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90 MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH.
faith unchanged, and revisit the Scottish capital every three years. He committed his
children, whom he left behind, to the care of the Earl of Mar and others of his most
trusty nobles, and took his departure for England on the 5th of April 1603.
The accession of James to the English throne produced, at the time, no other change
on Edinburgh than the removal of the Court and some of the chief nobility to London.
The King continued to manifest a lively interest in his ancient capital ; in 1608 he wrote
to the magistrates, guarding them in an unwonted manner againet countenancing any
interference with the right of the citizens to have one of themselves chosen to fill the ofice
of Provost. In the following year, he granted them duties on every tun of wine, for sustaining
the dignity of the civic rulers; he also empowered the Provost to have a sword
borne before him on all public occasions, and gave orders that the magistrates should be
provided with gowns, similar to those worn by the Aldermen of London.
It is very characteristic of King James, that, not content with issuing his royal mandate
on this important occasion, he forwarded them two ready-made gowns as patterns,
lest the honourable Corporation of the Tailors of Edinburgh should prove unequal to the
At length, after an absence of fourteen years, the King intimated his gracious intention
of honouring the capital of his ancient kingdom with a visit. He accordingly arrived there
on the 16th of May 1617, and was received at the West Port by the magistrates in their
official robes, attended by the chief citizens habited in velvet. The town-clerk delivered
a most magnificent address, wherein he blessed God that their eyes were once more permitted
(( to feed upon the royal countenance of our‘ true phenix, the bright star of our
northern firmament. . . . . Our sun (the powerful adamant of our wealth), by whose
removing from our hemisphere we were darkened; deep sorrow and fear possessed our
hearts, The very hills and groves, accustomed before to be refreshed with the dew of your
Majesty’s presence, not putting on their wonted apparel, but with pale looks, representing
their misery for the departure of their royal King. . . . A King in heart as upright
as David, wise as Solomon, and godlie as Josias 1 ”
In like eloquent strains the orator proceeds through a long address, after which the King
and nobility were entertained at a sumptuous banquet, where the City presented his Majesty
with the sum of ten thousand merks, in double golden angels, tendered to him in a gilt
basin of silver.a
The King had been no less anxious than the citizens (‘to let the nobles of Ingland
knaw that his cuntrie was nothing inferior to them in anie respect.” By his orders the
Palace was completely repaired and put in order, and the Chapel “ decorit with organis,
and uthir temporal1 policie,” while a ship laden with wines, was sent before him ‘‘ to lay in
the cavys of his Palicis of Halyruidhous, and uther partis of his resort.”
A Parliament was held in Edinburgh on this occasion, wherein the King availed himself
of the popular feelings excited by his presence, to secure the first steps of his favourite
project for restoring Episcopal government to the Church.
The King at length bade farewell to his Scottish subjects in September 1617, and
little occurred to disturb the tranquillity of Edinburgh during the remainder of his
reign.
duty.’
Council Register, Sept. 7th, 1609. &itland, p. 60. 8 Hist. of Jamee the Sext., p. 395.

... MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH. faith unchanged, and revisit the Scottish capital every three years. He committed ...

Book 10 p. 98
(Score 0.24)

264 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street.
before them with licht torches,? on which Powrie,
as if consciencestricken, exclaimed to Wilson,
? Jesu ! Pate ! What na gate is this we are ganging
?
About 1780-9 the cardinal?s house was the
residence of Bishop Abernethy Drummond, whom
we have ,noticed as the theological opponent of
Bishop Hay, and hither he must have brought his
I trow it be not gude.?
wife, -the -heiress of
Hawthornden. This
divine occupied a high
place in the society of
his time, and was particularly
active in obtaining
the repeal of
the penal statbtes
against his church in
Scotland. Latterly the
house was divided, like
all its neighbours, into
a multitude of small
lodgings, where squalid
poor folks-chiefly Irish
-pined on parochial
allowance, and slept on
beds of straw mingled
with rags-?the terrible
exponent of our peculiar
phasis of civilisation.?
But very different was
the aspect of society
at the time when the
Edinburgh Gazette of
19th April, 1703, put
forth the following advertisement
:-
?There is a boarding-
school to be set up
in Blackfriars Wynd, in
/------
the 1st of August, 1877, the total expenditure was
A442,621 18s. 6d. ; receipts, A265,599 18s. gd. j
the unrecovered outlay, A177,ozz os. gd. ; and
the amount to the credit of the sinking fund account,
g6,752 14s. Iod.
Blackfriars Wynd was among the places ? improved;?
the east side was swept away and replaced
by buildings in the old Scottish style, one
CARDINAL BEATON?S nousE.
Robinson?s Land, upon the west side of the Wynd,
near the middle thereof, in the first door of the
stair leading to the said land, against the latter end
of May, or first of June next, when young ladies
and gentlemen may have all sorts of breeding that
is to be had in any part of Britain, and great care
taken of their conversation.?
Nearly all that we have described here has
been swept away by the trustees of the Edinburgh
Improvement Act, and the ancient Wynd is now
designated Blackfriars Street. By that Act, passed
in 1867, a tax was imposed, not exceeding fourpence
:n the pound, for a period of twenty years, and the
trustees were authorised to borrow, on the security
of that assessment, a total sum of g;35o,ooo. At
of which is the Ediuburgh
Industrial School,
instituted in July, 1847;
but, by a somewhat
shartsighted policy perhaps,
the west was left
untouched,andthe footway
there was found to
be so far below the
level of the street as
to necessitate its being
fenced off from
the camage-way by an
open railing, thus imparting
an incomplete
aspect to the thoroughfare.
Between these
old houses on the west
an extensive area was
thrown open betwyeen
Cant?s and Dickson?s
Closes, thus greatly enhancing
the value of
the sites, but at the
sacrifice of much that
belonged to the past
and the picturesque.
The United Industrial
School in Blackfriars
Street exhibits in
a manner perhaps unexampled,
the successful
application and development of that great
problem, a comprehensive unsectarian system of
national education. To those to whom its name
may be scarcely known it must appear that there
is surely something striking in the character of a
ragged school among whose founders were such
men as the Earls of Minto and Elgin, Lords
Dunfermline, Murray, and Jeffrey, Sir William G.
Craig, Adam Black, and William Chambers.
In 1847 Dr. Guthrie first drew attention to the
condition of the juvenile beggars of Edinburgh,
and his noble proposal to establish a ragged school
to be supported by ? Christians of all denominations
and parties,? was eagerly taken up. The lines
upon which the suggestion was practically carried

... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street. before them with licht torches,? on which Powrie, as if ...

Book 2 p. 264
(Score 0.24)

ROBERT BURNS, 107
in the rooms of Stewart, Blair, or Robertson. . , .
But Edinburgh offered tables and entertainers of a
less staid character, when the glass circulated with
greater rapidity, when wit flowed more freely, and
when there were neither high-bred ladies to charm
conversation within the bounds of modesty, nor
serious philosophers nor grave divines to set a
limit to the licence of speech or the hours of
enjoyment. To those companions, who were all
of the better classes,
the levities of the rustic
poet?s wit and humour
were as welcome as
were the tenderest of
his narratives to the
accomplished Duchess
of Gordon or the beautiful
Miss Burnet of
Monboddo ; theyraised
a social roar not at all
classic, and demanded
and provoked his sallies
of wild humour, or
indecorous mirth, with
as much delight as he
had witnessed among
the lads of Kyle,
when, at mill or forge,
his humorous sallies
abounded as the ale
flowed.?
While in Edinburgh
Bums was the frequent
and welcome guest ot
John Campbell, Precentor
of the Canongate
Church, a famous
amateur vocalist in his
time, though forgotten
now ; and to him Bums
applied for an introduction
to Bailie Gentle,
After a stay of six months in Edinburgh, Burns ? set out on a tour to the south of Scotland, accompanied
by Robert Ainslie, W.S. ; but elsewhere we
shall meet him again. Opposite the house in which
he dwelt is one with a very ancient legend, BZissit.
be. th. bra. in, aZZ. His .gz)Xs. nm. and. euir. In
1746 this was the inheritance of Martha White,
only child of a wealthy burgess who became a
banker in London. She? became the wife of
to the end that he might accord his tribute to the
memory of the poet, poor Robert Fergusson, whose
grave lay in the adjacent churchyard, without a
stone to mark it. Bailie Gentle expressed his
entire concurrence with the wish of Bums, but
said that ?he had no power to grant permission
without the consent of the managers of the Kirk
funds.?
?Tell them,? said Burns, ?it is the Ayrshire
ploughman who makes the request.? The authority
was obtained, and a promise given, which we
believe has been sacredly kept, that the grave
should remain inviolate.
2s CLOSE*
Charles niIlth Earl of
Kincardine, and afterwards
Earl of Elgin,
?? undoubted heir male
and chief of d l the
Bruces in Scotland,?
as Douglas records.
The countess, who died
in 1810, filled, with
honour to herself, the
office of governess to
the unfortunate Princess
Charlotte of Wales.
One of the early
breaches made in the
vicinity of the central
thoroughfare of the city
was Bank Street, on
tlie north (the site of
Lower Baxter?s Close),
wherein was the shop
of two eminent cloth
merchants, David
Bridges and Son, which
became the usual resort
of the whole Ziteraii of
the city in its day.
David Bridges junior
had a strongly developed
bias towards
literary studies, and,
according to the memoirs
of Professor WiE
son, was dubbed by the Blackwood nits, (? Director-
General of the Fine Arts.? His love for these and
the drama was not to be controlled by his connection
with mercantile business ; and while the sefiior
partner devoted himself to the avocations of trade in
one part of their well-known premises, the younger
was employed in adorning a sort of sanctum, where
one might daily meet Sir Walter Scott and his
friend Sir Adam Ferguson (who, as a boy, had
often sat on the knee of David Hume), Professor
Tradition points to the window on the immediate right (marked *)
as that of the mom occupied by Burns.

... BURNS, 107 in the rooms of Stewart, Blair, or Robertson. . , . But Edinburgh offered tables and ...

Book 1 p. 107
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BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES. 385
rank of Captain in the 44th, or Lee’s Regiment of Foot. With this corps he
was present at the affair of Prestonpans in 1745 ; and was captured by the
forces of the Chevalier. Along with the other prisoners of war, he was carried
to Edinburgh, where the officers were liberated on parole not to depart from
the city nor correspond with the enemies of the Prince. After the suppression
of the Rebellion, Mr. Cochrane for some time held the office of Deputy-Governor
of the Isle of Man, under the Duke of Atholl. On the resignation of his brother
in 1761, he was appointed one of the Commissioners of Excise; and, three years
subsequently, was advanced to the Eoard of Customs.
Mr. Cochrane resided at Dalry, a small property to the west of Edinburgh,
where he died unmarried, on the 2d October 1788. The etching of him in the
Print is very characteristic. He always walked with his gold-headed staff in
his hand-his head inclining a little downwards ; and he wore black silk-velvet
straps, instead of garters, which added very much to his military appearance.
He was greatly respected by the other members of the Board, as well as by all
who knew him.
The centre figure, COMMISSIONER EDGAR, from whom a beggar is
soliciting alms, was another old bachelor, but of habits very different from the
former. His rumoured parsimony induced Ray to give the stern expression of
countenance with which he is portrayed in the etching. This charge was
probably greatly exaggerated, as the erection of a spire to the church of Lasswade,
entirely from his own funds, was certainly no indication of miserly feeling;
yet he was at no pains to discountenance the general opinion. Indeed, he
rather seemed to delight in keeping up the impression; and, as if more
thoroughly to manifest his unsociable disposition to all the world, he had a
carriage built with only one seat, in which he used to drive to and from the
city. This vehicle he was pleased to denominate his “ sulky.”
great Whig ancestors, being the grandson of Sir John Cochrane of Ochiltree, second son of the first
Earl, who, having fled to Holland froin the tyranny of Charles II., came over with Argyll in 1686,
and waa subsequently taken and brought to the Tolbooth of Edinburgh, ignominiously conducted by
the common hangman, but eventually parzoned by James VII. His grandmother was a daughter
of Sir William Strickland of Boynton, who had been one of Cromwell’s Lords of Parliament. It is
therefore little to be wondered at that he was himself a Whig, and zealously attached to the house
of Hanover. We have derived some traditions respecting his family in 1745 from the daughter of
one who was then his lady’s waiting-maid. On the Highlanders approaching the city, Mr. Cochrane
thought proper to remove to the country, and his lady (the celebrated and lovely Jean Stewart of
Tononce) was just preparing to follow him, when the Prince’s army unexpectedly took possession
of the capitaL Our venerable authority has ‘full many a time and oft’ heard her mother describe
how she and her lady looked over one of these ten windows, and saw the detachment of Cameron’s
Highlanders, who rushed in at the Nether Bow, marching up the High Street, while two ba,Tipers
played, in spirit-stirring tones, ‘We’ll awa’ to Shirra-muir, to haud the Whigs in order.’ She has
also heard her mother descant with much delight upon the ball given to the ladies of the city of
Edinburgh, by the Duke of Cumberland, after his return from Culloden. Mrs. Cochrane and her
maid walked down the Canongate to Holyrood House, where they were received by his Royal
Highness and some of his Hessian ofticers ; and it is reported that the Duke, after saluting the lady,
went up to her attendant, and, either because he liked her best, or because he could use the.most
freedom with her, favoured her with double the compliment.”
3 D

... SKETCHES. 385 rank of Captain in the 44th, or Lee’s Regiment of Foot. With this corps he was ...

Book 8 p. 537
(Score 0.24)

THE WEST BOW AND SUBURBS. 351
over the principal door were those of Britain after the Union of the Crowns.
stones, above the windows, were five emblematical representations :- .
On triangular
And in these five, such thing8 their form expresa’d.
As we can touch, taste, feel, or hear, or see.
A variety of the Virtues also were strewed upon different parts of the building. In one
place was a rude representation of our h s t parents, and underneath the well-known old
proverbial distich :-
When Adam delved and Eve Bpan,
Quhair war a’ the gentlea than !
In another place was a head of Julius Csesar, and elsewhere a head of Octavius Secundus,
both in good preservation.” Many of these sculptures were recklessly defaced and
broken, and the whole of them dispersed. Among those we have examined there is one,
now built over the doorway of Gillespie’s School, having a tree cut on it, bearing for
fruit the stars and crescents of the family arms, and the inscription DOMINUS EST ILLU-
~ A T I OME A ; another, placed over the Hospital Well, has this legend below a boldly
cut heraldic device, CONSTANTIA ET LABORE . 1339. On two others, nom at Woodhouselee,
are the following, BEATUS VIR QUI SPERAT IN DEO . 1450 . and PATRIB ET POSTERIS . 1513 .
Altogether there were probably included in the decorations of this single building more
quaint and curious allegories and inscriptions than are now left to reward our investigation
among all the antiquities of the Old Town. The only remains of this singular mansion
that have escaped the general wreck, are the sculptured pediments and heraldic carvings
built into the boundary walls of the Hospital; and a few others, referred to above, which
were secured by the late Lord Woodhouselee, and now adorn a ruin on Mr Tytler’s
estate at the Pentlands. An examination of these s&ces to show that no dependence
can be placed on the date referred to by Cadmon in fixing the age of the building, as the
whole are in the florid style that prevailed in the reign of James VI., and were no doubt
cut at one period as a durable memorial of the family tree.’ Maitland, after refuting the
popular derivation of the name of Wrychtishousis, from the supposed fact of the mights
or carpenters having dwelt there while cutting down the oaks of the Borough Muir,
assigns it as the mansion of the Laird of Wite.’ That, however, is merely reasoning in
a circle, and deriving its name from itself; but no better explanation seems now discoverable.
Only one other suburban district remaina to be included in our sketch of the old Scottish
Capital. Villages and hamlets have indeed been embraced within its modern exten-
1 A minute account of these, with accurate facsimiles of sevend of them, will be found in “The History of the Partition
of the LennoL” The author shows that from the earliest records no evidence leads to the idea of any connection
between the ownem of Merchiaton and Wrychtiihouaie, notwithstanding their common name. Their arms are quite
distinct, until 1513-the memorable year of Flodden-when one of the heraldic sculpturea shows an alliance between
the Laird of Wrychtishousis and a daughter of Merchiston. The author, however, does not notice the fact that on the
family vault in St Oiles’e Church, the arms of both families are cut, not impaled, but on two distinct, though attached
shields, and with the Merchiaton crest. He h a been driven to some very ingenious and learned theories to account
for a shield bearing three crescents on the field, which he found-where it ought to b-t Woodhouselee, Mng the
arms of the present owner of t h how.
a Maitland, p. 508.-Thia derivation is deduced erroneously from the boundaries of the Borough Muir, aa given by
himself, where he has printed in the possessive case and aa two worda, what should evidently read, “The Laird of
Wryteshouse,” a~ in the previous sentence, “ The Laird of Marchiston.”-Ibid, p. 177.

... WEST BOW AND SUBURBS. 351 over the principal door were those of Britain after the Union of the ...

Book 10 p. 384
(Score 0.24)

3 54 MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH.
(‘ And ds it is our will yat ye cordinaris dwelland within our regalite, . . . besyde our
chapel1 of Sanct Niniane, outwith Sanct Androws Port besyde Edinburcht, be in bretherheid
and fallowschipe with ye said dekin and masteris of ye said Cordinar crauft.” The
main street of the Barony of Calton, derived from this ancient chapel the name of St
Ninian’s Row, and although this had been superseded by common consent of late years,
there still remains carved on the west side of the large old well the name and date, ST
NINIAN’S Row, 1752 ; while on the lintel of the east doorway is cut (‘ CRAIG END,” the
term by which the High Calton Was known of old. Here also is the boundary of South
Leith Parish, in proof of which there might recently be seen carved and gilded in raised
letters on a beam under the north-west gallery of St Mary’s Church, Leith, ‘( FOR THE
C w a END, 1652.” The engraving of St Ninian’s Row will serve to convey some idea
of the picturesque range of edifices dedicated of old to the Confessor, and swept away
by the recent operations of the North British Railway. They were altogether of a humble
character, and appear to have very early received a more appropriate dedication as
“The Beggar Row.’’ One stone tenement, which seemed to lay claim to somewhat
higher pretensions than its frail lath and plaster neighbours, owed its origin to the
temporary prosperity of the vassals of St Crispin in this little barony. An ornamental
panel graced the front of its projecting staircase, decorated with the Shoemakers’
arms, surrounded with a richly sculptured border, and bearing the pious motto :-GOD
BLISS THEY CORDINERS OF EDINBURGH, WHA BUILT THIS HOUSE. It was sacrificed, we
presume, in the general ruin of the Cordiners of Canongate and its dependencies. In
Sempill of Beltrees’ curious poem, (‘ The Banishment of Poverty,” already referred to,
the author and his travelling companion, the Genius of Poverty, make for this locality
as the best suited for such wayfarers :-
We held the Long-gate to Leith Wpe,
Where poorest purses used to be ;
And in the Caltown lodged syne,
Fit quarters for such companie.
Such was its state in 1680, when it formed one of the chief thoroughfares to the city,
and the road which led by the ancient Burgh of Broughton to the neighbouring seaport.
The principal approach to Leith, however, continued for nearly a century after this to be
by the Eastern Road, through the Water Gate; and the present broad and handsome
thoroughfare, which still retains the name of Leith WaA, was then simply an elevated
gravel path. The origin of this valuable modern improvement is strangely traceable to one
of the most disastrous campaigns of the seventeenth century. During the manceuaings
of the Scottish army under their Covenanting leader, General Leslie, in 1650, previous to
the battle of Dunbar, the whole forces were drawn up for a time in the open plain between
Edinburgh and Leith, and a line of defence constructed by means of a redoubt on the
Calton Hill, and another at Leith, with a trench and parapet extending between them.
The position was admirably adapted both for the defence of the towns and the security of
the army, so long ae the latter remained on the defensive; but the superior tactics of
Liber Cartarurn, App. p 291. This, it will be observed, ia an earlier notice of the Cordinera of Canongate than
that referred to on p. 291. The Hall of the Cordinera of Calton was only demolished in 1845, for the site of the North
British Raiiway Station.

... 54 MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH. (‘ And ds it is our will yat ye cordinaris dwelland within our regalite, . . . ...

Book 10 p. 388
(Score 0.24)

362 MEMORIAL S OF EDINB URG H.
old oaken chair remained till recently an heirloom, bequeathed by its patrician occupants
to the humble tenants of their degraded dwellings. A recent writer on the antiquities
of Leith, conceives it probable that this may have been the residence of the Regent
Lennox; but we have been baffled in our attempts to arrive at any certain evidence
on the subject by reference to the titles. “ Mary,” says Maitland, “ haviug begun
to build in the town of Leith, was followed therein by divers of the nobility, bishops,
and other persons of distinction of her party; several of whose houses are still remaining,
as m y be seen in sundry places, by their spacious rooms, lofty ceilings, large staircases,
and private oratories or chapels for the celebration of mass.” Beyond the probable
evidence afforded by such remains of decaying splendour and former wealth, nothing
more can now be ascertained. The occupation of Leith by nobles and dignitaries of
the Church was of a temporary nature, and under circumstances little calculated to
induce them to leave many durable memorials of their presence. A general glance, therefore,
at such noticeable features as still remain, will suffice to complete our survey of the
ancient seaport.
The earliest date that we have discovered on any of the old private buildings of the
burgh, occurs on the projecting turnpike of an antique tenement at the foot of Burgess
Close, which bears this inscription on the lintel, in Roman characters :-NISI DNS FRUSTBA,
1573. This ancient alley is the earliest thoroughfare in the burgh of which we have
any account. It was granted to the burgesses of Edinburgh, towards the close of the
fourteenth century, by Logan of Restalrig, the baronial over-lord of Leith, before it
acquired the dignity of a royal burgh, and the owner of nearly all the lands that extended
along the banks of the harbour of Leith. We are led to infer from the straitened proportions
of this narrow alley, that the whole exports and imports of the shipping of Leith were
conveyed on pack-horses or in wheel-barrows, as it would certainly prove impassable for
any larger wheeled convejance. Its inconvenience, however, appears to have been felt at
the time, and the Laird of Restalrig was speedily compelled to grant a more commodious
access to the shore. The inscription which now graces this venerable thoroughfare, though
of a date so much later than its first construction, preserves a memorial of its gifts to the
civic Council of Edinburgh, as we may reasonably ascribe to the veneration of some wealthy
merchant of the capital the inscribing over the doorway of his mansion at Leith the
very appropriate motto of the City Arms. To this, the oldest quarter of the town, indeed,
we must direct those who go “in search of the picturesque.” Watera’ Close, which
adjoins Burgess Close, is scarcely surpassed by any venerable alley of the capital, either in
its attractive or repulsive features. Stone and timber lands are mixed together in admired
disorder ; and one antique tenement in particular, at the corner of Water Lane, with a
broad projecting turnpike, contorted by corbels and string courses, and every variety of
convenient aberration from the perpendicular or horizontal, which the taste or whim of its
constructor could devise, is one of the most singular edifices that the artist could select as a
subject for his pencil.
The custom of affixing sententious aphorisms to the entrances of their dwellings appears
to have pertained fully as much to the citizens of Leith as of Edinburgh. BLISSIT . BE .
GOD . OF . HIS . GIFTIS . 1601., I. W., I. H., is boldly cut on a large square panel on
the front of an old house at the head of Sheriff Brae; and the same favourite motto

... MEMORIAL S OF EDINB URG H. old oaken chair remained till recently an heirloom, bequeathed by its patrician ...

Book 10 p. 398
(Score 0.24)

BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES. 213
placed.’ These are usually carried by a boy denominated a cadie;’ and the
players are generally preceded by a runner, or foremdie, to observe the ball, so
that no time may be lost in discovering it. Bets of a novel nature, which set
the ordinary routine of the game entirely aside, are occasionally undertaken by
the more athletic. An amusing and dacult feat, sometimes attempted from
Bruntsfield Links, is that of driving the ball to the top of Arthur’s Seat I’
In this fatiguing undertaking, being a species of steeple chase, over hedges and
ditches, the parties are usually followed by bottle-holders and other attendants,
denoting the excessive exertion required.
In 1798 bets were taken in the Burgess Golfing Society, that no two
members could be found capable of driving a ball over the spire of St, Giles’s
steeple. The late Xlr. Sceales of Leith, and Mr. Smellie, printer, were
selected to perform this formidable undertaking. They were allowed to use six
balls each. The balls passed considerably higher than the weathercock, and
were found nearly opposite the Advocate’s Close. The bet was decided early
in the morning in case of accident, the parties taking their station at the southeast
corner of the Parliament Square. The feat is described as one of easy
performance. was obtained by a barrel stave, suitably
fixed ; and the height of the steeple, which is one hundred and sixty-one feet,
together with the distance from the base of the Church, were found to be much
less than a good stroke of the club.
When confined to its proper limits, the game of golf is one of moderate
exercise, and excellently calculated for healthful recreation, In the west of Scotland
it is comparatively unknown.6 One cause for this may be the want of
Commons, or Links, sufficiently large for the pastime to be pursued to advantage.
In Glasgow a golf club was formed some time ago ; but we understand
the members were under the necessity of breaking up, in consequence of having
been prohibited the use of the green, part of which is preserved with great care
for the purposes of bleaching. In Stirling two or three golfers may occasionally
be seen playing in the King’s Park, but the game has evidently ceased to be
The cadies, though generally boys, are in some instances professional players who continue the
occupation in addition to some other calling. They are for the most part very skilful players, having
a thorough knowledge of the game, which makes their services the more valuable, from tbe judicious
advice they are capable of affording the player whose clubs they carry.
8 This does not appear to have been attempted prior to the period when Hugo h o t wrote his
History of Edinburgh. In a critical note on the letters of Topham, who wrote in 1775, h o t
remarks that the author “has been pleased to make the top of Arthur’s Seat, and those of the other
hills in the neishbourhood of Edinburgh, fields for the game of the golf. This observation is still
more unfortunate than the general train of his remarks. Were a person to play a ball from the top
of Arthur’s Seat, he would probably have to walk upwards of half a mile before he could touch it
again ; and we will venture to say, that the w?wk art of man could not play ths Wl back agaim.’’
This, however, has actually been done.
For a bet a
ball waa driven, aome yeam ago, by Mr. Donald M‘Lean, W.S., over Mdville’s Monument, in St.
Andrew Square.
4 This remark does not apply now-Prestwick Linka, in Aphim, King one of the beat and moat
f a ~ o u r i kfi elds for the game in Scotland.
The required elevation
1 By the rules of the game (with certain exceptions) the ball must be struck where it lies.
The elevation waa taken by Mr. Laidlaw, teacher of Mathematies in Edinburgh.
ED. 1877.

... SKETCHES. 213 placed.’ These are usually carried by a boy denominated a cadie;’ and the players ...

Book 9 p. 284
(Score 0.24)

HISTORICAL INCIDENTS AFTER THE RESTORA TION. 113
ment, and confiscation to many of the most active leaders in the movement, and a general
persecution of ‘( Papists, Jacobites, Episcopals, and disaffected persons.” Archibald Stewart,
the Lord Provost of Edinburgh, was regarded with peculiar jealousy, on account of the
city having fallen into the hands of the Highland army, without resistance, or any attempt
at defence. He endured a long and severe trial, in which it was shown that the great
extent, and very dilapidated condition of the walls, as well as the manifest lukewarmness of
a large portion of the inhabitants towards the reigning family, rendered the defence of the
town, for any length of time, against a victorious army, quite impossible. The trial lasted
from the 27th of October till the 2d of November, when the Provost was acquitted by a
unanimous verdict of the jury. This was regarded as a triumph by the Jacobite party, and
a public meeting was summoned to assemble on the following evening in the Baxter’s
Hall; but the magistrates took alarm at the proposal, and the meeting was summarily
interdicted, as calculated to destroy the prestige of the triumphant bonfire so recently
kindled at the Cross.
The house of Provost Stewart was a very curious old building in the West Bow, with
its main entrance at the foot of Donaldson’s Close. It was only one story high, in
addition to the attics, on the north side, while on the south it presented a lofty front
to the Bow. This building stood immediately to the west of Free St John’s Church;
it is described by Chambers1 as being of singular construction, and as full of curious little
rooms, concealed closets, and secret stairs, as any house that ever had the honour of being
haunted. The north wall, which still remains built into the range of shops forming the
new terrace, stood long exposed to view, affording abundant evidence of this. Little
closets and recesses are excavated, almost like a honey-comb, out of the solid rock behind,
many of which, however, have been built up in adapting it to its new purpose. ((In
one of the rooms,” says Chambers, “there was a little cabinet about three feet high,
which any one, not acquainted with the mysterious arcana of ancient houses, would suppose
to be a cupboard. Nevertheless, under this modest, simple, and unassuming disguise,
was concealed a thing of no less importance and interest than a trap ~ t a i r . ” ~ This
ingeniously-contrived passage communicated behihd with the West Bow, and, according
to the same authority, it was said to have afforded, on one occasion, a aafe and unsuspected
exit to Prince Charles and Borne of his principal officers, who were enjoying the hospitality
of the Jacobitical Provost, when an alarm was given that a troop of the enemy, from
the Castle, were coming down the Close to seize them. This curious building derives an
additional interest from its last occupant, James Donaldson, the wealthy printer, from
whose bequest the magnificent hospital that bears his name has been erected at the west
end of the town.
Our historical sketch of the ancient capital of Scotland has mainly embraced the period
during which the Stuart race filled the throne, and made it the arena of many of the most
prominent incidents in the‘ir history; and with this closing scene in the narrative of their
illustrious line, our historic Memorials of the Olden Time may fitly end. The asaociations
with which the local antiquites of Edinburgh still abound, will afford a fitting opportunity
for treating of incidents and characters of a later date, that are worthy of our notice,
Chambera’a Traditions, vol. i. p. 143. . Ibid, voL i p. 144.
P

... INCIDENTS AFTER THE RESTORA TION. 113 ment, and confiscation to many of the most active leaders in the ...

Book 10 p. 124
(Score 0.24)

LUCKENBOUTHS AND PARLIAMENT CLOSE. 205
to the grave: the Regent Morton pronouncing over him his brief, but just and memorable
requiem, and before the generation had passed away that witnessed and joined
in his funeral service, the churchyard in which they laid him had been converted into
a public thoroughfare. We fear this want of veneration must be regarded as a national
characteristic, which Knox assisted to call into existence, and to which we owe much of
the reckless demolition of time-honoured monuments of the past, which it is now thought
a weakness to deplore.’
on the authority of “ the then Recorder of
Edinburgh, that many of the tombstones were removed from St Giles’s to the Greyfriars,
where they still exist; ” but we do not know of a single inscription remaining that gives
probability to this assertion. All the monuments in the Greyfriars’ Churchyard are of
a later date than Queen Mary’s gift of the gardens of the ancient monastery, though
even were it otherwise, it would not be conclusive, as the royal grant was in all probability
only an extension of an ancient burial-ground attached to the monastery in the Grassmarket.
It is mentioned almost immediately thereafter as a place of burial during the
dreadful plague of 1568, when a huge pit is ordered to be dug in the (‘ Greyfriars’ Kirkzaird.”
* Bailie Macmorran’s monument is, we believe, the only one in the old cemetery
which dates so early as the sixteenth century ; we are therefore forced to conclude that,
in the same spirit that led to the abandonment of St Giles’s burial-ground, its ancient
monuments were converted to a similar purpose with the old chapel of the Holy Rood,
that stood in the lower yard.
A few of the most important changes that have taken place on this interesting spot, in
the heart of the ancient capital, arranged in the order of their occurrence, will best illustrate
the rapidity with which it passed through successive transitions. In the year 1496, the
provost of St Giles’s Church granted to the citizens the northern part of his manse, with
the glebe, for augmenting the cemetery. In 1528 Walter Chepman, the celebrated
printer, founded and endowed a chaplainry in the chapel of the Holy Rood, in the nether
kirkyard; in 1559 the chapel was deqolished and left in ruins; and in 1562 its materials
helped to build a new Tolbooth at the north-west corner of the churchyard. On the
Protestant clergy being finally established in the stead of their Catholic predecessors, the
prebendal buildings became the residence of the tom ministers, and thither, in the year
1580, the nucleus of the present University Library was removed, until a suitable building
should be procured for it. From this clerical college the ministers were ejected in 1597
by the incensed King, who trusted thereby to weaken their power and influence, by compelling
them to live apart from one another. The substantial forfeit thus wrung from the
reclaiming clergy seems to have been regarded by him as a peculiarly acceptable trophy ;
no doubt, in part at least, from the evidence it furnished of his having come off victorious
in a contest with those who, until then, had always proved his most untractable opponents.
It is mentioned in the “ Traditions,”
1 hte, p. 83. ’ Prdbably the annals of no other town could exhibit the Hame indifference to ita ancient cemeteries, which even the
rude Indian holds sacred. Before the Reformation there were the Blackfriars kirkyard, where the Surgical Hospital
or old High. School stands ; the Kirk of Field,-now occupied by the College,-Trinity College, Holyrood Abbey, St
Roque’s and St Leonard’a kikyards. In all these places human bona are still found on digging to any depth. In thia
respect Edinburgh exhibita 8 striking contrast to the more crowded English capital.
a Chambers’s Traditions, vol. ii. p. 196. “ Statuta for the Pest.,’’ Maitland, p. 32.

... AND PARLIAMENT CLOSE. 205 to the grave: the Regent Morton pronouncing over him his brief, but just ...

Book 10 p. 224
(Score 0.24)

THE CANONGA TE AND ABBEY SANCTUAR Y. 289
able printer read snatches of the forthcoming novel, and whetted, while he seemed to
gratify their curiosity, by many a shrewd wink, and mysterious hint of confidential insight
into the literary riddle of the age. The scene, indeed, has melancholy associations with
the great novelist. It is a place which he often visited as an honoured guest, while yet
with sanguine mind and fertile imagination he was anticipating the realisation of dreams
as wild as his most fanciful legends; but it is far more nearly allied to those mournful
years, when the brave man looked on the sad realities of ruined hopes, and bent himself
sternly to rebuild and to restore. The house at the head of the street, facing the
Canongate, where James Earl of Bopetoun resided previously to 1788, is associated
with another of the most eminent Scottish poets and novelists, the precursor of Scott in
the popular field of romance. The first floor of this house was the residence of Mrs
Telfer, of Scotstown, the sister of Smollett, during his second visit to his native country
in 1766; and here he resided for some time, and though in an infirm state of health,
mixed in the best society of the Scottish capital, and treasured up those graphic pictures of
men aud manners which he afterwards embodied in his last and best novel, U Humphrey
Clinker, ”
At the foot of the Pleasance, and extending between that ancient thoroughfare and the
valley that skirts the base of Salisbury Crags, is a rising ground called St John’s Hill,
which, from its vicinity to the places already described, may be presumed to have derived
its name from the same cause. The knights of St John of Jerusalem, who succeeded to
the forfeited, possessions of the Templars, it is well-known held lands in almost every shire
in Scotland, and claimed a jurisdiction, even within the capital, over certain tenements
built on their ground, some of which, now remaining in the Grassmarket, still bear the
name of Temple Lands. In the absence of all evidence on this subject, we venture to
suggest the probability of a similar proprietorship having been the source of this name.
In the earliest map of Edinburgh which exists, that of 1544, a church of large dimensions
appears occupying the exact site of St John’s Hill, but this is no doubt intended for the
Blackfriars’ Monastery which stood on the opposite side of the Pleasance. It is possible
that some early deeds or charters may yet be discovered to throw light on this subject,
though we havs been unsuccessful in the search. The Templars, indeed, would seem to
have had an establishment at Mount Hooly on the southern verge of St Leonard‘s Hill.
‘<O n the eastern side of Newington,” says Maitland, ‘(o n a gentle eminence denominated
Mons Sacer, or Holy Mount, now corruptly Mount Hooly, was situate a chapel, which,
from the position of the bodies buried cross-legged wayLyB, with their swords by
their sides, which were found lately in digging there, I take to have belonged to
the Knights Templars.” It is difficult now to fix the exact site of this interesting
spot, owing to the changes effected on the whole district by the extended buildings
of the town.’
On the north side of the Canongate, opposite to St John Street, a large and lofty
stone tenement bears the name of Jack’s Land, where the lovely Susannah, Countess
Maitland, p. 176, where a reference is made to the Council Registers, but we have searched them in vain for any
The fact of cross-legged corpses with swords by their sides being dug up, is, to
Perhaps
notice of it under the date assigned.
say the least of it, somewhat marvelloua, and merited a more elaborate narrative from that careful historian.
however, it should be understood ae referring to sculptured figures.
2 0

... CANONGA TE AND ABBEY SANCTUAR Y. 289 able printer read snatches of the forthcoming novel, and whetted, while ...

Book 10 p. 314
(Score 0.24)

416 MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH.
And again, in speaking of domestic pilgrimages, he assigns to this saint the virtues for
which he was most noted by the citizens of Edinburgh in early times :-
Sa doith our commoun populare,
Quhilk war to lang for till declare,
Thair superstitious pilgramagie,
To monie divers imagis :
Sum to Sanct Roche, with diligence,
To naif thame from the pestilence :
For thair teith to Sanct Apollene ;
To Sanct Tredwell to mend thair em.
The Chapel of St Roque has not escaped the notice of the Lord Lyon King’s poetic eulogist,
among the varied features of the landscape that fill up the magnificent picture, as Lord
Marmion rides under the escort of Sir .David Lindsay to the top of Blackford Hill, in his
approach to the Scottish camp, and looks down on the martial array of the kingdom covering
the wooded links of the Borough Muir. James IT. is there represented as occasionally
wending his way to attend mass at the neighbouring Chapels of St Katherine or St Roque ;
nor is it unlikely that the latter may have been the scene of the monarch’s. latest acts of
devotion, ere he led forth that gallant array to perish around him on the Field of Flodden.
The Church of St John the Baptist, which was afterwards converted into the Chapel of the
Convent of St Katherine de Sienna, was then just completed; but Geoge Lord Setoun,
whose widow founded the convent a few years later, and Adam Hepburn, Earl of Bothwell,
her father, were among the nobles who marshalled their followers around the Scottish
standard, to march to the fatal field where both were slain. In accordance with the attributes
ascribed by Lindsay to St Roque, we find his chapel resorted to by the victims of
the plague, who encamped on the Borough Muir during the prevalence of that dreadful
scourge in the sixteenth century ; and the neighbouring cemetery became the resting-place
of those who fell a prey to the pestilence. Among the statutes of the Burgh is the following
for December 1530, “We do yow to wit, forsamekle a8 James Barbour, master and
gouernour of the foule folk on the Mure, is to be clengit, and hes intromettit with sindry
folkis gudis and clais quhilkis ar lyand in Sanct Rokis Chapell, Thairfor al maner of personis
that has ony clame to the said gudis that thai cum on Tysday nixt to cum to the officiaris,
and thar dais to be clengit, certyfyand thaim, and thai do nocht, that all the said clais gif
thai be of litill avail1 sal be brynt, and the laif to be gevin to the pure folkis.”’ k n o t
relates that this ancient chapel-an engraving of which is given in the re-issue of the
quarto edition of his history-narrowly escaped the demolition to which its proprietor had
doomed it about the middle of last century, owing to the superstitious terrors of the workmen
engaged to pull it down. The march of intellect, however, had made rapid strides ere
its doom was a second time pronounced by a new proprietor early in the present century,
when the whole of this interesting and venerable ruin was swept away, as an unsightly
encumbrance to the estate of a retired tradesman !
The teinds or tithes of the Borough Muir belonged of old to the Abbey of Holyrood;
but this did not interfere with the acquirement of nearly the whole of jts broad lands by
private proprietors, aud their transference to various ecclesiastical foundations. The name
Acta and Statutes, Burgh of Edinburgh. Mait. Misc, vol ii. p. 117.

... MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH. And again, in speaking of domestic pilgrimages, he assigns to this saint the virtues ...

Book 10 p. 456
(Score 0.24)

THE CA S TL E. 125
the initials H. and M. inwrought, for HENRaYid MARY,a nd the date 1566,' commemorates
the birth of James VI., on the 19th June of that year. The small room, which was
the scene of this important event, forms the south-east angle of the building. It is singularly
irregular in form and circumscribed in its dimensions, its greatest length being little
more than eigh't feet. The room was formerly neatly panelled with wainscot, but, after
being abandoned for years aiit a drinking-room to the -canteen, much of this has been
renewed in a very rude and inelegant fashion. The original ceiling, however, is preserved,
wrought in ornamental wooden panels, with the initials I. R. and M. R surmounted
with the royd crown, in alternate compartments ; and, on the wall, the commemorative
inscription, in black letter, mentioned by Maitland, still remains, with the Scottish arms
over it :-
Z o t t ~fn edu &brg& tbat crounit mad mitb 6IOornde,
pree'elzle tbe girth, qubais Dabgie heir i$'b orne,
Xnb $en& @ip aonee Bucrelilione, to meignr $tin,
Xaug in tbig Iliealme, if tbat it be mbg miH
Et$ Grant, 0 Porb, qubat eber of @It profleeb
%e to @Ibp @oner Rnb VraiB, pobieb.
19th IFNII, 1566.
At the back of the fireplace was formerly shown a hole, said to have served as the
communication'fhrough which a wire was conveyed to a house in the Grassmarket, and
there attached to a bell, to advise the Queen's Catholic friends of the birth of her son.
The use of bells, however, except in church steeples, is of a much more modern date; and
'-equally apocryphal is another story of the infant Prince having been secretly let down over
the rock in a basket, into the hands of these same'adherents of the Queen, to be educated
in the Catholic religion.
A considerable part of the east and north fronts of the ancient Royal Palace seem,
from the dates on them, as well as from the general style of the building, to have been
erected in the year 1616. The appearance, however, of many portions of the interior
leave no room to doubt that tlie works of that date were only a partial remodelling of a
more ancient fabric. Some of the stone panels on the east front are wrought in remarkably
beautiful Eliaabethan.ornaments, and on one of them the regalia have been sculptured
in high relief, though some chance shot, in one of the later sieges of the Castle, has
broken away the larger portion of the figures. The turrets at the angles of the building,
as well as the clock tower in the quadrangle, were originally covered with ogee lead roofs,
similar ta that still remaining on the turret staircase at the north end.
Immediately below the grand hall, are two tiers of large and strongly-vaulted bombproof
vaults, extending below the paved court of the quadrangle, communicating with a
wide arched passage, entered from the west side. The small loop-hole that admits light
into each of these huge vaults is strongly secured by three ranges of iron bars, and a
massive iron gate closes the entrance to the steep flight of steps that give admission to
the dreary dungeons. Within these gloomy abodes the French prisoners were confined
during the late war, above forty of them sleeping in a single vault. We furnish a view
Ante. p. 77. From the style of ornament, it appears to have been put up at 8 later period, probably by James VI.
on his visit to Scotlaud in 1617.

... CA S TL E. 125 the initials H. and M. inwrought, for HENRaYid MARY,a nd the date 1566,' commemorates the ...

Book 10 p. 136
(Score 0.24)

146 MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH.
single apartment, with a huge fireplace at the west end, and a gallery added to it by the
timber projection in front. The hearth-stone was raised above the level of the floor, and
guarded by a stone ledge or fender, similar in character to a fireplace of the thirteenth century
dill existing at St Mary’s Abbey, York. This room was lighted by a large dormer
window in the roof, in addition to the usual windows in front; and in the thickness of
the stone wall, within the wooden gallery, there were two ornamental stone recesses, with
projecting sculptured sills, and each closed by an oak door, richly carved with dolphins
and other ornamental devices.’ The roof was high and steep, and the entire appearance
of the building singulaTly picturesque. We have been the more particular in describing
it, from the interest attaching to its original possessors. It is defined, in one of the titledeeds
of the neighbouring property, as (( That tenement of land belonging to the chaplain
of the chaplainry of St Nicolas’s Altar, founded within the College Church of St Giles,
within the burgh of Edinburgh;” it is now replaced by a plain, unattractive, modern
building.
The most interesting portions of this district, however, or perhaps of any other among
the private buildings in the Old Town, were to be found within the space including Todd’s,
Nairn’s, and Blyth’s Closes, nearly the whole of which have been swept away to provide a
site for the New College. On the west side of Blyth’s Close there existed a remarkable
building, some portion of which still remains. This the concurrent testimony of tradition
and internal evidence pointed out as having been the mansion of Mary of Guise, the Queen
of James V., and the mother of Queen Mary. There was access to the different apartments,
as is- usual in the oldest houses in Edinburgh, by various stairs and intricate
passages ; for no feature is so calculated to excite the surprise of a stranger, on his first visit
to such substantial mansions, as the numerous and ample flights of stone stairs, often placed
in immediate juxtaposition, yet leading to different parts of the building. Over the main
doorway, which still remains, there is the inscription, in bold Gothic characters, %&U$
gonot! Dto, with I. R., the initials of the King, at thk respective ends of the lintel.
On a shield, placed on the right side, the monogram of the Virgin Nary is sculptured,*
while a corresponding shield on the left, now entirely defaced, most probably bore the usual
one of our Saviour.’ . On the first landing of the principal stair, a small vestibule gave entrance to an apartment,
originally of large dimensions, though for many years subdivided into various rooms
and passages. At the right-hand side of the inner doorway, on entering this apartment, a
remarkably rich Gothic niche remained till recently, to which we have given the name of a
piscina, in the accompanying engraving, owing to its having a hole through the bottom of
it, the peculiar mark of that ecclesiastical feature, and one which we have not discovered in
any other of those niches we have examined. The name is at least convenient for distinction
in future reference to it; but its position was at the side of a very large and handsome
fireplace, one of the richly clustered pillars of which appears in the engraving, on the
outside of a modern partition, and no feature was discoverable in the apartment calculated
For the description of the interior of this ancient building, we are mainly indebted to the Rev. J. Sime, chaplain of
Trinity Hospital, whose uncle long possessed the property. A very oblique view of the house appears in Storer’s ‘‘High
Street, from the Caatle Parade.” Plate 1, vol. ii.
Vide Pugin’s Glossary of Eccl. Ornament, p. 162. 8 Vignette at the head of the Chapter.

... MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH. single apartment, with a huge fireplace at the west end, and a gallery added to it by ...

Book 10 p. 158
(Score 0.24)

I N D E X .
[IN Part I. of this Work, the incidents are related in chronological order; and in Part 11. (p. 119), according to a
systematic arrangement indicated in the headings of the several Chapters. By a reference to the Contents, any
historical event, or the description of a particular locality, may be readily found. The Index is intended as a, guide to
incidental notices throughout the volume ; and, to render it more complete, all noblemen mentioned merely by their
titles in the course of the work. are here distin-g uished from one another by their proper names, and other individuals generally by some distinctive title or descript,ion.]
Abbey Hill, 138, 309
Abbotsford, 154, 185, 348, 353
Aberdeen, William 2d Earl of, 141
Aberuchill, Lord, 178
Acheson, Sir Archibald, House of, 297
Adam of St Edmunds, Parson of Restalrig, 399
ddvocate’s Library, 182, 210
African Company, 107
Aikenhead, Sir Patrick, 208
Airth, Earl of, the Mansion of, 309
Albany, Alexander Duke of, 19, 20
Close, 229
Arms of, 395
John Duke of, 38, 39
Robert Duke of, 388
Isabell, Duchess of, 382
Alesse, Alexander, 314, 424
Alexander I., 3 .
II., 5, 377
III., 5, 356
VI., Pope, 23
Sir William. See Stirling, Earl of
Alison Sqnare, 346
Allan, David, the Painter, 260
Allen, Janet, the Witcb, 305
Allison’s CIose, Cowgate, 329
Alva, Lord, 193, 195
Amiens, Bishop of, 64, 68
Anand, Sir David de, 7
Anchor Close, 238
Ancrum, Battle of, 53
Angus, Archibald Douglas, 6th Earl of, 36, 37, 40, 61,
319
Archibald, 8th Earl of, 84
Archibald, 9th Earl of, 283
dune, the Lady, 102, 206,287,341
Queen, 133
of Denmark, 86, 315, 341
Street, Stockbridge, 98
Anatruther, Sir Philip, 284
Antiquaries of Scotland, the Society of, 140,180, 376
Argyle, Bishop of, 78
Archibald, 5th Earl of, 63, 64, 67, 84
Archibald, Marquis of, 100, 123, 141, 188, 2953
Archibald, 9th Earl of, 123, 174, 203, 216, 305,
403
316
Lodging of, 316
Countess of, 75, 174
Duke of, 109
Armstrong, Johnnie, 41
Will., 244
Armada, Spanish, 369
Arnot, Hugo, 142
Arran, James, 1st Earl of, 36, 37, 40, 318
James, 2d Earl of, 48, 51, 56, 63, 67, 68, 82, 151
James, 3d Earl of, 174
James Stewart, Earl of, 176
Assembly Aisle, St Qiles’s Church, 390. See Prestm
Aisle.
Rooms, Assembly Close, 243
Bell’s Wynd, 243
West Bow, 243, 338
Atholl, Duke of, 145, 183
Walter Stewart, Ear1 of, the execution of, 15
John, 4th Earl of, 389
Burial Place of, 389, 390
Auchinleck, Lord, 161
Austin, Dr, 145, 332
Bagimont’s Roll, 31
Baijen Hole, 183
Bailie’s Court, Cowgate, 329
Bailie Fife’s Close, 264
Baird, Dr, 143
Sir David, the Birth Place of, 139
Sir Bobert, 138
Bakehouse Close, Canongate, 296
Balcanquall, Dr, 170
Walter, If0

... N D E X . [IN Part I. of this Work, the incidents are related in chronological order; and in Part 11. (p. 119), ...

Book 10 p. 498
(Score 0.24)

' GENERAL INDEX.
Tytlm of Woodhouselee, William,
Tytler, the aeronaut, 111. 135
I. 155
U
Umbrella First use of the, 11. 282
Umptmvhe's cross I. 383
Union BankofScotlind 11.150,151
Unlon Bank Leith I d . 239
Union Canal, The,'I$. 99, 2x5, 219,
Union cellar, The, I. 164, * 165
Union Club, The, 111. 122
Union of Scotland and England,
Unpopularity of the I. 163-165,
178. 11. 37, 111. 19;; its dire effects
and ultimate good results,
I. 165 ; increase in wealth in spite
of the, I. 155' e&ct of 11. 15 ;
place where i; wns siined, 11.
'32, 33 : period when Edinburgh
seemed toarouse fromitslethargy,
11.175 ; rights of the University
defined, 111. 16
Union Jack first usedin Leith, 111.
182
UnitedCorporationofLeith,I17.218
United Incorporation of St. Mary's
226, Ill. 326
Chapel, The, 11.264
United Presbyterian Church, 11.
, 138, 185, 214
United Presbyterian Church of
Scotland, Offices of the, 11.152
United Presbyterian Theological
Hall, 11. zy.
United Secewon Chapel of the
Links Leith, 111. 265
United Secession Congregation, 11.
University buildin s 11. 356
University Club #de 11. 125
University Hall: 11. ;56
University library, The, 11. 356,
Ut%r%;B%alSchools, Lauriston,
11. 357
University ofedinburgh, I. ~ 5 5 , 11.
274, 282, 298 111. 8 - 2 7 ; its origin,
111.8: the first Regent3,III.
9; James VI.'svisitation, I l l . 10;
salanes of the professors, ib.:
magisterial visitation, 111.10, 11,
15;abolitionof thebirch 111.11;
Cromwelrsgifts, ib.; and-Popery
riots,III. 11-13; the quadrangle,
111. 25 : south side of, 111% * 13 ;
professors expelled, 111. 14 ; dw
section first practised, I I I . r 4 , 1 ~ ~
quarrel with the Town Council:
111. 15 ; the museum of rarities,
ib. ; a Greek professor appointed,
111. 16; s stem of educationpursued
by h-tcipal Rollock, ib. ;
early mode of education, I11.18:
achangein17p.111. 19; theold
hours of attendance, ib. ; the silver
mace, 111.~2. projects for a new
college ib . 0;iginaldesignforthe
new bdldlAg, 111. '20; original
plan of its principal storey, 111.
* 21 ; the foundation-stone laid,
11. 17~22; completionofthenew
college, 111. 2 . its corporation
after 1858, II?.' 24 : principals,
chaiis, and first holden thereof,
111. 24, 15: average number of
students, 111 2 5 . notable bequests
111. '26. 'income ib.;
1 1 4 , ib. ; the 1;brary hail, 111.
*z8; the museums, Ill. 27; the
new building Pink z~
215, 2 3 249
University prilting-office, 1. 116
Upper Baxter's Close, I. 106
Upper Bow Port, I. 217, zrg ; relics
Upper dean Terrace, 111. 75
Upper Quarry Holes 111. 128 158
Upper West BOW, ~ . ' q i , II.
Urbani, Signor Pietro 11. 178
Urquhart, Sir George,' I. 226
Urt, Jacob de, theartist, 11. 74
of, I. I0
V
Valleyfield House 111. p
Valleyfield Street,'III. 30
Vandenhoff the tragedian I. 350
Veitch, Wiham, the Gdenanting
Veitches,Clan rivalries of the, I. 1%
Veitch's Square, 111. 75
Vennel, The, I. 38, 258, 11. 221,
122 225, 226, 239, 362, 111. 30;
vie; of ~ t a t e 21
Vennel, $he, Newhaven 111. agg
Veteran A naval II. 22;
VictorilDock, L;ith, 111.284, *285
Victoria Jetty, Leith, Ill. 284, 312
Victoria Statueof Queen 11. 83
Victoria'street, I. 291, *'293. 310,
Victoiw. swing bridge, Leith, 111.
Victoria Terrace, I. 111, 291, agz,
Viewforth Free Church, 111. 30
Vinegar Close, Leith, 111. 226;
sculptured stone in, 111. *2z6
Virgin's Square, 111. 75
Vocat, David, 11. 287, 111. 2
Voght theGerman traveller, 11.120
Volunieer Light Dragoons, Ertab
lishment of 11. 342
Volunteer review in the Queen's
Park 11. 310-32z, 354, Phi< 23
Vyse, beneral, 1 ~ 3 7 2 , 3 7 3
minister, 11. 273
319 ,II. 230
"73.&6
*293r 310
W
Wade General 11. 354
Wagekg Clud The 11. 319
Wait the paintk 11; go
Walcer of Coatei. Sir Patrick. 11.
111, 116, 111. 2.j
Walker Bishop 11. 198
Walker)of Drukheugh, M k , 11.
138
Walker, Dr 1. 235
Walker, JGes, Clerk of Session,
Walker, Patrick, 111. 156
Walker Street 11. 210, arr
Walkers of CAtes, Misses, 11. 210
Walkers The 11. 265
Wall of 'lam& 11.. Excavation of
11. 217
the I I - z ~ .
Wallice k i r h l i a m , I. 24, III. 143
Wallace of Craigie, Si Thomas,
I. IOI
378
Wallace of Elderslie, ohn, 11. 344
Wallace, Dr. Kobert,l. go, 11. 180,
Wallace, Prof. William, 11. 13
I r Wallace's Cradle," 1. *z5
Wallace's Tower, 1. 36, 4g
Wallace's cave and camp, 111. 355,
Walter Comvn. I. 21
366
Wnller de H*unkrcokbe I 24
Walter, Earl of Monteitb. i. 13
Ward, hlrs., the actress, 11. 23, 24
Wardie, 111. 84,94, ~4 307
Wardie Bum 111.
Wardie Castl; I. 4 2 1 1 . 310
Wardie Crexe'nt, IIi. 307
Wardie Muir, 111. 98, 306
Wardie Point, Ill. 286
Wardieburn House 111. 307
Wardlaw Sir John: 111. 161
Wardlaw' Sir William 11. 23
Wardlaw: Portrait of br., 11. 92
Ward's Inn, 111. 140
Warlaw Hill 111. 331
Warren, SaAuel, the author, 11.
Warrender Sir George 111. 46,47
Warrende; Sir John, Lbrd Provost,
Warrender, Sir Patrick, 111. 46
Warrender of Lochend, Bailie Lord
Warrenddr Capt. John IIJ. 46
WarrenderlHouse 111.'45 +48
Warrender Lodgi, Meaddw Place,
Warrend& Park, Old tonib in, 111.
Warrender Park Crescent, 111. 46
Warrender Park Road, 111. 46
Warrenders of Lochend, The family,
111. 45
Warriston, Lord, I. 226, 111. 9;
Bishop Burnet's account of him,
111.99; hisson,III. IOI
loo
111. 46
Provost 111. 46
11. 348 111.29
46
Warriston, Abduction of Lady, 111.
WarASton, 111. 96, 306, 321; iu
Warriston cemetery, I. 155,111.57,
WarristoA'n Close I. 223 224 11.
1x5; Messrs. Cdmbers':printkig
office, I. zq, 226; Sir Thomas
Caig's house, I. 226
Warriston Crescent, 111.95, IO~,
Warriston House, 111. *97,98,101,
98. execution of 111. 9
hitsory, 111. 98
111. 83 10,) 307
125
Gallery, 11. 89
Warriston's Land 111. gg
Water-colour coliection, National
Water Gate, The, I. 43, 59. 11. z.
114, 182, 185, 191, 202. zog, 217,
751 77, 83,86, 87,907 91,1018 102,
103, 118, 132, 164, 165, 178, 251,
of, 111. 42 63 65 67 70 * 7 z .
valley of, f11. bz& its'flocds:
Water Port, The, Leith, 111. ~ g r
Water supply of the city, 1. 82, 326
Water Reservoir, The, Leith, 111.
Waterloo Bridge, 11. r g
Waterloo Place, I. 234, 339,II. 91,
Waterloo Rooms 1. 286
Water's Close, d i t h , 111. 234; old
house in 111. 189
Watson Gptain R.N. 11.91.
Watson: George,' the phinter, 11.
88, go, 91, 151, 19; his brother
Andrew, 111. 161
Watson George 11. 358, 359 (see
Watdn's Hoaiital)
Watson-Gordon, Sir John, 11. 88, rv 9% 1277 143, 15k, 111. 4
w rother's beouest to the dnii
238, 111. 63, 64,68, 71. ' 73, 74,
252, 270, 322, 333. 360; village
111. 71
213
'04, 1073 109
versity, 111. 26
of, 111. 26
p i t a l , d
Watson, Henry George, Bequest
Watson ohn 111. 68; his hos-
Watson of Muirhouse. Marmet. I. I - ,
366
papers, 111. 215
Watson, Robert, and the Stuart
Wawn, W i l l i i S.. the artist, 11.
9' '5'
Wa&n famil The 11. 91
Watson's Col?& Sihool for Boys,
Watson's (George) Hospital, 11.
11. 359,363
:533 347,355,358, 359, *360, 111.
-J- Watson's (John) Hospital, 111. 68;
view from Drumsheugh grounds,
111. "68
Watson's Merchant Academy, 11.
359
Watt, John, Deacon ofthe Trades,
Watt Institution and SchoolofArts,
Watt, Provost, 111. 286
Watt, StatueofJames, 1.380 1 1 . ~ 5
Watt, Kobert, Trial and exkcutiou
of for treason 11 236-238
Waks Hospirai L k h 111. 265;
its founder Ili. 365, :66
Wauchope, d r John h n , 111. 338
Wauchopes of Niddrie, 'lhe, 111.
3=71 30,339
Waverfey Bridge 11. rm
6' Waverley NOV&: I. 211,339.11.
341 ; their popularity on the
stage, 1. 354 351 ; their author
unknown 11. 26. Sir W. Scott
avows deir autdorship, I. 354
Waverley Station 111. 87
Wealth oftheSco;tishChurch,I. 24z
Webb Mrs theactress 1.347
Webs&, d. Alexande; I. go
Webster, the murderer, iI. 183
Webster's Close, I. go
Websten The 11. 2%
Weddal kapdin I. 52, 54
Wedde;burn, Laid Chancellor, 11.
111.29
1- "377, 3792 380, 11. 275
11. 150
287,293
39r
Wedderbum Alexander, Lord
Wedderburn, Patnck, Lord Ches-
Wedderdurn Sir David, I. 358
Wedderbum' Sir Peter I. 172
Wedderburn' David Ii. zgr
Weigh Ho&, Edirhrgh, The, I.
Loughbordugh, I. 271
terhall I. 271
55 5, 328, 334 331. *332 ; the.
L i t 1 111. 238
Weir dobert, themurderer, 111.99.
Weir) of Kirkton, the wizard, 1.3,
31-312, 11. 14, 230 (sec Major
'I'homas Weir)
Weir's Museum, 11. 12s
Well-home Tower, I. 20, 3q36,II.
1x5; ruins of, 1. + z9,.80
Wellington Placz, Leith, 111. 178,.
186
Wellington statue, Register House.
Wellington Street, 11. 218
Wells of Wearie, 11. 322
Welsh, Rev. Dr 11.98 145, 210
Welsh Fusiliers: Scots' dislike of,.
1. 12% 130
Wemyss, Earl of, 11. 27, 157, 170,
194 354 111.365, 366 ; Countess
Wemyss of Elcho Lard 111.94
~ e m v s s . Sir lam&. I.
I. 37% 373
of, t. Id
Wemiss; Sir john 1. 194
Wemyss, L i r d of'II. 65
Wemyss, the arcdtect, 111.88
Wemyss Place 11.115
Wesley John 'at Leith 111.227
Wesleyh Me;hodistCl$pel, 11.335
West, the comedian, 1.342
West Bow, The, I. 3, 4, 37, 3:' 94,
98, 131, m-321, 11. 230, 9 3 .
2371 35)r 375, 111. 34, 19; OlCf.
houses III, 1. * 324
Wesr Bush, The, aunken rock, 111.
307
West Church, I. 334 11. 82, I o-
138, 3+6, 111. %, 73; new o{II.
* 136
West Churchyard, 11.116, 111.156,
West Coates Establihed Church,
West College Street, 11. 274
West Craigmillar Asylum for Blinb.
WCst Cumberland Street, 11. 18%
Wet End Theatre, The, 11. 214
West Highland Fencibles, Mutiny-
West Kirk Act, 'lhe, 11. 133
Wat Kirk parish The 11.346
West Leith villaie, I d . 63
West Loan 111. 51
WestLondAnStreet 11.1 I 1 1 1 . 1 6 ~
West Maitland &et 19. &J
West Meadow, 11. 36:
West Nicolson S t e t , 11. 337
West Port, The, I. 38,42,47, so, 60.. 9 76, ~ v r 1 2 2 , ~ 3 0 , 146,330,334~
1 . 134, 135, 221--230, 241,.
259, 330,111.42, g $ ~ u , 135; old!
houses in the, 11. 224
West Port Street, 11. 226
West Preston Street 111. .p
West Princes S t r d Gardens, 11-
Wes; Regkter'street, I. 114 171,.
West'Kichmond Street, I. 384, 11.
11.214
Females, 111. 51
of the 111. 194, 195
82 *IOI 128 130
372 111. 78
WZer The district 11.221
WesteiCoates, Markon of, 11.116
Western Bank, The, 11. a67
Wetern Duddingston, 11. 316;
house where Prince Charles slept,
Westem hew TO^, The, 11. q-
221 111. ,--Irz
Wedrn or Queen's Dock, 111. 283
Western Reformatory 11.~18
Western Road 111. 1:s
Westhall, Lord, I. zzz
Wet Docks Leith 111. 283
Wettm-all Leut.-ken., 5u G. A.,
Whale fishery of Leith, The early,
Wharton, Duke of, I. 117
Wharton Lane, 11. 221
Wharton Place 11. 359
Whinny Hill ;'he 11. 319
Whim The '111.
WhitAeld, &rge,and the theatre,
11. 316 *317
11. 321,'3E2
111.275

... GENERAL INDEX. Tytlm of Woodhouselee, William, Tytler, the aeronaut, 111. 135 I. 155 U Umbrella First ...

Book 6 p. 391
(Score 0.24)

L UCKENBOOTHS AND PARLIAMENT CLOSE. 189
It used to be a very interesting sight, on a fine summer morning,’ between seven and
eight o’clock, before the Canongate Kirk bell began to ring for the appointed service, to
see the strange groups of Bbe Gowns of all ages,’ from forty-five to ninety and upwards,
assembling in front of the kirk Venerable looking men, bent with the weight of years ;
some lame, others blind, led by a boy or a wife, whose tartan or hodden-grey told of the
remote districts from whence they had come, or perhaps by a rough Highland dog, looking
equally strange on the streets of the ancient burgh ; while all the old bedemen were
clad in their monastic-looking habits, and with large badges on their breasts. It was
curious thus to see pilgrims from the remotest parts of Scotland and the Isles,-the men
of another generation,-annually returning to the capital, and each contriving to arrive
there on the very day of the King’s birth and bounty. The reverend almoner, however,
could scarcely have had a more inattentive congregation,-a fact probably in Bome degree
to be accounted for by many of them understanding nothing but Gaelic. At the close of
the sermon the bread and ale were distributed, along with their other perquisites, and
thereafter the usual benediction closed the services of the day, though generally before
that point was reached the bedemen had disappeared, each one off to wend his way homeward,
and to ‘‘ pass and repass,” as his large badge expressly bore, until the return of the
annual rendezvous.
Shortly after the accession of her present Majesty, whose youth must have had such
an economic effect on the royal bounty, this curious relic of ancient alms-giving waa shorn
of nearly all its most interesting features. Certain members of the Canongate kirksession,
it is said, were scandalised at the exhibition of the butt of ale at the kirk vestry
door, and possibly also at its exciting so much greater interest with the Queen’s bedemen
than any other portion of the established procedure. Whatever be the reason, the annual
church service has been abandoned; the royal almoner’s name no longer appears in the
list of her Majesty’s Scottish household; and the whole business is now managed in
the most matter-of-fact and commonplace style at the Exchequer Chambers in the
Parliament Square, not far from the ancient scene of this annual distribution of the royal
bounty.
At the west end of the Tolbooth a modern addition existed, as appears in our engraving,
rising only to the height of two stories. This was occupied by shops, while the flat
roof formed a platform whereon all public executions took place, after the abandonment
of the Grassmarket in the year 1785. The west gable of the old building bore the appearance
of rude and hasty construction ; it was without windows, notwithstanding that it
afforded the openest and most suitable aspect for light, and seemed as if it had been so
left for the purpose of future extension. The apartments on the ground floor of the main
building were vaulted with stone, and the greater part of them latterly fitted up for
shops,’ until the demolition of the citadel of the old guard in 1785, Boon after which
those on the north side were converted into a guard-house for the accommodation of that
veteran corps.
James Aikman, tailyeour, heia hous, to the palace of Halyrude how” &c.
appear to have been anciently made at the palace.
From thh last entry, the distribution would
For many years the 4th of June, the Birthday of Gorge 111.
In one of theae Yr Horner, father of the eloquent and gifted Francia Homer, M.P., one of the originatom of the
Edinburgh Review, carried on buainees as a silk mercer.

... UCKENBOOTHS AND PARLIAMENT CLOSE. 189 It used to be a very interesting sight, on a fine summer morning,’ ...

Book 10 p. 207
(Score 0.23)

THE HIGH STREET AND NETHER BO W. -25 5
turnpike stair has formerly afforded access to the floor above, and the general construction
of the apartment renders it exceedingly probable that it may have been used as a private
chapel before the Reformation. It is now subdivided by flimsy modern partitions, and
furnishes a residence for several families. The only clue afforded by the title-deeds
to former proprietors of any note, is, that here resided a worthy burgess of last century,
competitor with the author of the Gentle Shepherd, in his earlier occupation, and
the grandfather of one of the most eminent of the modern citizens of Edinburgh,
Lord Francis Jeffrey, with whom this old close was a favourite haunt in his boyhood.
Over the doorway of the adjoining staircase, which projects into the close,
the name of pOpIte @Opt is cut in large old English characters, with a defaced coat
of arms between, and on the lowest crow-step a shield is sculptured with armorial
bearings, and the initials I. H. The dilapidated building retains considerable traces
of former magnificence, as well as undoubted evidence of an early date. The large
windows have been each divided with a mullion and transom, and are finished with
unusually rich mouldings at the sides. The hall on the first floor, which has been an
apartment of considerable size, is now subdivided into separate dwellings by slight
wooden partitions. There can be little doubt, we think, from the style of lettering
in the inscription and the general character of the building, that this is the mansion
of John de Hope, the founder of the Hopetoun family, who came from France in 1537,
in the retinue of the Princess Magdalene, Queen of James V., and who afterwards
became a substantial burgher in the Luckenbooths, visiting the continent from time
to time, and importing French velvets, silks, gold and silver laces, and the like valuable
foreign merchandise.’ It seems to be unquestionable that no other John Hope existed in
Scotland till the reign of Charles I. ; a date long posterior to that of the building. This
was his descendant, Sir John Hope of Craighall, the eldest son of the celebrated Lord
Advocate, who was Lord President of the Court of Session during the Protectorate, and to
whom Charles 11. owed the shrewd, though unpalatable advice, ‘‘ to treat with Cromwell
In the next alley, which is termed Sandilands’ Close, a large and remarkably
substantial stone tenement, forms the chief feature on the east side, and presents an
appearance of great antiquity. The ground floor of this building is vaulted with stone,
and entered by doorways with pointed arches, and over the lower of these is a neat small
pointed window or loop-hole, splayed and otherwise constructed as in early Gothic
buildings. We present a view of one of the most interesting pieces of ancient sculpture
in Edinburgh, which forms part of the internal decorations of this old edifice. It seems
to be intended to represent the offering of the Wise Men, and is well executed in bold
relief, although, like most other internal decorations in the Old Town, plentifully
besmeared with whitewash. It appears to form the end of a very large antique fireplace,
the remainder of which is concealed under panneling and partitions of perhaps a century
old, while another, of the contracted dimensions usual in later times, has been constructed
in the further corner. It is exceedingly probable that much more of this interesting
sculpture remains to be disclosed on the removal of these novel additions of recent date.
-for the one halff of his cloake before he lost the quhole.”
* Coltneea Collectionn, Mait. Club, pp. 16,17.
occupied the two booths east of the Old Church style.
From which it appeara that John de Hope and his non Edward

... HIGH STREET AND NETHER BO W. -25 5 turnpike stair has formerly afforded access to the floor above, and the ...

Book 10 p. 276
(Score 0.23)

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS .
--c-
THE OLD CHURCH OF ST . CUTHBERT?S AND THE NORTH LOCH (after CZffSh of Eldin).-Rrontisrp;eCr.
Keys of the City of Edinburgh . . . . .
Paul?s Work . . . . . . . .
Illustrated Heading ; . . . . . .
The .. Maiden . . . . . . . . .
The ?White Horse? Inn . . . . .
Fac-simile of a View of Edpburgh in 1 5 4 . .
Common SealofEdinburgh . . . . .
Counter Seal of the Above . . . . .
John Kay (1786) . . . . . . .
Urn found at the Dean . . . . . .
The Roman Road. near Portobello-The. ? Fishwives?
Causeway . . . . . . . . .
Arthur?s Seat. from St . Leonards
The Arms of the City of Edinburgh . . . . .
Fac-simile of a View of the Old Town. from a housetop
at theTronChurch . . . . .
Bird?s-eye View of the Castle and City of Edinburgh
Dungeons in the Castle. below Queen Mary?s Room .
. . . .
St . Margaret?s Chapel. Edinburgh Castle . . .
Chancel Arch of S t. Margaret?s Chapel
?Wallace?s Cradle. .. Edinburgh Castle
Edinburgh Castle. as it was before 1573
. . .
. . . . . .
Ruins of the Well-house Tower . . . .
The Royal Lodging or Palace. from the Grand Parade
Prospect of Edinburgh. from the North. 1693 (ajm
EdinburghCastle in 1647 . . . . . .
The Blue Blanket. or Standard of the Incorporated
Tradesof Edinburgh . . . . . .
. James Hamilton. Earl of Arran ; John Erskine. Earl of
Mar; Archibald, Earl ofAngus; The Regent Moray
Plan of Edinburgh. showing the Flodden Wall . .
Edinburgh. from the North and South . . .
John Duke of Albany. and Queen Margaret . .
Edinburgh Castle. from the South-west . . .
Stone which formerly stood over the Barrier-gateway
of Edinburgh Castle . . . . . .
Room in Edinburgh Castle in which James VI . was born
Ancient Postern and Turret near the Queen?s Post .
EntaSlature above the Gateway. Edinburgh Castle .
Reduced Fac-simile of a Plan of the Siege of Edinburgh
Castle in 1573 . . . . . . .
Sleaer) . . . . . Tufacepagt?
Cipher of Lord Darnley and Queen Mary . . .
The Regent Morton . . . . . . .
PAGl
U
xi
I
4
5
2
E
5
Ia
I2
13
I6
16
I7
2a
24
25
28
29
32
33
33
21
36
37
40
41
44
4s
46
46
48
49
51
52
53
PAGE
Covenanter?s Flag . . . . . . . 54
South Side of Edinburgh Castle . . . . 56
Edinburgh from the South. in 1650 . . . . 57
Mons Meg. Edinburgh Castle . . . . . 60
Order of Cavalcade at the Openlng of the First Parliamentof
JamesVII . . . . . . 61
Thumbikin . . . . . . . . 62
Fa-simile of the Medal of the Edinburgh Revolution 8
Club . . . . . . . . . . 63
Edinburgh from Mons Meg Battery . To fut pagc 65
Inner Gateway of the Castle . . . . . 65
Royal Lodging and Half-Moon Battxy . . . 68
The Crown.room. Edinburgh Castle . . . . 69
TheRegaliaof Scotland . . . . . . 72
Plan of the City and Castle of Edinburgh in I742 . 73
Chest in which the Regalia were found . . . 76
Edinburgh. from the King?s Bastion. 182s . . . 77
Edinburgh Castle. from the King?s Mews, 1825 . . 80
Ground Plan of Edinhurgh Castle in the present day . 81
Memorial Cross to the 78th Highlanders. Esplanade.
Prospect of Edinburgh Castle from the East in 1779 .
Edinburgh Castle. from Kirkbraehead . . * 64
Runic Cross. Castle Bank . . . . . . 79
EdinburghCastle . . . . . . . 84
The Castle Hill. 1S45 . . . . . . 58
Allan Ramsay?s House . . . . . . Sg
85
Cannon Ball in Wall of House in Castle Hill . . 90
rhomas Guthrie. D.D. . . . . . . gz
Duke of Gordon?s House. Blair?s Close. Castle Hill . 93
Assembly Hall . . . . . . . . 96
Edinburgh Old Town. from Salisbury Crags To facepage 97
TheOratoryof Maryof Guise . . . . . 97
3ak Door. from the Guise Palace . . . . 98
Lord Semple?s House. Castle Hill . . . . 100
Mary of Guise . . . . . . . . 101
The Lawnmarket. from St . Giles?s. 1825 . . . 105
Lady Stair?s Close . . . . . . . 107
31d Timber-fronted House. Lawnmarket . . . 108
3ladstone?s Land . . . . . . . 109
Plan of Edinburgh. from the Castle to St . Giles?s . 112
Bailie Macmorran?s House . . . . . . 113
Room in Bailie Macmorran?s House . . . . 114
Lantern and Keys of Deacon Brodie . . . . 115
The Lawnmarket. from the SiteoftheWeigh.house. 1825 104

... OF ILLUSTRATIONS . --c- THE OLD CHURCH OF ST . CUTHBERT?S AND THE NORTH LOCH (after CZffSh of ...

Book 2 p. 392
(Score 0.23)

THE LA WNMARKET. I73
to accomplish the foresaid bigging,” &c. This royal mandate not seeming to have produced
the ready acquiescence that was doubtless anticipated, King James, in the following
August, assumes the imperative mode,--“ Whereas the said Robert Gourlay is quarelled
and troubled for diminishing of ye breid and largeness of ye passage thereof, by use and
wont j albeit ye said vennel be na common nor free passage, lyke as ye same hath not been
this long time bygane, being only ane stay hill besouth ye said new wark, and nevir calsayit
nor usit as ane oppen and comoun vennall, lyke as na manner of persones has now, nor
can justlie plead ony richt or entrie to ye said vennal, q’“ be all lawis inviolable observit
in tymes bygane has pertainit, and aucht to pertene to US; ” and to make sure of the
matter this time, his Majesty closes by authorising the buildingof a dyke across the close,
“ notwithstanding that ye said transe and vennall have been at ony time of before, repute
or halden ane comoun and free passage I ”
The result of this mandate of royalty would appear to have been the erection of the house
at the foot of the close,-the only other building that had an entrance by it,-apparently
as the dwelling for his son, John Gourlay. This ancient edifice possessed a national interest
as having been the place where the earliest banking institution in Scotland was establislied.
The Bank of Scotland, or, as it was more generally styled by our ancestors, the Old Bank,
continued to carry on all its. business there, within the narrow alley that bore its name,
until the completion of the extensive erection in Bank Street, whither it removed in 1805.
The house bore the date 1588, the same year as that of the royal mandates authorising its
erection, and on an upright stone panel, on its north front, a device was sculptured representing
several stalks of wheat growing out of bones, with the motto, SPES ALTERA
VITAL The same ingenious emblem of the resurrection may still be seen on the fine
old range of buildings opposite the Canongate Tolbooth.
The only notice of Robert Gourlay we have been able to discover occurs in Calderwood‘
s History, and is worth extracting, for the illustration it affords of the extensive
jurisdiction the kirk was disposed to assume to itself in his day :-“ About this time,
Robert Gourlay, an elder of the Kirk of Edinburgh, was ordeanned to mak his publict
repentance in the kirk upon Friday, the 28th May [1574],for transporting mheate out of
the countrie.” The Regent, however, interfered, and interposed his licence as sufficient
security against the threatened discipline of the church.l
’John Gourlay is styled in some of his titles “ customar,” that is, one who “ taks taxatiounis,
custumis, or dewteis; ’” and his father also, in all probability, occupied a
situation of some importance in the royal household; nor is it to be supposed it was
altogether ‘‘ out of mere love and gade will” that King James was so ready to secure
to him the absolute control over the close wherein he built his house. It was a building
of peculiar strength and massiveness, and singularly intricate in its arrangements, even
for that period. Distinct and substantial stone .stairs led from nearly the same point
to separate parts of the mansion; and on its demolition, a most ingeniously contrived
secret chamber was discovered, between the ceiling of the first and the floor of the second
story, in which were several chests full of old deeds and other papers.’ A carved stone,
at the side of the highest entrance in the close, bore a shield with a martlet on it,
’ Calderwood, voL iii p. 328. ’ Vide Jamieaon’s Scottish Dictionary.
J Now in the Chambers of the Improvements Commission. . .

... LA WNMARKET. I73 to accomplish the foresaid bigging,” &c. This royal mandate not seeming to have ...

Book 10 p. 188
(Score 0.23)

THE HIGH STREET AND NETHER BOW. 263
citizen of wealth and importance, occupying a high office, probably of an ecclesiastical
character, in the royal household, and in his titles is styled Wilter Chepman de Everland.‘
A broad archway, which leads through the modern successor of the old typographer’s
fore tenement, gives entrance to Blackfriars’ Wynd, the largest, and undoubtedly the
most important, of all the ancient closes of Edinburgh. It derives its name from having
formed the approach to the monastery of the Dominicans, or Black Friars, founded by
Alexander 11. in 1230, which etood on the site of the Old High School. This royal foundation,
which formed for a time the residence of its founder, received from him, among
other endowments, a gdt of the whole ground now occupied by the wpd to erect houses
thereon. For fully five centuries this ancient alley may be said to have formed one of
the most aristocratic districts of the Scottish capital; and it continued even after the
Reformation to be the chosen place of residence of some of the chief Scottish ecclesiastics.
It possessed, till a few years since, much of the fine antique picturesqueness that anciently
pertained to it, as will be seen in the accompanying view, drawn in 1837 ; but since then
a rapid demolition of its decaying tenements has taken place ; and although it still retains
some exceedingly interesting relics of the past, the general aspect of the €‘reading Friar$
Vennel has given place to rude and tasteless modern erections, or to ruinous desolation.!’
We have already noticed, in the introductory sketch, several of the most memorable
incidents of which this ancient alley has been the scene. There some of the keenest
struggles of the rival factions took place during the famous contest known as ‘‘ Cleanse the
Causeway ; ” down its straitened thoroughfare the victorious adherents of the Earl of Angus
rushed to assault the palace of the Archbishop of Glasgow at the foot of the wynd, and
from thence to wreak their rengeance on his person in the neighbouring church of the
.Black Friars, whither he fled for shelter. In the reign of James VI., in 1588, it was the
arena of a similar contest between the retainers of the Earl of Bothwell and Sir William
Stewart, when the latter was slain there by the sword of his rival. The next remarkable
incident that occurred was in 1668, when Sharpe, Archbishop of St Andrews, was seated
in his coach at the head of Blackfriars’ Wynd, waiting for the Bishop of Orkney, whose
residence would appear from this to have been in the wynd. Just as the Bishop was
approaching the vehicle, Mitchell, the fanatic assassin already described,’ and an intimate
acquaintance of the no less notorious Major Weir,’ aimed a pistol at the Primate, the
contents of which missed him, but dangerously wounded the Bishop of Orkney, who at the
moment was stepping into the coach. Since then the old alley has quietly progressed in
its declining fortunes to a state of desertion and ruin.
On the west side, near the head of the wynd, a decorated lintel bore the inscription and
device represented in the accompanying woodcut, with the date 1564. The ground floor
of this building consisted of one very large apartment, with a massive stone pillar in the
centre, which formed the place of worship to which the adherents of the covenanted kirk
retreated on the settlement of ecclesiastical affairs at the Revolution ; and it is described,
l It may be remarked here that Chepman’s spouse, Agnea Coburn, is mentioned in the same titles, showing that he
waa not bound by ecclesiastical vows of celibacy.
While the west side of Blackfriars’ Wynd still stands, the east, with several closes adjacent, a description of which
is given in subsequent pages of this chapter, has been taken down, in connection with plana for the improvement of the
city.
a Ante, p. 101. ‘ RavaiUac Redivivus, Lond. 1678, p. 12.

... HIGH STREET AND NETHER BOW. 263 citizen of wealth and importance, occupying a high office, probably of an ...

Book 10 p. 285
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YAMES V. TO ABDICATION OF QUEEN MARE 75
throughout the country, requiring them to march with their adherents to Edinburgh, to
reduce its citizens to a sense of duty; but the magistrates having sent a humble representation
to her of their loyalty and desire to stay the popular violence, she contented
herself with reqniring the immediate liberation of the prisoners. The Queen, however,
shortly after ordered the Provost to be degraded from his office, and another to be
elected in his stead.’
On the 28th of July 1565, Darnley was proclaimed King at the Market Cross of Edinburgh.
The banns had already been published in the usual form in the Canongate Kirk,’
and on the following day, being Sunday, at six o’clock in the morning, he was married to
the Queen, in the chapel of Holyrood House, by the Dean of Restalrig. During several
days, nothing was heard at the Court but rejoicing and costly banquets, while the people
.were treated with public sports.a The marriage, however, excited the strongest displeasure
of the reformers. Knox, on learning of its proposal, regarded it with especial indignation,
and in one of his boldest and most vehement harangues, in St Giles’s Church, challenged
the nobles and other leaders of the Congregation, for betraying the cause of God, by their
inaction. “ I see,” said he, suddenly stretching out his arms, as if he would leap from
the pulpit and arrest the passing vision, ‘( I see before me your beleagured camp. I hear
the tramp of the horsemen as they charged you in the streets of Edinburgh ; and most of
all, is that dark and dolorous night now present to my eyes, in which all of you, my Lords,
iu shame and fear, left this town-God forbid I should ever forget it! ” He concluded
with solemn warning against the royal marriage, and the judgments it involved.. Such
was his vehemence, says Melvil, that, ‘‘ he was like to ding the pulpit in blads, and flee out
of it ! ” This freedom of speech gave general offence, and Knox was summoned before
the Queen ; he came to Court after dinner, and was brought into her cabinet by Erakine of
-Dun, one of the superintendents of the kirk; but the presence of royalty was no restraint.
She wept ay she listened to his bold harangues ; and he left her at length, as she yielded
anew to a passionate flood of tears. As he passed from the outer chamber, he paused in
the midst of a gay circle of the ladies of the royal household, in their gorgeous appare1,-
and addressed them in a grave style of banter on the pity that the silly soul could not
carry all these fine garnishings with it to heaven ! Queen Mary dried her tears, and took
no further notice of this interview, but Knox must have been regarded amid the gay
haunts of royalty, at Holyrood, like the skull that checked the merriment of an old
Egyptian feast.
He was
fully three years younger than her, of royal blood, and a near heir to the Crown ; but in
every other respect totally unworthy of her regard. He appears to have been made the
complete tool of the designing nobles. On the 9th of March 1566, the Queen was at
supper in her cabinet, at Holyrood House, in company with the Countess of Argyle and
Lord Robert Stuart, her natural sister and brother, Beaton of Creich, Arthur Erskine,
and David Rizzio, her secretary, when her husband Darnley conducted a body of armed
assassins into his apartments in the north-west tower of the Palace, immediately below
The Queen’s marriage to Darnley was indeed fatal to her future happiness.
Knox’e Hist., pp. 325, 326. ’ “The Buick of the Kirk of the Canagait, July 1565.” ’ Chalmera’s Queen Mary, vol. i. p. ,146.
Edio. Mag., Oct. 1817, p. 33, apud ChaImera ‘ MelvU’s Diary, p. 26. Tytler, vol. vi. p. 330,

... V. TO ABDICATION OF QUEEN MARE 75 throughout the country, requiring them to march with their adherents to ...

Book 10 p. 82
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408 MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH.
reflections on “ this worthy and memorable motto! ” The visit of Taylor to the Palace
and Chapel was almost immediately after that of James VI. to Scotland, so that he no
doubt saw them in all the splendour which had been prepared for the King’s reception.
The palace was probably abandoned to neglect and decay after the last visit of Charles I.
in 1641, otherwise it is probable that Cromwell would have taken up his abode there during
his residence in Edinburgh. The improvements, however, effected by Charles, both on the
Palace and Abbey Church, appear to have been considerable. One beautiful memorial of
his residence there is the elaborately carved sun-dial which still adorns the north garden of
the Palace, and is usually known as Queen Mary’s Dial, although the cipher of her grandson,
with those of his Queen and the Prince of Wales, are repeated on its most prominent
carvings. The Palace was converted into barracks by Cromwell soon after his arrival in
Edinburgh, and as Nicoll relates, ‘ I ane number of the Englisches futemen being ludgit
within the Abay of Haly Rud HOUSi,t fell out that upone an Weddinsday, being the
threttene day of November 1650, the hail1 royal1 pairt of that palice wes put in flame, and
brint to the ground on all the pairtes thairof.’’I The diarist, however, has afterwards
qualified this sweeping assertion by adding, “ except a lyttel ; ” and there is good reason
for believing that the oldest portion of the Palace, usually known as James the Fifth’s
Tower, entirely escaped the conflagration, as its furniture, if not so old as Queen Mary’R
time, certainly at least dates in the reign of Charles I., some of it being marked with the
cipher of that monarch and his Queen, Henrietta Maria. A fac-simile of a rare print, after
a drawing by Gordon of Rothiemay, in the first volume of the Bannatyne Miscellany,
preserves the only view of the Palace that has come down to us as it existed prior to this
conflagration. The main entrance appears to occupy nearly the same site as at present.
It. is flanked on either side by round embattled towers, or rather semicircular bow windows,
between which is a large panel, surmounting the grand gateway, and bearing the royal
arms of Scotland. A uniform range of building, pierced with large windows, extends on
either side, and is flanked on the north by the great tower which still remains, but finished
above the battlements asrepresented in the vignette on page 34. The empty panels also
which still remain in the front turrets appear to hare been filled with sculptured armorial
bearings. No corresponding tower existed at the south-west corner of the building until
its remodelling by Sir William Bruce.
The Palace was speedily rebuilt by order of the Protector, but his work came under
revision soon after the Restoration. The directions given by Charles 11. for its alteration
and completion enter into the minutest details, among which such commands as the following
were probably dictated with peculiar satisfaction ;-(< Wee doe hereby order you
to cause that parte thereof which was built by the usurpers, and doth darken the court,
to be taken down.”= The zeal with which both Charles 11. and James VIL devoted.
1 Nicoll’s Diary, p. 35.
a Royal warranta. Liber. Cart. p. cxxk The royal orders would appear to have been occasionally departed from,
e.g., the Ear1 of Lauderdale writes, by command of Charles II., in 1671 :-“His Maj“. likes the front very well as it is
Designed, provided the gate where the King’a coach is to come in be large enough, Aa also he likes the taking doune of
that narrow upper parte which was built in Cromwell’a time. Hee likes not the covering of all that betwixt the two
great toures with platfoipl at the second storie, but would have it heightened to a third storie, as all the inner court is,
and sklaited with skaily as the rest of the court is to be ; ” in all which respecta the original design has evidently been
carried out, notwithstanding his Majesty’s directions to the contrary.

... MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH. reflections on “ this worthy and memorable motto! ” The visit of Taylor to the ...

Book 10 p. 447
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402 MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH.
for the chaplain, and four poor brethren, to have their yearly food, and perpetual sustentation
within the said hospital ; and for buying of their habits every twa year once, I mortify
these annualrents under-written,” &c.’ After very minute directions for the appointment
of the chaplain and the management of the hospital, it is provided :-‘‘ And farder, the
said chaplane, every gear, once in the year, for the said hlichael and Jonet, sal1 make suffrages,
which is, ‘I am pleased,’ and ‘ direct me, 0 Lord; ’ with ane Mess of rest, ‘being
naked, he clothed me ; ’ with two wax candles burning on the altar. To the whilk suffrages
and mess, he shall cause ring the chapel bell the space of ane quarter of an hour, and that
all the foresaid poor, and others that shall be thereintill, shall be present at the foresaid
mess with their habites, requesting all these that shall come in to hear the said mess to
pray for the said souls. And farder, every day of the blessed Mary Magdallen, patron of
the foresaid hospital, and the day of the indulgence of the said hosjital, and every other
day of the yeas, the said chaplaine shall offer up all the oblations, and for every oblation
. shall have twa wax candles upon the altar, and twa at the foot of the image of the patron
in twa brazen candlesticks, and twa wax torches on the feast of the nativity of our Saviour,
Pasch, and Whitsunday, of the dap of Mary Magdallen, and of the days of the indulgences
granted to the said hospital, and doubleing at other great feasts, with twa wax candles
alenerly.” Such were the provisions for the due observance of all the formulary of the services
of the Church, which the chaplain on his induction was bound ‘‘ to give his great oath,
by touching the sacred Evangile,” that he would neither infringe nor suffer to be altered.
It is probable that the chapel was hardly built ere the whole schefke of its founders was
totally overthrown. Certain evidence at least tends to show, that neither the steeple nor
its fine-toned bell ever fulfilled the will of the’foundress, by summoning the bedemen and
all who chose to muster at the call to pray for the repose of the founders’ souls. The
chapel is adorned at its east end with the royal arms, the city arms, and the armorial bearing
of twenty-two corporations, who unite to form the ancient body known as the United
Incorporation of Hammermen, the guardians of the sacred banner, the Blue Blanket, on
the unfurling of which every liege burgher of the kingdom is bound to answer the summons.
The north and east walls of the chapel are ’almost entirely occupied with a series of tablets
recording the gifts of numerous benefactors. The earliest of these is probably a daughter
of the founder, “ Isobel Macquhane, spouse to Gilbt Lkuder, merchant burgess of Edin’,
who bigged ye crose house, and mortified &50 yearly out of the Cousland, anno 1555.”
Another records that, “John Spens, burgess of Edinburgh, bestowed 100 lods of
Wesland lime for building the stipel of this chapell, anno 1621.” Here, therefore, is the
date of erection of the steeple, which receives corroboration from its general features, with
the old-fashioned gargoils in the form of ornamental cannons, each with a bullet ready
to issue from its mouth. appears
to have been the subject of still further delay, as the bell bears this legend around it, iu
Roman characters:-SOLI D E 0 GLORIA * MICHAEL BURGERHUYB ME
FECIT, ANKO 1632; and in smaller characters, GOD BLIS THE EIAYMEBMEN OF UGDALENE
CHAPEL.” The bell is still rung according to the will of the foundress, however
. different be the objects answered by its warning note ; and it was further applied, soon
after its erection, to summon the inhabitants of the neighbouring district to the parish
.
The furnishing of the steeple with ‘‘ The Chapel Bell
l Hist. of the Blue Blanket, &e., by Alexander Pennecuick, p. 46-48.

... MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH. for the chaplain, and four poor brethren, to have their yearly food, and perpetual ...

Book 10 p. 441
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