Edinburgh Bookshelf

Edinburgh Bookshelf

Search

Index for “tron church edinburgh”

182 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Bmughton.
superiority of Broughton was yielded by the
Crown, partly in payment of debts due by Charles I.
to the hospital. Thenceforward the barony* was
governed by a bailie, named by the Governors
of the Hospital, who possessed to the full the
baronial powers of pit and gallows over theiI
tenants therein.
Prior to this, in 1629, Kincaid of Warriston was
pursued before the Baron-bailie, but the case was
remitted to the Lord Justice General and the
Judgp, who remitted the affair to the Council.
In 1650, during some portions of the campaign
that preceded the battle of Dunbar, General Leslie
made Broughton his head-quarters, when he threw
up those lines of defence from the base of the
Calton Hill-to Leith, and so completely baffled
Cromwell?s advance upon the city.
After the barony came into the possession ol
Heriot?s Hospital, the Common Council of the
city, on the 17th of July, 1661, gave a grant to
William Johnstone, then Baron-bailie, ? of the
goods and chattels of women condemned for
witchcraft, and which were thereby escheated to
the said bailie.??
On this remarkable grant, Maitland observes in
his History : ? Wherefore, it is not to be wondered
at that innocent persons should be convicted of a
crime they could not be guilty of, when their effects
fall to the judge or judges.?
In 1715, during the insurrection, a party of
Highlanders marching through Broughton were
cannonaded from the Castle, and a six-pound shot
that went through a barn on this occasion, is preserved
in the Antiquarian Museum.
In 1717 Broughton was the scene of the trial
and execution in a remarkable case of murder,
which made famous the old pathway known as
Gabriel?s Road. By some strange misconception,
in ?? Peter?s Letters to his Kinsfolk,? the murderer
is called ?Gabriel,? and in a work called ?Celebrated
Trials? (in six volumes), he is called the
Rev. Thomas Hunter, whereas in reality his name
was Robert Irvine. Of this road, to which we
have already referred, Chambers gives us the following
description :-? Previous to 1767 the eye of
a person perched in a favourable situation in the
Old Town surveyed the whole ground on which
the New Town was built. Inimediately beyond
the North Loch was a range of grass fields called
Bearford?s Parks, from the name of the proprietor,
Hepbum? of Bearford, in East Lothian. Bounding
these on the north, in the line of the subsequent
Princes Street, was a road enclosed by two dry
stone walls, called the Lang Dykes. . . , .
The main mass of ground, originally rough with
whins and broom, but latterly forming what was
called Wood?s Farm, was crossed obliquely by a
road extending between Silver Mills, a rural hamlet
on the mill course of the Leith, and the passage
into the Old Town at the bottom of Halkerston?s
Wynd. There are still some tracesof this
road. You will see it leave Silver Mills behind
West Cumberland Street. Behind Duke Street,
on the west side, the boundary wall of the Queen
Street garden is oblique, in consequence of its
having passed that way. Finally, it terminates in a
short oblique passage behind the Register House,
wherein stood till lately ? Ambrose?s Tavern.
This short passage bore the name of Gabriel?s
Road, and was supposed to do so in connection
with a remarkable murder of which it was the
scene.?
Mr. James Gordon, of Ellon, in Aberdeenshire,
a rich merchant of Edinburgh, and once a bailie
there, in the early part of the eighteenth century
had a villa on the north side of the city, somewhere
between this road and the village of Broughton.
His family consisted of his wife, two sons, and a
daughter, these being all of tender age. He had a
tutor for his two boys-John and Alexander-a
licentiate of the Church, named Robert Irvine, who
was of respectable attainments, but had a somewhat
gloomy disposition. Views of predestination,
drawn from some work of Flavel?s, belonging to
the college library, had taken possession of his
mind, which had, perhaps, some infirmity ready to
be acted upon by external circumstances and dismal
impulses.
Having cast eyes of admiration on a pretty
servant-maid in Mr. Gordon?s house, he was
tempted to take some liberties with her, which
were observed, and mentioned incidentally by his
pupils. For this he was reprimanded by Mr.
Gordon, but on apologising, was forgiven. Into
Irvine?s morbid and sensitive nature the affront, or
rebuke, sank deeply, and a thirst for revenge
possessed him. For three days he revolved the
insane idea of cutting off Mr. Gordon?s three
children, and on the 28th of April, 1717, he found
an opportunity of partially accomplishing his terrible
purpose.
It was Sunday, and Mr. and Mrs. Gordon went
to spend the afternoon with a friend in the city,
taking their little daughter with them. Irvine, left
with the two boys, took them out for a walk along
the then broomy and grassy slope, where now York
Place and St. Andrew Square are situated. While
the boys ran about gathering flowers and pursuing
butterflies, he sat whetting the knife with which
he meant to destroy them ! ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Bmughton. superiority of Broughton was yielded by the Crown, partly in payment of ...

Book 3  p. 182
(Score 0.18)

Heriot?s Hospital.1 WALTER BALCANQU.-II,L. 367
Waucllop Thesauer,? is ordained ? to take down
the stonewark of the south-west tower, and to make
(it) the same as the north-west and north-east
towers ar, and this to be done with all diligence.?
In Rothiemay?s view of the Hospital, published
in 1647, he shows it enclosed by the crenelated
ramparts of the city from the present tower in the
Vennel, and including the other three on the west
and south.
A high wall, with a handsome gateway, bounds
it above the Grassmarket, and on the west a long
wall separates it from the Greyfriars churchyard,
and the entire side of the present Forrest Road.
Gordon?s view is still more remarkable for showing a
lofty spire above the doorway, and the two southern
towers surmounted by cupolas, which they certainly
A somewhat similar view (which has been reproduced
here,* on p. 368) will be found in Slezer?s
?? Theatrum Scotiz,? under the title of Boghengieght.
How this name (which is the name of one
of the Duke of Gordon?s seats) came to be applied
by the engraver to Heriot?s Hospital is not known.
The hospital was filled with the wounded of the
English army, brought thither from the battle-field
of Dunbar by CromwelL And it was used for sick
and wounded soldiers by General Monk, till about
1658, when the governors prevailed upon him to
remove them, accommodation being provided for
them elsewhere,
During this period the governors granted an
annual pension of A55 to a near relation of Heriot,
but not until they had received two urgent notes
from Cromwell. This pension was afterwards resigned.
Many improvements and additions were
made, and the total expenses amounted then to
upwards of ~30,000, when in 1659 it was opened
for the reception of boys on the 11th April, when
30 were admitted. In August they numbered forty,
In 1660 the number was 52; in 1693 it was
130; and in 1793 140.
Fifteen years before the opening of the hospital,
the life of Dr. Walter Balcanquall, the trustee
whom Maitland curiously calls its architect, had
come to a grievous end. The son of the Rev.
Walter Balcanquall, a minister of Edinburgh for
forty-three years, he had graduated at Oxford as
Bachelor of Divinity, and was admitted a Fellow
on the 8th September, 1611; in 1618 he represented-
whiIe royal chaplain-the Scottish Church
at the Synod of Dort, and his letters concerning
that convocation, addressed to Sir Dudley Carleton,
? had till about 1692.
The Editor is indebted to Mr. D. F. Lowe, M.A.. House-Governor
of Heriot?s Hospital, fer assistance very kindly rendered in the matter
cfiUu&ations.
are preserved in Hale?s ?Golden Remains.? 1:
was after he had been successively Dean of
Rochester 2nd of Durham that he was one of
Heriot?s three trustees. In 1638 he accompanied
the Marquis of Hamilton, Royal Commissioner, as
chaplain ; and some doubts of his dealings on this
ahd subsequent occasions rendered him obnoxious to
the Presbyterians of Scotland and the Puritans of
England; and in July, 1641, he and five others
having been denounced as incendiaries by the Scottish
Parliament, after being persecuted, pillaged, and
sequestrated by the Puritans, he shared the falling
fortunes of Cliarles I. He was thrown into Chirk
Castle, Denbighshire, where he died on Christmas
Day, 1645, just after the battle of Naseby, and a
splendid nionunient to his memory was subsequently
erected in the parish churcli of Chirk: by Sir Thomas
Myddleton.
In the hospital records for 1675 is the following,
under date May 3rd :-?There is a necessity that
the steeple of the hospital be finished, and a top
put thereon. Ro. Miln, Master Mason, to think on
a drawing thereof against the next council meeting.,?
But nothing appears to have been done by the
king?s master mason, for on the Ioth?July, Deacon
Sandilands was ordered to put a roof and top on the
said steeple in accordance with a design furnished
by Sir IVilliam Bruce, the architect of Holyrood
Palace.
In 1680, about the time that the obnoxious test
was made the subject of so much mockery,
Fountainhall mentions that ?( the children of
Heriot?s Hospitall, finding that the dog which
keiped the yards of that hospital1 had a public
charge and office, ordained him to take the test,
and offered him the paper ; but he, loving a bone
rather than it, absolutely refused it. Then they
rubbed it over with butter (which they called an
Explication of the Test in imitation of Argile), and
he licked off the butter and did spit out the paper,
for which they held a jurie on him, and in derision
of the sentence against Argile, they found the dog
guilty of treason, and actually hanged him.?
In 1692 the Council Records refer to the abolition
of the cupolas, the appearance of which in old
views of the hospital have caused some discussion
among antiquaries.
?The council having visited the fabric of the
hospital, and found that the south-east quarter
thereof is not yet finished and completed, and that
the south-west quarter is finished and completed by
a pavilion turret of lead, an& that the north-east
and north-west corners of the said fibnc are
covered with a pavilion roof of lead; therefore,
and for making the whole fabric of the said ... Hospital.1 WALTER BALCANQU.-II,L. 367 Waucllop Thesauer,? is ordained ? to take down the stonewark of ...

Book 4  p. 367
(Score 0.18)

Albany Street.] GENERAL SCOTT. 19=
Gray was ordained his successor to that charge in
1773, but he resigned it ten years afterwards. In
1785 he was appointed joint Professor of Mathematics
in the University of Edinburgh with the
celebrated Adam Ferguson, LL.D., and discharged
the duties of that chair till the death of
his friend Professor Robinson, in 1805, when he
was appointed his successor. Among his works
are ? Elements of Geometry ? published in I 796 ;
?Illustrations of the Huttonian Theory of the
Earth ? in 1804; ?? Outlines of Natural Philosophy;?
besides many papers to the scientific department
of the Edinburgh &view and to various other
periodicals.
He died at No. 2, Albany Street, in his seventieth
year, on the 20th of July, 1819. An unfinished
?? Memoir of John Clerk of Eldin,? the inventor of
naval tactics, left by him in manuscript, was
published after his death in the ninth volume of
the ? Edinburgh Transactions.? An interesting account
of the character and merits of this illustrious
mathematician, from the pen of Lord Jeffrey,
was inserted in the ?? Encyclopzdia Britannica ?
and in the memoir prefixed to his works by his
nephew, and a noble monument to his memory
is erected on the Calton Hill.
Northwards of the old village of Broughton,
in the beginning of the present century, the land
was partly covered with trees ; a road led fkom it
to Canonmills by Bellevue to Newhaven, while
another road, by the water of Leith, led westward.
In the centre of what are now the Drummond
Place Gardens stood a country house belonging
to the Lord Provost Drummond, and long inhabited
by him ; he feued seven acres from the
Governors of Heriot?s Hospital. The approach to
this house was by an avenue, now covered by West
London Street, and which entered from the north
road to Canonmills.
On the site of that house General Scott of Balcolnie
subsequently built the large square threestoreyed
mansion of Bellevue, afterwards converted
into the Excise Office, and removed when the
Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee Railway Company
constructed the now disused tunnel from Princes
Street to the foot of Scotland Street.
In 1802 the l a d s of Bellevue were advertised
to be sold ?by roup within the Justiciary
Court Roomy for feuing purposes, but years
elapsed before anything was done in the way of
building. In 1823 the papers announce that
?? preparations are making for levelling Bellevue
Gardens and filling up the sand-pits in that
neighbourhood, with a view to finishing Bellevue
Crescent, which will connect the New Town with
Canonmills on one side, as it is already connected
with Stockbridge on the other.?
By that year Drummond Place was nearly completed,
and the south half of Bellevue Crescent
was finished and occupied; St. Mary?s parish church
was founded and finished in 1824 from designs b j
Mr. Thomas Brown, at the cost of A13,ooo for
1,800 hearers. It has a spire of considerable elegance,
168 feet in height.
General Scott, the proprietor of Bellevue, was
one of the most noted gamblers of his time. It
is related of him that being one night at Stapleton?s,
when a messenger brought him tidings that Mrs.
Scott had been delivered of a daughter, he turned
laughingly to the company, and said, ?You see,
gentlemen, I must be under the necessity of
doubling my stakes, in order to make a fortune for
this little girl.? He accordingly played rather
deeper than usual, in consequence of which, after
a fiw hours? play, he found himself a loser by
A8,ooo. This gave occasion for some of the
company to rally him on his ?? daughter?s fortune,?
but the general had an equanimity of temper
that nothing could ruffle, and a judgment in play
superior to most gamesters. He replied that he
had still a perfect dependence on the luck of the
night, and to make his words good he played steadily
on, and about seven in the morning, besides
clearing his .&8,000, he brought home A15,ooo.
His eldest daughter, Henrietta, became Duchess
of Portland.
Drummond Place was named after the eminent
George Drummond, son of the Laird of Newton, a
branch of the Perth family, who was no less than
six times Lord Provost of the city, and who died
in 1776, in the eightieth year of his age.
The two most remarkable denizens of this
quarter were Charles Kirkpatrick Sharpe of Hoddam
(previously of 93, Princes Street) and Lord
Robertson.
Among the attractions of Edinburgh during the
bygone half of the present century, and accessible
only to a privileged few, were the residence
and society of the former gentleman. Born of an
ancient Scottish family, and connected in many
ways with the historical associations of his country,
by his reputation as a literary man no less than
by his high Cavalier and Jacobite tenets, Charles
Kirkpatrick Sharpe was long looked up to as one
of the chief authorities on all questions connected
with Scottish antiquities.
No. 93, Princes Street, the house of Mrs. Sharpe
of Hoddam, was the home of her son till the time
of her death, and there he was visited by Scotc
Thomas Thomson, and those of the next genera ... Street.] GENERAL SCOTT. 19= Gray was ordained his successor to that charge in 1773, but he resigned it ten ...

Book 3  p. 191
(Score 0.18)

138 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Restalrig.
latter married a lady whom Burke calls ?Miss
Alston, of America,? and died without any family,
and now the line of the Nisbets of Dean and
Craigantinnie has passed completely away ; but
long prior to the action recorded the branch at
Restalrig had lost the lands there and the old
house we have described.
In the beginning of the last century the proprietor
of Craigantinnie was Nisbet of Dirleton, of
the male line of that Sir John Nisbet of Dirleton
who was King?s Advocate after the Restoration.
It was subsequently the property of the Scott-
Nisbets, and on the death of John Scott-Nisbet,
Esq., in 1765, an action was raised against his
heirs and trustees, by Young of Newhall, regarding
the sale of the estate, which was ultimately carried
to the House of Peers.
Craigantinnie was next acquired by purchase by
William Miller, a wealthy seedsman, whose house
and garden, at the foot of the south back of the
Canongate, were removed only in 1859, when the
site was added to the Royal Park. When Prince
Charles?s army came to Edinburgh in 1745, he
obtained 500 shovels from William Miller for
trenching purposes. His father, also Wdliam Miller,
who died in 1757, in his eightieth year, had previously
acquired a considerable portion of what is
now called the Craigantinnie estate, or the lands
of Philliside, and others near the sea. He left
.&20,000 in cash, by which Craigantinnie proper
was acquired by his son M7illiam. He was well
known as a citizen of Edinburgh by the name of
?? the auld Quaker,? as he belonged to the Society
of Friends, and was ever foremost in all works of
chanty and benevolence.
About 1780, when in his ninetieth year, he
married an Englishwoman who was then in her
fiftieth year, with whom he went to London and
Pans, where she was delivered of a child, the late
William Miller, M.P. for Newcastle-under-Lyne ;
and thereby hangs a story, which made some stir
at the time of his death, as he was currently averred
to be a changeling-even to be a woman, a suggestion
which his thin figure, weak voice, absence of
all beard, aad some peculiarity of habit, seemed to
corroborate. Be that as it may, none were permitted-
save those interested in him-to touch his
body, which, by his will, lies now buried in a
grave, dug to the great depth of foity feet, on the
north side of the Portobello Road, and on the
lands of Craigantinnie, with a classic tomb of considerable
height and beauty erected over it.
At his death, without heirs, the estate passed into
the hands of strangers.
His gigantic tomb, however, with its beautiful
sculptures, forms one of the most remarkable
features in this locality. Regarding it, a writer in,
Tem~jZe Bar for 1881, says :-?? Not one traveller
in a thousand has ever seen certain sculptures
known as the ? Craigantinnie Marbles.? They arel
out of town, on the road to Portobello, beyond the
Piershill cavalry barracks, and decorate a mausoleum
which is to be found by turning off the high
road, and so past a cottage into a field, green and?
moist with its tall neglected grass. There is something
piquant in coming upon Art among humble?
natural things in the country or a thinly peopled
suburb.? After referring to Giotto?s work outside
Padua, he continues : ? It is obvious there is no
comparison intended between that early work of
Italy, so rich in sincere thought and beautiful expression,
and the agreeable, gracious and even
manly hbour, of the artist who wrought for modern
Scotland, the ?Song of Miriam? in this Craigantinnie
field. Still there is a certain freshness of pleasure
in the situation of the work, nor does examination
of the art displayed lead to prompt disappointment.?
Standing solitary and alone, westward of Restalrig
Church, towers the tall villa of Marionville,
which, though now rather gloomy in aspect, was
prior to 1790 the scene often of the gayest private
theatricals perhaps in Britain, and before its then
possessor won himself the unenviable name of ?? the
Fortunate Duellist,? and became an outcast and
one of the most miserable of men, The house is
enclosed by shrubbery of no great extent, and by
high walls. ?Whether it be,? says Chambers,
? that the place has become dismal in consequence
of the rise of a noxious fen in its neighbourhood,
or that the tale connected with it acts upon the
imagination, I cannot decide ; but unquestionably
there is about the house an air of depession and
melancholy such as could scarcely fail to strike the
most unobservant passenger.?
Elsewhere he mentions that this villa was built,
by the Misses Ramsay, whose shop was on the
east side of the old Lj-on Close, on the north side
of the High Street, opposite the upper end of the
City Guardhouse. There they made a fortune,
spent on building Marionville, which was locally
named hjpeet Ha? in derision of their profession.
Here, for some time before 1790, lived Captain
James Macrae, formerly of the 3rd Regiment of
Horse (when commanded by Lieutenant-Colonel
Sir Ralph Abercrombie), and now known as the
6th Dragoon Guards, or Carabineers ; and his story
is a very remarkable one, from the well-known
names that must be introduced in it. He was
Macrae of Holemains, whom Fowler, in his Ren-, ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Restalrig. latter married a lady whom Burke calls ?Miss Alston, of America,? and died ...

Book 5  p. 138
(Score 0.18)

High Street.] MARY KINGS CLOSE 227
net tells us that he was a man of such unflagging
zeal that he barely allowed himself three hours? sleep
out of the twenty-four. On the renewal of the
Covenant, in 1638, he and the celebrated Alexander
Henderson were appointed to revise and
adapt that national document to the circumstances
of the times; and at the memorable assembly
which met at Glasgow Johnston was unanimously
elected clerk, and was constituted Procurator for
the Church. ? He took a prominent share in resisting
the unjust interference of Charles I: in Scottish
affairs, and in 1638, on the royal edict being proclaimed
from the Cross of Edinburgh, which set at
defiance the popular opposition to Episcopacy, he
boldly appeared on the scaffold erected near it,
and read aloud the famous protest drawn up in
the name of the Tables, while the mob compelled
the six royal heralds to remain while this counterdefiance
in the name of Scotland was being read
In 1641, when Charles visited Edinburgh for the
second time, Johnston was knighted and made a
Lord of Session, and after sitting in the Parliament
of Scotland in 1644, he attended, as one of the
Commissioners, the assembly of divines at Westminster.
In the following year he was Lord Advocate;
and in 1649 he performed one of his last
official duties, proclaiming Charles 11. King of
Scotland, on the 5th of February, 1650.
After the battle of Dunbar he was weak enough
to accept ofice under the Protectorate, as Clerk
Registrar; and after the death of Cromwell he
acted as one of the Committee of Public Safety,
when the feeble and timid Richard Cromwell withdrew
from public life ; and this last portion of his
career, together with the mode in which he had
prosecuted and persecuted the fallen Cavaliers, and
refused to concur in the treaty of Breda, sealed
his doom when the Restoration came. He was
forfeited in exile and condemned to death on the
15th of May, 1651.
An emissary of the Scottish ministry discovered
his retreat at Rouen, and, with the aid of the
French authorities, he was sent to the Tower, and
from thence to Edinburgh, where, with every mark
of indignity, he was publicly executed on the same
spot where, five-and-twenty years before, he had
defied the proclamation of Charles I. This was
on the n2nd of July, 1663, and he died with the
utmost constancy and Christian fortitude. And
now the busy establishment of one of the most
enterprising of Scottish publishing firms occupies
the site of the old mansion, in which he must many
a time have entertained such men as Alexander
Henderson, the Marquises Argyle, Rothes, and Callander,
the gallant Sir Alexander Leslie, the somewhat
double-dealing Monk, perhaps Cromwell too.
CHAPTER XXVI.
HIGH STREET (continued).
Mary King?s Close-Who was Mary ?-Scourged by the Plague of 1645-Its Mystery-Drummond?s Epigram-Prof. Sinclair?s ?I Satan?s Invisible
World Discovered?--Mr. and Mrs. Coltheart?s Ghostly Visitors-The Clox finally abandoned to Goblins-Craig?s Close-Andro Hart,
Bookseller and Printer-Andro?s Spear-A Menagerie in Craig?s CIosc-The Isle of Man Arms--The Cape Club-Its Mysteries and O f f i c a ~
--Installation of a Knight-ProvinciaI Cape Clubs-The Poker Club-How it Originated-Members-Office-bearers-Old Stamp Office
Court-Fortune?s Tavern-The beautiful Countess of EgIinton-Her Patronage of Lettters-Her Family-Interview with Dr. Johnson-
Murderous Riot in the Close-Removal of the Stamp Office.
MARY KING?S Close was long a place of terror to
the superstitious, as one of the last retreats of the
desolating plague of 1645. ?Who Mary King
was is now unknown, but though the alley is roofless
and ruined,? says one, writing of it in 1845,
?with weeds, wall-flowers, grass, and even little
trees, flourishing luxuriantly among the falling
walls, her name may still be seen painted on the
street corner.?
For some generations after the plague-in which
most of itsinhabitants perished-its houses remained
closed, and gradually it became a place of mystery
and horror, the abode of a thousand spectres and
nameless terrors, for superstition peopled it with
inhabitants, whom all feared and none cared to
succeed. ?Those who had been foolhardy enough
to peep through the windows after nightfall saw
the spectres of the long-departed denizens engaged
in their wonted occupations ; headless forms danced
through the moonlit apartments ; on one occasion
a godly minister and two pious elders were scared
out of their senses by the terrible vision of a raw
head and blood-dripping arm, which protruded
from the wall in this terrible street, and flourished
a sword above their heads ; and many other terrors,
which are duly chronicled in ?Satan?s Invisible
World;?? yet it was down this place that the wild
young Master of Gray dragged the fair Mistress
Carnegie, whom, sword in hand, he had abducted
from her father?s house at the head of twelve men-at ... Street.] MARY KINGS CLOSE 227 net tells us that he was a man of such unflagging zeal that he barely allowed ...

Book 2  p. 227
(Score 0.18)

Merchiston.] THE NAPIERS OF MERCHISTON. 35
likeness of the founder, painted by Sir James
Foulis of Woodhall, Bart.
In 1870 the original use to which the foundation
was put underwent a change, and the hospital
became a great public school for boys and girls.
At the western extremity of what was the Burghmuir,
near where lately was an old village of that
name (at the point where the Colinton road diverges
from that which leads to Biggar), there stands, yet
unchanged amid all its new surroundings, the
ancient castle of Merchiston, the whilom seat of a
race second to none in Scotland for rank and talent
-the Napiers, now Lords Napier and Ettrick. It
is a lofty square tower, surmounted by corbelled
battlements, a ape-house, and tall chimneys. It
was once surrounded by a moat, and had a secret
avenue or means of escape into the fields to the
north. As to when it was built, or by whom, no
record now remains.
In the missing rolls of Robert I., the lands of
Merchiston and Dalry, in the county of Edinburgh,
belonged in his reign to William Bisset, and under
David II., the former belonged to William de
Sancto Claro, on the resignation of Williani Bisset,
according to Robertson?s ?Index,? in which we find
a royal charter, ?datum est apud Dundee,? 14th
August, 1367, to John of Cragyof the lands of
Merchiston, which John of Creigchton had resigned.
So the estate would seem to have had several
proprietors before it came into the hands of
Alexander Napier, who was Provost of Edinburgh
in 1438, and by this acquisition Merchiston became
the chief title of his family.
His son, Sir Alexander, who was Comptroller of
Scotland under James 11. in 1450, and went on a
pilgrimage to St. Thomas of Canterbury in the
following year-for which he had safe-conduct from
the King of England-was Provost of Edinburgh
between 1469 and 1471- He was ambassador to
the Court of the Golden Fleece in 1473, and was
no stranger to Charles the Bold ; the tenor of his
instructions to whom from James II., shows that he
visited Bruges a d the court of Burgundy before
that year, in 1468, when he was present at the
Tournament of the Golden Fleece, and selected a
suit of brilliant armour for his sovereign.
Sir Alexander, fifth of Merchiston, fell at Flodden
with James IV.
John Napier of Merchiston was Provost 17th
of May, 1484, and his son and successor, Sir Archibald,
founded a chaplaincy and altar in honour of St.
Salvator in St. Giles?s Church in November, 1493.
His grandson, Sir Archibald Napier, who married
a daughter of Duncan Campbell of Glenorchy, was
slain at the battle of Pinkie, in 1547.
Sir Alexander Napier of Merchiston and Edinbellie,
who was latterly Master of the Mint to
James VI., was father of John Napier the
celebrated inventor of the Logarithms, who was
born in Merchiston Castle in 1550, fgur years after
the birth of Tycho Brahe, and fourteen before that
of Galileo, at a time when the Reformation in
Scotland was just commencing, as in the preceding?
year John Knox had been released from the
French galleys, and was then enjoying royal
patronage in England. His mother was Janet,
only daughter of Sir Francis Bothwell, and sister
of Adam, Bishop of Orkney. At the time of his
birth his father was only sixteen years of age. He
was educated at St. Salvator?s College, St. Andrews,
where he matriculated 1562-3, and afterwards spent
several years in France, the Low Countries, and
Italy; he applied himself closely to the study of
mathematics, and it is conjectured that he gained
a taste for that branch of learning during his residence
abroad, especially in Itily, where at that
time were many mathematicians of high repute.
While abroad young Napier escaped some perils
that existed at home. In 150s a dreadful pest
broke out in Edinburgh, and his father and family
were exposed to the contagion, ? by the vicinity,?
says Mark Napier, ?? of his mansion to the Burghmuir,
upon which waste the infected were driven
out to grovel and die, under the very walls of
Merchiston.?
In his earlier years his studies took a deep theological
turn, the fruits of which appeared in his
? Plain Discovery of the Revelation of St John,?
which he published at Edinburgh in 1593, and
dedicated to James VI. But some twenty years
before that time his studies must have been sorely
interrupted, as his old ancestral fortalice lay in the
very centre of the field of strife, when Kirkaldy
held out the castle for Queen Mary, and the savage
Douglas wars surged wildly round its walls.
On the 2nd April, 1572, John Napier, then in his
twenty-second year, was betrothed to Elizabeth,
daughter of Sir James Stirling of Keir ; but as he
had incurred the displeasure of the queen?s party
by taking no active share in her interests, on the
18th of July he was arrested by the Laid of Minto,
and sent a prisoner to the Castle of Edinburgh,
then governed by Sir TVilliam Kirkaldy, who in the
preceding year had bombarded Merchiston with
his iron guns because certain soldiers of the king?s
party occupied it, and cut off provisions coming
north for the use of his garrison. The solitary
tower formed the key of the southern approach
to the city ; thus, whoever triumphed, it became the
object of the opponent?s enmity. ... THE NAPIERS OF MERCHISTON. 35 likeness of the founder, painted by Sir James Foulis of Woodhall, ...

Book 5  p. 35
(Score 0.18)

Rase Street.] HUG0 ARNOT. ?59
announced that Bailie Creech, of literary celebrity,
was about to lead Miss Burns of Rose Street ?? to
the hymeneal altar.? In hiswrath, Creech threatened
an action against the editor, whose contradiction
made matters worse :-? In a former number we
noticed the intended marriage between Bailie
Creech of Edinburgh and the beautiful Miss Bums
of the same place. We have now the authority of
that gentleman to say that the proposed marriage
is not to take place, matters having been otherwise
arranged, to the mutual satisfaction of both parties
and their respective friends.? After a few years of
unenviable notoriety, says the editor of *? Kay,?
Miss Burns fell into a decline, and died in 1792 at
Roslin, where a stone in the churchyard records
her name and the date of her demise.
In the same year of this squabble we find a
ball advertised in connection with the now unfashionable
locality of Rose Street, thus :-? Mr.
Sealey (teacher of dancing) begs to acquaint his
friends and the public that his ball is iixed for the
20th of March next, and that in order to accommodate
his scholars in the New Town, he proposes
opening a school in Rose Street, Young?s Land,
opposite to the Physicians? Hall, the 24th of that
month, where he intends to teach on Tuesdays
and Fridays from nine in the morning, and the
remainder of the week at his school in Foulis?s
Close, as formerly.? In 1796 we find among
its residents Sir Samuel Egerton Leigh, Knight, of
South Carolina, whose lady ? was safely delivered
of a son on Wednesday morning (16th March) at
her lodgings in Rose Street.?
Sir Samuel was the second son of Sir Egerton
high, His Majesty?s AttorneyGenerd for South
Carolina, and he died at Edinburgh in the ensuing
January. He had a sister, married to the youngest
brother of Sir Thomas Burnet of Leya
This son, born at Edinburgh in 1796, succeeded
in ISIS to the baronetcy, on the death of his uncle,
Sir Egerton, who married Theodosia (relict of
Captain John Donellan), daughter of Sir Edward,
and sister of Sir Theodosius Edward Boughton,
for the murder of whom by poison the captain was
executed at Warwick in 1781,
It was in Dr. John Brown?s Chapel in Rose
Street, that Robert Pollok, the well-known author
of ?The Course of Time,? who was a licentiate of
the United Secession Church, preached his only
sermon, and soon after ordination he was attacked
by that pulmonary disease of which he died in
1827.
In 1810 No. 82 was ?Mrs. Bruce?s fashionable
boarding-school,? and many persons of the greatest
respectability occupied the common stairs, particularly
to the westward ; and in Thistle Street were
many residents of very good position.
Thus No. z was the house, in 1784, of Sir
John Gordon, Bart. ; and Sir Alexander Don, Bart.,
of Newton Don, lived in No. 4, when Lady Don
Dowager resided in No. 53, George Street (he had
been one of the d h u s in France who were seized
when passing through it during the short peace of
1802), and a Mrs. Colonel Ross occupied No. 17,
Under the name of Hill Street this thoroughfare
is continued westward, between Fredenck Street
and Castle Street, all the houses being ?selfcontained.?
The Right Hon. Charles Hope of
Granton, Lord Justice Clerk, had his chambers in
No. 6 (now writers? offices) in ~808 ; Buchanan of
Auchintorlie lived in No. I I, and Clark of Comrie
in No. 9, now also legal offices. In one of the houses
here resided, and was married in 1822, as mentioned
in Bkrckwoad?s Magazine for that year, Charles
Edward Stuart, styled latterly Count d?Albany
(whose son, the Carlist colonel, married a daughter
of the Earl of Errol), and who, with his brother, John
Sobieski Stuarf attracted much attention in the city
and Scotland generally, between that period and
1847, and of whom various accounts have been
given. They gave themselves out as the grandsons
of Charles Edward Stuart, but were said to be
the sons of a Captain Thomas Allan, R.N., and
grandsons of Admiral John Carter Allan, who died
in 1800.
Seven broad and handsome streets, running south
and north, intersect the great parallelogram of the
New Town. It was at the corner of one of those
streets-but which we are not told-that Robert
Burns first saw, in 1787, Mrs. Graham, so celebrated
for her wonderful beauty, and whose husband
commanded in the Castle of Stirling.
From the summit of the ridge, where each of
these streets cross George Street, are commanded
superb views : on one side the old town, and on
the other the northern New Town, and away to the
hills of Fife and Kinross.
According to ? Peter Williamson?s Directory,?
Hugo Arnot, the historian, had taken up his abode
in the Meuse Lane of South St. Andrew Street
in 1784. His own name was Pollock, but he
changed it to Arnot on succeeding to the estate of
Balcormo, in Fifeshire. In his fifteenth year hC
became afflicted with asthma, and through life was
reduced to the attenuation of a skeleton. Admitted
an advocate in 1772, he ever took a deep interest
in all local matters, and published various essays
thereon, and his exertions in promoting the
improvements then in progress in Edinburgh were
which is now the New Town dispensary. c ... Street.] HUG0 ARNOT. ?59 announced that Bailie Creech, of literary celebrity, was about to lead Miss Burns ...

Book 3  p. 159
(Score 0.18)

Bristo Streei.1 THE DARIEN SCHEME. 323
C H A P T E R XXXVIIP.
BRISTO AND THE POTTERROW.
Bristo Street-The Darien House-The Earl of Roaebery-Old Charity Workhouse-A Strike in 176441d GeorgeInn-U. P. Church-
Dr. Peddie -Sir Walter Scott?s First School-The General?s Entry and the Dalrymplcs of Stair-Burns and Clarinda-Crichton Street-
Alison Rutherford of Famielee-The Eastern Portsburgh-The Dukeof Lennox Men-The Plague-The Covenanters? GunFoundry-
A Witch-A Contumacious Barber-Tailors? Hall-Story of Jean Brown-Duke of Douglas?s How-Thomas Cpmpbcll the Poet
-Earl of Murray?s House-Charles Street and Field.
THOSE who see Forrest Road now-a broad and
handsome thoroughfare-can form no conception of
the features of its locality for more than a hundred
years before 1850.
A great archway, in a modern addition to the
city wall, led from the Bristo Port by a winding
pathway, a hundred yards long, and bordered by
trees to a wicket, or klinket.gate, in the city wall,
opposite the centre walk of the meadows. On
its west side rose the enormous mass of the dd
Charity Workhouse, with a strong box at its gate,
inscribed, 44 He that giveth unto the poor lendeth
unto the Lord,? and having an orifice, wherein the
charitable passer might drop a coin. On its
east side were the ancient offices of the Darien
Company, the Correction House, and Bedlam, to
which another pathway diverged south-eastward
from before the Workhouse gate. On the east
and south rose the mass of the embattled city
wall, black with smoke and years, and tufted with
grass.
A group of mansions of vast antiquity, their dark
chimneys studded by glistening oyster-shells, were
on the west side of the Bristo Port, the name ofwhich
is still retained by two or three houses of modern
construction.
In 1647 the whole of the area referred to here
was an open grass park of oblong form, about 250
paces long by 200 broad, according to Gordon?s map.
Till lately the west side of Bristo Street, from the
Port to Teviot Row, was entirely composed of the
dead angle of the city wall, Immediately within
this, facing the south, stood the office of the Darien
Company, a two-storeyed and substantial edifice,
built of polished freestone, with the high-pitched
roof that came into fashion with William of Orange ;
but till the last it was a melancholy and desolate
memorial of that unfortunate enterprise.? A row
of eight arched niches were along its upper storey,
but never held busts in them, though intended for
such.
This edifice was built in 1698, as an ornamental
tablet above the main entrance bore, together with
a sundial, and within, a broad flight of handsome
stairs, guarded by balustrades, led to the first floor.
Here, then, was transacted the business of that
grand national project, the Darien Expedition,
formed for establishing a settlement on the isthmus
of that name, and fitting out?ships to trade with
Africa and the Indies. By this the highest an.
ticipations were raised; the then large sum of
~400,000 was subscribed, and an armed expedition
sailed from Scotland for the new settlement.
Apart from people of all ranks who were subscribers
to this scheme, we may mention that the
Faculty of Advocates, the Merchant Company of
Edinburgh, with Sir Robert Christie the Provost,
the Cities of Edinburgh and Perth, joined it as
communities ; but meanwhile, the furious denunciations
of the English Parliament proved a
thorough discouragement to the project in London,
and nearly the whole of the stockholders there
silently withdrew from it. Under the same influence
the merchants of Hamburg were induced
to withdraw their support and co-operation, leaving
Scotland to work out her own plans by, herself.
She proceeded to do so with a courage to be
admired.? (? Dom. Ann.,? Vol. 111.) The house
described was built, and schemes for trade With
Greenland, Archangel, and the Gold Coast, were
considered, and, under the glow of a new and
great national object, all the old feuds and antipathies
of Covenanter and Cavalier were forgotten,
till pressure from without crushed the whole enterprise.
When intelligence reached Edinburgh that the
company had planted the Scottish flag on Darien,
formed Fort St. Andred and successfully repulsed
the Spaniards, who were urged to the attack by
William of Orange, thanksgivings were offered up
in St. Giles?s and all the other churches; the city
was illuminated ; but the mob further testified their
joy by seizing all the ports, setting fire to the
Tolbooth door, and liberating all the prisoners
incarcerated there for issuing seditious prints against
the king and the English Court
No less vehement was the fury of the populace
on the destruction of this national enterprise, than
their joy at its first brief success. The Tolbooth
was again forced, the windows of all adherents of
King Williiam were broken, and such rage was
exhibited, that his commissioner and the officers ... Streei.1 THE DARIEN SCHEME. 323 C H A P T E R XXXVIIP. BRISTO AND THE POTTERROW. Bristo Street-The Darien ...

Book 4  p. 323
(Score 0.18)

I91 OLD AKD NEW EDINBURGH. [IFeriot Row.
lady weak poems, which were noticed by Lockhart
in the Quarterly Rmim, and to the paper he a p
pended in one copy, which was sent to the senator,
the following distich, by way of epitaph :-
U Here lies the peerless paper lord, Lord Peter,
Who broke the laws of God and man and metre.?
The joke chiefly lay in Robertson being led to suppose
that the lines were in the entire edition, much
to his annoyance and indignation ; but Lockhart
penned elsewhere the following good wishes concerning
him :-
? Oh! Petrus, Pedro, Peter, which you will,
Long, long thy radiant destiny fulfil.
Bright be thy wit, and bright the golden ore
Paid down in fees for thy deep legal lore ;
Bright be that claret, brisk be thy champagne,
Thy whisky-punch, a vast exhaustless main,
With thee disporting on its joyous shore,
Of that glad spirit quaffing ever more ;
Keen be thy stomach, potent thy digestion,
And long thy lectures on ? the general question ;?
While young and old swell out the general strain,
We ne?er shall look upon his like again.?
Lockhart wrote many rhyming epitaphs upon him,
and is reported to have written, ? Peter Robertson
is ?a man,? to use his own favourite quotation,
?cast in Nature?s amplest mould.? He is admitted
to be the greatest corporation lawyer at, the
Scotch bar, and he is a vast poet as well as a great
lawyer.?
Lord Robertson, who lived in No. 32 Drummond
Place, died in 1855, in his sixty-second
year.
No. 38 was for years the abode of Adam Black,
more than once referred to elsewhere as publisher,
M.P., and Lord Provost of the city, who died on
the 24th January, 1874.
Forming a species of terrace facing the Queen
Street Gardens from the north, are Abercrombie
Place and Heriot Row-the first named from the
hero of the Egyptian campaign, and the latter from
the founder of the famous hospital on ground belonging
to which it is erected. The western portion
of the Row, after it was built, was long disfigured
by the obstinacy of Lord Wemyss, who declined to
remove a high stone wall which enclosed on the
north and east the garden that lay before his house
in Queen Street.
Sir John Connel, Advocate and Procurator for
the Church, author of a ?Treatise on Parochial
Law and Tithes,? apd who figures among Kay?s
Portraits as one of the ?Twelve Advocates,?
James Pillans, LL.D., Professor of Humanity in
the University 1820-63, and Sir James Riddel,
Bart., of Ardnaniurchan and Sunart, lived respectively
in Nos. 16, 22, and 30, Abercrombie Place;
while on the west side of Nelson Street, which
opens off it to the north, resided, after 1829, Miss
Susan Edmondston Ferrier, authoress of ? Marriage,?
? Inheritance,? and ? Destiny,? one who
may with truth be called the Zast of the literary
galaxy which adorned Edinburgh when Scott wrote,
Jeffrey criticised, and the wit of Wilson flowed into
the Nodes. She was the friend and confidant of
Scott. She survived him more than twenty years,
as she died in 1854.
In the house numbered as 6 Heriot Row,
Henry Mackenzie, the author. of the 6? Man of
Feeling,? spent the last years of his long life, surviving
all the intimates of his youth, including
Robertson, Hume, Fergusson, and &dam Smith ;
and there he died. on the 14th of January, in the
year 1831, after having been confined to his room
for a considerable period by the general decay
attending old age. He was then in his eightysixth
year.
No. 44 in the same Row is remarkable as
having been for some years the residence of the
Rev. Archibald Alison, ?to whom we have already
referred; in the same house with him lived his
sons, Professor Alison, and Archibald the future
historian of Europe and first baronet of the name.
The latter was born in the year 1792, at the
parsonage house of Kenley,in Shropshire. The Rev.
Archibald Alison (who was a cadet of the Alisons,
of New Hall, in Angus) before becoming incunibent
of the Cowgate Chapel, in 1800, had been
a prebendary of Sarum, rector of Roddington,
and vicar of High Ercal; and his wife was
Dorothea Gregory, grand-daughter of the fourteenth
Lord Forbes of that ilk, a lady whose family
for two centuries has been eminent in mathematics
and the exact sciences.
His sermons were published by Constable in
1817, twenty-seven years subsequent to his work
on ?Taste,? and, according to the Literary
Magazine for that year and other critical periodicals,
since the first publication of Blair?s discourses
there were no sermons so popular in Scotland as
those of Mr. Alison. He enforced virtue and
piety upon the sanction of the Gospels, without
ehtering into those peculiar grounds and conditions
of salvation which constitute the sectarian theories
of religion, regarding his hearers or readers as
having already arrived at that state of knowledge
and understanding when, ? having the principles
of the doctrine of Christ, they should go on unto
perfection.?
Great King Street, a broad and stately thoroughfare
that extends from Drummond Place to the ... OLD AKD NEW EDINBURGH. [IFeriot Row. lady weak poems, which were noticed by Lockhart in the Quarterly Rmim, ...

Book 4  p. 194
(Score 0.18)

[The Cowgate. 262 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH.
Chapel, and quhat expensis he makis thaeron
sal be allowit to him in his accomptis.?
In one window, a Saint Bartholomew has
strangely escaped the destructive mobs of 1559 and
1688; but its tints are far inferior to the deep
crimson and gold of the royal arms. It is remarkable
that one other feature has also escaped destruction,
the tomb of Janet Rhynd, with the following
icscription in ancient Gothic characters :-
peir I Q ~ ant bonorabfl booman, 3anet P(pn8, pe
SS~ous of umqttbiI fliccI flakquben, Burgess
of c?DJ. founBer of pis place, am Betessit ge
iiii b q of Becemr., PO Bno Jl!lc.B?bii.
Impaled in one shield, the arms of the husband
and wife are in the centre of the sculptured stone,
which is now level with a platform at the east end
of the chapel for the accommodation of the officials
of the Corporation.
The hospital was founded in 1504--nine years
before Flodden ; but the charter by which its permanent
establishment is secured by Janet Rhynd, who
gave personally ;6z,ooo Scots, is supposed to have
been dated about 1545 in the reign of Mary, and
as one of the last deeds executed for a pious purpose,
is now remarkable in its tenor.
The chapel is decorated at $s east end with the
royal arms, those of the city, and of the twentytwo
corporations forming the ancient and honourable
Incorporation of Hammermen, ? the guardians
of the sacred banner, the Blue Blanket, on the unfurling
of which every liege burgher of the kingdom
is bound to answer the summons.?
On the walls are numerous tablets recording the
names and gifts of benefactors. The oldest of
these is supposed to be a daughter of the founders, ?? Isabel Macquhane, spouse to Gilbert Lauder,
merchant burgess of Edinburgh, who bigged ye
crosshouse, and mortified jE50 out of the Caussland,
anno 1555.? ?John Spens, burgess of
Edinburgh,? tells another tablet, ? bestowed IOO
lods of Wesland lime for building the stipel of this
chapell, anno I 6 2 I.?
Eleven years after the quaint steeple was built
a bell was hung in it, which bears round it, in large
Roman characters,-
SOLI DEO GLORIA MICHAEL BURGERHUVS ME FECIT.
ANNO 1632.
And underneath, in letters about half the size, is
the legend,
God bCis the Hammermen of MagdaZen Chapel.
The bell is still rung, though not for the objects
detailed in the will of Janet Rhynd, and in 1641
it was used to summon the congregation of the
Greyfriars, who paid for its use A40 Scots yearly.
When the distinguished Reformer John Craig
returned to Scotland at the Reformation-escaping
from Rome on the very day before he was to perish
in a great auto-da-fe-after an absence of twentyfour
years, he preached for some time in this chapel
in the Latin language, to a select congregation of
the learned, being unable from long disuse to hold
forth in the Scottish tongue. He was subsequently
appointed colleague to John Knox, and
is distinguished in history for having defied even
Bothwell, by refusing to publish the banns of his
marriage with Mary, and also for having written the
National Covenant of 1589.
The General Assembly of 1578 .met in the
Magdalene Chapel, and on the 30th of June, 1685,
the headless body of the Earl of Argyle-whose
skull was placed on the north gable of the Tolbooth
-was deposited here, prior to its conveyance to
Kilmun-the tomb of the Campbells-in Argyleshire.
Among the sculpture above the door of the chapel
there remains an excellent figure of an Edinburgh
hammerman of 1555 inthe costume of the period,
in doublet and trunk-breeches, with peaked beard
and moustache, with a hammer in his right hand.
The arms of the corporation are azure, a hammer
proper, ensigned with the imperial crown.
St. Eligius, Bishop and Confessor, was the
patron of the Edinburgh hammermen; but, as
the Scots always followed the French mode and
terms, he has always been known as St. Eloi,
whose altar in St. Giles?s Church was the property
of the corporation. It was the most eastern of the
chapels in that ancient fane. The keystone of
this chapel alone is preserved. It is a richlysculptured
boss formed of four dragons with distended
wings, each different in design. The
centre is formed by a large flower, in which is
inserted the iron hook, whereat hung the votive
lamp over the altar of St. Eloi, who is referred to in
all the historical documents of the corporation.*
According to the Bollandists, he had been a goldsmith
early in life, and became master of the Mint
to Clotaire II., on some of whose gold coins his
name appears. He died Bishop of Noyon about
659, and Kincaid in his history (1794) says that
in the Hammermen?s Hall a relic of him is shown,
?? called St. Eloi?s gown.? This was probably some
garment which had clothed a statue.
The chapel proper has latterly become the property
of the Protestant Institute of Scotland, whose
chambers are close by at I 7, George IV. Bridge.
It is impossible to quit this locality without some
An engraving of this keystone will be found on p 147,
Vol. I. ... Cowgate. 262 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. Chapel, and quhat expensis he makis thaeron sal be allowit to him in his ...

Book 4  p. 262
(Score 0.18)

82 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [The Water of Leith.
and verse, the Ireland Scholarship, and a studentship
at Christ Church; but in the midst of his
youth and fame he was suddenly taken away, in a
manner that was a source of deep regret in Scotland
and England alike. He perished by drowning,
when a boat was upset on the Isis, on the 3rd of
March, 1862, when he was in his twenty-sixth
year.
?Oxford has lost one of her most promising
students,? said the London Revim, with reference
to this calamity. ? A. career of such almost uniform
brilliance has seldom been equalled, and never
been surpassed, by any one among the many distinguished
young men who have gone from Scotland
to an English university. Indeed, we only do
him justice when we say that Mr. Luke was one of
?the most remarkable students that ever went to
Oxford. Many leading boys have gone up from
the great English public schools, where they have
been trained with untiring attention, under the careful
eye of the ablest and most experienced teachers
of the day, and they have more than fully rewarded
their masters for the care bestowed upon them ;
but no one has shone out so conspicuously above
his compeers as Mr. Luke has done among those
who have been educated in the comparative obscurity
of a Scotch school and university, where,
owing to the system pursued at these seminaries, a
boy is left almost entirely to himself, and to his own
spontaneous exertions.? This young man, whose
brief career shed such honour on his family and
his native place, was as distinguished for kindness
of heart, probity, and every moral worth, as for
his swift classical attainments.
There are several painters of note now living,
famous alike in the annals of Scottish and British
art, who have made Stockbridge their home and the
scene of their labours. There some of them have
spent their youth, and received the rudiments of
their education, whose names we can but give
-viz., Norman Macbeth, RSA ; Robert Henderson,
R.S.A. ; James Faed, the painter and engraver ;
Thomas Faed, R.A. ; Robert Macbeth ; Alexander
Leggett ; John Proctor, the cartoonist ; and W. L.
Richardson, AAA.
Comely Bank estate, which lies north of Stockbridge,
was the property of Sir William Fettes, Bart.,
Lord Provost of the city, of whom we have given
a memoir, with an accpnt of his trust disposition,
in the chapter on Charlotte Square. On the gentle
slope of Comely Bank, the Fettes College forms a
conspicuous object from almost every point, but
chiefly from the Dean Bridge Road. This grand
edifice was planned and executed by David Bryce,
R.S.A., at the cost of about ~150,000, and is renarkable
for the almost endless diversity and
slegance of its details. The greatest wealth of
;hese is to be found in the centre, a prevailing idea
:worked out into numerous forms, in corbels, gur-
;oils, and mouldings) being that of griffns con-
Lending. Its towers are massive, lofty, and ornate.
;he whole style of architecture being the most florid
:xample of the old Scottish Baronial. The chapel,
which occupies the centre of the structure, is a
most beautiful building, with its due accompaniment
of pinnacles and buttresses, ornamented with
statues on corbels or in canopied niches. -4
tinely-carved stone rail encloses the terrace, which
is surrounded by spacious shrubberies
The building was founded in June, 1863, and
formally opened in October, 1870. The number
of boys to be admitted on the foundation, and
maintained and educated in the college at the expense
of the endowment, was not at any time to
exceed fifty-a nuniber absurdly small to occupy
so vast a palace, for such it is. For the accommodation
of non-foundationers, spacious boardinghouses
have been erected in the grounds, and in
connection with the college, under the superintendence
of the teachers.
Craigleith adjoins Comely Bank on the westward,
and was an old estate, in which Momson the
Younger, of Prestongrange, was entailed 1731.
Here we find the great quarry, from which the
greatest portion of the Kew Town has been built,
covering an area of twelve acres, which is more
than zoo feet deep, and has been worked for
many years When first opened, it was rented for
about 6 5 0 per annum; but between 1820 and
1826 it yielded about A5,51o per annum.
Here, in 1823, there was excavated a stone of
such dimensions and weight, says the Edin6uTh
WeekCyJoumaZ for November of that year, as to
be without parallel in ancient or modern times.
In length it was upwards of 136 feet, averaging
twenty feet in breadth, and its computed weight was
15,000 tons. It was a longitudinal cut from a
stratum of very fine lime rock. The greater part
of it was conveyed to the Calton Hill, where it
now forms the architrave of the National Monument,
and the rest was sent by sea to Buckingham
Palace.
Three large fossil coniferous trees have been
found here, deep down in the heart of the freestone
rock. One of these, discovered about 1830,
excited much the attention of geologists as to
whether it was not standing with root uppermost ;
but after a time it was found to be in its natural
position,
A little to the north of the quarry stands the ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [The Water of Leith. and verse, the Ireland Scholarship, and a studentship at Christ ...

Book 5  p. 82
(Score 0.18)

" Edinburgh Castle, tome and tower,
God grant thou sinke for sinne,
An that even for the black dinner
Earle Douglas got therein."
This affair instead of pacifying the country only
led to ruin and civil strife. The Douglas took arms
under James IV., Duke of Touraine and seventh
Earl of Douglas and Angus, and for a long space the
city and neighbourhood were the scene of contest
and ravage by the opposite factions. The Chancellor
remained secure in the Castle, and, to be revenged
on Sir John Forrester, who had laid waste his lands
at Crichton in 1445, he issued forth with his
troopers and garrison, and gave to fire and sword
all the fertile estates of the Douglases and Forresters
westward of the city, including Blackness,
Abercorn, Strathbroc, aid Corstorphine ; and, with
other pillage, carrying off a famous breed of
Flanders mares, he returned to his eyry.
Douglas, who, to consolidate his power had
espoused his cousin the Fair Maid of Galloway,
adding thus her vast estates to his own, and had now,
as hereditary lieutenant-general of the kingdom,
obtained the custody of the young king, came to
Edinburgh with a vast force composed of the
Crown vassals and his own, and laid siege to the
Castle, which the Chancellor defended for nine
months, nor did he surrender even to a summons
sent in the king's name till he had first seciued
satisfactory terms for himself; whfle of his less
fortunate coadjutors, some only redeemed their
lives with their estates, and the others, including
three members of the Livingstone family, were
beheaded within its walls.
The details of this long siege are unknown, but
to render the investment more secure the Parliament,
which had begun its sittings at Perth, was
removed to Edinburgh on the 15th of July, 1446.
After all this, Earl Douglas visited Italy, and in
his absence during the jubilee at Rome in 1450,
Crichton contrived to regain the favour of James
II., who haviyg now the government in his own
hands, naturally beheld with dread the vast power
of the house of Touraine.
How Douglas perished under the king's dagger
in Stirling in 1452 is a matter of general history.
His rival died at a very old age, three years
afterwards, and was interred among his race in
the present noble church of Crichton, which he
founded.
Beneath the Castle ramparts the rising city was
now fast increasing; and in 1450, after the battle
of Sark, in which Douglas Earl of Ormond de.
feated the English with great slaughter, it was
deemed necessary to enclose the city by walls,
scarcely a trace of which now remains, except the
picturesque old ruin known as the Well-house
Tower, at the base of the Castle rock. They ran
along the southern declivity of the ridge on which
the most ancient parts of the town were built, and
after crossing the West Bow -then deemed the
grand entrance to Edinburgh-ran between the
High Street and the hollow, where the Cowgate
(which exhibited then but a few minor edifices) now
stands; they then crossed the main ridge at the
Nether Bow, and terminated at the east end of
the North Loch, which was then formed as a
defence on the north, and in the construction of
which the Royal Gardens were sacrificed. From
this line of defence the entire esplanade of the
Castle was excluded. " Within these ancient
limits," says Wilson, '' the Scottish capital must
have possessed peculiar means of defence-a city
set on a hill and guarded by the rocky fortress,
there watching high the least alarms; it only
wanted such ramparts, manned by its burgher
watch, to enable it to give protection to its princes
and to repel the' inroads of the southern invader.
'The important position which it now held may be
inferred from the investment in the following year
of Pntrick Cockburn of Newbigging (the Provost
of Edinburgh) in the Chancellor's office as governor
of the Castle, as well as his appointment, along
with other commissioners, after the great defeat of
the English at the battle of Sark, to treat for the
renewal of a truce." It seemed then to be always
'' truce " and never peace !
In the Parliament of 1455 we find Acts passed
for watching the fords of the Tweed, and the
erection of bale-fires to give alarm, by day and
night, of inroads from England, to warn Hume,
Haddington, Dunbar, Dalkeith, Eggerhope, and
Edinburgh Castle, thence to Stirling and the north
-arrangements which would bring all Scotland
under arms in two hours, as the same system did
at the time of the False Alarm in 1803. One
bale-he was a signal that the English were in
motion; two that they were advancing; four in a
row signified that they were in great strength. All
men in arms westward of Edinburgh were ta
muster there ; all eastward at Haddington ; and
every Englishman caught in Scotland was lawfully
the prisoner of whoever took him (Acts, 12th Pal.
James 11.). But the engendered hate and jealousy
of England wopld seem to have nearly reached its
culminating point when the 11th Parliament of
James VI., chap. 104, enacted, ungallantly, "that
no Scotsman marrie an Englishwoman without the
king's license under the Great Seal, under pain of
death and escheat of moveables." ... Edinburgh Castle, tome and tower, God grant thou sinke for sinne, An that even for the black dinner Earle ...

Book 1  p. 31
(Score 0.18)

I74 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. ? [Leith.
preachers, who though profound unbelievers in any
kind of consecration, ?? publicly declared that God
would not allow such wickedness and irreverence
to pass unpunished, as it betokened contempt for
the place where men assembled for divine service.?
The troops of the Congregation now imagined that
the vengeance of Heaven impended over them,
ready to burst on the first opportunity, for their
iniquity in using a church as a carpenter?s shop ;
and there was another alarming element in the
ranks, a want of pay, which caused a disinclination
to fight.
Queen Elizabeth had sent the Lords 4,000
crowns of the sun, but these had been abstracted
from the bearer, at the sword?s point, by that
spirit of evil, James, Earl of Bothwell (the future
Duke of Orkney), and now their troops became
disheartened and disorderly. ?? The men of war,?
says Knox, ?who were men without God or
honesty, made a mutiny, because they lacked part
of their wages ; they had done the same in Linlithgow
before, when they made a proclamation
that they would serve any man to suppress the
Congregation, and set up the mass again ! ?
In their desperation the Lords applied to England,
and a meeting was held at Berwick between
the Duke of Norfolk and their delegates, who were
Lord James Stuart (the future Regent Moray), Lord
Ruthven (one of Rizzio?s assassins), James Wishart
of Pittarow, and three others ; and the treaty which
the duke concluded with these Reformers was confirmed
by the Queen of England. The alleged
objects were, ? the defence of the Protestant religion,
of the ancient rights and liberties of Scotland,
against the attempts of France to destroy
them and make a conquest of that free kingdomin
effect, to crush completely the Catholic interest
and the power of the House of Guise.?
The French in Leith cared little for this treaty,
as they were in daily expectation of fresh succours
from France j but their scouting and ravaging detachments
in Fife, under the Count de Martigues,
General d?Oisel, the Swiss leader L?Abast, and
others, were severely cut up by Kirkaldy of Grange,
the Master of Lindsay, and other Protestant
leaders ; disasters followed fast, and before they
could concentrate all their forces in Leith they suffered
considerable loss in skirmishes by the way.
The Lords of the Congregation now ordered a
general muster before the walls of Leith on the
joth of March, 1560, every man to come fully
equipped for battle, with thirty days? provisions ;
and in conformity with the treaty referred to, on
? the 2nd of April there marched into Scotland an
English force, consisting of 1,250 horse and 6,000
infantry, under a brave and experienced leader,
Lord Grey de Wilton, warden of the East and
Middle Marches of England.
Sir James Crofts was his second in command ;
Sir George Howard was general of the men-at-arm%
or heavy cavalry, and Burnley Fitzpatrick was his
lieutenant ; Sir Henry Piercy led the demi-lances,
or light horse ; William Pelham was captain of the
pioneers, Thomas Gower captain of the ordnance ;
the LordScrope was Earl Marshal. Many of these
troops had served at the battle of Pinkie and in
other affairs against Scotland.
Lord Grey?s first halt was at Dunglas, where he
encamped his infantry, while the English cavalry
were peacefully cantoned in the adjacent hamlets.
The second day?s halt was at Haddington. As.
they passed the royal castle of Dunbar the Queen?s.
troops made a sally, an encounter took place, and
some lives were lost. ?The third day?s march,
brought them to Prestonpans, where they met the
Scottish leaders, and had an interview, which is,
perhaps, the more important from the fact that we
now find, for the first time in history, Scottish and
English forces acting together as allies.?
On the first of the same month an English fleet
under Vice-Admiral William Winter, Master of
Elizabeth?s Ordnance, cast anchor in the roads to)
assist in the reduction of Leith. According to
Lediard?s Naval History,? he instantly attacked.
and made himself master of the French ships which
were there at anchor, and blocked up Inchkeith.
It was defended by a French garrison, which was
soon reduced to the last extremity for want of provisions.
All this was done in defiance of the remonstrances.
of M. De Severre, the French ambassad% at the
Regent?s court, who went on board the English
fleet in the roads.
Lord Grey encamped at Restalrig, where he was
joined by the Earls of Argyle, Montrose, and Glencairn
; the Lords Boyd and Ochiltree ; the prior ot
St. Andrews, and the hlaster of Maxwell, with
2,000 men. On this occasion the Town Council of
Edinburgh contributed from the corporation funds
A1,600 Scots, as a month?s pay for 400 men to
assist in the reduction of Leith--?a sum,? says 5
historian, ?which enabled each of these warriors to
live at the rate of twopence-halfpenny a day.?
The Queen Regent, whose dying condition rendered
it impossible for her expose herself to the
hazards of a siege in Leith, retired into the castle of
Edinburgh, where she daily and anxiously watched
the operations of her Scottish enemies and their
English allies The French in Leith were now
reduced to about 5,000 men, whose orders were to ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. ? [Leith. preachers, who though profound unbelievers in any kind of consecration, ?? ...

Book 5  p. 174
(Score 0.18)

382 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Gregfriars Church.
encroaching on one not fit to be touched ! The
whole presents a scene equally nauseous and unwholesome.
How soon this spot will be so surcharged
with animal juices and oils, that, becoming
one mass of corruption, its noxious steams will
burst forth with the prey of a pestilence, we shall
not pretend to determine ; but we will venture to
say, the effects of this burying-ground would ere
now have been severely felt, were it not that, besides
the coldness of the climate, they have been checked
by the acidity of the coal smoke and the height of
the winds, which in the neighbourhood of Edinburgh
blow with extraordinary violence.?
h o t wrote fully a hundred years ago, but since
his time the interments in the Greyfriars went on
till within a recent period.
George Buchanan was buried here in 1582,
under a through-stone, which gradually sank into
the earth and disappeared. The site, distinctly
known in 1701, is now barely remembered by tradition
as being on the north slope of the churchyard;
but a monument in the ground, to the great
Latin scholar and Scottish historian, was erected
by the late great bibliopole, David Laing, so many
years Librarian of the Signet Library, at his own
expense. An essential feature in the memorial is a
head of Buchanan in bronze, from the best likeness
of him extant. The design was furnished by D.
W. Stevenson, A.R.S.A.
Taking some of the interments at, random, here
is the grave of George Heriot (father of the founder
of the adjacent hospital), who died in 1610; of
George Jameson, the Scottish Vandyke, who died
in 1644; and of Alexander Henderson, 1646, the
great covenanting divine, and leading delegate from
Scotland to the Westminster Assembly, and the
principal author of the Assembly?s Catechism. His
ashes lie under a square pedestal tomb, erected
by his nephew, and surmounted by a carved urn.
There are long inscriptions on the four sides.
John Milne?s tomb, 1667, Royal Master Mason
@y sixth descent), erected by his nephew, .Robert
Milne, also Royal Master Mason, and builder of
the modem portions of Holyrood House, records
in rhyme how-
? John Milne, who maketh the fourth John,
And, by descent from father unto son,
Sixth Master Mason to a royal race
Of seven successive kings, sleeps in this place.?
It is a handsome tomb, with columns and a
pediment, and immediately adjoins the eastern or
Candlemaker Row entrance, in the formation of
which some old mural tombs were removed;
among them that of Alexander Millar, Master
Tailor to James VI., dated 1616--Xiit Pnkcz$s et
Civium Zucfu decotafus, as it bore.
A flat stone which, by 1816, was much sunk in
the earth, dated 1613, covered the grave of Dr.
John Nasmyth, of the family of Posso, surgeon of
the king of France?s troop of Scottish Guards, who
died in London, but whose remains had been sent
to the Greyfriars by order of James VI.
The tomb of Sir George Mackenzie of Rosehaugh-
the celebrated lawyer, and founder of the
Advocates? Library, and who, as a persecutor, was so
ahhorred by the people that his spirit was supposed
to haunt the place where he lies-is a handsome
and ornqte octagon temple, with eight pillars, a
cornice, and a dome, on the southern side of the
ground, and its traditional terrors we have already
referred to. But other interments than his have
taken place here. One notably in 1814, when
the widow of Lieutenant Roderick Mackenzie of
Linessie was, at her own desire, laid there, ?in
the tomb of the celebrated Sir George Mackenzie,
who was at the head of the Lochslin family, and
to whom, by the mother?s side, she was nearly
related.? (GenfZeman?s Mng., 1814.)
Near it is the somewhat remarkable tomb of
William Little, whilom Provost of Edinburgh in
1591. He was Laird of Over Liberton, and the
tomb was erected by his great-grandchild in 1683.
His kinsman, Clement Little, Advocate and Commissary
of Edinburgh, whose meagre library formed
the nucleus of that of the university, is also buried
here. It is a mausoleum, composed of a recumbent
female figure, with a pillar-supported canopy above
her, on which stand four female figures at the
several corners. The popular story is that the
lady was poisoned by her four daughters, whose
statues were placed over her in eternal remembrance
of their wickedness; but the effigies are in
reality those of Justice, Charity, Faith, &c., favourite
emblematical characters in that age when the
monument was erected; and the object in placing
them there was merely ornamental.
Here are interred Archibald Pitcairn, the poet,
1713, under a rectangular slab on four pillars, with
an inscription by his friend Ruddiman, near the
north entry of the ground; Colin MacLaurin, the
mathematician, 1746; and William Ged, the inventor
of stereotype printing.
Here was worthy and gentle Allan Ramsay committed
to the grave in 1758, and the just and u p
right Lord President Duncan Forbes of Culloden,
elevenyears before that time. Another famous Lord
President, Robert Blair of Avontoun, was laid here
in 1811.
Here, too, lie the two famous Monros, father and ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Gregfriars Church. encroaching on one not fit to be touched ! The whole presents a ...

Book 4  p. 382
(Score 0.18)

:a brave prince, demanded instant restitution, and,
at the head of an army, laid siege to the Normans
in the border stronghold.
At this time,the winter snow was covering all the
vast expanse of leafless forest, and the hills-then
growing only heath and gorse-around the Castle of
Edinburgh; and there the queen, with her sons
Edmond, Edgar, and David, and her daughters
Mary and Matilda (surnamed the Good, afterwards
queen of Henry I. of England), were anxiously
waiting tidings from the king and his son Edward,
who?had pressed the siege of Alnwick with such
severity that its garrison was hourly expected to
surrender. A sore sickness was now preying on
the wasted frame of the queen, who spent her days
in prayer for the success of the Scots and the
safety of the king. and prince.
All old historians vie with each other in praise of
the virtuous Margaret. ?? When health and beauty
were hers,? says one writer, ?she devoted her
strength to serve the poor and uncultivated people
whom God had committed to her care; she fed them
with her own hand, smoothed their pillow in sickness,
and softened the barbarous and iron rule of
their feudal lords. No wonder that they regarded
her as a guardian angel among them.?
She daily fed three hundred,? says another
authority, ?waiting upon them on her bended
knees, like a housemaid, washing their feet and
kissing them, For these and other expenses she
not only parted with her own royal dresses, but
more than once she drained the treasury.?
Malcolm, a Celt, is said to have been unable to
read the missals given him by his fair-haired Saxon,
but he was wont to kiss them and press them to
his heart in token of love and respect.
In the castle she built the little oratory on the
very summit of the rock. It stands within the
.citadel, and is in perfect preservation, measuring
about twenty-six feet long by ten, and is spanned
by a finely ornamented a p e arch that springs from
massive capitals, and is covered with zig-zag mouldings.
It was dedicated to her in after years, and
liberally endowed.
?There she is said to have prophetically announced
the surprise of the fortress in 1312, by
causing to be painted on the wall a representation
of a man scaling the Castle rock, with the inscription
underneath, ? Garak-vow Franfais,? a prediction
which was conveniently found to be verified
when the Castle was re-taken from the English by
William Frank (or Francis) and Earl Randolph ;
though why the Saxon saint should prophesy in
French we are left to conjecture.?
Comzcted with the residence of Edgar Atheling?s
sister in Edinburgh Castle there is another
legend, which states that while there she commissioned
her friend St. Catharine-but which
St. Catharine it fails to specify-to bring her some
oil from Mount Sinai; and that after long and
sore travel from the rocks of Mount Horeb, the
saint with the treasured oil came in sight of the
Castle of Edinburgh, on that ridge where stood
the Church of St Mary, built by Macbeth, baron
of Liberton. There she let fall the vessel containing
the sacred oil, which was spilt; but there
sprang up in its place a fountain of wonderful
medicinal efficacy, known now as the Balm Well
of St. Catharine, where the oil-which practical
folk say is bituminous and comes from the coal
seams-may still be seen floating on the limpid
water. It figuted long in monkish legends. For ?
vges a mound near it was alleged to be the tomb of
St Catharine; and close by it James IV. erected a
beautiful little chapel dedicated to St. Margaret,
but long since demolished.
During the king?s absence at Alnwick, the queen,
by the severity of her fastings and vigils, increased
a heavy illness under which she laboured. Two
days before her death, Prince Edgar, whom some
writers call her brother, and others her son, arrived
from the Scottish camp with tidings that Malcolm
had been slain, with her son Edward.
? Then,? according to Lord Hailes, who quotes
Turgot?s Life of SL Margaret, ?? lifting up her eyes
and hands towards heaven, she said, Praise and
blessing be to Thee, Almighty God, that Thou hast
been pleased to make me endure so bitter anguish
in the hour of my departure, thereby, as I trust, to
purify me in some measure from the corruption of
my sins; and Thou, Lord Jesus Christ, who
through the will of the Father, hast enlivened
the world by Thy death, oh, deliver me ! ? While
pronouncing ? deliver me? she expired.?
This, according to the Bishop of St. Andrews,
Turgot, previously Prior of Durham, was after she
had heard mass in the present little oratory, and
been borne to the tower on the west side of the
rock ; and she died holding in her hand a famous
relic known as ?the black rood of Scotland,? which
according to St. Elred, ?was a cross an ell long,
of pure gold and wonderful workmanship, having
thereon an ivory figure of our Saviour marvellously
adorned with gold.?
This was on 16th of November, 1093, when she
was in the forty-seventh year of her age. Unless
history be false, with the majesty of a queen and
the meekness of a saint Margaret possessed a
beauty that falls but seldom to the lot of women ;
and in her time she did much to soften the ... brave prince, demanded instant restitution, and, at the head of an army, laid siege to the Normans in the ...

Book 1  p. 18
(Score 0.18)

Wton Hill.] THE BURGH OF CALTON. 103 r
beneath the Caltoun Hill, the .place where those
imaginary criminals, witches, and sorcerers in less
enlightened times were burned ; and where at
festive seasons the gay and gallant held their tilts
and tournaments.?
On the north-westem shoulder of the hill stands
the modern Established Church of Greenside, at
the end of the Royal Terrace, a conspicuous and
attractive feature among the few architectural
decorations of that district. Its tower rises IOO feet
above the porch, is twenty feet square, and contains
a bell of 10 cwt.
The main street of the old barony of the Calton
was named, from the ancient chapel which stood
there, St. Ninian?s Row, and a place so called
still exists; and the date and name ST. NINIAN?S
Row, 1752, yet remains on the ancient well. 01
old, the street named the High Calton, was known
as the Craig End.
In those days?a body existed known as the
High Constables of the Calton, but the new
Municipality Act having extinguished the ancient
boundaries of the city, the constabulary, in 1857,
adopted the following resolution, which is written
on vellum, to the Society of Antiquaries of
Scotland :-
? The district of Calton, or Caldton, formed at
one time part of the estate.of the Elphinstone
family, one of whom-% James, third son of the
third Lord Elphinstone-was created Lord &Imerino
in 1603-4 In 1631 the then Lord
Balmerino granted a charter to the trades of
Calton, constituting them a society or corporation ;
and in 1669 a royal charter was obtained from
Charles II., erecting the district into a burgh of
barony. A court was held by a bailie appointed
by the lord of the manor, and there was founded in
. connectiontherewith, the Societyof Highconstables
of Calton, who have been elected by, and have
continued to act under, the orders of succeeding
Baron Bailies. Although no mention is made 01
our various constabulary bodies in the ? Municipality
Extension Act, 1856,? the venerable office
of Baron Bailie has thereby become extinct, and
the .ancient burghs of Canongate, Calton, Eastern
and Western Portsburgh, are now annexed to the
city. UnGer these circumstances the constabulary
of Calton held an extraordinary meeting on the
17th of March, 1857, at which, infer alia, the
following inotion was carried with acclamation, viz.
? That the burgh having ceased to exist, the con
stabulary, in order that some of the relics and
other insignia belonging to this body should be
preserved for the inspection of future generations,
unanimously resolve to present as a free gift to the
Royal Society of Antiquaries of Scotland the.
following, viz :-Constabulary baton, I 747, moderator?
s official baton, marble bowl, moderator??
state staff, silver-mounted horn with fourteefi
medals, members? small baton; report on the
origin and standing of the High Constables OF
Calton, 1855, and the laws of the society, 1847.??
These relics of the defunct little burgh are
consequently now preserved at the museum in the
Royal Institution.
A kind of round tower, or the basement thereof,
is shown above the south-west angle of the CaltoE
cliffs in Gordon?s view in 1647 ; but of any such
edifice no record remains ; and in the hollow where
Nottingham Place lies now, a group of five isolated
houses, called ? Mud Island,? appears in the maps.
of 1787 and 1798. In 1796, and at many other
times, the magistrates ordained that ? All-hallowfair
be held on the lands of Calton Hill,? as an
open and uncnclosed place, certainly a perilous one,
for tipsy drovers and obstinate cattle. An agriculturist
named Smith farmed the hill and lands
adjacent, now covered by great masses of building,
for several years, till about the close of the 18th
century; and his son, Dr. John Smith, who was
born in 1798, died only in February, 1879, afterbeing
fifty years physician tQ the old charity workhouse
in Forrest Road, .
In 1798, when the Rev. Rowland Hill (thefamous
son of Sir Rowland Hill, of Shropshire).
visited Edinburgh for the first time, he preached
in some of the churches every other day, but the
crowds became so immense, that at last he was
induced to hold forth from a platform erected on
the Calton Hili, where his audience was reckoned.
at not less than 10,000, and the interest excited by
his eloquence is said to have been beyond all
precedent. On his return from the West, he
preached on the hill again to several audiences,.
and on the last of these occasions, when a collection,
was made for the charity workhouse, fully zo,oom
were present. Long years after, when speaking to a.
friend of the multitude whom he had addressed,
there, he said, pleasantly, ? Well do I remember
the spot ; but I understand that it has now been
converted into a den of thieves,? referring to the
gaol now built on the ground where his platform
stood.
The first great cba,nge in the aspect of the hill
was effected by the formation of the Regent Road,
which was cut through the old burying-ground, the
soil of which avenue was decently carted away,
covered with white palls, and full of remnants of
humanity, to the new Calton burying-ground on]
the southern slope ; and the second was the open ... Hill.] THE BURGH OF CALTON. 103 r beneath the Caltoun Hill, the .place where those imaginary criminals, ...

Book 3  p. 103
(Score 0.18)

370 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Heriot?s Hospital
the four blocks at each angle of the quadrangle
are furnished with corbelled turrets, having cupola
roofs and vanes. Each of these is four storeys in
height; the other parts are three.
On the south, opposite the entrance, and facing
Lauriston, is the chapel, 61 feet by 22, neatly fitted
up, and occasioning a projection, surmounted by
a small spJe, which balances the tower on the
north For a long period it remained in a comparatively
unfinished state, when it was fitted up in
what Dr. Steven calls a ?flimsy species of Italian
architecture,? excepting the pulpit and end galleries,
which were a kind of Early English, but meagre in
their details. But forty years ago or so, Mr.
Gillespie Graham, the architect, suggested that the
chapel should be entirely renovated in a style
worthy of the building, and he offered to prepare
the designs gratuitously. This generous offer was
accepted, and it was fitted up in its present
elegant style. It has a handsome pulpit, a richly
adorned ceiling, and many beautiful carvings of oak.
In an architectural point of view this famous
hospital is full of contradictions, but when viewed
from distant points, its turrets, chimneys, and pipnades
stand up against the sky in luxuriant confusion,
yet with singular symmetry, though no two
portions are quite alike. A professional writer
says, ? we know of no other instance in the works
of a man of acknowledged talent, where the operation
of changing styles is so evident. In the chapel
windows, though the outlines are fine Gothic, the
mouldings are Roman. In the eatrance archways,
although the principal members are Roman, the
pinnacles, trusses, and minute sculptures partake
of the Gothic.??
This building has another marked peculiarity,
in the segment of an octagonal tower in frontthat
of the chapel-lighted through its whole extremity
by a succession of Gothic windows divided
by mullions alone, which produce a singularly rich
and pleasing effect.
The hospital is surroundedby a stately and magnificent
balustraded terrace, from which noble flights
of at least twelve steps descend to the ground.
In the wall over the gateway is a statue of
George Heriot, the founder, in the?costume of the
time of James VI. This, the boys on ?? Heriot?s
Day,? the first Monday of June, decorate with
flowers, in honour of their benefactor, of whom
several relics are preserved in the hospital, particularly
his bellows and cup. There is also a portrait
of him, said to be only the copy of an original.
It represents him in the prime of life, with a
calm, thoughtful, and penetrating countenance, and
about the mouth an expression of latent humour.
Heriot?s foundation has continued to flourish
and enjoy a well-deserved fame. (?With an
annual revenue,? says a writer in 1845, ? of nearly AI 5,000, it affords maintenance, clothing, and
education for, also pecuniary presents to, one hundred
and eighty boys, such being all that the house
large as it is, is able conveniently to accommodate.
Instead of increasing the establishment in correspondence
with the extent of the funds, it was suggested
a few years ago, by Mr. Duncan Machen,
one of the governors, to devote an annual ovcrplus
ofabout L3,ooo to the erection and maintenance of
free schools throughout the city, for the education
of poor children, those of poor burgesses being
preferred, and this judicious proposal being forthwith
adopted and sanctioned by an Act of Parliament
(6 and 7 William IV,), there have since
been erected, and are now (1845) in operation, five
juvenile and two infant schools, giving an elementary
education to 2,131 children.? This number
has greatly increased since then.
The management of the hospital is vested in
the Lord Provost, Bailies, and Council of the city,
and the clergy of the Established Church, making
in all fifty-four governors, with a House Governor,
Treasurer, Clerk, Superintendent of Property, Physician,
Surgeon, Apothecary, Dentist, Accountant,
a matron, and a staff of masters.
In 1880 the revenue of the hospital amounted
to &24,000. In it are maintained 180 boys,
of whom 60 are noh-resident. The age of admission
is between 7 and 10 years, though in exceptional
cases, non-residents may be taken at 12. All
leave at 14, unless they pass as ? hopeful scholars.?
They are taught English, French, Latin, Greek, and
all the usual branches of a liberal education, with
music and drawing.
Those who manifest a desire to pursue the
learned professions are sent to the adjacent University,
with an allowance for four sessions of A30
per annum; and apprentices may also receive
bursary allowances to forward them in their trades ;
while ten out-door bursaries, of;t;zo each yearly, are
likewise bestowed on deserving students at college.
On leaving the hospital the ?poore fatherless
boyes, freemen?s sonnes,? as Heriot calls them in
his will, are provided with clothes and suitable
books; and such of them as become apprentices
for five years or upwards, receive A50 divided into
equal annual payments during their term of service,
besides a gratuity of jC;5 at its end. Those who
are apprenticed for a shorter term than five years
receive a correspondingly less allowance.
One master is resident, as is the house governor,
but all the rest are non-resident. ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Heriot?s Hospital the four blocks at each angle of the quadrangle are furnished with ...

Book 4  p. 370
(Score 0.18)

Colinton.] JUNIPER GREEN. 323
when the village was occupied on the 18th August
by ten companies of Monk?s Regiment (now the
Coldstream Guards), of which Captain Gough of
Berwick was lieutenant-colonel, and Captain
Holmes of Newcastle, major, prior to the storming
of the fortalices of Redhall and Colinton, before
the 24th of the same month. (?Records: Cold.
Guards.?) Redhall, in after years, was the patrimony
of Captain John Inglis, of H.M.S. Be&
pueux, who, at the battle of Camperdown, whq
confused by the signals of the admiral, shouted
with impatience to his sailing-master, ?? Hang it,
Jock ! doon wi? the helm, and gang iicht into the
middle o?t ! ? closing his telescope as he spoke.
Old Colinton House was, at the period of the
Protectorate, occupied by the Foulis family (now
represented by that of Woodhall in the same parish)
whose name is alleged to be a corruption of the
Norman, as their arms are azure, their bay leaves
uert, in old Norman called fed&. Be that as it
may, the family is older than is stated by Sir Bernard
Burke, as there were two senators of the College
of Justice, each Lord Colinton respectively-James
Foulis in 1532, and John Foulis in 1541; and
there was a James. Fodlis of Colinton, who lived
in the reigns of Mary and James VI., who married
Apes Heriot of Lumphoy, whose tombstone is yet
preserved in an aisle of Colinton Church, and
bears this inscription :-
HERE. LYES. ANE. HONORABIL. WOMAN. A. HERIOT.
SPOVS. TO . J. FOULIS . OF . COLLINT3VN. VAS. QUHA .
DEID . 8 . AUGUST. 1593.
They had four sons-James, who succeeded to
the estate; George, progenitor of the house of
Ravelston ; David, progenitor of the English family
of Ingleby Manor, Yorkshire ; and John, of ?he
Leadhills, whose granddaughter became ancestress
of the Earls of Hopetoun.
Alexander Foulis, of Colinton, was created a
baronet of Nova Scotia in 1634, and his son Sir
James, whose house was stormed by the troops of
Monk, having attended a convention of the estates
in Angus, was betrayed into the hands of the English,
together with the Earls of Leven, Crawford,
Marischal, the Lord Ogilvy, and many others, who
were surprised by a party of Cromwell?s cavalry,
under Colonel Aldridge, on August, 1651, and
taken as prisoners of war to London. He married
Barbara Ainslie of Dolphinton, but, by a case
reported by Sir James Dalrymple of Stair, in 1667,
he would seem to have been in a treaty of marriage
with Dame Margaret Erskine, Lady Tarbet, which
led to a somewhat involved suit before the Lords
of Council and Session. After the Restoration he
was raised to the-Bench as Lord Colinton, and was
succeeded by his son, also a Lord of Session, and
a member of the last Scottish Parliament in 1707,
the year of the Union.
he joined the Duke of Hamilton,
the Earl of Athol, and many others of the nobility
and gentry, in their celebrated protest made by the
Earl of Errol, respecting the most constitutional
defence of the house of legislature, He also
joined in the protest, which declared that an incorpotating
union of the two nations was inconsistent
with the honour of Scotland.?
Further details of this family will be found in
the account of Ravelston (p. 106).
The mansions and villas of many other families
are in this somewhat secluded district ; the principal
one is perhaps the modern seat of the late
Lord Dunfermline, on a beautifully wooded hill
overhanging the village on the south. Colinton
House was built by Sir William Forbes of Pitsligo,
Bart. Near it, the remains of the old edifice, of the
same name, form a kind of decorative ruin.
Dreghorn Castle, a stately modern edifice, with
a conspicuous round tower, is situated on the
northern slope of the Pentlands, at an elevation of
489 feet above the sea. John Maclaurin, son of
Colin Maclaurin, the eminent mathematician, was
called to the bench as Lord Dreghorn. A learned
correspondence, which took place in 17 go, between
him, Lord Monboddo, and M. Le Chevalier, afterwards
secretary to Talleyrand, on the site of Troy,
will be found in the Scots Magazine for 1810.
The name of this locality is very old, as among
the missing crown charters of Robert II., is one
confirming a lease by Alexander Meygners of
Redhall, to Robert, Earl of Fife and Menteith, of
the barony of Redhall in the shire of Edinburgh,
except Dreghorn and Woodhall; and of the barony
of Glendochart in Perthshire, during the said Earl?s
life. In the early part of the eighteenth century
it was the property of a family named Home.
Near Woodhall, in the parish of Colinton, is the
little modern village of Juniper Green, chiefly
celebrated as being the temporary residence of
Thomas Carlyle, some time after his marriage at
Comely Bank, Stockbridge, where, as he tells us in
his ?? Reminiscences ? (edited by Mr. Froude), ?his
first experience in the difficulties of housekeeping
began.? Carlyle?s state of health required perfect
quiet, if not absolute solitude; but at Juniper
Green, as at Comely Bank, their house was much
frequented by the literary society of the day; and,
among others, by Chalmers, Guthrie, and Lord
Jeffrey, whose intimacy with Carlyle .rapidly increased
after the first visit he paid him at Comely
Bank. ?He was much taken with my little
-4fter that ... JUNIPER GREEN. 323 when the village was occupied on the 18th August by ten companies of Monk?s ...

Book 6  p. 323
(Score 0.18)

Canongate.] THE TENNIS COURT. ? 39
Scotland, and who for some years had been Commissioner
to the General Assembly. In this house
he died, 28th July, 1767, as recorded in the Scots
Magazine, and was succeeded by his son, Major-
General the Earl of Ancrum, Colonel of the 11th
Light Dragoons (now Hussars). His second son,
Lord Robert, had been killed at Culloden.
His marchioness, Margaret, the daughter of Sir
Thomas Nicholson, Bart., of Kempnay, who survived
him twenty years, resided in Lothian Hut
till her death. It was afterwards occupied by the
dowager of the ? fourth Marquis, Lady Caroline
D?Arcy, who was only daughter of Robert Earl
of Holderness, and great-grand-daughter of Charles
Louis, the Elector Palatine, a lady whose character
is remembered traditionally to have been both
grand and amiable. Latterly the Hut was the
residence of Professor Dugald Stewart, who, about
the end of the last century, entertained there many
English pupils of high rank. Among them, perhaps
the most eminent was Henry Temple, afterwards
Lord Palmerston, whose education, commenced
at Harrow, was continued at the University
of Edinburgh. When he re-visited the latter city in
1865, during his stay he was made aware that an
aged woman, named Peggie Forbes, who had been
a servant with Dugald Stewart at Lothian Hut,
was still alive, and residing at No. I, Rankeillor
Street. There the great statesman visited her, and
expressed the pleasure he felt at renewing the
acquaintance of the old domestic.
Lothian Hut, the scene of Dugald Stewart?s
most important literary labours, was pulled down
ih 1825, to make room for a brewery ; but a house
of the same period, at the south-west corner of the
Horse Wynd, bears still the name of Lothian
Vale.
A little to the eastward of the present White
Horse hostel, and immediately adjoining the Water
Gate, stood the Hospital of St. Thomas, founded
in 154r by George Crichton, Bishop of Dunkeld,
?dedicated to God, the Blessed Virgin Mary, and
all the saints.? It consisted of an almshouse and
chapel, the bedesmen of which were ?to celebrate
the founder?s anniversary obit. by solemnly singing
in the choir of Holyrood church yearly, on the
day of his death, ?the Placebo and Dinie for the
repose of his soul ? and the soul of the King of
Scotland. ? Special care,? says Amot, ? was taken
in allotting money for providing candles to be
lighted during the anniversary ma.ss of requiem,
and the number and size of the tapers were fixed
with a precision which shows the importance in
which these circumstances were held by the founder.
The number of masses, paternosters, aye-marias,
and credos, to be said by the chaplain and bedesmen
is distinctly ascertained.?
The patronage of the institution was vested by
the founder in himself and a certain series of representatives
named by him.
In 1617, with the consent of David Crichton of
Lugton, the patron, who had retained possession
of the endowments, the magistrates of the Canongate
purchased the chapel and almshouse from the
chaplains and bedesmen, and converted the institution
into a hospital for the poor of the burgh.
Over the entrance they placed the Canongate arms,
supported by a pair of ?cripples, an old man and
woman, with the inscription-
HELP HERE THE POORE, AS ZE WALD GOD DID ZOV.
JUNE 19, 1617.
The magistrates of the Canongate sold the patronage
of the institution in 1634 to the Kirk Session,
by whom its revenues ? were entirely embezzled f
by 1747 the buildings were turned into coachhouses,
and in 1787 were pulled down, and replaced
by modem houses of hideous aspect.
On the opposite side of the Water Gate was the
Royal Tennis Court, the buildings of which are
very distinctly shown in Gordon?s map of 1647.
Maitland says it was anciently called the Catchpel,
from Cache, a game now called Fives, a favourite
amusement in Scotland as early as the reign of
James IV. The house, a long, narrow building,
with a court, after being a weavers? workhouse,
was burned down in 1771, and rebuilt in the
tasteless fashion of that period ; but the locality is
full of interest, as being connected not only with
the game of tennis, as played there by the Duke
of Albany, Law the great financial schemer, and
others, but the early and obscure history of the
stage in Scotland.
In 1554 there was a ??litill farsche and play
maid be William Lauder,? and acted before the
Queen Regent, Mary of Guise, for which he was
rewarded by two silver cups. Where it was acted
is not stated. Neither are we told where was perlormed
another play, ? made by Robert Simple ?
at Edinburgh, before the grim Lord Regent and
others of the nobility in 1567, and for which the
mthor was paid ;E66 13s. 4d.
The next record of .a post-Reformation theatre is
in the time of James VI. when several companies
came from London for the amusement of the court,
including one of which Shakspere was a member,
though his appearance cannot be substantiated.
In 1599 the company of English comedians was
interdicted by the clergy and Kirk Session,
though their performances, says Spottiswoode in ... THE TENNIS COURT. ? 39 Scotland, and who for some years had been Commissioner to the General ...

Book 3  p. 39
(Score 0.18)

Leith Wynd.] THE TRINITY HOSPITAL. 307
was abandoned. At length, as stated, Robert
Pont, in. 1585, resigned all his rights and interests
in the establishment, for the sum of 300 merks
down, and an annuity of A160 Scots.
In 1587 an Act was passed revoking all grants
made during the king?s minority, of hospitals,
Maiso?ss Dieu, and ? lands or rentis appertaining
thereto,? the object of which was, that they might
be applied to this original purpose-the sustentation
of the poor, and not to the aggrandisement of
mere individuals ; and in this Act it was specially
ordained, that the rents of the Trinity College,
? quhilk is now decayit,? be .assigned to ? the new
hospital1 erectit be the Provest, Baillies, and
Counsall;? and thus it became for ever a corporation
charity, for which a suitable edifice was found
by simply repairing the ruinous buildings, occupied
of old by the Provost and prebends, south of the
church, and on the west side of the wynd.
It was a fine specimen of the architecture and
monastic accommodation of the age in which it
was erected. It was two storeys high, and formed
two sides of a square, and though far from ornamental,
its air of extreme antiquity, the smallness
and depth of its windows, its silent, melancholy,
and deserted aspect, in the very heart of a crowded
city, and latterly amid the uproar and bustle of the
fast-encroaching railway, seldom failed to strike the
passer with a mysterious interest.
Along the interior of the upper storey of the
longer side there was a gallery, about half the
width of the house, lighted from the west, which
served alike as a library (consisting chiefly of
quaint old books of dry divinity), a promenade, and
grand corridor, winged with a range of little rooms,
some whilom the prebends? cells, each of which had
a bed, table, and chair, for a single occupant The
other parts of the building were more modem
sitting rooms, the erection of the sixteenth century,
when it became destined to support decayed
burgesses of Edinburgh, their wives and unmarried
children, above fifty years of age. ?Five men
and two women were first admitted into it,? says
h o t , ? and, the number gradually increasing,
amounted AD. 1700 to fifty-four persons. It was
found, however, that the funds of the hospital
could not then support so many, and the number
of persons maintained in it,has frequently varied.
At present (?779) there are within the hospital
forty men and women, and, there are besides twentysix
out-pensioners. The latter have E 6 a year,
the former are maintained in a very comfortable
manner. Each person has a convenient room.
The men are each allowed a hat, a pair of breeches,
a pair of shoes, a pair of stackings, two shirts, and
two neckcloths, yearly; and every other year a
coat?and waistcoat The women have yearly, a
pair of shoes, pair of stockings, two shifts; and
every other year a gown and petticoat. For buying
petty necessaries the men are allowed 6s. Sd.,
the women 6s. 6d., yearly. Of food, each person
has a daily allowance of twelve ounces of household
bread; and of ale, the men a Scots pint each,
the women two-thirds of a pint. For breakfast
they have oatmeal-porridge, and for dinner, four
days in the week, broth and boiled meat, two days
roast meat, and each Monday, in lieu of flesh, the
men are allowed zd., the women rid. apiece.?
Such was this old charity towards the close of
the eighteenth century. The inmates were of a
class above the common, and whom a poor-house
life would have degraded, yet quarrels, even riots,
among them were 80 frequent, that the attention of
the governors had more than once to be called
to the subject, though they met only at meals
and evening worship. Yet, occasionally, some
belonged to the better classes of society. Lord
Cockburn, writing in 1840, says:-?One of the
present female pensioners is ninety-six. She was
sitting beside her own fire. The chaplain shook her
kindly by the hand, and asked her how she was.
? Very weel-just in my creeping ordinary.? There
is one Catholic here, a merry little woman, obviously
with some gentle blood in her veins, and delighted
to allude to it. This book she got from Sir John
Something ; her great friend had been Lady something
Cunningham ; and her spinet was the oldest
that had ever been made ; to convince me of which
she opened it, and pointed exultingly to the year
I 776. Neither she nor the ninety-six-year-old
was in an ark, but in a small room. On overhearing
my name, she said she was once at Miss Brandon?s
boarding-school, in Bristo Street, with a Miss
Matilda Cockburn, ? a pretty little girl.? I told her
that I remembered that school quite well, and that
the little girl was my sister ; and then I added as a
joke, that all the girls at that school were said
to have been pretty, and all light-headed, and given
to flirtation ; the tumult revived in the vestal?s veins.
Delighted with the imputation, she rubbed her
hands together, and giggled till she wept.? The
octogenarian he refers to was a Miss Gibb, and
the last nearly of the old original inmates.
By 1850 the revenues amounted to about
#,ooo per annum.
At its demolition, in 1845, forty-two persons
were maintained within the hospital, who then
received pensions of A26 each. Those elected
since that period receive L20 yearly each; one
hundred and twenty others have an annual allowance ... Wynd.] THE TRINITY HOSPITAL. 307 was abandoned. At length, as stated, Robert Pont, in. 1585, resigned all ...

Book 2  p. 307
(Score 0.18)

Here some stone coffins, or cists, were found by
the workmen, when preparing the ground for the - -
erection of Oxford Terrace, which f&es the north,
and has a most commanding site; and in October,
1866, at the foundations of Lennox Street, which runs
southward from the terrace at an angle, four solitary
ancient graves were discovered a little below the
surface. ?They lay north and south,? says a local
annalist, ?and were lined with slabs of undressed
stone. The length of these graves was abou!
four feet, and the breadth little beyond two feet,
so that the bodies must have been buried in a
sitting posture, or compressed in some .way. This
must have been the case in the short cists or coffins
made of slabs of stone, while in the great cists,
which were about six feet long, the body lay at full
length.?
On both sides of the Water of Leith lies Stockbridge,
some 280 yards east of the Dean Bridge.
Once a spacious suburb, it is now included in the
growing northern New Town, and displays a
curious mixture of grandeur and romance, with
something of classic beauty, and, in more than
one quarter, houses of rather a mean and humble
character. One of its finest features is the double
crescent called St. Bernard?s, suggested by Sir David
Wilkie, constructed by Sir Henry Raeburn, and
adorned with the grandest Grecian Doric pillars
that are to be found in any other edifice not a
public one.
Here the Water of Leith at times flows with
considerable force and speed, especially in seasons
of rain and flood. Nicoll refers to a visitation in
1659, when ?the town of Edinburgh obtained an
additional impost upon the ale sold in its boundsit
was now a full penny a pint, so that the liquor rose
to the unheard of price of thirty-two pence Scots,
for that quantity. Yet this imposition seemed not
to thrive,? he continues superstitiously, ? for at the
same instant, God frae the heavens declared His
anger by sending thunder and unheard-of tempests,
storms, and inundations of water, whilk destroyed
their common mills, dams, and warks, to the toun?s
great charges and expenses. Eleven mills belonging
to Edinburgh, and five belonging to Heriot?s Hospital,
all upon the Water of Leith, were destroyed on
this occasion, with their dams, water-gangs, timber
and stone-warks, the haill wheels of their mills,
timber-graith, and haill other warks.?
In 1794-5 there was a ?spate? in the river,
when the water rose so high that access to certain
houses in Haugh Street was entirely cut off, and a
mamage party-said to be that of the parents of
David Roberts, R.A.-was nearly swept away. In
1821 a coachman with his horse was carried down
the stream, and drowned near the gate of Inverleith ;
and in 1832 the stream flooded all the low-lying
land about Stockbridge, and did very considerable
damage.
This part of the town annot boast of great
antiquity, for we do not find it mentioned by
Nicoll in the instance of the Divine wrath being
excited by the impost on ale, or in the description
of Edinburgh preserved in the Advocates? Library,
and supposed to have been written between 1642
and 1651, and which refers to many houses and
hamlets on the banks of the Water of Leith,
The steep old Kirk Loan, that led, between
hedgerows, to St. Cuthbert?s, is now designated
Church Lane; where it passed the grounds of
Drumsheugh it was bordered by a deep ditch. A
village had begun to spring up here towards the
end of the seventeenth century, and by the year
1742, says a pamphlet by Mr. C. Hill, the total
population amounted to 574 persons. Before the
city extended over the arable lands now occupied
by the New Town, the village would be deemed as
somewhat remote from the old city, and the road
that led to it, down by where the Royal Circus
stands now, was steep, bordered by hawthorn
hedges, and known as ?Stockbrig Brae.?
It is extremely probable that the name originated
in the circumstance of the first bridge having been
built of wood, for which the old Saxon word was
sfoke; and a view that has been preserved of it,
drawn in 1760, represents it as a structure of beams
and pales, situated a little way above where the
present bridge stands.
In former days, the latter-like that at Canonmills-
was steep and narrow, but by raising up
the banks on both sides the steepness was removed,
and it was widened to double its original breadth.
The bridge farther up the stream, at Mackenzie
Place, was built for the accommodation of the
feuars of St. Bernard?s grounds ; and between these
two a wooden foot-bridge at one time existed, for
the convenience of the residents in Anne Street.
The piers of it are still remaining.
St. Bernard?s, originally a portion of the old
Dean estate, was acquired by Mr. Walter ROSS,
W.S., whose house, a large, irregular, three-storeyed
edifice, stood on the ground now occupied by the
east side of Carlton Street; and this was the
house afterwards obtained by Sir Henry Raeburn,
and in which he died. Mr. Ross was a man of
antiquarian taste, and this led him to collect many
of the sculptured stones from old houses then in
the process of demolition in the city, and some
of these he built into the house. In front of one
projection he built a fine Gothic window, and ... some stone coffins, or cists, were found by the workmen, when preparing the ground for the - - erection of ...

Book 5  p. 71
(Score 0.18)

St Andrew Square] ROYAL BANK
bank. The other existing banks have all been
constituted by contracts of co-partnery since the
year 1825, and, with the exception of the Caledonian
Banking Company, are all carrying on
business under the Companies Act of 1862. With
this office is incorporated No. 41, which, in 1830,
was the shop of Messrs. Robert Cadell and Co.,
the eminent booksellers and publishers.
The Royal Bank of Scotland occupies a pre
minent position on the west side of the square, in a
deep recess between the British Linen Company
and the Scottish Provident Institution.
It was originally the town house of Sir Lawrence
Dundas, Bart., and was one of the first houses
built in the square, on what we believe was intended
as the place for st. Andrew?s church. The
house was designed by Sir William Chambers, on
the model of a much-admired villa near Rome, and
executed by William Jamieson, mason. Though
of an ancient family, Sir Lawrence was the architect
of his own fortune, and amassed wealth as a conimissary-
general with the army in Flanders, 1748 to
1759. He was the second son of Thomas Dundas,
a bailie of Edinburgh, whose diffculties brought
him to bankruptcy, and for a time Sir Lawrence
served behind a counter, He was created a
baronet in 1762, with remainder, in default of
male issue, to his elder brother, Thomas Dundas,
who had succeeded to the estate of Fingask. His
son Thomas was raised to the peerage of Great
Britain as Baron Dundas of Aske, in Yorkshire, in
August, 1794 and became ancestor of the Earls of
Zetland.
About 1820 the Royal Bank, which had so long
conducted its business in the Old Bank Close in
the High Street, removed to the house of Sir
Lawrence Dundas.
We have thus shown that St. Andrew Square is
now as great a mart for business as it was once a
fashionable quarter, and some idea may be had of
the magnitude of the interests here at stake when
it is stated that the liabilities-that is, the total sums
insured-of the six leading insurance houses alone
exceed ~45,ooo,ooo, and that their annual income
is upwards of ~1,8oo,ooo-a revenue greater than
that of several States !
Melville?s monument, in the centre of the square,
was erected in 1821, in memory of Henry Dundas,
first Viscount Melville, who was Lord Advocate in
1775, and filled some high official situations in the
Government of Britain during the administration
of William Pitt He was raised to the peerage in
OF SCOTLAND. 171
1802, and underwent much persecution in 1805
for alleged malversation in his office as treasurer to
the navy; but after a trial by his peers was triumphantly
judged not guilty.
Designed by William Burn, this monument consists
of pedestal, pillar, and statue, rising to the
height of 150 feet, niodelled after the Trajan
column at Rome, but fluted and not ornamented
with sculpture; the statue is 14 feet in height.
The cost was _f;8,ooo, defrayed-8s the inverse
side of the plate in the foundation stone states
-?by the voluntary contribbtions of the officers,
petty-officers, seamen, and marines of these united
kingdoms.? It was laid by Admirals Sir D a d
Milne and Otway, naval commander-inchief in
Scotland, after prayer by Principal Baird, on the
anniversary of Lord Melville?s birthday. In the
stone was deposited a great plate of pure gold,
bearing the inscription. A plate of silver bearing
the names of the committee was laid in the stone
at the same time.
The Hopetoun monument, within the recess in
front of the Royal Bank, is in memory of Sir John
Hope, fourth Earl of Hopetoun, G.C.H., Colonel
of the gznd Gordon Highlanders, who died in
1823, a distinguished Peninsular officer, who assumed
the command of the army at Corunna, on
the fall of his countryman Sir John Moore. It was
erected in 1835, and comprises a bronze statue, in
Roman costume, leaning on a pawing charger.
West Register Street, which immediately adjoins
St. Andrew Square, is a compound of several
short thoroughfares, and contains the site of
?( Ambrose?s Tavern,? the scene of Professor NIson?s
famous ?Noctes Ambrosianze,? with a remnant
of the once narrow old country pathway
known as Gabriel?s Road. cG Ambrose?s Tavern,?
a tall, three-storeyed edifice, like a country farmhouse,
enjoyed much repute independent of the
?Noctes,? and was removed in 1864. Hogg, the
Ettrick .Shepherd, who was fond of all athletic
sports and manly exercises, was long made to
figure conspicuously in these Noctes ? in BZack3
wmZs Magazine, which gave his name a celebrity
beyond that acquired by his own writings.
At one of the corners of West Register Street is
the great palatial paper warehouse of the Messrs
Cowan, one of the most elaborately ornate busiqess
establishments in the city, which was erected in
1865, by the Messrs. Beattie, at a cost of about
A7,000, and has two ornamental fronts with chaste
and elegant details in the florid Italian styk ... Andrew Square] ROYAL BANK bank. The other existing banks have all been constituted by contracts of co-partnery ...

Book 3  p. 171
(Score 0.18)

Abbeyhill.] BARON NORTON. I27
CHAPTER XIII.
THE DISTRICT OF RESTALRIG.
Abhey Hill-Baron Norton-Alex. Campbell and ? Albyn?s Anthology ?--Comely Gardens-Easter Road-St. Margaret?s Well-Church and
Legend of St. Triduana-Made Collegiate by James 111.-The Mausoleum-Old Bardns of Restalrig-pe Logans, &c.-Conflict of
Black Saturday-Residents of Note-First Balloon in Britain-Rector Adams-The Nisbets of Craigantinnie and Dean-The Millers-
The Craieantinnie Tomb and Marbles-The Marionville Traeedv-The Hamlet of Jock?o Lodge-Mail-bag Robberies in seventeenth and - _
eighteenth centuries-Piershill House and Barracks.
AT the Abbey Hill, an old house-in that antiquated
but once fashionable suburb, which grew
up in the vicinity of the palace of Holyrood-with
groups of venerable trees around it, which are now,
like itself, all swept away to make room for the present
Abbeyhill station and railway to Leith, there
lived long the Hon. Fletcher Norton, appointed one
of the Barons of the Scottish Exchequer in 1776,
with a salary of &2,865 per annum, deemed a handsome
income in those days.
He was the second son of Fletcher Norton of
Grantley in Yorkshire, who was Attorney-General
of England in 1762, and was elevated to the British
peerage in 1782, as Lord Grantley.
He came to Scotland at a time when prejudices
then against England and Englishmen were strong
and deep, for the rancour excited by the affair of
1745, about thirty years before, was revived by the
periodical publication of the Nhth Briton, but
Baron Norton soon won the regard of all who knew
him. His conduct as a judge increased the respect
which his behaviour in private life obtained, His
perspicacity easily discovered the true merits of any
cause before him, while his dignified and conciliatory
manner, joined to the universal confidence
which prevailed in his rigid impartiality, reconciled
to him even those who suffered by such verdicts as
were given against them in consequence of his
charges to the juries.
He married in 1793 a Scottish lady, a Miss Balmain,
and in the Edinburgh society of his time stood
high in the estimation of all, ?as a husband, father,
friend, and master,? according to a print of 1820.
? His fund of information-of anecdotes admirably
told-his social disposition, and the gentlemanly
pleasantness of his manner, made his society to be
universally coveted. Resentment had no place in
his bosom. He seemed almost insensible to injury
so immediately did he pardon it. Amongst his
various pensioners were several who had shown
marked ingratitude ; but distress, with him, covered
every offence against himself.?
He was a warm patron of the amiable and enthusiastic,
but somewhat luckless Alexander Campbell,
author of ? The Grampians Desolate,? which
?fell dead ? from the press, and editor of ? Albyn?s
Anthology,? who writes thus in the preface to the
first volume of that book in 1816, and which, we
may mention, was a ? collection of melodies and
local poetry peculiar to Scotland and the isles ? :-
? So far back as the year 1780, while as yet the
editor of ?Albyn?s Anthology? was an organist to
one of the Episcopal chapels in Edinburgh, he projected
the present work. Finding but small encouragement
at that period, and his attention being
directed to pursuits of quite a different nature, the
plan was dropped, till by an accidental turn of conversation
at a gentleman?s table, the Hon. Fletcher
Norton gave a spur to the speculation now in its
career. He with that warmth of benevolence
peculiarly his own, offered his influence with the
Royal Highland Society of Scotland, of which he is
a member of long standing, and in conformity with
the zeal he has uniformly manifested for everything
connected with the distinction and prosperity of our
ancient realm, on the editor giving him a rough
outline of the present undertaking, the Hon. Baron
put it into the hands of Henry Mackenzie, Esq., of
the Exchequer, and Lord Bannatyne, whose influence
in the society is deservedly great. And
immediately on Mr. Mackenzie laying it before a
select committee for music, John H. Forbes, Esq.
(afterwards Lord Medwyn), as convener of the
committee, convened it, and the result was a recommendation
to the society at large, who embraced
the project cordially, voted a sum to enable the
editor to pursue his plan ; and forthwith he set out
on a tour through the Highlands and western
islands. Having performed a journey (in pursuit
of materials for the present work) of between eleven
and twelve hundred miles, in which he collected
191 specimens of melodies and Gaelic vocal poetry,
he returned to Edinburgh, and laid the fruits of
his gleanings before the society, who were pleased
to honour with their approbation his success in
attempting to collect and preserve the perishing remains
of what is so closely interwoven with the
history and literature of Scot!and.?
From thenceforth the ?? Anthology? was a success,
and a second volume appeared in 1818. Under
the influence of Baron Norton, Campbell got many
able contributors, among whom appear the names
of Scott, Hogg, Mrs. Grant of Laggan, RIaturin, and
Jamieson. ... BARON NORTON. I27 CHAPTER XIII. THE DISTRICT OF RESTALRIG. Abhey Hill-Baron Norton-Alex. Campbell ...

Book 5  p. 127
(Score 0.18)

262 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street
other services, Charles Philip Count d?artois,
brother of the ill-fated Louis XVI., and his son
the Duc d?Angoul&me, while, in the earlier years
of their exile, they resided at Holyrood, by
permission of the British Government, though the
people of Scotland liked to view it as in virtue of
the ancient Alliance; and a most humble place
of worship it must have seemed to the count,
who is described as having been ?the most
gay, gaudy, fluttering, accomplished, luxurious,
and expensive prince in Europe.? A doorway inscribed
in antique characters of the 16th century,
Miserwe mei Dew, gave access to this chapel. It
bore a shield in the centre with three mullets in
chief, a plain cross, and two swords saltire-waysthe
coat armorial of some long-forgotten race.
Another old building adjoined, above the door
of which was the pious legend ranged in two lines,
The feeir of the Lordis the Qegynning of al visdome,
but as to the generations of men that dwelt there
not even a tradition remains.
Lower down, at the south-west corner of the
Wynd, there formerly stood the English Episcopal
Chapel, founded, in 1722, by the Lord Chief Baron
Smith of the Exchequer Court, for a clergyman
qualified to take the oaths to Government. To
endow it he vested a sum in the public funds for
the purpose of yielding A40 per annum to the
incumbent, and left the management in seven
trustees nominated by himself. The Baron?s
chapel existed for exactly a century; it was demolished
in 1822, after serving as a place of worship
for all loyal and devout Episcopal High
Churchmen at a time when Episcopacy and
Jacobitism were nearly synonymous terms in Scotland.
It was the most fashionable church in the
city, and there it was that Dr. Johnson sat in 1773,
when on his visit to Boswell. When this edifice
was founded, according to Arnot, it was intended
that its congregation should unite with others of
the Episcopal persuasion in the new chapel ; but
the incumbent, differing from his hearers about the
mode of his settlement there, chose to withdraw
himself again to that in which he was already
established.
.? After the accession of George III., ?certain
officious people ? lodged information against some
of the Episcopal clergymen ; ?? but,? says Amot,
? the officers of state, imitating the liberality and
clemency of their gracious master, discountenanced
such idle and invidious endeavours at oppression.?
In the Blackfriars Wynd-though in what part
thereof is not precisely known now, unless on the
site of Baron Smith?s chapel-the semi-royal House
of Sinclair had a town. mansion. They were
Princes and Earls of Orkney, Lords of Roslin,
Dukes of Oldenburg, and had a list oE titles that
has been noted for its almost Spanish tediousness.
In his magnificence, Earl William-who built
Roslin Chapel, was High Chancellor in 1455, and
ambassador to England in the same year-far surpassed
what had often sufficed for the kings
of Scotland. His princess, Margaret Douglas,
daughter of Archibald Duke of Touraine, according
to Father Hay, in his ?Genealogie of the
Sainte Claires of Rosslyn,? was waited upon by
? seventy-five gentlewomen, whereof fifty-three
were daughters of noblemen, all cloathed in velvets
and silks, with their chains of gold and other pertinents
; together with two hundred riding gentlemen,
who accompanied her in all her journeys.
She had carried before her, when she went to
Edinburgh, if it were darke, eighty lighted torches.
Her lodging was at the foot of Blackfryer Wynde ;
so that in a word, none matched her in all the
country, save the Queen?s Majesty.?? Father
Hay tells us, too, that Earl William ?kept a great
court, and was royally served at his own table in
vessels of gold and silver : Lord Dirleton being his
master of the household, Lord Borthwick his cup
bearer, and Lord Fleming his carver, in whose
absence they had deputies, viz., Stewart, Laird of
Drumlanng ; Tweedie, Laird of Drumrnelzier; and
Sandilands, Laird of Calder. He had his halls
and other apartments richly adorned with embroidered
hangings.?
At the south-west end of the Wynd, and abutting
on the Cowgate, where its high octagon turret,
on six rows of corbels springing from a stone
shaft, was for ages a prominent feature, stood
the archiepiscopal palace, deemed in its time
one of the most palatial edifices of old Edinburgh.
It formed two sides of a quadrangle, with aporfe
rochlre that gave access to a court behind, and was
built by James Bethune, who was Archbishop of
Glasgow (1508-1524), Lord Chancellor of Scotland
in I 5 I 2, and one of the Lords Regent, under
the Duke of Albany, during the stormy minority of
James V. Pitscottie distinctlyrefers to it as the
xrchbishop?s house, ?? quhilk he biggit in the Freiris
Wynd,? and Keith records that over the door of it
were the arms of the family of Bethune, to be seen
in his time. But they had disappeared long before
the demolition of the house, the ancient risp of which
was sold among the collection of the late C. Kirkpatrick
Sharpe, in 1851. Another from the same
house is in the museum of the Scottish Antiquaries
The stone bearing the coat of arms was also in his
possession, and it is thus referred to by &bet in ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street other services, Charles Philip Count d?artois, brother of the ill-fated ...

Book 2  p. 262
(Score 0.18)

  Previous Page Previous Results   Next Page More Results

  Back Go back to Edinburgh Bookshelf

Creative Commons License The scans of Edinburgh Bookshelf are licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 2.5 License.