1743-4 the sick soldiers of the
regiments quartered in the Castle were accommodated
in the Infirmary; and in the stormy
period of the '45 it was of necessity converted into
a great military hospital for the sick and wounded
troops of both armies engaged at Prestonpans and
elsewhere ; and in I 748 the surgeon-apothecaries,
who since 1729 had given all manner of medical
aid gratis, were feed for the first time. Wounded
from our armies in Flanders have been sent there
for treatment.
In 1748, after paying for the site, building,
furniture, &c., the stock of the institution amounted
to &5,00o; and sick patients not wishing to be resident
were invited to apply for advice on Mondays
and Fridays, and were in cases of necessity
admitted as supernumeraries at the rate of 6d. per
day. About this time there was handed over an
Invalid Grant made by Government to the city,
on consideration of sixty beds being retained for
the use of all soldiers who paid 4d. per diem for
accommodation, This sum, &3, 2 70, was fully made
over to the managers, who, for some time afteqfound
themselves called upon to entertain so many military
patients, that a guard had to be mounted on
the house to enforce order; and liberty was obtained
to deposit all dead patients in Lady Yester's
churchyard, on the opposite side of the street.
Hitherto the physicians had, with exemplary
fidelity, attended the patients in rotation j but in
January, 1751, the managers on being empowered
by the general court of contributors, selected Dr.
David Clerk and Dr, Colin Drummond, physicians
in ordinary, paying them the small honorarium of
;E30 annually.
The University made offer to continue its
services, together with those of the ordinary physicians,
which offer was gladly accepted; and
though the practice fell into disuse, they were long
continued in monthly rotation. To the option of
the two ordinary physicians was left the visiting
of the patients conjointly, or by each taking his
own department. "It was their duty to sign the
tickets of admission and dismission. In case of any
unforeseen occurrences or dangerous distemper, the
matron or clerks were permitted to use this authe
rity ; the physicians en their amval, however, were
expected to append their signatures to the tickets.
The good and economy of the house from the first,
induced the managers to appoint two of their
number to visit the institution once every month,
who were enjoined to inquire how far the patients
were contented with their treatment, and to note
what they found inconsistent with the ordinary
regulations : their remarks to be entered in a book
of reports, to come under review at the first meeting
of managers." (" Journal of Antiq.," VoL 11.)
In 1754 some abuses prevailed in the mode of
dispensing medicines to the out-door patients,
detrimental to the finances ; an order was given for
a more judicious and sparing distribution. In the
following pear application was made to the Town
Council, as well as to the Presbytery of the Church,
to raise money at their several churches to provide
a ward for sick servants-which had been found
one of the most useful in the house. From its
first institution the ministers of the city had, in
monthly rotation, conducted the religious services ;
but in the middle of 1756 the managers appointed
aregular chaplain, whose duty it was to preach
every Monday in the theatre for surgical operations. ... ROYAL INFIRMARY. 299 h6rmary Street] students to witness surgical operations. The Infirmary has separate ...

Book 4  p. 299
(Score 0.25)

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