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266 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith.
It was built accordingly, and is for the reception
and maintenance of men and women in destitute
circumstances, of fifty years of age and upwards, in
the following priority : first, persons of the name
of Watt; second, natives of the parish of South
Leith, of whatever name ; third, persons, of whatever
name, who have constantly resided in that
parish, for at least ten years preceding their admission
; and fourth, natives of or persons who have
constantly resided in the city of Edinburgh or
county of Midlothian, provided such persons are
not pensioners, or in receipt of an allowance from
any charitable institution except the Parochial
Board of South Leith.
The trustees acquired what was formerly a golf
house, with its ground, and there built the hospital,
which was opened for inmates in the spring of
1862. There are eleven trustees and governors,
including, ex o.$icw, the Provost of Leith, the Master
of the Trinity House, and the Master cif the
Merchant Company of Leith, with other officials,
including a surgeon and matron.
South Leith Free Church confronts the west
side of the Links, and has a handsome treble-faced
Saxon fapde.
The year 1880 saw a literal network of new
streets running up from the Links, in the direction
of Hermitage Hill and Park. According to a
statement in the Sotsman, an enterprising firm of
builders, who had obtained, five years previously,
a feu from an industrial society, which had started
building on the ground known as the Hermitage,
during that period had erected buildings which
were roughly estimated at the value of A;35,ooo.
These edifices included villas in East Hermitage
Place, self-contained houses in Noble Place and
Park Vale, while sixty houses had been erected in
Rosevale Place, Fingzie Place, and Elm Place. A
tenement of dwelling-houses, divided into halfflats,
was subsequently constructed at Hermitage
Terrace, and the remaining sites of this area have
also now been occupied.
Eastward from them, the villas of Claremont Park
extend to Pimiefield and Seafield; and hence, the
once lonely Links of Leith, where the plague-stricken
found their graves, where duels might be fought,
and deserters shot, are now enclosed by villas and
houses of various kinds.
At one part of the northern side there are a
bowling-green and the extensive rope walks
which adjoin the ropery and sail-cloth manufactory.
The ?? walks? occupy ground averaging fifteen hundred
feet in length, by five hundred in breadth.
At th.e extreme east end of the Links stand
Seafield Baths, built on the ground once attached
to Seafield House, overlooking one of the finest
parts of a delightful beach, They were built in
1813, at a cost of jt;8,000, in &so shares, each
shareholder, or a member of his family, having a
perpetual right to the use of the baths.
The structure is capacious and neat, and the
hotel, with its suite of baths, is arranged on a plan
which has been thought worthy of imitation in
more recent erections of the same class at other
sea-bathing resorts.
Their erection must have been deemed, though
only in the early years of the present century, a
vast improvement upon the primitive style of
bathing which had been in use and wont during
the early part of the century preceding, and before
that time, if we may judge from the following
suggestive advertisement in the Edinburgh Courant
for 30th May, 1761 :-
?Uth Bathing in Sea Water-This sort of
bathing is much recommended and approved of, but
the want of a machine, or wooden house on wheels,
such as are used at sea-baths in England, to undress
and dress in, and to carry those who intend bathing
to a proper depth of water, hath induced many in
this part of the country to neglect the opportunity of
trying to acquire the benefits to health it commonly
gives. To accommodate those who intend bathing
in the sea, a prpper house on wAeeZs, With horse and
servants, are to be hired on application to James
Morton, at Jarnes Farquharson?s, at the sign of the
?Royal Oak,? near the Glass House, who will
give constant attendance during the remainder of
the season; each person to pay one shilling for
each time they bathe.?
This, then, seems to have been the first bathingmachine
ever seen in Scotland
On the z 2nd December, I 789, the lonely waste
where Seafield Baths stand now was the scene of
a fatal duel, which took place on the forenoon of
that day, between Mr. Francis Foulke, of Dublin,
and an officer in the army, whose name is given
in the Edinburgh Magazine of that year merely as
?Mr. G-.? They had quarrelled, and posted
each other publicly at a coffee-house, in the fashion
then common and for long after. A challenge
ensued, and they met, attended each by a second.
They fired their pistols twice without effect; but
so bitter was their animosity, that they re-loaded,
and fired a third time, when Foulke fell, with a
ball in his heart.
He was a medical student at the university,
where he had exhibited considerable talent, and in
the previous year had been elected President or
the Natural History Society and of the Royal
Medical Society of Edinburgh. ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith. It was built accordingly, and is for the reception and maintenance of men and ...

Book 6  p. 266
(Score 0.19)

Parliament House.] THE COLLEGE OF JUSTICE. -
a vote among themselves in favour of that protest,
declaring it to be founded on the laws of the realm,
for which they were prosecuted before Parliament,
and sharply reprimanded, a circumstance which
gave great offence to the nation..
The affairs ot the Faculty are managed by a
Dean, or President, a Treasurer, Clerk, and selected
Council ; and, besides the usual branches
of a liberal education, those who are admitted
.as advocates must have gone through a regular
course of civil and Scottish law.
Connected with the Court of Session is the
Society of Clerks, or Writers to the Royal Signet,
whose business it is to subscribe the writs that
pass under that signet in Scotland, and practise as
attorneys before the Courts of Session, Justiciary,
and the Jury Court The office of Keeper of the
Signet is a lucrative one, but is performed by a
deputy. The qualifications for admission to this
body are an apprenticeship for five years with one of
the members, after two years? attendance at the University,
and on a course of lectures on conveyancing
given by a lecturer appointed by the Society, and
also on the Scottish law class in the University.
Besides these Writers to the Signet, who enjoy
the right of conducting exclusively certain branches
.of legal procedure, there is another, but? inferior,
society of practitioners, who act as attorneys before
the various Courts, in which they were of long
standing, but were only incorporated in 1797, under
the title of Solicitors before the Supreme Courts,
The Judges of the Courts of Session and Justiciary,
with members of these before-mentioned
corporate bodies, and the officers of Court, form
the College of Justice instituted by James V., and
of which the Judges of the Court of Session enjoy
the title of Senators.
The halls for the administration of justice immediately
adjoin the Parliament House. The Court
af Session is divided into what are nanied the
Outer and Inner Houses. The former consists of
five judges, or Lords Ordinary, occupying separate
Courts, where cases are heard for the first time;
tbe latter comprises two Courts, technically known
.as the First and Second Divisions. Four Judges
sit in each of these, and it is before them that
litigants, if dissatisfied with the Outer House decision,
may bring their cases for final judgment,
unless .afterwards they indulge in the expensive
luxury of appealing to the House of Lords.
The Courts of the Lords Ordinary enter from
the corridor at the south end of the great hall, and
Those of the Inner House from a long lobby on the
east side of it.
Although the .College of Justice was instituted
by James V., and held its first sederunt in the
old Tolbooth on the 27th of May, 1532, it
was first projected by his uncle, the Regent-
Duke of Albany. The Court originally consisted
of the Lord Chancellor, the Lord President,
fourteen Lords Ordinary, or Senators (one-half
clergy and one-half laity), and afterwards an indefinite
number of supernumerary judges, designated
Extraordinary Lords. The annual expenses of
this Court were defrayed from the revenues of
the clergy, who bitterly, but vainly, remonstrated
against this taxation. It may not be uninteresting
to give here the names of the first members of the
Supreme Judicature :-
Alexander, Abbot of Cambuskenneth, Lord
President ; Richard Bothwell, Rector of Askirk
(whose father was Provost .of Edinburgh in the
time of James 111,); John Dingwall, Provost of
the Trinity Church; Henry White, Dean of
Brechin ; William Gibson, Dean of Restalrig ;
Thomas Hay, Dean of Dunbar; Robert Reid,
Abbot of Kinloss ; George Kerr, Provost of
Dunglass ; Sir William Scott of Balwearie ; Sir
John Campbell of Lundie ; Sir James Colville
of Easter Wemyss; Sir Adam Otterburne of
Auldhame ; Nicolas Crawford. of Oxengangs ; Sir
Francis Bothwell (who was provost of the city
in 1535); and James Lawson of the Highriggs.
The memoirs which have been preserved of
the administration of justice by the Court of
Session in the olden time are not much to its
honour. The arbitrary nature of it is referred to
by Buchanan, and in the time of James VI. we
find the Lord Chancellor, Sir Alexander Seaton
(Lord Fyvie in 1598), superintending the lawsuits
of a friend, and instructing him in the mode and
manner in which they should be conducted. But
Scott of Scotstarvit gives us a sorry account of
this peer, who owed his preferment to Anne of
Denmark. The strongest proof of the corrupt
nature of the Court is given us by the -4ct passed
by the sixth parliament of. James VI., in 1579,
by which the Lords were prohibited, ? No uther be
thamselves, or be their wives, or servantes, to take
in ony times cumming, bud, bribe, gudes, or geir,
fra quhat-sum-ever person or persones presently
havand, or that hereafter sal1 happen to have
ony actions or causes persewed before them,?
under pain of confiscation (Glendoick?s Acts, fol.).
The necessity for this law plainly evinws that
the secret acceptance of bribes must have been
common among the judges of the time; while,
in other instances, the warlike spirit of the people
paralysed the powers of the Court.
When a noble, or chief of rank, was summoned tu ... House.] THE COLLEGE OF JUSTICE. - a vote among themselves in favour of that protest, declaring it to ...

Book 1  p. 167
(Score 0.19)

314 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. (The West Bow.
thundering back again; being neither more nor
less than Satan come in one of his best equipages
to take home the major and his sister after
they had spent a night?s leave of absence in their
terrestrial dwelling.?
Scott also tellsus inhis ?Letters on Demonology,?
that bold indeed was the urchin who approached
the gloomy house, at the risk of seeing thC major?s
enchanted staff parading the desolate apartments,
.or hearing the hum of the necromantic wheel which
procured for his sister such a reputation as a spinner.
About the beginning of the present century,
according to the author above quoted, when Weir?s
house was beginning to be regarded with less
superstitious terror, an attempt was made by the
luckless proprietor to find one bold enough to
;become his tenant, and such an adventurer was
yrocured in the person of a dissipated old soldier
named William Patullo, whose poverty rendered
him glad to possess a house at any risk, on the low
terms at which it was offered; and the greatest
interest was felt by people of all ranks in the
city, on its becoming known that Major Weir?s
house was about to have a mortal tenant at last !
Patullo and his spouse felt rather flattered by
the interest they excited ; but on the first night, as
the venturesome couple lay abed, fearful and wakeful,
?a dim uncertain light proceeding from the
sathered embers of their fire, and all being silent
around them-they suddenly saw a form? like
that of a calf, which came forward to the bed,
and setting its fore-feet upon the stock, looked
steadfastly at the unfortunate pair. When it had
contemplated them thus for a few minutes, to their
great relief it took itself away, and, slowly retiring,
vanished from their sight. As might be expected,
they deserted the house next morning; and for
another half century no other attempt was made to
embank this part of the world of light from the
aggressions of the world of darkness.?
But even the world of spirits could not withstand
the Improvement Commission, and the
spring of 1878 saw the house of the wizard
numbered with the things that are no more in this
quarter of Edinburgh, and to effect the removal of
which the Commissioners gave freely the sum of
~ 4 0 0 , 0 0 0 .
Behind the abode of the major in the West Bow,
but entered from Johnstone?s Close, Lawnmarket,
was another very remarkable old house which was
demolished about the same time.
Memorials,?
that it exhibits an interior ?? abounding with plain
arched recesses and corbelled projections, scattered
throughout in the most irregular and lawless fashion,
Of this building Wilson says in his
and with narrow windows thrust into the oddest
corners, or up even above the very cornice of the
ceiling, in order to catch every wandering ray of
light, amid the jostling of its pent-up neighbourhood.
A view of the largest apartment is given in the
Abbotsford edition of the Waverley novels, under
the name of the ? Hall of the Knights of St. John,
St John?s Close, Canongate.? ? But he adds that he
had failed in every attempt to obtain any clue to the
early history of this mysterious edifice which tradition
thus associated with the soldier-monks of Torphichen.
Discoveries made in the course of its demolition
added to the mystery concerning it. In the stair
leading from the court to the hall there was a
quaint holy-water font; and in clearing out the
interior, it was found that the ceiling had at one
time been beautifully painted with flowers and
geometric designs. In the great open chimney-place
of the hall there were, singularly enough, two mall
windows; and in the heart of the massive walls
were found secret stairs that led from the hall to
rooms above it
In addition to these secret passages, the walls
disclosed four recesses that had been faced with
stone, and which concealed the relics of more than
one crime or mystery that will never be unravelled.
One held the skeleton of a child, with its cap and
part of its dress; and in the other there were
quantities of human bones. In a built-up cupboatd
a large vertebral bone of a whale was discovered.
?? The beams of the hall,? says the Scotsman of 8th
February, 1878, ?( and indeed of the whole house,
were of oak, which, according to tradition, was
grown on the Burghmuir, and, with the exception
of the ends which had been built into the wall, the
wood was found to be perfectly sound and beautifully
grained.?
Immediately opposite the close that led to the
house of Major Weir, and occupying nearly the site
of the present St John?s Free Church, stood an old
tenement, which bore the date 1602, with the arms
of the Somerville family, and the initials P. S. and
J. W., being those of a once worthy and wealthy
magistrate and his wife, whose son Bartholomew
Somerville was a benefactor to the University of
Edinburgh, when that institution was in its infancy.
The architrave of the door bore also the legend
IN. DOMINO. CONFIDO.
A narrow spiral stair led to a lofty wainscoted
room, with a fine carved oak ceilipg, on the second
floor. This was the first Edinburgh Assembly
Room, off which was a closet or recess, forming an
out-shot over the street, wherein the musickm ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. (The West Bow. thundering back again; being neither more nor less than Satan come in ...

Book 2  p. 314
(Score 0.19)

died, in the old house, of the plague. His widow
survived him, and the street was named Lady
Gray?s Close till the advent of Lady Stair, in whose
time the house had a terraced garden that descended
towards the North Loch.
Lady Eleanor Campbell, widow of the great
marshal and diplomatist, John Earl of Stair, was
by paternal descent related to one of the most
celebrated historical figures of the seventeenth
century, being the grand-daughter of the Lord High
Chancellor Loudon, whose talents and influence on
the Covenanting side procured him the enmity of
Charles I.
In her girlhood she had the misfortune to be
united to James Viscount Primrose, of Castlefield,
who died in 1706, a man of dissipated habits and
intolerable temper, who treated her so barbarously
that there were times when she had every reason to
feel that her life was in peril. One morning she
was dressing herself before her mirror, near an open
window, when she saw the viscount suddenly appear
in the room behind her with a drawn rapier in his
hand. He had softly opened the door, and in the
mirror she could see that his face, set white and
savage, indicated that he had nothing less than
murder in his mind, She threw herself out ol
window into the street, and, half-dressed as she
was, fled, with great good sense, to Lord Primrose?s
mother, who had been Mary Scott of Thirlstane,
and received protection ; but no attempt was made
to bring about a. reconciliation, and, though they
had four children, she never lived with him again,
and soon after he went abroad.
During his absence there came to Edinburgh a
certain foreign conjuror, who, among other occuli
powers, professed to be able to inform those preseni
of the movements of the absent, however far the)
might be apart; and the young viscountess wa:
prompted by curiosity to go with a lady friend tc
the abode of the wise man in the Canongate, wear
ing over their heads, by way of disguise, the tartar
plaid then worn by women of the lower classes
After describing the individual in whose move
ments she was interested, and expressing a desirt
to know what he was then about, the conjuror lec
her before a large mirror, in which a number o
colours and forms rapidly assumed the appearanct
of a church with a marriage party before the altar
and in the shadowy bridegroom shk instant11
recognised her absent husband ! She gazed upor
the delineation as if turned to stone, while thc
ceremonial of the marriage seemed to proceed, anc
the clergyman to be on the point of bidding thc
bride and bridegroom join hands, when suddenly i
gentleman in whose face she recognised a brothel
)f her own, came forward, and paused. His face
tssumed an expression of wrath ; drawing his sword
ie rushed upon the bridegroom, who also drew to
iefend himself ; the whole phantasmagoria then
iecame tumultuous and indistinct, and faded comiletely
away. When the viscountess reached home
;he wrote a minute narrative of the event, noting
;he day and hour. This narrative she sealed up in
?resence of a witness and deposited it in a cabinet
Soon after this her brother returned from his travels
tbroad-which brother we are not told, and she
lad three : Hugh the Master of Loudon, Colonel
rohn Campbell of Shankeston, and James, who was
Colonel of the Scots Greys, and was killed at
Fontenoy. She asked him if he heard aught of
:he viscount in his wanderings. He answered,
iniously, ?I wish I may never again hear the
name of that detestable personage mentioned !?
On being questioned he confessed to ?( having met
nis lordship under very strange circumstances.?
While spending some time at Rotterdam he made
the acquaintance of a wealthy merchant who had
% very beautiful daughter, an only child, who, he
informed him, was on the eve of her marriage with
5 Scottish gentleman, and he was invited to the
wedding as a countryman of the bridegroom. He
went accordingly, and though a little too late for
the commencement of the ceremony, was yet in
time to save an innocent girl from becoming the victim
of his own brother-in-law, Viscount Primrose !
Though the deserted wife had proved her willingness
to believe in the magic mirror, by having
committed to writing what she had seen, yet she
was so astonished by her brother?s, tidings, that she
nearly fainted; but something more was to be
learned still. She asked her brother on what day
the circumstance took place, and having been
informed, she gave him her key, and desired him
to bring to her the sealed paper. On its being
opened, it was then found, that at the very moment
when she had seen the roughly-interrupted nuptial
ceremony it had actually been in progress.
Primrose died, as we have said, in the year before
the Union. His widow was still young and beautiful,
but made a resolution never again, after her past
experience, to become a wife ; but the great Earl
Stair, who had been now resident some twenty
years in Edinburgh, and whose public and private
character was irreproachable, earnestly sued for
her hand, yet she firmly announced her intention
of remaining unwedded ; and in his love and desperation
the Earl bethought him of an expedient
indicative of the roughness and indelicacy of the
age. By dint of powerfully bribing her household
he got himself introduced over-night into a small ... in the old house, of the plague. His widow survived him, and the street was named Lady Gray?s Close till ...

Book 1  p. 103
(Score 0.19)

468 INDEX.
Nairn, S i Robert, 193
Katharine, 193
Nairn’s Close, 146, 148
Namur, Count of, 7
Napier of Xerchiston, 208, 348
Tomb of, 393, 428
Lord, 243
Francis Lord, 308
Sir Archibald, 372
of Wrychtishousis. See Il“rychlielrm&
Negro eervants, 290
Nether Bow, 17, 36, 55, 68, 82, 83, 87, 88, 91, 95
Port, 27, 44, 50, 71,110,111,114, 277
Last Speech and Confession of the,
449
New Assembly Close, 248
College, 118, 135
Street, Canongate, 284
Town Antiquities of, 369-376
The Plan of, 371
St James’s Chapel, 368
Newhaven, 49,368
Nicol, Willie, 181
Nicoleon, Lady, 346
Street, 346
Niddry’s Wynd, 55, 89,177,198
Nimmo, Mise, 346
Nisbet of Dirleton, 140, 299
of Dean, 157. See Dean
Alexander, 374
Norman Architecture, 12,128, 129, 379, 405
Norrie, Old, 138, 149, 168, 312
Norrie’s Workshops, 312
Norris of Speke Hall, The Family of, 406
North Bridge, 355
.
Loch, 60, 109, 162, 180, 251, 280, 376, 454,
455
Norwell, Katharine, Widow of Bassendyne the
Printer, 396
Nose Pinching, the Punishment of, 456
Notre Dame, Cathedral of, 60
Nottingham Castle, 9
Ogilvie, S i Alexander, 239
Lady, 123
Oikis House, William, 277
Old Bank, 173
Close, 172,440
Calton BuryingOround, 353
Fishmarket Close, 242
Fleshmarket Close, Canongate, 278
High School Close, Canongate, 279
Stamp Office Close, 242, 243
Kirk, or Old Church, 385,391
Style, 198. See Stinking Style
Oliver, Lord, 283
Oliver’s Land, 282
Orange, Prince of, 105
Orchardfield, 136
Orkney, St Clair, Earl of, 266
Adam Bothwell, Bishop of, 101, 191, 226,280,
Monument of, 409
292,373,405
Ormiston, Laird of, 78
Orphan’s Hospital, 114, 288
Park, 288
Otterburn, Sir Adam, Provost, 50
Palfrey’s Inn, Cowgate, 330
Palmer’s Land, 347
Panmure, Earl of, 301
House, 301
Close, 301
Paoli, General, 160
Paradin’s Emblems, 150
Parliament Close, 108,118, 162,170, 203
House, 89, 97, 361
Stairs, 193,212,325, 330
Riding of, 204
Square, Leith, 361
Paterson, John, 301
Nicol, 302
Bishop, 305
Paterson’s Land, Canongate, 301
Paton, George, the Antiquary, 163, 181,247
Patrick, Alexander, 160
Paulitius, Dr Joanues, 281
Paul‘s Work, 352
Paunch Market, Leith, 363
Peebles Wynd, 246
Pennycuik, Alexander, 20
Perjurers, Boring the Tongues of, 455
Perth, Earl of, 105, 296
Pest. See Plague
Philiphaugh, Lord, 231
Physic Gardens, 117
Physicians’ Hall, Oeorge Street, 376
Picardy, Village of, 375
Piera Leland, 6
Pillans, Professor, 168
Pilrig, 66
Pinkie, Battle of, 52, 406
Pipe’s Close, 143
Piscina, Ancient, 146
Pitcairn, Dr Archibald, 285, 302
Pius II., Pope, 15
Plague, The, 165, 182,205,311
Plainstanes Close, 344
Plantagenet, Richard, 25
Playfair, Profeessor, 143
Playhouse Close, 287
Plays, 44,103
Pleasance, The, 83, 312
Pole, Cardinal, 403
Pope, Burning the, 437
Porteous, Captain, 109,194-196,440
Mob, 211, 433
Portobello Tower, 451
Preston, John, 268
438
Pillory, 74, 454
Port, 312
Sir Michael, 268
of Braigmillar, 381
of Oortoun, 382
Sir Simon, Provost, 79, 245, 396 ... INDEX. Nairn, S i Robert, 193 Katharine, 193 Nairn’s Close, 146, 148 Namur, Count of, 7 Napier of ...

Book 10  p. 507
(Score 0.19)

Queen Spcet.1 PROFESSOR WILSONS MOTHER. I < <
He died of disease of the heart at 52, Queen
Street, on the 6th May, 1870, and never was man
more lamented by all ranks and classes of society ;
and nothing in life so became him, as the calmness
and courage with which he left it.
His own great skill had taught him that from
the first his recovery was doubtful, and in speaking
of a possibly fatal issue, his principal reason for
desiring life was that he hoped, if it were God?s
will, that he might have been spared to do a little
more service in the cause of hospitak reform ; all
his plsns and prospects were limited by this reference
to t!ie Divine will.
?If God takes me to-night,? said he to a friend,
? I feel that I am resting on Christ with the simple
faith of a child.? And in this faith he passed
away.
His funeral was a great and solemn ovation
indeed ; and never since Thomas Chatmers was laid
in his grave had Edinburgh witnessed such a scene
as that exhibifed in Queen Streqt on the 13th May.
From the most distant shires, even of the Highlands
aed the northern counties of England, and
from London, people came to pay their last tribute
to him whom one of the London dailies emphatically
styled ?the grand old Scottish doctor.?
St. Luke?s Free Church, near his house, was made
the meeting place of the general public. In front
of the funeral car were the Senatus Academicus,
headed by the principal, Sir Alexander Grant of
Dalvey, and the Royal College of Physicians, all
in academic costume; the magistrates, with all
their official robes and insignia; all the literary,
scientific, legal, and commercial bodies in the city
sent their quota of representatives, which, together
with the High Constables and students, made altogether
1,700 men in deep mourning.
The day was warm and bright, and vast crowds
thronged every street from his house to the grave
on the southern slope of Wnrriston cemetery, and
on every side were heard ever and anon the
lamentations of the poor, while most of the shops
were closed, and the bells of the churches tolled.
The spectators were estimated at IOO,OOO, and
the most intense decorum prevailed. An idea of
the length of the procession may be gathered from
the fact that, although it consisted of men marching
in sections of fours, it took upwards of. thirty-three
minutes to pass a certain point.
A grave was offered in Westminster, but declined
DY his family, who wished to have him buried
among themselves. A white marble bust of him
by Brodie was, however, placed there in 1879.
NO. 53 Queen Street, the house adjoining that
of Sir James, was the residence of Mrs. Wilson,
mother of Professor John Wilson, widow of a
wealthy gauze manufacturer. Her maiden name
was Margaret Sym, and her brother Robert figures
in the Noctes Ambrosiamz, under the cognomen of
I? Timothy Tickler.? Wilson?s Memoirs ? contain
many of his own letters, datedfrom thke, after r806
till his removal to Anne Street. There he wrote his
I? Isle of Palms,? prior to his marriage with Miss
Jane Penny in May, I 8 I I, and there, with his young
wife and her sisters, he was resident with the old
lady at the subsequent Christmas. His father
left him an unencumbered fortune of ~ 5 0 , 0 0 0 ,
which had enabled him to cut a good figure at
Oxford.
?A little glimpse of the life at 53 Queen Street,
and the pleasant footing subsisting between the
relatives gathered there, is afforded in a note of
young Mrs. Wilson about this time to a sisterYm
says Mrs. Gordon. ?She thanks ?Peg? for her
note, which, she says, ?was sacred to myself. It is
not my custom, you may tell her, to show my
letters to John.? She goes on to speak of Edinburgh
society, dinners, and evening parties, and
whom she most likes. The Rev. Mr. Morehead is
Mr. Jeffrey is ? a homd little
man,? but ? held in as high estimation here as the
Bible.? Mrs. Wilson senior gives a ball, and 150
people are invited. ? The girls are looking forward
to it with great delight. Mrs. Wilson is very nice
with them, and lets them ask anybody they like.
There is not the least restraint put upon them.
John?s poems will be sent from here next week.
The large size is a guinea, and the small one
twelve shillings.? ?
Elsewhere we are told that John Wilson?s
? home was in Edinburgh. His mother received
him into her house, where he resided till 1819.?
She was a lady whose domestic management
was the wonder and admiration of all zealous
housekeepers. Under one roof, in 53 Queen
Street, she contrived to accommodate three distinct
families; and there, besides the generosity exercised
towards her own, she was hospitable to all, and
her chanty to the poor was unbounded ; and when
she died, ?it was, as it were, the extinction of a
bright particular star, nor can any one who ever
saw her altogether forget the effect of her presence.
She belonged to that old school of Scottish ladies
whose refinement and intellect never interfered
with duties the most humble.?
In those days in Edinburgh the system of a
household neither sought nor suggested a number
of servants ; thus many domestic duties devolved
upon the lady herself: for example, the china
-usually a rare set-after breakfast and tea, was
a great favourite ... Spcet.1 PROFESSOR WILSONS MOTHER. I < < He died of disease of the heart at 52, Queen Street, on the ...

Book 3  p. 155
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with whom she took up her abode. After having
effectually lulled all suspicion, she affected to remember
a vow she had made to visit the White
Kirk of Brechin (according to the '' Chronicles of
Pitscottie "), and bade adieu to the Chancellor overnight,
with many tender recommendations of the
young king to his care. She set forth betimes next
morning with her retinue, and baggage borne on
sumpter horses. In one of the arks or chests
:trapped on one of these she had the young king
concealed, with his own consert. He was thus
conveyed to Leith, and from thence by water to
Stirling, where she placed him in the hands of the
Regent Livingstone, while the haughty Douglas
kept aloof, as one who took no interest in the
petty intrigues around the throne. Livingstone
now unfurled the royal standard, levied troops, and
laid siege to the Castle of Edinburgh ; but the wary
Chanceflor, finding that he had been outwitted,
pretended to compromise matters by delivering
the keys of the gates into the hands of the king,
after which they all supped together in the great
hall of the fortress. Crichton was confirmed in his
ofice of Chancellor, and the other as regent and
guardian of the royal person, a state of affairs not
fated to last long.
Livingstone having quarrelled with the queen,
she carried off the young king again, and restored
him to the custody of the Chancellor in the Castle
of Edinburgh. Under the guidance of the Bishops
of Moray and Aberdeen, then resident in the city,
a conference was held in the church of St. Giles,
' making him and his rival joint guardians, which,
from their mutual dread and hatred of the Earl of
Douglas, led to an amicable arrangement, and the
young king chose the Castle as his future place of
residence.
The great house..of. Dauglas,had naw reached
the zenith of its baronial power and pride. The
earl possessed Annabdale, Galloway, and other extensive
dominions in. the southern counties, where
all men bowed to his authority. He had the
dukedom of Touraine and lordship of Longueville
in France. He was allied to the royal family of
Scotland, and had at his back a powerful force of
devoted vassals, trained to arms, led by brave
knights, who were ripe at all times for revolt and
strife.
'' The Regent and the Chancellor are both alike
to me," said he, scornfully ; " 'tis no matter which
may overcome, and if both perish the country
will be the better ; and it is a pleasant sight for
honest men to.see such fencers yoked together."
But soon after the potent Douglas died at
Restalrig-h June, 144o-and was succeeded by
his son William, then in his sixteenth year ; and
now the subtle and unscrupulous old Chancellor
thought that the time had come to destroy with
safety a family he alike feared and detested. In
the flush of his youth and p...12, fired by the
flattery of his dependents, the young earl, in the
retinue and splendour that surrounded him far
surpassed his sovereign. He never rode abroad
with less than two thousand lances under his
banner, well horsed, and sheathed in mail, and
he actually, according to Buchanan, sent as his
ambassadors to the court of France Sir Malcolm
Fleming and Sir John Lauder of the Bass, to
obtain for him a new patent of the duchy of
Touraine, which had been conferred on his grandfather
by Charles VII. Arrogance so unwonted
and grandeur so great alarmed both Crichton and
Livingstone, who could not see where all this was
to end.
Any resort to violence would lead to civil war.
He was therefore, with many flatteries, lured to
partake of a banquet in the Castle of Edinburgh,
accompanied by his brother the little Lord David
and Sir Malcolm Fleming of Cumbernauld. With
every show of welcome they were placed at the
same table with the king, while the portcullis was
suddenly lowered, the gates carefully shut, and
their numerous and suspicious train excluded.
Towards the close of the entertainment a black
bull's head-an ancient Scottish symbol that some
one was doomed to death-was suddenly placed
upon the board. The brave boys sprang up, and
drew their swords; but a band of Crichton's
vassals, 'in complete armour, rushed in from a
chamber called the Tiring-house, and dragged
forth the three guests, despite the tears and entreaties
of the young king.
I They were immediately beheaded-on the 24th
of November, I 440-according to Godscroft, '' in
the back court of the Castle that lyeth to the west"
(where the barracks now stand); in the great
hall, according to Balfour. They were buried in
the fortress, and when, in 1753, some workmen, in
digging a foundation there, found the plate and.
handles of a coffin all of which were pure gold,
they were supposed tp belong to that in which
the Earl of Douglas was placed. Singular to say,
Crichton was never brought to trial for this terrible
outrage. " Venomous viper ! I' exclaims the old
historian of the Douglases, "that could hide so
deadly poyson under so faire showes ! unworthy
tongue, unelesse to be cut oute for example to all
ages ! A lion or tiger for cruelty of heart-a waspe
or spider for spight ! " He also refers to a rude
ballad on the subject, beginning ... whom she took up her abode. After having effectually lulled all suspicion, she affected to remember a vow ...

Book 1  p. 30
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282 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street.
style, with many ornate gables, dormer windows,
%ut was a second time stolen ; and in the strangulation
on the scaffold, and the being fouricl in a
ditch among water, the superstitious saw retributive
justice for the murder of which he was
assumed to be guilty. ? I t will be acknowledged,?
says the author of the ? Domestic Annals,?
?that in the circumstances related there is not a
particle of valid evidence against the young man.
The surgeons? opinion as to the fact of strangulation
is not entitled to much regard ; but, granting
its solidity, it does not prove the guilt of the ac-
.cused. The horror of the young man on seeing
his father?s blood might be referred to painful recol-
Jections of that profligate conduct which he knew
had distressed his parent, and brought his grey
hairs with sorrow to the grave-especially when we
reflect that Stanfield would himself be impressed
with the superstitious feelings of the age, and might
.accept the hzmorrhage as an accusation by heaven
on account of the concern his conduct had in
shortening the life of his father. The whole case
:seems to be a lively illustration of the effect of
superstitious feelings in blinding justice.?
We have thus traced the history of the High
Street and its closes down once more to the
Nether Bow.
In the World?s End Close Lady Lawrence was
a residenter in 1761, and Lady Huntingdon in 1784,
and for some years after the creation of the New
Town, people of position continued to linger in the
Old Town and in the Canongate. And from Peter
Williamson?s curious little ?? Directory ? for 1784,
we can glean a few names, thus :-
I Scottish gentleman, who, though he did not partici-
Lady Mary Carnegie, in Bailie Fyfe?s Close;
Lady Colstoun and the Hon. Alexander Gordon,
on the Castle Hill; General Douglas, in Baron
Maule?s Close; Lady Jean Gordon, in the Hammerman?s
Close; Sir James Wemyss, in Riddle?s
Close; Sir John Whiteford of that ilk, in the
Anchor Close ; Sir Jameg Campbell, in the Old
Bank Close; Erskine of Cardross, in the Horse
Wynd ; Lady Home, in Lady Stair?s Close.
In Monteith?s Close, in 1794, we find in the
? Scottish Hist. Register for 1795 recorded the
death of Mr. John Douglas, Albany herald, uncle
of Sir Andrew Snape Douglas, who was captain of
the Queen CharZoffe, of IIO guns, and who fought
her so valiantly in Lord Bridport?s battle on ? the
glonous 23rd of June, 1795.? The house occupied
?by Lady Rothiemay in Turk?s Close, below
Liberton?s Wynd, was advertised for sale in the
Couranf of 1761 ; and there lived, till his death in
1797, James Nelson, collector of the Ministers?
Widows? Fund.
In Morrison?s Close in 1783, we find one of the
most fashionable modisfes of Edinburgh announcing
in the Adverfiser of that year, that she is from ?one
of the most eminent houses in London,? and that
her work is finished in the newest fashions :-
? Chemize de Lorraine, Grecian Robes, Habit Bell,
Robe de Coure, and Levites, different kinds, all in
the most genteel and approved manner, and on the
most reasonable terms.?
In the same year, the signboard of James and
Francis Jeffrey, father and uncle of Lord Jeffrey,
still hung in the Lawnmarket.
CHAPTER XXXIV.
NEW STREETS WITHIN THE AREA OF THE FLODDEN WALL.
h r d ?Cockburn Street-Lord Cockburn-The Scotsmun NewspapeFCharles Maclaren and Alexander Russel-The Queen?s Edinburgh
Rifle Brigade-St. Giles Street-Sketch of the Rise d Journalism in Edinburgh-The EdinQxrgk Courunt-The Daily Rnrieur-Jelfrey
Street-New Trinity College Church
THE principal thoroughfare, which of late years has
been run through the dense masses of the ancient
alleys we have been describing, is Lord Cockburn
Street, which was formed in 1859, and strikes
northward from the north-west corner of Hunter?s
Square, to connect the centre of the 012 city with
-the railway terminus at Waverley Bridge ; it goes
curving down a comparatively steep series of slopes,
and is mainly edificed in the Scottish baronial
lofty tenements in many of the closes that descend
from the north side of the High Street, and was
very properly named after Lord Cockburn, one
entitled to special remembrance on many accounts,
and for the deep interest he took in all matters
connected with his birthplace. When he died,
in April, 1854, he was one of the best and kindliest
of the old school of ?Parliameht House Whigs,?
and was a thorough, honest, shrewd, and benevolent
and conical turrets, high over all of which towers
. the dark and mighty mass of the Royal Exchange.
This new street expdses aromantic section of the
pate to any extent in the literary labours of his
contemporaries, has left behind him an interesting
volume of ? Memorials.? Many can yet recall his ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street. style, with many ornate gables, dormer windows, %ut was a second time ...

Book 2  p. 282
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North Bridge.] JOHN EARL OF MAR. 335
have foreseen; we say long-suggested, for, though
not carried out till the early years of George 111.?~
reign, it had been projected in the latter end of
the reign of Charles 11.
The idea was first suggested when James VII.,
as Duke of Albany and York, was resident Royal
Commissioner at Holyrood, in the zenith of the
only popularity he ever had in Scotland. Vast
numbers of the Scottish nobility and gentry flocked
.around him, and the old people of the middle of
xhe eighteenth century used to recall with delight
the magnificence and brilliance of the court he
gathered in the long-deserted palace, and the
general air of satisfaction which pervaded the
entire city.
Despite the recent turmoils and sufferings consequent
on the barbarous severity with which the
Covenanters had been treated, Edinburgh was prosperous,
and its magistrates bestowed noble presents
upon their royal guest; but the best proof of the
city?s prosperity was the new and then startling idea
s f having an extended royalty and a North Bridge,
;and this idea the Duke of Albany warmly patronised
and encouraged, and towards it gave the citizens a
grant in the following terms :-
?That, when they should have occasion to
enlarge their city by purchasing ground without
tthe town, or to build bridges or arches for the accomplishing
of the same, not only were the propietors
of such lands obliged to part With the same
an reasonable terms, but when in possession thereof,
they are to be erected into a regality in favour of
the citizens ; and after finishing the Canongate
church, the city is to have the surplus of the
20,ooo merks given by Thomas Moodie, in the
year 1649, with the interest thereof; and as all
public streets belong to the king, the vaults and
cellars under those of Edinburgh being forfeited to
the Crown, by their being built without leave or
consent of his majesty, he granted all the said
vaults or cellars to the town, together with a power
to oblige the proprietors of houses, to lay before
their. respective tenements large flat stones for the
conveniency of walking.?
James VII. had fully at heart the good of Edinburgh,
and but for the events of the Revolution
the improvements of the city would have commenced
seventy-two years sooner than they did, but
the neglect of subsequent monarchs fell heavily alike
on the capital and the kingdom. ?Unfortunately,?
. :says Robert Chambers, ?the advantages which
Edinburgh enjoyed under this system of things
were destined to be of short duration. Her royal
:guest departed, with all his family and retinue, in
May, 1682. In six years more he was lost both
:o Edinburgh and Britain; and ?a stranger filled
:he Stuart?s throne,? under whose dynasty Scotland
?ined long in undeserved reprobation.?
The desertion of the city consequent on the
Union made all prospect of progress seem hopeless,
yet some there were who never forgot the cherished
idea of an extended royalty. Among various
plans, the most remarkable for its foresight was that
3f John eighteenth Lord Erskine and eleventh
Earl of Mar, who was exiled for his share in the
insurrection of I 7 I 5.
His sole amusement during the years of the long
exile in which he died at Aix-la-Chapelle in 1732
was to draw plans and designs for the good of his
beloved native country and its capital; and the
paper to which we refer is one written by him in
1725, and mentioned in vol. 8 of the ?Old Statistical
Account of Scotland,? published in 1793.
?All ways of improving Edinburgh should be
thought on : as in particular, making a Zarge bridge
flfhree arch, over the ground betwixt the North
Loch and Physic Gardens, from the High Street at
Liberton?s Wynd to the Multersey Hill, where
many fine streets might be built, as the inhabitants
increased. The access to them would be easy on
all hands, and the situation would be agreeable and
convenient, having a noble prospect of all the fine
ground towards the sea, the Firth of Forth, and
coast of Fife. One long street in a straight line,
where the Long Gate is now (Princes Street?) ; on
one side of it would be a fine opportunity for
gardens down to the North Loch, and one, on the
other side, towards Broughton. No houses to be
on the bridge, the breadth of the North Loch ; but
selling the places or the ends for houses, and the
vaults and arches below for warehouses and cellars,
the charge of the bridge might be defrayed.
? Another bridge might also be made on the other
side of the towq, and almost as useful and commodious
as that on the north. The place where it
could most easily be made is St. Mary?s Wynd, and
the Pleasance. The hollow there is not so deep, as
where the other bridge is proposed, so that it is
thought that two storeys of arches might raise it near
the level with the street at the head of St. Mary?s
Wynd. Betwixt the south end of the Pleasance and
the Potter-row, and from thence to Bristo Street,
and by the back of the wall at Heriot?s Hospital, are
fine situations for houses and gardens. There would
be fine avenues to the town, and outlets for airing
and walking by these bridges ; and Edinburgh, from
being a bad incommodious situation, would become
a very beneficial and convenient one ; and to make
it still more so, a branch of that river, called the
Water of Leith, misht, it is thought, be brought ... Bridge.] JOHN EARL OF MAR. 335 have foreseen; we say long-suggested, for, though not carried out till the ...

Book 2  p. 335
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166 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. Leith.
or ripple or burnished face of water, the very
aspect of which is luxury in a summer day.?
North Leith is bounded on the north ?by the
Firth of Forth, on the south and east by the stream
which gives its name to the whole locality, dividing
it from South Leith, and on the south and west
by St. Cuthbert?s. It is oblong in form, and has
an area of only 517 acres, Its surface is nearly a
uniform level, and with the exception of some
garden grounds is covered by streets and villas.
Between North Leith and Xewhaven the coast has
been to a considerable extent washed away by the
encroaching waves of the Firth, but has now received
the aid of strong stone bulwarks to protect
it from further loss.
The Links of North Leith, which lay along the
coast, were let in 1595 at the annual rent of six
merks, while those of South Leith were let at a rent
of thirty, so the former must have been one-fifth of
the extent of the latter, or a quarter of a mile long
by three hundred yards in breadth. For many
years the last vestiges of these have disappeared
and what must formerly have been a beautiful and
grassy plain is now an irreclaimable waste, where
not partially occupied by the railway and goods
station, regularly flooded by the tide, and displaying
at low water a thick expansion of stones and
pebbles, washed free from mould or soil.
The earliest reference td Leith in history is in
King David?s famous charter to Holyrood, aim
1143-7, whereir. he gives the water, fishings, and
meadows to the canons serving God therein, ?? and
Broctan, with its right marches ; and that Tnverlet
which is nearest the harbour, and with the half of
the fishing, and with a whole tithe of all the fishing
that belongs to the church of St. Cuthbert.?
This charter of King David is either repeated or
quoted in all subsequent grants by charter, or purchases
of superiority, referring to Leith ; and by it
there would seem to have been in that early age
some species of harbour where the Leith joins the
Firth of Forth ; but there is again a reference to it
in 1313, when all the vessels there were burned by
the English during the war waged by Edward II.,
which ended in the following year at Bannockburn.
On the 28th of May, 1329, King Robert I. began
all the future troubles of Leith by a grant of it to
the city of Edinburgh, in the following terms :-
U Robert, by the grace of God King of Scots, to
all good men of his land, greeting: Know ye that
we have given, granted, and to perform let, and by
this our present charter confirmed, to the burgesses
of our burgh of Edinburgh, our foresaid burgh of
Edinburgh, together with the port of Leith, mills,
and their pertinents, to have and to hold, to the
said burgesses and their successors, of us and our
heirs, freely, quietly, fully, and honourably, by all.
their right meithes and marches, with all the commodities,
liberties, and easements which justiy pertained
to the said burgh in the time of King:
Alexander, our predecessor last deceased, of good
memory ; paying, therefore, the said burgesses and
their successors, to us and our heirs, yearly, fiftytwo
merks sterling, at the terms of Whitsunday, and
Martinmas in winter, by equal proportions. In
witness whereof we have commanded our seal to
be affixed to our present charter. Tesfihs, Walter
of Twynham, our Chancellor ; Thomas Randolph,
Earl of Moray, Lord of Annandale and Man, our
nephew ; Janies, Lord of Douglas ; Gilbert of Hay,
our Constable ; Robert of Keith, our Marischal1 of
Scotland, and Adam Moore, knights. At Cardross,
the 28th of May, in the twenty-fourth year of our
reign.? (Burgh Charters, No. iv.)
From the date of this document a contest for the
right of superiority commenced, and till the present
century Leith was never free from the trammels
imposed upon it by the city of Edinburgh ; and the
town council, not content with the privileges given
by Robert Bruce, eventually got possession of the
ground adjacent to the harbour, on the banks of
the river.
In those days the population of the infant port
must have been very small. In the index of missing
royal charters in the time of King Robert II.,
there is one to John Gray, Clerk Register, ? of ane
tenement in Leith,? and another to the monastery
of Melrose of a tenement in the same place;
and in 1357, among those?who entered into an
obligation to pay the ransom of King David II.,
then a prisoner of war in England, we find
? William of Leith,? no doubt a merchant of substance
in his day.
Thomas of Leith, or another bearing the same
name, witnessed a charter of David, Earl of Orkney,
in 1391.
Sir Robert Logan of Restalrig, a man of heartless,
greedy, and rapacious character, began to
contest the-citizens? claim or right of superiority
over Leith, and obliged them to take a concession
of it from him by purchase or charter, dated the
31st of May, 1398 ; and to this document we have
referred in a preceding chapter. Prior to this, says
Maitland, the course of traffic was restricted by
him ?to the use of a narrow and inconvenient lane,
a little beneath the Tolbooth Wynd, now called the
Burgess Close.?
As we have related in the account of Restalrig,
Sir Robert Logan granted to the community of
Edinburgh a right to the waste lands in the vicinity
(Burgh Charters, Xo. vi.) ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. Leith. or ripple or burnished face of water, the very aspect of which is luxury in a ...

Book 5  p. 166
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258 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith
helmet, now preserved in the Antiquarian Museum
-and the entrance gate or archway on the north
side of Couper Street. It is elliptical, goes the
whole depth of the original rampart, and has had
a portcullis, but is only nine feet high from the
keystone to the ground, which must have risen
here ; and in the Advertiser for 1789 (No. 2,668),
it is recorded that, ? On Monday last, as a gentleman?s
coach was driving through an arch of the
citadel at Leith, the coachman, not perceiving the
lowness of the arch, was unfortunately killed.?
?( Many still living,? says Wilson, writing in 1847,
?can remember when this arch (with the house
now built above it) stood on the open beach, though
now a wide space intervenes between it and the
docks ; and the Mariners? Church, as well as a long
range of substantial houses in Commercial Street,
have been erected on the recovered land?
After the Restoration a partial demolition of the
citadel and sale of its materials began ; thus, it is
stated in the Records of Heriot?s Hospital, that
the ?Town Council, on 7th April, 1673, ?unanimously
understood that the Kirk of the citadel1 (of
Leith), and all that is therein, both timber, seats,
steeple, stone and glass work, be made use of and
used to the best avail for reparation of the hospital
chapel, and ordains the treasurer of the hospital
to see the samyn done with all conveniency.?
Maitland describes the citadel as having been of
pentagonal form, with five bastions, adding that it
cost the city ?no less a sum than LII,OOO,? thus
we must suppose that English money contributed
largely to its erection. On its being granted to the
Earl of Lauderdale by the king, the former sold it
to the city for &5,000, and the houses within were
sold or let to various persons, whose names occur
in various records from time to time.
A glass-house, for the manufacture of bottles, is
announced in the ?? Kingdom?s Intelligence,? under
date 1663, as having been ?? erected in the citadel
of Leith by English residents,? for the manufacture
of wine and beer glasses, and mutchkin and chopin
bottles. .
On this, a writer remarks that it will at once
strike the reader there is a curious conjunction here
of Scottish and English customs. Beer, under its
name, was previously unknown in Scotland, and
mutchkins and chopins never figured in any table
of English measures.
Among those who dwelt in the citadel, and had
houses there, we may note the gallant Duke of
Gordon, who defended the Castle of Edinburgh in
~688-9 against FVilliam of Orange, ?and died at
his residence in the citadel of Leith in 1716.?
A large and commodious dwelling-house there,
?lately belonging to and possest by the Lady
Bruce, with an agreeable prospect,? having thirteert
fire rooms, stables, and chaise-house, is announced
for sale in the Courant for October, 1761,
In the Advertiser for December, 1783, the house
of Sir William Erskine there is announced as to let ;
the drawingroom thirty-one feet by nineteen j (? a
small field for a cow may be had if wanted; the
walks round the house make almost a circuit round
the citadel, and, being situated cZose to the sea, command
a most pleasing view of the shipping in the
Forth.?
In the HeraZd and ChronicZe for 1800 ?the
lower half of the large house ? last possessed by
Lady Eleonora Dundas is advertised to let; but
even by the time Kincaid wrote his ?( Hktory,? such
aristocratic residents had given place to the keepers
of summer and bathing quarters, for which last the
beach and its vicinity gave every facility.
Mr. Campbell?s house (lately possessed by Major
Laurenson), having eight rooms, with stabling, is
announced as bathing quarters in the Advertiser
of 1802.
North Leith Sands, adjacent to the citadel,
existed till nearly the formation of the old docks.
In 1774, John Milne, shipmaster from Banff,
was found on them drowned ; and the Scots Magazine
for the same year records that on ?Sunday,
December 4, a considerable damage was done to
the shipping in Leith harbour by the tide, which
rose higher than it has ever been known for many
years. The stone pier was damaged, some houses
in the citadel suffered, and a great part of the
bank from that place to Newhaven was swept
away. The magistrates and Town Council af
Edinburgh, on the zIst, were pleased to order
twenty guineas to be given to the Master of the
Trinity House of Leith, to be distributed among
the sufferers.?
Wilson, quoting Campbell?s ?History of Leith,?
says : ?? Not only can citizens remember when the
spray of the sea billows was dashed by the east
wind against the last relic of the citadel, that
now stands so remote from the rising tide, but it
is only about sixty years since a ship was wrecked
upon the adjoining beach, and went to pieces,
while its bowsprit kept beating against the walls
of the citadel at every surge of the rolling waves,
that forced it higher on the strand.?
This anecdote is perhaps corroborated by the
following, which we find in the Edinburgh Herald
for December, 1800 :-(?On Friday last, as the
sloop ITmIeavour, of Thurso, Lye11 master, from
the Highlands, laden with kelp and other goods,
was taking the harbour of Leith, she struck the ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith helmet, now preserved in the Antiquarian Museum -and the entrance gate or ...

Book 6  p. 258
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362 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Iauwade
families of note. Philip became sheriff of the
Mearns, and ancestor of the Melvilles of Glenbervie
; Walter, of the Melvilles in Fife ; but Waren
cannot be traced beyond I 178.
By the chartulary of Aberdeen, Sir Gregory of
Melville, in Lothian, would seem to have witnessed
a charter of Alexander II., confirming a gift of
Duncan, eighth Earl of Mar, to the church of
Aberdeen, together with Ranulph de Lambley,
bishop of that see, who died in 1247.
His son William was succeeded in turn by his
son, Sir John Melville, lord of the barony of
Melville, between the years 1329 and 1344.
In the reign of King Robert II., the Melvilles
of Melville ended in Agnes (grandchild and sole
heiress of Sir John of that ilk), who married Sir
John Ross of Halkhead, to whom and his heirs
the estate passed, and continued to be the property
of his descendants, the Lords Ross of Halkhead,
till the middle of the eighteenth century,
when that old Scottish title became extinct, and
Melville passed into the possession of a family
named Rennie.
The present castle, we have said, was built by
the first Viscount Melville, who married, first, Elizabeth,
daughter of David Rennie of Melville, and
was raised to the peerage in 1802. As Henry
Dundas-descended from the old and honourable
house of Arniston, well known in Scottish legal
history-he had risen to eminence as Lord Advocate
of Scotland in 1775, and subsequently filled
some high official situations in England. He
mamed, secondly, Jane, daughter of John, second
Earl of Hopetoun, by whom he had no family.
In 1805 he had the misfortune to be impeached
by the House of Commons for alleged malversation
in his office as Treasurer of the Navy, and after a
full trial by his peers in Westminster Hall, was
judged not guilty. On this event the following
remarks occur in Lockhart?s ?? Life of Scott ? :-
? The impeachment of Lord Melville was among
the first measures of the new (Whig) Government ;
and personal affection and gratitude, graced as well
as heightened the zeal with which Scott watched
the issue of this-in his eyes-vindictive proceeding
; but though the ex-minister?s ultimate acquittal
was, as to all the charges involving his personal
honour, complete, it must be allowed that the investigation
brought out many circumstances by no
means creditable to his discretion-and the rejoicings
ought not, therefore, to have been scornfully
jubilant. Such they were, however-at least, i n
Edinburgh ; and Scott took his full share in them
by inditing a song, which was sung by James
Ballantyne at a public dinner given in honour 01
the event, 27th June, 1806.? Of this song one
verse will suffice as a specimen of the eight of
which it consists :-
?? Since here we are set in array round the table,
Five hundred good fellows well met in a hall,
Come listen, brave boys, and I?ll sing as I?m able,
How innocence triumphed and pride got a fall.
Push round the claret-
Come, stewards, don?t spare it-
Here, boys,
Off with it merrily-
With rapture you?ll drink to the toast that I give :
MELVILLE for ever, and long may he live ! ?
It was published on a broadside, to be sold
and sung in the streets.
Kay has a portrait of the first Lord Melville in
the uniforni of the Edinburgh Volunteers, of which
he became a member in July, 1795, but declined
the commission of captain-lieutenant. .
Kay?s editor gives us the following anecdote :-
During the Coalition Administration,. the Hon.
Henry Erskine held the office of Lord Advocate
of Scotland. He succeeded Dundas (the future
Viscount Melville), and on the morning of his
appointment he met the latter in the outer house,
when, observing that Dundas had already resumed
the ordinary stuff gown which advpcates generally
wear, he said, gaily, ?I must leave off talking, and
go and order my silk gown,? the official costume
of the Lord Advocate and Solicitor-General. ? It
is hardly worth while,? said Mr. Dundas, drily,
?for all the time you will want it : you had better
borrow mine.?
Erskine?s retort was very smart.
?From the readiness with which you make me
the offer, Dundas, I have no doubt the gown is
made tojtaanyparo; but it shall never be said
of Harry Erskine that he put on the abandoned
habits of his predecessor.? .
The prediction of Dundas proved true, however,
for Erskine held office only for a very short period,
in consequence of a sudden change of ministry.
Lord Melville died on the 29th May, 1811, in
the same week that saw the deatin of his dearest
friend and neighbour, whose funeral he had come to
attend, the Lord President Blair of Avontoun ; and
the fact of ? their houses being next to one another
with only a single wall between the bed-rooms, where
the dead bodies of each were lying at the same
time, made a deep impression on their friends.?
He was succeeded by his eldest son, Robert
Saunders-Dundas, as second Viscount Melville in
Lothian, and Baron Uunira in Perthshire. He
was born in 1771, and married Anne, daughter
and co-heiress of Richard Huck Saunders, M.D.,
upon which he assumed the additional name of
. ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Iauwade families of note. Philip became sheriff of the Mearns, and ancestor of the ...

Book 6  p. 362
(Score 0.19)

High Street.] THE BRITISH LINEN COMPANY. 279
resided here was John, fourth Marquis, who was
Secretary of State for Scotland from 1742 till 1745,
when he resigned the office, on which the Government
at once availed themselves of the opportunity
for leaving it vacant, as it has remained ever since.
He died in 1762, and soon after the carriageentrance
and the fine old terraced garden of the
house, which lay on the slope westward, were
removed to make way for the Episcopal church in
the Cowgate-doomed in turn to be forsaken by
its founders, and even by their successors.
From the Tmeeddale family the mansion passed
into the hands of the British Linen Company, and
became their banking house, until they deserted it
for Moray House in the Canongate, from which they
ultiniatelymigrated to a statelier edifice inSt. Andrew
Square. This company was originally incorpo-
Tated by a charter under the Privy Seal granted by
George 11. on the 6th of July, 1746, at a time
when the mind of the Scottish people was still
agitated by the events of the preceding year and
the result of the battle of Culloden; and it was
deemed an object of the first importance to tranquillise
the country and call forth its resources, so
that the attention of the nation should be directed
to the advantages of trade and manufacture. With
this view the Government, as well as many gentlemen
of rank and fortune, exerted themselves to
promote the linen manufacture, which had been
lately introduced, deeming that it would in time
become the staple manufacture of Scotland, and
provide ample employment for her people, while
.extensive markets for the produce of their labour
would be found alike at home and in the colonies,
then chiefly supplied by the linens of Germany.
By the Dukes of Queensberry and Argyle, who
became the first governors of the British Linen
Company, representations to this effect were made
to Government, and by the Earls of Glencairn, Eglinton,
Galloway, Panmure, and many other peers,
together with the Lord Justice Clerk Fletcher of
Saltoun, afterwards Lord Milton, who was the first
deputy governor, and whose mother, when an exile
in Holland during the troubles, had secretly obtained
a knowledge of the art of weaving and of
dressidg the fine linen known as ? Holland,? and
introduced its manufacture at the village of Saltoun;
by the Lord Justice Clerk Alva ; Provost George
Drummond ; John Coutts, founder of the famous
banking houses of Forbes and Co., and Coutts
and Co. in the Strand; by Henry Home, Lord
Kames ; and many othqs, all of whom urged the
establishment of the company, under royal sanction,
and offered to become subscribers to the undertaking.
A charter was obtained in accordance with their
views and wishes, establishing the British Linen
Company as a corporation, and bestowing upon
it ample privileges, not only to manufacture and
deal in linen fabrics, but also to do all that
might conduce to the promotion thereof; and
authority was given to raise a capital of ~roo,ooo,
to be enlarged by future warrants under the
sign manual of his Majesty, his heirs and successors,
to such sums as the affairs of the company
might .require. After this the company engaged to
a considerable extent in the importation of flax and
the manufacture of yarns and linens, having warehouses
both in Edinburgh and London, and in its
affairs none took a more active part than Lord
Milton, who was an enthusiast in all that related to
the improvement of trade, agriculture, and learning,
in his native country; but it soon became apparent
that the company ? would be of more utility, and
better promote the objects of their institution, by
enlarging the issue of their notes to traders, than
being traders and manufacturers themselves.?
By degrees, therefore, the company withdrew
from all manufacturing operations and speculations,
and finally closed them in 1763, from which year
to the present time their business has been confined
to the discount of bills, advances on accounts,
and other b.ank transactions, in support of Scottish
trade generally, at home and abroad. ?By the
extension of their branch agencies to a great number
of towns,? to quote their own historical report, ? and
the employment in discounts and cash advaqces of
their own funds, as well as of that portion of the
formerly scanty and inactive money capital of Scotland
which has been lodged with the company, they
have been the means of contributing very materially
to the encouragement of useful industry throughout
Scotland, and to her rapid progress in agricultural
and mechanical improvements, and in commercial
intercourse with foreign countries. As regards the
particular object of the institution of the companythe
encouragement of the linen manufa.cture-considerably
more than half of the flax and hemp
imported into the United Kingdom, is now (in
1878) brought to the Scottish ports.?
Now the bank has nearly eighty branch or subbranch
offices over all Scotland alone. The company?s
original capital of AIOO,OOO has been
gradually increased under three additional charters,
granted at different times, under the Great Seal
By Queen Victoria, their fourth charter, dated 19th
March, 1849, ratifies and confirms all, their privileges
and rights, and power was given to augment
their capital to any sum not exceeding A r,5oo,ooo
in all, for banking purposes. The amount of new ... Street.] THE BRITISH LINEN COMPANY. 279 resided here was John, fourth Marquis, who was Secretary of State ...

Book 2  p. 279
(Score 0.19)

to him an intimation that he was to be made
prisoner, and advised him to lose no time in
assuming the defensive. On this he sent his uncle,
the ?fambus Gavin Douglas, Bishop of Dunkeld,
to remonstrate with the archbishop, Arran, and
others present, ? to caution them against violence,
and to inform them that if they had anything to
allege against him he would be judged by the laws
of the realm, and not by men who were his avowed
enemies.? Meanwhile he put on his armour, and
drew up his spearmen in close array near the
Nether-Bow Port-the Temple Bar of Edinburgh
-a gate strongly fortified by double towers.
When the Bishop of Dunkeld entered the archbishop?s
house in the Blackfriars Wynd he found
all present armed, and resolved on the most desperate
measures. Even the archbishop wore a coat
of mail, covered by his ecclesiastical costume, and
in the dispute that ensued he concluded a vehement
speech by striking his breast, and asseverating-??
There is no remedy ! The Earl of Angus
must go to prison. Upon my conscience I cannot
help it 1 ?
As he struck his breast the armour rattled.
? How now, my lord ? ? said the Bishop of Dunkeld
; ? I think your conscience clatters! We
are priests, and to bear arms or armour is not
consistent with our profession.?
The archbishop explained ? that he had merely
provided for his own safety in these days of continued
turmoil, when no man could leave his house
but at the hazard of his life.?
Numbers of citizens and others had now joined
Angus, who was exceedingly popular, and the people
handed weapons from the windows to all his followers
who required them. He barricaded all the
entrances to the steep wynds and closes leading from
the High Street to the Cowgate, and took post
himself near the head of the Blackfriars Wynd.
Sir James Hamilton of Finnart came rushing upward
at the head of the Hamiltons to attack the
Douglases. Angus, who knew him, ordered the
latter to spare him if possible, but he was onc
of the first who perished in the fierce and bloody
fray that ensued, and involved the whole city in
universal uproar.
?A Hamilton ! a
Hamilton ! Through ! Through ! ? such were the
adverse cries.
The many windows of the lofty and gable-ended
houses of the High Street were crowded with the
excited faces of spectators ; the clash of swords and
crash of pikes, the shouts, yells, and execration:
of the combatants as they closed in fierce conflict
added to the general consternation, and killed and
?A Douglas ! a Douglas !?
vounded began to cumber the causeway in every
iirection.
The Hamiltons gave way, and, sword in hand,
he exasperated Angus drove them headlong down
be Blackfriars Wynd, killing them on every hand.
r?he Earl of Arran and a kinsman hewed a passage
)ut of the m t e , and fled down an alley on the north
iide of the High Street. At the foot they found
I collier?s horse, and, throwing the burden off the
tnimal, both mounted it, though in armour, swam
t across the loch to the other side, and escaped
tmong the fields, where now Princes Street stands.
Many Douglases perished in the skirmish, which
was long remembered as ?? Cleanse the Causeway.?
3f the Hamiltons eighty were slain on the spot,
including Sir Patrick son of the first Lord Hamilton,
and the Master of Montgomery, according to
Hawthornden. The archbishop fled to the adjacent
Blackfriars church for sanctcary, but the
Douglases dragged him from behind the altar,
rent his episcopal habit from his back, and would ?
have slain him had not the Bishop of Dunkeld
interfered; and he was permitted to fly afoot to
Linlithgow, sixteen miles distant.
Towards the termination of the fight 800 border
troopers, under the Prior of Coldingham (Angus?s
brother), came galloping hi, and finding the gates
and wickets closed, they beat them in with hammers;
but by that time the fray was over.
This was but a specimen of the misrule that
pervaded the whole realm till the arrival of the
Regent Albany, when the Parliament at Edinburgh
named four peers as guardians of the young king
and his infant brother, permitting the queen to name
other four. On this being adjusted, the Duke of
Albany and these peers in their robes of state,
attended by esquires and pages, proceeded to the
Castle, at the gate of which they were received by
a singular tableau of an imposing description.
The bamers were thrown open, and on the
summit of the flight of forty steps which then gave
access to them, stood the beautiful queen of that
heroic king who fell at Flodden, holding by the
hand the little James V., while a pace or two
behind her stood a noble lady, supporting in her
arms his infant brother. With real or affected
sweetness of manner she asked their errand.
? Madam,? replied the royal duke, ? we come
by the authority of Parliament to receive at your
hands our sovereign and his brother.??
Margaret Tudor stepped back a pace, and
ordered the portcullis to be lowered, and as the
grating descended slowly between her and the four
delegates, she said :-
? I hold this Castle by gift from my late husband, ... him an intimation that he was to be made prisoner, and advised him to lose no time in assuming the defensive. ...

Book 1  p. 39
(Score 0.19)

Convi~ialii] THE SPENDTHRIFT CLUB. 12.5
called one of his brother boars by his proper outof-
club name, the term < Sir ? being only allowed.
The entry-money, fines, and other pecuniary acquisitions,
were hoarded for a grand annual dinner.?
In 1799 some new officials were added, such
as a poet-laureate, champion, archbishop, and chief
grunter, and by that time, as the tone and expenses
of the club had increased, the fines became
very severe, and in the exactions no one met with
any mercy, ?? as it was the interests of all that the
& should bring forth a plenteous farrow.? This
practice led to squabbles, and the grotesque fraternity
was broken up.
The COUNTRY DINNER CLUB was a much more
sensible style of gathering, when some respectable
citizens of good position were wont to meet on the
afternoon of each Saturday about the year 1790 to
dine in an old tavern in Canonmills, then at a
moderate distance from town. They kept their
own particular claret. William Ramsay, a banker,
then residing in Warriston House, was deemed
?( the tongue of the trump to the club,? which entirely
consisted of hearty and honest old citizens,
all of whom have long since gone to their last account.
The EAST INDIA CLUB was formed in 1797, and
held its first meeting in John Bayll?s tavern on
the 13th of January that year, when the Herald
announces that dinner would be on the table at the
then late and fashionable hour of four, but the body
does not seem to have been long in existence ; it
contributed twenty guineas to the sufferers of a fire
in the Cowgate in the spring of 1799, and fifty to
the House of Industry in 1801.
John Bayll managed the ?George Square assemblies,?
which were held in Buccleuch Place.
His tavern was in Shakespeare Square, where his
annual balls and suppers, in 1800, were under the
patronage of the Duchess of Buccleuch and Mrs.
Dundas of Amiston.
Of the CAPE CLUB, which was established on
the 15th of March, 1733, and of which Fergusson
the poet and Runciman the painter were afterwards
members, an account will be found in Vol. I.,
which, however, omitted to give the origin of the
name of that long-existing and merry fraternity,
and which was founded on an old, but rather weak,
Edinburgh joke of the period.
Some well-known burgess of the Calton who WE
in the habit of spending the evening hours with
friends in the city, till after the ten o?clock drum
had been beaten and the Netherbow Port wa:
shut, to obtain egress was under the necessity 01
bribing the porter there, or remaining within the
walls all ni&it. On leaving the gate he had tc
turn acutely to the left to proceed down Leith
Wynd, which this facetious toper termed ?? doubling
the Cape.? Eventually it became a standing joke
in the small circle of Edinburgh then, ?and the
Cape Club owned a regular institution from 1763,?
says Chambers, but its sixty-fifth anniversary is
announced in the HeraZd of 1798, for the 15th of
March as given above.
The SPENDTHRIFT CLUB, was so called in ridicule
of the very moderate indulgence of its members,
whose expenses were limited to fourpence-halfpenny
each night, yet all of them were wealthy or
well-to-do citizens, many of whom usually met after
forenoon church at the. Royal Exchange for a walk
in the country-their plan being to walk in the
direction from whence the wind blew and thus
avoid the smoke of the city. ? In 1824,? says
ChamberS, ?? in the recollection of the senior members,
some of whom were of fifty years? standing,
the house (of meeting) was kept by the widow of a
Lieutenant Hamilton of the army, who recollected
having attended the theatre in the Tennis Court at
Holyrood when the play was the ? Spanish Friar,,
and many of the members of the Union Parliament
were present in the house.?
The meetings of this club were nightly, till reduced
to four weekly, Whist was played for a
halfpenny. Supper originally cost only twopence,
and half a bottle of strong ale, with a dram, cost
twopence-halfpenny more ; a halfpenny to the
servant-maid, was a total of fivepence for a night of
jollity and good fellowship.
The PIOUS CLUB was composed of respectable
and orderly business-men who met every night,
Sundays not excepted, in the Pie-house-hence their
name, a play upon the words. We are told that
?the agreeable uncertainty as to whether their
name arose from their pie& or the circumstance of
their eating piesy kept the club hearty for many
years.?
Fifteen members constituted a full night, a gill of
toddy to each was served out like wine from a d e
canter, and they were supposed to separate at ten
o?clock.
The ANTEMANUM CLUB was composed of men of
respectability, and many who were men of fortune,
who dined together every Saturday. ? Brag? was
their chief game with cards. It was a purely convivial
club, till the era of the Whig party being in
the ascendant led to angry political discussions, and
eventual dissolution.
The SIX FEET CLUB was composed of men who
were of that stature or above it, if possible. It was
an athletic society, and generally met half-yearly at
the Hunter?s Tryst, near Colinton, or similar places, ... THE SPENDTHRIFT CLUB. 12.5 called one of his brother boars by his proper outof- club name, the term ...

Book 5  p. 125
(Score 0.19)

94 . OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Inverleith.
the long hill on the south side of the West Port,
from Cowfeeder Row to the Bristo Port, the eastei
and wester crofts of Bristo, nearly down to the lsnds
of the abbey of Holyrood.
Of the old fortalice of this extinct race, and ol
their predecessors-which stood on the highesi
ground of Invorleith, a little way west of where
we find the modern house now embosomed among
luxuriant timber-not a vestige remains. Even
its ancient dovecot-in defiance of the old Scottish
superstition respecting the destruction of a dovecot
-has been removed. ?The beautiful and sequestered
footpath bordered (once ?) by hawthorn
hedges, known by the name of Gabriel?s Road,?
says a local writer, ?is said to have been constructed
for the convenience of the ancient lairds
of Inverleith to enable them to attend worship in
St. Giles?s.?
No relics remain of the ancient dwelling, unless
we except the archery butts, 600 feet apart,
standing nearly due south of Inverleith Mains, the
old home farm of the mansion, and the two very
quaint and ancient lions surmounting the pillars of
the gate at the north end of St. Bernard?s Row,
and which local tradition avers came from the
Castle of Edinburgh.
Of the different families who have possessed this
estate, and inhabited first the baronial tower, and
latterly the manor-house there, but a few disjointed
notices can alone be gleaned.
?The lands upon which I live at Inverleith,?
says the late eminent antiquary, Cosmo Innes, in
his ?Scottish Legal Antiquities,? ? which I can
trace back by charters into the possession of the
baker of William the Lion, paid, in the time of
King Robert I., a hundred shillings of stediizgs.
(The coinage of the Easterlings.) Some fields beside
me are still called the Baxteis (i.e., Baker?s)
Lands.?
And this is after a lapse of seven hundred
years.
Among the charters of Robert I. is one to
William Fairly of the lands of Inverleith, in the
county of Edinburgh. Among those of David 11.
is another charter of the same lands to William
Ramsay ; and another, by Robert II., of the same
to David Ramsay.
The date of the latter charter is given in the
?Douglas Peerage? as the 2nd of July, 1381, and
the recipient as the second son of the gallant and
patriotic Sir William Ramsay of Dalhousie, who
drew the English into an ambuscade at the battle
of Nisbetmuir in 1355, and caused their total
rout.
In time to come Inverleith passed to the Touris.
In 1425 John of Touris (or Towers) appears a?
a bailie of Edinburgh, with Adam de Bonkill and
John Fawside.
In 1487 William Touris of Innerleith (doubtless
his son) granted an annuity of fourteen merks for
the support of a chaplain to officiate at St. Anne?s
altar, in St. Cuthbert?s Church. George Touris was
a bailie of the city in 1488-92, and in the fatal year
of Flodden, 1513, 19th August, he is designated
?President? of the city, the provost of which-
Sir Alexander Lauder-was killed in the battle ;
and Francis Touris (either a son or brother) was
a bailie in the following year.
? In the ?? Burgh Records,? under date 1521, when
the Lairds of Restalrig and Craigmillar offered at
a Town Council meeting to be in readiness tw
resist the king?s rebels, in obedience to his royal
letters, for the safety of his person, castle, and
town; hereupon, ? Schir Alexander Touris of-
Innerleith protestit sik lik.?
In 1605, Sir George Touris of Garmilton,
knight, succeeded his father John of Inverleith in
the dominical lands thereof, the mill and craig ofi
that name, the muir and fortalice of Wardie, and
Bell?s land, alias the ? Lady?s land of Inverleith.?
Sir John Touris of Inverleith mamed Lady
Jean Wemyss, a daughter of the first Lord Wemyss
of Elcho, afterwards Earl, who died in 1649. In
1648 this Sir John had succeeded his father, Sir
Alexander Touris, knight in the lands of Inverleith,
Wardie, Tolcroce, Highriggs, &c.
The epoch of the Commonwealth, in 1652, saw
John Rocheid, heir to his father James, a merchant
and burgess of Edinburgh, in ?? the Craig of Inverleith,?
(? Retours.?) This would imply Craigleith,
as from the ?Retours ? in 1665, Inverleith, in
the parish of St. Cuthbert?s, went from James Halyburton,
proprietor thereof, to Alexander, his father.
And in ?? Dirleton?s Decisions,? under date 1678,
Halyburton, ? late of Inverleith,? is referred to as
a prisoner for debt at Edinburgh. So from them
the estate had passed to the Rocheids.
Sir James Rocheid of Inverleith, petitioned the
Privy Council in 1682, for permission to ?? enclose
and impark some ground,? under an Act of 1661 ;
and in 16yz he entailed the estate. In 1704 he was
made a baronet.
In the ?Scottish Nation,? we are told that
Rocheid of Inverleith, a name originating in a
personal peculiarity, had as a crest a man?s head
rough and hairy, the same borne by the Rocheids
of Craigleith. The title became extinct in the
person of Sir Jarnes, the second baronet, whose.
daughter and co-heiress, Mary, married Sir Francis
Kinloch, Bart., and her third son, on succeeding. ... . OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Inverleith. the long hill on the south side of the West Port, from Cowfeeder Row to ...

Book 5  p. 94
(Score 0.19)

350 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Roslin
minute decorations of the latest species of the
Tudor age. It is impossible to designate the architecture
of this building by any given or familiar
term, for the variety and eccentricity of its parts
are not to be defined by any words of common
acceptation.?
Though generally spoken of as if it were the chapel
of the adjacent castle, this most costly edifice was
erected as a collegiate church, to be ministered to
by a provost, six prebendaries, and two choristers.
Captain Slezer states that ? there goes a tradition
that, before the death of any of the family of
Roslin this chapel appears to be all on fire ; ? and it
was this brief line of that most prosaic writer which
suggested the noble ballad of Scott: The legend
is supposed to be of Norse origin, imported by the
Earls of Orkney to Roslin, as the tomb-fires of
the North are mentioned in most of the Sagas. The
chapel was desecrated by a mob in I 688, anQ though
partially repaired by General St. Clair about 1720,
for more than a century and a half it remained
windowless and mouldy. On Easter Tuesday, 1862,
it was repaired, and opened for service by the clergy
of the Scottish Episcopal communion.
In this building we have the common stock legend
of one of the finest pieces of workmanship beingcompletedbyanapprentice
duringtheabsence of the master,
who in rage and mortification puts him to death.
The famous Apprentice?s Pillar is called by Slezer
the ? Prince?s Pillar,? as the founder had the title
of Prince of Orkney, This pillar is the wreathed
one, so markedly distinct from all the others, and
was most probably the ?? Master?s Pillar ; ? but
among the grotesque heads, it was not difficult for
old Annie Wilson, the guide, who figures in the
Gentleman?s Magazi?zc for 1817, to find those of
the irate master, the terrified apprentice, and his
sorrowing mother.
It was from the MSS. of Father Hay, in the
Advocates? Library, that the striking legend of the
Sinclairs being buried in their armour was taken
by Sir Walter. Scott. He wrote at the commencement
of the eighteenth century, and was present at
the opening of the tomb, wherein lay Sir Wdliam
Sinclair, who, he says, was interred in 1650, on
the day the battle of Dunbar was fought ; and he
thus describes the body :-
? He was lying in his armour, with a red velvet
cap on his head, on a flat stone. Nothing was
spoiIed except a piece of the white furring that
uyent round the cap, and answered to the hinder
part of the head. All his predecessors were buried
in the same manner in their armour. Late Roslin,
my gud father, was the first that was buried in a
coffin, against the sentiments of King James VII.,
who was then in Scotland, and several other
persons well versed in antiquity, to whom my
mother would not hearken, thinking it beggarly to
be buried after that manner, The great expense
she was at in burying her husband occasioned the
sumptuary Acts which were made in the next Parliament.?
This refers to the Act ? restraining the
exorbitant expense of marriages, baptisms, and
burials,? passed in 1681 at Edinburgh.
In a vault near the north wall, there lie, under
a flag-stone, ten barons of Roslin, buried before
1690, according to the ? New Statistical Account.?
In the west wall of the north aisle is the tomb
of George, fourth Earl of Caithness, one of the
peers who sat on the trial of Bothwell, and who
died at an advanced age. It bears the following
inscription :-
? H I ~ JACET NOBILE AC POTIS DOMINUS GEORGIUS,
QUONDAM COMES CATHANENSIS, DOMINUS SINCLAR,
OBIIT EDINBURCI g DIE MENSIS SEPTEMBRIS, ANNO
DOMINI 1582.?
It is supposed that an authentic history of th;s
family-one of the most remarkable in the three
Lothians-might throw much light on the history
of masonry in Scotland. Among the MSS. in
Father Hay?s collection there is one which acknowledges
in remarkable terms the prerogatives
of the Roslm family in reference to the Maso&
craft.
?The deacons, masters, and freemen of the
masons and hammermen within the Kingdom of
Scotland ? assert ?? that for as mickle as from adage
to adage it has been observed amongst us and our
predecessors that the Lauds of Roslin have ever
bein patrons and protectors of us and our privileges,
like as our predecessors has obeyed, reverenced,
and acknowledged them as patrons and protectors,
whereof they had letters of protection and other
rights granted by his majesty?s most noble progenitors.?
The MS. then proceeds to record that
the documents referred to had perished with the
family muniments in some conflagration ; but that
they acknowledge the continuance of the Masonic
Patronage in the House of Sinclair. The MS. is
dated 1630, and signed thus :-? The Lodge of
Dundee - Robert Strachane, master - Andrew
Wast and DaI-id Whit, masters in Dundee; with
our hands att the pen, led be the Notar, undersubscrivand
at our commands, because we cannot
writ.?
At least twenty-two special masons? marks are
visible on the stones at Roslin.
The edifice has attached to it what is said to
have been an under chapel, although it is on the
JUSTICIARIUS HEREDITORIUS DIOCESIS CATHANENSIS QUI ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Roslin minute decorations of the latest species of the Tudor age. It is impossible to ...

Book 6  p. 350
(Score 0.19)

330 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. 1174S- .
to England or theremote districts of Scotland. The
old Chevalier was proclaimed as James VIII., in
all large towns where, and particularly in the capital,
the concealed friends of his cause avowed their
sentiments, and joined the old Jacobites in drinking
deep potations to a prince, who, as his organ
the Caledonian Mercury, had it, ?? could eat a dry
crust, sleep on pease straw, take his dinner in four
minutes, and win a battle in five.? The ladies
especially, by their enthusiasm, contributed not a
little to produce great action in his favour. ?All
Jacobites,? wrote President Forbes at this time, to
Sir Andrew Mitchell, ? how prudent soever, became
mad ; all doubtful people became Jacobites; all
bankrupts became heroes, and talked of nothing but
hereditary rights and victory. And what was more
grievous to men of gallantry-and, if you will
believe me, much more mischievous to the public
-all the fine ladies, if you will except one or two,
became passionately fond of the young adventurer,
and used all their arts and industry for him in the
most temperate manner.?
Meanwhile the gamson in the Castle obtained
from certain Whig friends a supply of provisions,
which, by ropes, they drew up in barrels and baskets,
on the west side of the rock ; but neither the Highlanders
nor the citizens suffered any molestation
till the night of the 25th September, when the
veteran Preston, on going his rounds in a wheelchair,
being alarmed by a sound like that of goats
scrambling among the rocks, he declared it to be a
Highland escalade, and opened a fire of musketry
and cannon from Drury?s battery, beating down
several houses in the West Port.
In consequence of this the prince strengthened
his picket at the Weigh-house, to prevent all intercourse
with the fortress, upon which Preston
wrote to Provost Stewart, intimating that unless
free communication was permitted he would
open- a heavy cannonade. On this, the town
council represented to the prince the danger in
which the city stood. ? Gentlemen,? he replied,
<?I ani equally concerned and surprised at the
barbarity of those who would bring distress upon
the city for what its inhabitants have not the powei
to prevent; but if, out of compassion, I should
Temove my guards from the Castle, you might with
equal reason require me to abandon the city.?
He also assured them that the injuries of the
citizens would be repaid out of the estates of the
0fficers.h the Castle, ?and that reprisals would be
made upon all who were known abettors of the
German government.? General Preston being
further informed that his brother?s house at Valleyfield
would be destroyed, he replied that in that
case he would cause the war-ships in the Forth to
burn down Wemyss Castle, the seat of Lord Elcho?s
father; but after some altercation with the council,
the grim veteran agreed to suspend hostilities till he
received fresh orders from London. Next day, however,
owing to some misunderstanding, the Highland
picket fired on certain persons who were conveying
provisions into the Castle, the guns of which opened
on the Weigh-house, killing and wounding several
in the streets. Charles retaliated by enforcing a
strict blockade ; and, in revenge, Preston?s gamson
fired on every Highlander that came in sight.
On this, by order of the Adjutant-General, Lord
George Murray, the picket was removed to the
north side of the High Street ; but, as it was found
inconvenient to relieve the post by corps, the gallant
Lochiel undertook the entire blockade with his
Camerons, who for that purpose were placed in the
Parliament House.
Several loose characters, among whom was
Daddie Ratcliff-who occupies so prominent a
post in Scott?s ?Heart of Midlothian ?-dressed as
Highlanders, committed some outrages and robberies
; but all were captured and shot, chiefly by
Perth?s Regiment, on Leith Links.
Charles contemplated the summons of a Scottish
Parliament, but contented himself with denouncing,
on the 3rd of October, ?? the pretended Parliament
summoned by the Elector of Hanover at Westminster,?
and declaring it treason for the Scots to attend.
On the preceding day the following proclamation
was issued from Holyrood.
?CHARLES P. R. being resolved that no communication
?shall be open between the Castle and
town of Edinburgh during our residence in the
capital, and to prevent the bad effects of reciprocal
firing, from thence and from our troops, whereby
the houses and inhabitants of our city may
innocently suffer, we hereby make public notice,
that none shall dare, without a special pass, signed
by our secretary, upon pain of death, either resort
to, or come from the said Castle, upon any pretence
whatsoever ; with certification of any persons convicted
of having had such intercourse, after this our
proclamation shall immediately be carried to execution.
Given at our palace of Holyrood House,
2nd Oct., 1745.
Another guard was posted the next day at the
West Church, while the Camerons began to form
a trench and breastwork below the reservoir
across the Castle Hill, but were compelled to retire
under a fire of cannon from the Half-moon, and
musketry from the iite-du@nf, with the loss of
some killed and wounded. Among the former was
me officer. Another picket was now placed at
(Signed) J. MURRAY.? ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. 1174S- . to England or theremote districts of Scotland. The old Chevalier was ...

Book 2  p. 330
(Score 0.19)

I20 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Pr?nees Street.
New Town, they are surprised at its being so badly
lighted and watched at night. The half of the
North Bridge next the Old Town is well lighted,
while the half next the New remains in total darkness.
London and Westminster are lighted all the
year through.? Among the improvements in the
same year, we read of two hackneycoach stands
being introduced by the magistrates-one at St.
Andrew?s Church and another at the Registei
House ; but sedans were then in constant use, and
did not finally disappear till about 1850.
?In Edinburgh there*is no trade,? wrote a
German traveller-said to be M. Voght, of Hamburg,
in 1795 ; ?but from this circumstance society
is a gainer in point both of intelligence and of
eloquence. . . . . It is but justice to a
place in which I have spent one of the most agreeable
winters of my life to declare, that nowhere
more completely than there have I found realised
my idea of good society, or met with a circle of men
better informed, more amicable, greater lovers of
truth, or of more unexceptionable integrity. During
six months I heard no invectives uttered, no catching
at wit practised, no malignant calumnies invented
or retailed; and I seldom left a company
without some addition to my knowledge or new
incitements to philanthropy. To name and to
describe the persons ? composing this society, and
to introduce them to your readers, is a pleasure
which I cannot deny myself.?
Among those whom he met in the Edinburgh of
that day M. Voght mentions Dugald Stewart,
(? the Bacon of Metaphysics ? ; Fraser Tytler, Lord
Woodhouselee ; Mackenzie, ? The Man of Feeling
; ? Drs. Black, Blair, Munro, and Coventry the
lecturer on agriculture ; Professor Playfair, Dr.
Gregory, and the amiable Sir William Forbes;
Sir John Sinclair of Ulbster, and Colonel Dirom,
the historian of Tippoo Sahib, and Sir Alexander
Mackenzie ; adding :-?What makes the society
in Edinburgh particularly attractive is the crowd
of Scotsmen who have been long in the East
and West Indies, and have returned thither-old
officers who have served in the army and navy,
and all of whom in their youth have had the
advantage of academical instruction.?
Lady Sinclair, he tells us, ?(is one of the prettiest
women in all Scotland,? and that Creech, the bookseller,
was one of his ?most valuable acquaintances.?
Among others, he enumerates Sir James
Hall of Dunglass, Lords Eskgrove, Ancrum, and
Fincastle, Professor Rutherford the botanist, Lord
Monboddo, and many more, as those making up the
circle of a delightful and intellectual society in a
city, the population of which, including Leith, was
then only 81,865, of whom 7,206 were in the New
Town.
At the close of the century the first academy
for classical education was opened there by
William Laing, AM., father of Alexander Gordon
Laing, whose name is so mournfully connected
with African discovery. In that establishment Mr.
Ling laboured for thirty-two years, and was one of
the most p3pular teachers of his day.
In 1811 the population of the city and Leith
had increased to 102,987, and exclusive of the
latter it was 82,624. By 1881 the estimated
population was 290,637.
It was in the year 1805 that the Police Act for
the city first came? into operation, when John Tait,
Esq., was appointed Judge of the Court. Prior
to this the gu,udianship of the city had been entirely
in the hands of the old Town Guard, which
was then partially reduced, save a few who were
retained for limitea and special service. The
Commissioners of Police first substituted gas for
oil lamps; and in 1823 the papers announce that
these officials had ?fitted up 341 new gas pillars,
chiefly in the New Town; they are in progress
with other forty-two, and have given orders for
other 245 gas lights, chiefly in the Old Town.
They are to sell the superseded lamp-irons and
globes, from which they may realise about iC;600.?
By that time the last traces of ancient manners
had nearly departed. ?? The old claret-drinkers,?
says a writer in 1824, ?are brought to nothing, and
some of them are under the sod. The court
dresses, in which the nobility and gentry appeared
at the balls and first circles in Edinburgh, together
with their dress swords or rapiers, are all ?haz1c
6t-m~; for there has been introduced a half-dress
-and it ,is a half-dress: nay, some ladies make
theirs less than half; while the swords of the welldressed
men have been dropped for the $sty and
the dashing blades of the present day learn to mZZ,
to fib, and to floor, and to give a facer with their
? mawlies,? and other equally gentleman-like accomplishments.?
Elsewhere he says :-? To prove
the more tenacious adhesion of the Scotch to
French manners and old fashions, I can assert that
for one cocked hat which appeared in the streets of
London within the last forty years, a dozen passed
current in Add Reekie.?
The houses first numbered in Princes Street
were in the south portion, which caused the legal
contention in I 774, and the continuation of which
was so fortunately arrested by the Court of Session,
and there the numbers run from I to 9.
No. 2 was occupied in 1784 by Robertson, ?;a
ladies? hairdresser,? where, as per advertisement, ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Pr?nees Street. New Town, they are surprised at its being so badly lighted and ...

Book 3  p. 120
(Score 0.19)

THE ROYAL INFIRMARY. 299 h6rmary Street]
students to witness surgical operations. The Infirmary
has separate wards for male and female
patients, and a ward which is used as a Lock
hospital ; but even in ordinary periods the building
had become utterly incompetent for the service
of Edinburgh, and during the prevalence of an epidemic
afforded but a mere fraction of the required
accommodation, and hence the erection of its magnificent
successor, to which we shall refer elsewhere.
The Earl of Hopetoun, in 1742, and for the last
twenty-five years of his life, generously contributed
A400 per annum to the institution when it was
young and struggling. In 1750 Dr. Archibald Kerr
of Jamaica bequeathed to it an estate worth
E218 11s. 5d. yearly; and five years afterwards
the Treasury made it a gift of jG8,ooo j yet it has
never met with the support from Government. that
it ought to have done, and which similar institutions
in London receive.
But the institution owed most of its brilliant
success to Lord Provost Drummond. Among his
associates in this good work he had the honoured
members of the Colleges of Physicians and Surgeons
in Edinburgh, ever first in all works of goodness and
charity; and the first Dr. Munro, Professor of
Anatomy, was singularly sanguine of the complete
success of the undertaking.
That portion of the house which was founded by
the Earl of Cromarty was opened for the reception
of patients in December, 1741. The theatre described
was made to serve the purposes also of a
chapel, and twelve cells on the ground floor, for cases
of delirium fremens, being found unnecessary, were
converted into kitchens and larders, &c. The
grounds around the house, consisting of two acres,
and long bounded on- the south by the city wall,
were laid out into grass walks for the convalescents,
and ultimately the house was amply supplied with
water from the city reservoir.
In the years 1743-4 the sick soldiers of the
regiments quartered in the Castle were accommodated
in the Infirmary; and in the stormy
period of the '45 it was of necessity converted into
a great military hospital for the sick and wounded
troops of both armies engaged at Prestonpans and
elsewhere ; and in I 748 the surgeon-apothecaries,
who since 1729 had given all manner of medical
aid gratis, were feed for the first time. Wounded
from our armies in Flanders have been sent there
for treatment.
In 1748, after paying for the site, building,
furniture, &c., the stock of the institution amounted
to &5,00o; and sick patients not wishing to be resident
were invited to apply for advice on Mondays
and Fridays, and were in cases of necessity
admitted as supernumeraries at the rate of 6d. per
day. About this time there was handed over an
Invalid Grant made by Government to the city,
on consideration of sixty beds being retained for
the use of all soldiers who paid 4d. per diem for
accommodation, This sum, &3, 2 70, was fully made
over to the managers, who, for some time afteqfound
themselves called upon to entertain so many military
patients, that a guard had to be mounted on
the house to enforce order; and liberty was obtained
to deposit all dead patients in Lady Yester's
churchyard, on the opposite side of the street.
Hitherto the physicians had, with exemplary
fidelity, attended the patients in rotation j but in
January, 1751, the managers on being empowered
by the general court of contributors, selected Dr.
David Clerk and Dr, Colin Drummond, physicians
in ordinary, paying them the small honorarium of
;E30 annually.
The University made offer to continue its
services, together with those of the ordinary physicians,
which offer was gladly accepted; and
though the practice fell into disuse, they were long
continued in monthly rotation. To the option of
the two ordinary physicians was left the visiting
of the patients conjointly, or by each taking his
own department. "It was their duty to sign the
tickets of admission and dismission. In case of any
unforeseen occurrences or dangerous distemper, the
matron or clerks were permitted to use this authe
rity ; the physicians en their amval, however, were
expected to append their signatures to the tickets.
The good and economy of the house from the first,
induced the managers to appoint two of their
number to visit the institution once every month,
who were enjoined to inquire how far the patients
were contented with their treatment, and to note
what they found inconsistent with the ordinary
regulations : their remarks to be entered in a book
of reports, to come under review at the first meeting
of managers." (" Journal of Antiq.," VoL 11.)
In 1754 some abuses prevailed in the mode of
dispensing medicines to the out-door patients,
detrimental to the finances ; an order was given for
a more judicious and sparing distribution. In the
following pear application was made to the Town
Council, as well as to the Presbytery of the Church,
to raise money at their several churches to provide
a ward for sick servants-which had been found
one of the most useful in the house. From its
first institution the ministers of the city had, in
monthly rotation, conducted the religious services ;
but in the middle of 1756 the managers appointed
aregular chaplain, whose duty it was to preach
every Monday in the theatre for surgical operations. ... ROYAL INFIRMARY. 299 h6rmary Street] students to witness surgical operations. The Infirmary has separate ...

Book 4  p. 299
(Score 0.19)

210 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street.
likely to have arisen. It happened by accident
that the Earl of Bothwell, coming out of the Earl
of Crawford?s lodging, was met by the Earl of Marr,
who was coming out of the Laird of Lochleven?s
lodging hard by; as it being about ten o?clock at
night, and so dark that they could not know one
another, he passed by, not knowing that the
Master of Glammis was there, but thinking it was
only the Earl of Marr. However, it was said that
some ambushment of men and hackbuttiers had
been duressed in the house by command of both
parties.?
Some brawl or tragedy had evidently been on
the tapis, for next day the king had the Earl of
Bothwell and the Master before him at Holyrood,
and committed the former to ward .in the Palace
of Linlithgow, and the latter in the Castle of Edinburgh,
? for having a band of hacquebuttiers in
ambush with treasonable intent.?
Passing to more peaceable times, on the same
side of the street, we come to one of the most
picturesque edifices in it, numbered as 155 (and
nearly opposite Niddry Street), in which Allan
Ramsay resided and began his earlier labours, ?at
the sign of the Mercury,? before he removed, in
1726, to the shop in the Luckenbooths, where we
saw him last.
It is an ancient timber-fronted land, the sinplarly
picturesque aspect of which was much marred
by some alterations in 1845, but herein worthy
Allan first prosecuted his joint labours of author,
editor, and bookseller. From this place he issued
his poems in single or half sheets, as they were
mitten ; but in whatever shape they always found
a ready sale, the citizens being wont to send their
children with a penny for ? Allan Ramsay?s last
piece.? Here it was, that in 1724 he published
the first volume of ?The Tea Table Miscellany,?
a collection of songs, Scottish and English,
dedicated
? To ilka lovely British lass,
Frae Ladies Charlotte, Anne and Jean,
Wha dances barefoot on the green.?
This publication ran through twelve editions, and
its early success induced him in the same year to
bring out ? The Evergreen,? a collection of Scottish
poems, ?? wrote by the Ingenious before 1600,?
professed to be selected from the Bannatyne MSS.
And here it was that .Ramsay- had some of his
hard struggles with the magistrates and clergy,
who deemed and denounced all light literature,
songs, and plays, as frivolity and open profanity, in
She sour fanatical spirit of the age.
Doon to ilk bonny singing Bess
Religion, in form, entered more into the daily
habits of the Scottish people down to 1730 than it
now does. Apart from regular attendance at
church, and daily family worship, each house had
some species of oratory, wherein, according to the
Domestic Annals, ? the head of the family could
at stated times retire for his private devotions,
which were usually of a protracted kind, and often
accompanied by great moanings and groanings,
expressive of an intense sense of human worthlessness
without the divine favour.? Twelve
o?clock was the hour for the cold Sunday dinner.
(? Nicety and love of rich feeding were understood
to be the hateful peculiarities of the English, and
unworthy of the people who had been so much
more favoured by God in the knowledge of matters
of higher concern.? Puritanic rigour seemed to
be destruction for literature, and when Addison,
Steele, and Pope, were conferring glory on that of
England, Scotland had scarcely a writer of note ;
and Allan Ramsay, in fear and trembling of legal
and clerical censure, lent out the plays of Congreve
and Farquhar from that quaint old edifice
numbered 155, High Street.
The town residence of the Ancrum family was
long one of the finest specimens of the timberfronted
tenements of the High Street. It stood on
the north side, at the head of Trunk?s Close,
behind the Fountain Well, and though it included
several rooms with finely-stuccoed ceilings, and a
large hall, beautifully decorated with rich pilasters
and oak panelling-and was undoubtedly worthy
of being preserved-it was demolished in 1873.
Here was the first residence of Scott of Kirkstyle,
who, in 1670, obtained a charter under the great
seal of the barony of Ancrum, and in the following
year was created Sir John Scott, Baronet, by
Charles 11.
In 1703 the house passed into the possession of
Sir Gilbert Elliot, Bart., of Stobs, who resided here
with his eight sons, the youngest of whom, for his
glorious defence of Gibraltar, was created Lord
Heathfield in 1787.
On the same side of the street, Archibald
Constable, perhaps the most eminent publisher
that Scotland has produced, began business in a
small shop, in the year 1795, and from there, in
the November .of that year, he issued the first of
that series of sale catalogues of curious and rare
books, which he continued for a few years to
issue at intervals, and which attracted to his shop
all the bibliographers and lovers of literature in
Edinburgh.
Hither came, almost daily, such men as Richard
Heber, afterwards M.P. for the University of ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street. likely to have arisen. It happened by accident that the Earl of ...

Book 2  p. 210
(Score 0.19)

Cowgate-l CAPTAIN CAYLEY. 243
Bridge, with a boldly moulded doorway, inscribed,
TECUM HABITA, 1616,
(i.e., ? keep at home ? or ? mind your own affairs ?)
indicates the once extensive tenement occupied by
the celebrated Sir Thomas Hope, King?s Advocate
of Charles I. in 1626, and one of the foremost men
.in Scotland, and who organised that resolute opposition
to the king?s unwise interference with the
Scottish Church, which ultimately led to the great
civil war, the ruin of Charles and his English
councillors.
This mansion was one of the finest and most
spacious of its day, and possessed a grand oak
staircase. ?AT HOSPES HUMO? was carved upon
one of the lintels, an anagram on the name of the
sturdy old Scottish statesman. In the Coltness
Collections, published by the Maitland Club, is
the following remark :-?? If the house near Cowgeat-
head, north syde that street, was built by
Sir Thomas Hope, the inscription on one of the
lintall-stones supports this etymologie-(viz., that
the Hopes derive their name from Houblon, the
Hopplant, and not from Zq%rance, the virtue of
the mind), for the anagram is At hs&s humo, and
has all the letters of Thomas Houpe.? But Hope
is a common name, and the termination of many
localities in Scotland.
In the tapestried chambers of this old Cowgate
mansion were held many of the Councils that led
to the formation of the noble army of the Covenant,
the camp of Dunselaw, and the total rout of the
English troops at Newburnford. Hope was held
by the Cavaliers in special abhorrence. ?Had
the d-d old rogue survived the Restohtion
he would certainly have been hanged,? wrote C.
Kirkpatrick Sharpe. ?My grandfather?s grandfather,
Sir Charles Erskine of Alva, disgraced
himself by marrying his daughter, an ugly slut.?
Honours accorded to him by Charles failed to
detach him from the national cause; in 1638 he
was one of the framers of the Covenant, and in
1645 was a Commissioner of Exchequer. Two of
his sons being raised to the bench while he was
yet Lord Advocate, he was allowed to wear his hat
when pleading before them, a privilege which the
Ring?s Advocate has ever since enjoyed.
He died in 1646, but must have quitted his
Cowgate mansion some time before that, as it
became the residence of Mary, Countess of John,
seventh Earl of Mar, guardian of Henry Duke
of Rothesay (afterwards Prince of Wales). She was
the daughter of Esme Stuart, Lord D?Aubigne and
Duke of Lennox, and she died in Hope?s house on
the 11th May, 1644.
These and the adjacent tenements, removed to
make way for the new bridge, were all of varied
character and of high antiquity, displaying in some
instances timber fronts and shot windows.
A little farther eastward were the old Back
Stairs, great flights of stone steps that led through
what was once the Kirkheugh, to the Parliament
Close. Here resided the young English officer,
Captain Cayley, whose death at the hands of the
beautiful Mrs. Macfarlane, on the 2nd October,
1716, made much noise in its time, and was referred
to by Pope in one of his letters to Lady
Mary Wortley Montagu.
Captain John Cayley, Commissioner of Customs,
was a conspicuous member of a little knot of unwelcome
and obnoxious English officials, whom
new arrangements subsequent to the Union had
brought into Edinburgh. He seems to have been
a vain . and handsome fellow, whose irregular
passions left him little prudence or discretion.
Among his new acquaintances in the Scottish
capital was a young married woman of uncommon
beauty, the daughter of Colonel Charles Straitona
well-known adherent of James VII1.-and wife
of John Macfarlane, Writer to the Signet, at one
time agent to Simon Lord Lovat. By her mother?s
side she was the grand-daughter of Sir Andrew
Forester.
One Saturday forenoon Mrs. Macfarlane, then
only in her twentieth year, and some months
enceinte, was exposed by the treachery of Captain
Cayley?s landlady to an insult of the most atrocious
kind on his part, in his house adjacent to the Back
Stairs-one account says opposite to them. On
the Tuesday following he visited Mrs. Macfarlane
at her own house, and was shown into the drawingroom,
anxious-his friends alleged--to apologise
for his recent rudeness. Other accounts say that
he had meanly and revengefully circulated reports
derogatory to her honour, and that she was resolved
to punish him. Entering the room with a brace of
pistols in her hand, she ordered him to leave the
house instantly. .
?What, madam,? said he, ? d?ye design to act a
comedy?? ?If you do not retire instantly you
will find it a tragedy!? she replied, sternly.
As he declined to obey her command, she fired
one of the pistols-cayley?s own pair, borrowed but
a few days before by her husband-and wounded
his left wrist With what object-unless selfpreservation-
it is impossible to say, Cayley drew
his sword, and the moment he did so, she shot him
through the heart So close were they together
that Cayley?s shirt was burned at the left sleeve by
one pistol, and at the breast by the other, ... CAPTAIN CAYLEY. 243 Bridge, with a boldly moulded doorway, inscribed, TECUM HABITA, 1616, (i.e., ? ...

Book 4  p. 243
(Score 0.19)

,338 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [North Bridge.
less than eight feet of this loose earth between his
shovels and the natural solid clay, Another error
seems to ha\-e been committed in not raising the
piers to a sufficient height ; and to remedy this he
raised about? eight feet of earth upon the vaults
and arches at the south end, causing thereby a
regular, but still unsightly slope.
The result of all this was that on the 3rd of
August, 1769, this portion gave way, by the mass
of earth having been swollen by recent rains.
The abutments burst, the vaults yielded to the
pressure, and five persons were buried in the ruins,
out of which they were dug at different times.
This event caused the greatest excitement in the
city, and had it happened half an hour sooner
might have proved very calamitous, as a vast
,multitude of persons of every religious denomination
was assembled in Orphan Hospital Park,
northward of the Trinity College church, to hear a
sermon preached by Mr. Townsend, an Episcopal
clergyman ; and after it was over some would have
had to cross the bridge, and others pass beneath
it, to their homes. Three or four scattered houses
were already erected in the New Town j but after
this event it was some time before people took
courage to erect more.
The bridge was repaired by pulling down the
side walls, rebuilding them with chain bars, removing
the vast masses of earth, and supplying its
place with hollow arches, and by raising the walls
that crossed the bridge, so that the vaults which
sprang from them might bring the road to a proper
elevation. Strong buttresses and counterforts were
added to the south end, and on these are erected
the present North Bridge Street. At the north
end there is only one counterfort on the east side;
but ere all this was done. there had been a plea
in law between the contracting parties before the
Court of Session, and an appeal to the House of
Lords, in both of which Mr. Mylne was unfortunate.
The expense of completion amounted to
&17,354. The height?of the great arches from the
top of the parapet to the base is 68 feet.
The bridge was first passable in 1772 ; but the
balustrades being open, a complaint was made
publicly in 1783 that ?passengers continue to be
blown from the pavement into the mud in the
middle of the bridge.? Those at the south end
were closed in 1782, thus screening the eyes ?! of
passengers from the blood and slaughter,? in the
markets below, according to the appendix to
Amot?s ?? History;? and regarding the tempests of
wind, to which Edinburgh is so subject, elsewhere
he tells us that in 1778 ?? the Leith Guard, consisting-
of a sergeant and twelve, men of the 70th
Regiment, were all there blown of the Castle Hilland
some of them sorely hurt.?
In 1774 the magistrates proclaimed that all
beggars found in the streets would be imprisoned
in the dark vaults beneath the North Bridge, and
there fed on bread and water.
From the then new buildings erected on the southwest
end of the bridge, a flight of steps upward
gives access to Mylne?s Court; and two flights
downward lead to the old market at the foot of the
Fleshmarket Close. 1
In Edgais plan, 1765, the Upper and Lower
Fleshmarkets are both shown as being in this.
quarter, and also that the bridge had run through a,
great portion of the ancient Greenmarket. Kincaid
$bus describes them in his time (1794) as.
consisting of three divisions forming oblong
squares. ? The uppermost is allotted for the veal
market, and as yet only finished on the north side;
the middlemost is occupied by the incorporation of
fleshers, and is neatly fitted up and arched all
round, and .each division numbered; the other,.
called the Low Market, is likewise arched round,
but not numbered, and allotted for those that are.
not of the incorporation. Few cities in Britain are.
better supplied with butcher meat of all kinds than.
this city, an instance of which, occurred in 1781.
Admiral Parker, with a fleet of 15 sail of the line,
g frigates, and 600 merchantmen, lay nearly two.
months in Leith Roads, and was supplied with every
kind of provisions, and the markets were not raised,
one farthing, although there could not be less than
zo,ooo men for nearly seven weeks. Merchants from;
different parts of Britain who, either from motives
of humanity, or esteeming it a profitable adventure,
had sent four transports with fresh provisions to,
the fleet, had them returned without breaking bulk.?
The market is now much more complete and.
perfect than in the days referred to, and smaller
town markets than the central suite are open in
other quarters. .
In the block of buildings next the north market
stair the General Post Office for Scotland was.
established, after its removal from Lord Covington?s
house; after which, in 1821, it was transferred
to a new edifice on the Regent Bridge, at which,
period, we are told, the despatch of the mails was
Zonducted in an apartment about thirty feet square,
ind purposely kept as dark as possible, in order to
Jerive the full advantage of artificial light employed
in the process of examining letters, to see
whether they contained enclosures or not. At this
time James Earl of Caithness was Deputy Postnaster-
General for Scotland.
The same edifice was latterly, and until their. ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [North Bridge. less than eight feet of this loose earth between his shovels and the ...

Book 2  p. 338
(Score 0.18)

Leith] SH EKIFF BRAE. 247
Leith by the rebels of Mary Queen of Scots, the
Earl of Lennox opened his council in the chambers
of the old tenement referred to, on the Coal Hill,
and it is, says Robertson, decorated with a rosethe
emblem of his connectian with Henry VIII. of
England-and the thistle for Scotland. Then
followed that war to which Morton?s ferocity imparted
a character so savage that ere long quarter
was neither given nor taken. And amidst it, in
connection with some private feud, some of the
followers of Sir William Kirkaldy, although they
had been ordered merely to use their batons, slew
Henry Setoun on the Shore of Leith, while his feet
were tripped up by an anchor. In escaping to
Edinburgh, one of them was taken and lodged in
the Tolbooth there ; but Kirkaldy came down from
the Castle with a party of his garrison, beat in the
doors, and rescued him, after which he seized ?? the
victualls brought into Leith from the merchants,
and (did} provide all necessarie furniture to endure
a long siege, till supplie was sent from forrane
nations.? (Calderwood.)
On the death of Lennox, John, Earl of Mar, was
made Regent, and fixed his head-quarters in the
same old tenement at the Coal Hill, Morton being
again chief lieutenant.
From the presence of these peers here, it is
probable that the adjacent gloomy, and now filthy,
court, so grotesquely called Parliament Square, obtained
its name, which seems to have been formerly
the Peat Neuk. The old Council House has been
doomed to perish by the new improvement scheme.
In December, 1797, it was ordered by the Lord
Provost, Magistrates, and Council of Edinburgh,
through the deputy shore-master at Leith, that every
vessel coming into the port with coals for public
sale, was to have a berth immediately on her arrival
off the Coal Hill, and that all other vessels were to
unmoor for that purpose, while no shore duties
were to be charged for coal vessels. (HeyaZd and
ChyonicZe, No. 1,215.)
The adjacent Peat Neuk, for years during the
last century and the beginning of the present,
afforded a shelter to those reckless and abandoned
characters who abound in every seaport ; while in
that portion of the town between the Coal Hill and
the foot of the Tolbooth Wynd were a number of
ancient and ruinous houses, the abode of wandering
outcasts, from whom no rent was ever derived
or expected. It was further alleged, in the early
part of the nineteenth century, to be the favourite
haunt of disembodied spirits, whose crimes or
sufferings in life compelled them to wander ; so,
every way, the Coal Hill seems to have been an
unpleasant, as it is still an unsavoury, locality.
From thence, another quarter known as the
Sheriff, or Shirra Brae, extends in a south-westerly
direction, still abounding in ancient houses. Here,
facing the Coal Hill, there stood, till 1840, a very
fine old edifice, described as having been the residence
of a Logan of Restalrig. The dormer
windows, which rose high above the eaves, were
elaborately sculptured with many dates and quaint
devices. Some of these have been preserved in
the north wall of the manse of St. Thomas?s Church.
One of them displays a shield charged with a heart,
surmounted by a fleur-de-lis, with the initials 1.L
and the date 1636 ; another has the initials I.L.,
M.C., with the date 24 Dec., 1636; a third has
the initials M.C., with a shield; while a fourth
gablet has the initials D.D., M.C., and the comparatively
recent date I 734
The supposed grandsoq of the luckless Logan
of the Gowrie conspiracy married Isabel Fowler,
daughter of Ludovic Fowler of Burncastle (says
Robertson), the famous ? Tibbie Fowler ? of
Scottish song, and here she is said to have resided ;
but her husband has been otherwise said to have
been a collateral of the ancient house of Restalrig,
as it is recorded, under date 12th June, 1572-
Majestro Joanne Logan de Shireff Braye,? who
poitpones the case of Christian Gudsonne, wife of
Andrew Burne in Leith, ?dilatit of the mutilation
of Willkm Burne, burgess of Edinburgh, of his
foremost finger be byting thereof.?
In the chartulary, says Robertson, we have also
John Logane of the Coatfield (Kirkgate), and George
Logane of Bonnington Mills is repeatedly alluded
to; ?? and we believe,? he adds, that these branches
?existed as early as the charter of King David.?
The old house at Bmnington still shows a curious
doorway, surmounted by a carefully sculptured
tablet bearing a shield, with a chevron and three
fleurs-de-lis; crest, a ship with sails furled. The
motto and date are obliterated.
. Another writer supposes that if the old house on
the Sheriff Brae was really the residence of George
Logan, it may have been acquired by marriage,
? seeing that the forfeiture of the family possessions
occurred so shortly before ; and this in itself affords
some colour to the tradition that he was the successhl
wooer of Tibbie Fowler.?
In support of this, the historian of Leith says :-
?f We think it not improbable that it was Tibbie?s
tocher that enabled Logan, who was ruined by the
attainder of 1609, to build the elegant mansion on
the Sheriff Brae. The marriage contract between
Logan and Isabella Fowler (supposed to be the
Tibbie of the song) is now in possession of a
gentleman in Leith.? ... SH EKIFF BRAE. 247 Leith by the rebels of Mary Queen of Scots, the Earl of Lennox opened his council in ...

Book 6  p. 247
(Score 0.18)

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